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JOURNAL 



OE A 



Tour Through Great Britain 



AND 



ON THE CONTINENT. 



BY 
V 



^ w 



" Travel in the younger sort, is a part of education ; in the elder, a part of experience."— iori Bcuxm. 

" That a man may better himself by travel, he ought to observe and comment: noting as well the bad 
' avoid it, as tating the good into use."— Owen FetUham. 



NEW YORK: 

SHELDON & CO., 498 & 500 BROADWAY 

1868. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year of our Lord, 1868, by 

J. HENRY COGHILL, 

in the Clerk's ofilce of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District 
of New York. 



A 



MY BROTHER, 

WILLIAM NEWTON COGHILL, 

AS 

gi CesttmottiHl 

OF 

MY GRATITUDE FOR THE VERY TENDER REGARD 

HE HAS ALWAYS MANIFESTED 

FOR MY WELFARE, 

THIS JOUKNAL 

X» Affectionately JieUicateli. 



PREFACE. 



Tms journal of a Tour through the British Isles and 
on the Continent was commenced without any view 
to publication. At the close of each day, the im- 
pressions made by the places visited were jotted 
down. I availed myself of every source of information, 
printed and unwritten. I lay claim to no originality, 
but present a plain and accurate description of what I 
have seen, not unfrequently using the identical lan- 
guage of others, when it seemed appropriate, without 
giving credit, or even quotation marks, which would 
have been done had I supposed, at the time, that the 
journal would ever have been printed. 

To myself and family it will recall pleasant memo- 
ries and dehghtful associations; and, while it is in- 
tended for private rather than public circulation, it 
will be found a true guide-book to an European tour, 
marking out a most interesting route, as weU as the 
daily excursions and places to visit at all of the prin- 

1* 



vi PREFACE. 

cipal points, and will otherwise aid those who are 

seeking instruction and pleasure by travelling abroad. 

The Journal will, I hope, be of special service to 

those of my friends who wish to know what are the 

usual daily occurrences in the life of a family during 

such a tour. 

I desire gratefully to recognize the kind providence 

of God, that guarded my family and myself during our 

wanderings, and returned us in safety to our native 

land. 

J. H. C. 

New York, Janvxiry, 1868. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



August 1866 : Page 

AtSea 2 

Queenstown and Cork 3 

Killarney 4 

Tour'of the Lakes 4-7 

Muckross Abbey 8 

Tore Cascade and Innisfallen 9 

Dublin 11-13 

Belfast and Portrush 13 

Giants' Causeway. 13 

Dunluce Castle 14 

Belfast again , 14 

Glasgow 15 

On the Clyde 16 

Crinan Canal 17 

Bannavie 18 

Oban 18 

Inverlocky Castle 19 



Glasgow again 20 

Loch Lomond 21 

Loch Katrme 22 

Coilantogle 23 

Stirling 23 

Castle of Doune 25 

Edinburgh 26 

Scott's Monument 26 

National Gallery 26 

Holyrood 27 

Tolbooth and the Castle 29 

Hawthornden 30 

Roslin Castle and Chapel 30 

Dryburgh Abbey 34 

Melrose Abbey 34 

Abbotsford 35 

Penryth 38 

York.... 39 

York Minster 39 

St.Mary's Abbey 39 

Fountains Abbey 42 



Page 

Lines, '• There is no God ! " etc 44 

Harrowgate 45 

Chatsworth 45 

Leamington 47 

Stratford-on- Avon 47 

Kenilworth Castle 48 

Guy's Cliff, 51 

Warwick Castle 51 

Oxford 54 

Colleges 55 

London 55 

Spurgeon 56 

October : 

"Westminster Abbey 57 

St. Paul's Cathedral 58 

National Gallery, 59 

British Museum 59 

Tussaud's Gallery 60 

Crystal Palace 60 

Houses of Parliament 61 

Spurgeon again 62 

The Parks 62 

Hampton Court 62 

Windsor Castle 63 

St. George's Chapel 65 

Botanical Gardens 66 

Rev. B. W.Noel 66 

Paris, via Dover and Calais 67 

Champs Elysees 68 

Louvre 68 

Bois de Boulogne 69 

Palais du Luxembourg. 70 

Notre Dame 70 

Hotel de Cluny 71 

November: 

Madeleine 72 

Corps Legislatif 72 

P6re la Chaise.. 72 



VIU 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Jardin des Plantes 73 

Review in Bo is de Boulogne 73 

Sainte Chapelle 73 

Vincennes 74 

Dr. Nelaton 74 

Hotel de Villa 74 

Versailles 75 

Hotel des Invalides 76 

Dijon 76 

December : 

Lyons 77 

Marseilles 77 

Nice 78 

" Cornice " Road 79 

Genoa 1 80 

Churclies. 82 

Doria Palace 83 

Palace Palavacini 84 

A collision at sea 84 

A storm on the Gulf 85 

Leghorn 85 

Pisa 86 

Florence 87 

Pitti Palace Gallery 88 

January, 1867 : 

Villa Victoria 89 

Cathedral 89 

Uffizi Gallery 90 

Rome 92 

St. Peter's 92 

Vatican 94 

The Forum Romanum 95 

Mamertine Prison 96 

Coliseum 97 

St. Paul's Church beyond the "Walls. 98 

Capitoline Museum 99 

Vatican revisited. . .-. 99 

Borghese and Corsini Palaces 100 

Churches , . . . 101 

Palace Colonna 102 

Church of the Cappucini 103 

Other Churches 104 

Lateran 105 

Baptistery 107 

Scala Santa..,. 107 

Lateran Museum 108 

Doria Pamfili Palace 108 

Other Churches and Palaces 109 

Baths of Caracalla 11^ 



PAGE 

Appian Way Ill 

Catacomb of St. Cahxtus Ill 

Campagna 112 

Cupola of St. Peter's 113 

Via Latina 113 

Basilica of St. Stephen 114 

Vatican revisited. 114 

February : 

The Dying Gladiator 116 

The Pope's Blessing 116 

A Fox Hunt 117 

Good Shepard by Murillo 118 

Naples 119 

Church of Gesii Nuovo , 120 

Cathedral 120 

Riviere de Chiaja 121 

Palazzo Reale 122 

Campo Santo 122 

Musio Nazionale 122 

Grotto di Posilipo 124 

Pozzuoli 124 

Herculanium 126 

Lake of Avernus. 127 

Cumse and Baise 128 

Howie's Picture of a Lamb 129 

Virgil's Tomb 129 

Mount Vesuvius 130 

Solfatara 131 

March : 

Pompeii. 132 

Sorrento 139 

Deserto Monastery 140 

Salerno 142 

Amalfl 143 

Cava 145 

Excursion to the Monastery 145 

Return to Naples 146 

Pompeii Revisited 146 

Excursion to the Hermitage 147 

Return to Rome 148 

Pincian Hill 149 

Lines, "A Welcome, Friends," etc. 151 

Political Thoughts 152 

April : 

Borghese Villa 154 

St. Peter's again 155 

An Illumination 156 

At the American Chapel 157 



CONTENTS. 



IX 



Page 

The Pope's Reception 158 

The Miserere at the Sistine Chapel.. 159 

The Washing of Feet 159 

Illumination of the Coliseum 161 

Sounding of the Silver Trumpets. . . 161 

Illumination of St. Peter's 162 

Studios Visited 163 

Lateran again 164 

The Legend of the Cross 165 

S. Maria Maggiore again 165 

Villa Doria Pamfili 165 

May: 

Castle St. Angelo 167 

Drive to Albano 168 

The New Viaduct 169 

A Drive in the Vicinity 170 

Return to Rome 170 

The Falls of Terni 173 

Florence Revisited 174 

Perugia and Perugino 175 

Villa Victoria again 176 

Florence Described 178 

Bologna 180 

Accademia deUe BeUe Arte 181 

The University 182 

Parma ;.. 183 

June : 

The Cathedral of Parma 185 

Accademia delle Belle Arte 186 

The Works of Correggio 187 

Milan 187 

The Brera , 188 

The Cathedral 189 

The Ambrosean Library 190 

The Piazza d'Arme 191 

The Last Supper, by L. da Vinci. . . 192 

The History of Milan 193 

Lago di Como 194 

Lago Lugano 197 

Lago Maggiore 198 

Isola Bella 198 

Poetry, "The Enchanted Isle" 200 

Novara 201 

Return to Milan - 201 

Venice 202 

St. Mark's 203 

Ducal Palace 204 

Bridge of Sighs 204 



Page 

Howie and the Pigeons 205 

Ponte Rialto 207 

Churches visited 207 

Island of Murano 209 

Gondolas 210 

A Lady's Description of Venice. . . . 211 

Verona 219 

The Amphitheatre 220 

Towns on the banks of the Adige. . 222 

Over the Brenner Pass 222 

Hofer, the Tyrolese Hero 223 

Innsbruck 225 

Statues of the Hof kirche 226 

Munich 228 

Pinacothek 228 

Royal Brewery 230 

Glyptothek 231 

RoyalPalace 231 

Statue of Bavaria 234 

Amusing table-talk 235 

Salzburg 235 

The Waterworks of Helbrunn 236 

Vienna 237 

July: 

Cathedral of Vienna 238 

The Prater 239 

A Down-east Yankee 239 

Schonbrimn 239 

Imperial Library 240 

Prague 243 

Dresden 245 

Dresden Gallery 246 

Madonna di San Sisto 247 

The Green Vault 249 

Berlm 252 

The Sculpture and Picture Galleries. 252 

Potsdam 254 

Hanover 258 

Amsterdam 259 

E^xcursion to Broek 259 

Dutch and Flemish Pictures 260 

The Hague 261 

Palace in the Woods 262 

Rotterdam 263 

Antwerp 264 

Cathedral 264 

Rubens' Paintings 265 

Brussels 266 

Queer Americans Abroad 267 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Cologne 269 

Bonn 269 

Up the Rhine 270 

Wiesbaden , 270 

Frankfort 272 

AlTGUST : 

Heidelburg 273 

The Castle 274 

Baden-Baden ..... . 275 

The Old Castle 277 

The Black Forest 279 

Strasburg 280 

Basle 280 

Zurich 281 

Lucerne 281 

William Tell 282 

Brunig Pass 283 

Giessbach Falls 284 

Interlachen 285 

Lauterbrunnen 285 

Grindelwald 285 

The Alps 286 

Howie's Prayer 287 

The Bernese Alps 288 

Berne 288 

Lake Thun 288 

Fribourg 289 

Lausanne 290 

Vevay 290 



Page 

Chexbres 291 

Lake of Geneva 290 

Castle of Chillon 291 

Lines on Howie's Birthday 292 

Geneva 293 

■EMBER : 

Chamounix. 295 

Mont Blanc 296 

Aiguilles 297 

Glaciers 298 

Moraines 299 

Parsees 300 

Climbers — ^Their Ways and Perils. . 300 

Return to Geneva ■. 302 

Geneva Watches 303 

Garibaldi 303 

Lyons. 304 

Vichy 304 

Cusset 305 

From OcroBEK 4th to November 6tr : 

Paris Revisited 307 

Review in the Bois de Boulogne 308 

Farewell to Paris 310 

Havre 311 

Homeward Bound 311 

AGale 311 

The Passengers and the Passage 312 

Debarkation 312 



EERATA 



Page 16, line 25, and p. 18, 1. 26, for Bennavie read Bannavie. 

" 23, " 32, for in Coitantogle's read is Coilantogle's. 

" 25, " 7, for Benledei read Benledi. 

" " " 8, for Benvanue and Benan read Benvenue and Ben A'an. 

" 30, " 4 and 27, p. 31, 1. 14, p. 33, Is. 16 and 22, and p. 36, I. 20, for Roslyn 

read Roslin or Rosslyn. 

" " " 4, /or Abbey reaci Chapel. 

" 32, " 34, /or Prentices' recK? Prentice's, 

" 39, " 34, OTOiZ They were (with period). 

" 40, " 30, for one hundred and eighty read two hundred and forty -seven 

" 46, " 13, /or Peter recK? Thomas. 

*' « " 30, /or in recM^ through. 

" «' " 33, a/ter gardener in^^erf afterwards. 

" 49, " 9, /or Elenor read Eleanor. 

" 55, " 30, rnnit St, 

" 67, " 25 and 29, p. 78, 1. 8, and p. 119, 1. 8, /or Grande read Grand. 

" 73, " 9, /or Royale read Royal. 

*' 75, " 20, for Abdar Kedar read Abdel Kader. 

" 79, " 34, for Montone read Mentone. 

" 83, "■ 8, /or Scogeitto read Scoglietto, 

*♦ " " 20, and p, 84,1. 1, /or Pallavacino read Pallavacini. 

" 92, " 13, a/fer kept mser^n the. 

" 101, " 11, and p. 120, 1, 1, /or Jesii read Gesu. 

" 104, " 3, for del read degli, 

" 105, " 7, /or Borghe read Borghese. 

" " " 27, omif one s in Aureliuss. 

" 106, " 27,/or or read in. 

** 107, " 28, /or Sancta read Santa. 

*' 110, " 35,/orcontam read contained. 

" 111, " 17, for remain read remains. 

(( it u 26, /or Curatii read Cur iatii, 

" 113, " 3, for Hosier read Mozier. 

" " " 26, /or Pinico read Pincian. 

" 114, " 4, om^f one of them. 

" " "34, after Madonna, read di. 

" 116, <' 23, /or Barbareni read Barbereni, 

<' 118, " 11, omit a,. 

" " "15, for Sciarri read Sciarra, 

" " " 21,/or of read at, 

" " " 37, /or Child read Childe. 

'♦ 121, '< 2, /or alotted read allotted. 

" 122, « 32, /or Russe read Russie. 

" 125, " 13, /or Hanibal 7'ead Haunibal. 

" 140, " 11, far feet read ankle, 

" 172, " 18,/or Wards worth read Wordsworth. 

" 178, " 21, mserf streets a/fer other. 

" 179, " 11, /or Callini read Cellini. 

" " " 12, /or Donatillo read Donatello. 

" 181, '' 29, /or Saint Ufflzi read Santo Offlcio. 

" 196, <' 8, /or du read di, 

" 202, " 14, /or Atilla read Attila. 

" 211, " 1, /or in read near. 

" 219, <' 9, /or vale read valet. 

" 289, " 17, /or Freiburg read Fribourg 



JOURNAL 



AUGUST. 

8^^, 1866. — My family and I embarked for Europe on the 
steamer Scotia, hoping that a sea voyage and change of cli- 
mate would improve the healtli of my wife, which had not been 
good, and also that of our Howie, a weak, sensitive and in- 
telligent little fellow, so delicate as to call forth our constant 
care and anxiety. Then, too, as my daughter had just completed 
her course of study, the time seemed to have arrived Avhen we 
could make the tour of Europe with much pleasure and profit to 
us all. The day was pleasant. August is considered a good 
month in which to cross the ocean, and as Mr. Cunard, the agent 
of the line, was a passenger with us, we had good reason to hope 
for a quick and pleasant voyage. Having secured our state- 
rooms some three months in advance, we. had the first choice, and 
were as comfortably lixt d as we could be at sea. At about two 
o'clock the tender separated from us, our whistle blew the signal, 
and in a few moments the wheels commenced their revolutions, 
and New York receded from our view. We were soon outside of 
Sandy Hook. On our right, Long Branch, with its crowds of 
visitors, was in full view ; on our left could be seen the villages 
and residences scattered over Long Island. Standing on the 
quarter-deck and looking in that direction, I caught a view of 
Rockaway in the " dim distance." Rock Hall, the meadows, and 
snipe-shooting came up vividly before my imagination, and, from 
the force of habit, I found myself looking toward the east, and 
straining my eyes in search of a bunch of "yellow shanks," or a 



'I JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

stray "maiiin" or "plover," and could almost imagine that I 
caught a view of their outlines, and heard the familiar whistle of 
'' Mitch y calling them in. 

I was soon reminded that the undulations of the sea, however 
gentle and uniform, are not friendly to reveries ; at least to those 
of a landsman only a few hours out. Being unwilling at that 
time to engage in an unequal contest with one whose power I had 
felt on many former occasions, I retired quietly to my state-room. 
The weather was cool, and my old enemy, the sea, only a little 
ruffled, so I managed to keep on good terms with him, apparently, 
at least, for the balance of the evening. 

'dth. — As if it were not enough to be floating on " liquid om- 
nipotence," the clouds opened their flood-gates and deluged our 
decks, making them so wet and slippery as to be dangerous to 
tread. The wind blew fresh, causing a heavy swell, which kept 
many of the passengers in their rooms, among whom were May 
and Sade ; little Howie and I, proving better sailors, kept up. 

\Oth. — Wind north-east, with quite a sea on ; weather drizzly, 
dripping and cheerless. Sade ventured on deck, but remained 
only a short time. May remained in her state-room all day 

11 M. — A bright and charming day; the more enjoyable from 
the contrast with yesterday. , During the day we saw a steamer 
and five ships. Passed Cape Race at 6 o'clock p. m. 

12th. — Quite a rough sea during the night and a part of the 
day; weather foggy and uncomfortably cool; passengers looked 
gloomy and disconsolate. May laid in bed all day. Sade was 
out on deck in the afternoon, but remained only a short time. 
Passed the Banks of Newfoundland during the night. 

-3i(/^ — Another disagreeable day; a cold east wind, and rough 
sea. May and Sade came on deck, but soon discovered that it 
was more convenient to be in their rooms, and retired to them. 
During the day we passed very near to the steamer City of Dublin, 
bound to New York 

14^A.—- Another "dark day," most of which was spent in my 
state-room. Wind fresh from the east, and rainy. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 3 

15th. — This morning a duplicate of yesterday, except the 
wind, which came from the south. Passed the Persia, bound 
for New York, at 3 o'clock p. m. May and Sade on deck. 
Evening foggy. At 10 o'clock p. m. we came very near runnino* 
into a small vessel. 

IQth. — Sunshine again Saw a sail at 7 a. m. May and Sade, 
becoming more courageous, spent some time on deck. Howie 
amused himself with playing "shuffle-board," a game in which he 
has joined every pleasant day, and has enjoyed it much. Night 
stormy and rough. 

17th. — A beautifully bright morning. The welcome cry of 
" land, ho" brought me out earlier than usual. The hills of the 
"Green Isle" loomed up before us. We made Cape Clear at 
7 o'clock, and at 121 p. m. disembarked on a tug outside the 
harbor of Queenstown, at which place we landed at IJ o'clock. 
The views being fine, the sail into the harbor was pleasant. We 
saw on one of the hills, on the grounds belonging to a villa, a 
perfect house in shape, with its chimneys, windows and doors, 
formed by the foliage of trees, which was no less curious than 
beautiful. We dined at the Queen's Hotel, and left at 4 o'clock 
for Cork, by rail, arriving in a short time — the distance being 
only six miles. Queenstown was formerly called the " Cove of 
Cork," but the name was changed in 1849, in honor of the 
Queen's landing there. It is said to be the finest harbor in the 
world, and is admirably defended. The scenery by which it is 
surrounded is beautiful. 

18th. — We stopped at the Imperial Hotel, where we had fine 
accommodations. The morning was, much to our regret, too 
unpleasant to go out, and we had to leave without seeing much 
of the city. Cork dates its origin in the ninth century. Its 
population is about 80,000, showing no increase in twenty years. 
It was in this city that William Penn became a convert to 
Quakerism, while he was ,here attending to business relating to 
his father's estate. Some of the streets are wide, and very pret- 
tily built up. We left at 11:40 a. m., by rail, for the Lakes of 



4 JOUENAL OF A TOTJE THROUGH 

Killarney, but left without going out to Blarney Castle, or 
kissing the blarney-stone. 

We had to wait an hour at the junction of Mallow, for a con- 
necting train. On its arrival, we proceeded to Killarney, which 
we reached at 3 o'clock p. m. We stopped at the Royal Victoria 
Hotel, beautifully situated on the border of the lower lake. Here 
we had a magnificent view. The lake spread out before us like a 
sheet of burnished silver, with green foliage kissing its clear water 
in some places ; in others, the cultivated fields and lawns extended 
like rich carpets to its very edge ; further off, and in the distance, 
the mountains rose up and threw their shadows over the whole, 
forming a picture at once grand and beautiful, and upon which 
memory will often turn and linger, like the ripples upon its 
clear waters, when the winds have swept over them and passed 
away. 

19th, Sunday. — In the morning we attended the Church of 
England, in the village, and heard a very good sermon, from 
John V : 39. The church was plain and old-fashioned, with 
enclosed pews, some of which had seats on all sides, and would 
accommodate ten or twelve persons. Went to the Wesleyan 
Chapel in the evening. The services commenced at the unusual 
hour of 7 o'clock, and continued until it was too dark to read. 
The congregation consisted of sixteen. Sermon not interesting. 

20th. — Having made arrangements for the tour of the lakes, 
we left by carriage at 10 o'clock, for the Gap of Dunloe, through 
which we had to pass on ponies, to the head of the upper lake. 
Here a boat awaited us. On a hill to the right of the road 
are seen the ruins of Aghadoe. They consist of the remains 
of a castle, round tower, and cathedral. A mile or two fur- 
ther on, we came to the ruined church of Killalee, not far from 
which is Aghadoe House (Lord Hedley's). A short distance be- 
yond this is Dunloe Castle, once the stronghold of the O'SuUi- 
vans, and now the residence of Mr. D. Mahony. And near 
it is a neat little cottage, at the door of which stood a very ordi^ 
nary-looking female. As we rode past, she came out, and, with a 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 5 

very patronizing air, asked if we would not buy a drink of moun- 
tain dew from a grand-daughter of Kate Kearney. I learned 
from our guide that "mountain dew" wasa decoction of whiskey 
and goat's milk, indigenous, I suppose, to that locality, and that 
the neat little cottage had been built from the profits realized 
from the sale of this beverage. The beauty of the family must 
have greatly deteriorated, and we were glad to follow the poet's 
advice, and shun, not only "the glance of her eye," but also her 
importunities to "take just a drop of her mountain dew.'* Op- 
posite this cottage stands the old mud and stone house in which 
Killamey's far-famed belle was born and lived. A very short 
distance beyond, the carriage road ends ; ponies awaited us, and 
we mounted for the four miles' ride through the pass or gap. We 
all enjoyed the ride, and none more than little Howie, who rode 
the entire distance alone. The gap is a narrow and gloomy defile 
which divides McGilli cuddy's Reeks and the Tomies and Purple 
Mountains. A small stream called the Roe, traverses the whole 
distance of the gap, expending itself in several small lakes. A 
fine horse road has been made through this chasm, so that one 
can ride over without inconvenience ; but the immense masses of 
rocks, projecting over the road, some two thousand feet above, and 
looking as if the slightest thing would start them, make one shud- 
der as he passes under, and breathe more freely as he emerges 
from the chasm. From some points in the pass the echoes are 
very fine. Our guide, who was also a bugler, gave us the benefit 
of his skill, which we enjoyed much. Several small cannons 
were fired ofi", and the effect was startling. The reverberations 
burst upon us like the report of parks of artillery discharged all 
around, or like the thunder of Byron's " Storm of the Alps," 
where, 

"Far along, 
From peak to xoeak the rattling craigs among 
Leaps the live thunder : not from one lone clcad, 

But every mountain now hath found a tongue, 
And Jura answers from her misty shroud 
Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud." • 



b JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

Proceeding on a little further, we heard music from the violin, 
and singing. It seemed quite a distance off, upon the top of the 
mountain, but on turning a point a few rods ahead, we came 
suddenly upon the "blind fiddler," and discovered that the sounds 
we had heard were only the echoes of the original. 

Emerging from the pass, we came in sight of the Black Valley, 
a gloomy-looking amphitheatre, with its rugged masses of black 
rocks, looking as if they had been hurled there by some terrible 
convulsion of nature, relieved only by a stream meandering 
through it. Following the road around the mountain, we soon 
reached the gateway leading to Lord Brandon's cottage, at the 
head of the lake, where we dismounted. Horses are not allowed 
to enter, and we walked to the landing. There we found our 
boat awaiting us. It was a fine one, and manned by the " four 
McCarthys," said to be the best oarsmen on the lake — the same 
who rowed Queen Victoria, when she made the tour some years 
ago, as one of them informed us. He showed his loyalty, or rather 
his want of it, by saying that he had rowed many a better per- 
son. We embarked, and proceeding a short distance down, landed 
at a beautiful island ; ascended to its summit, and partook of a 
bountiful lunch which had been prepared for us at the hotel. 
After finishing, we embarked again, and proceeded down the 
lakes, enjoying the splendid scenery, as well as the singing of our 
boatmen. It was a scene such as I had never looked upon be- 
fore. Around us was the lake, smooth as glass, and rich with all 
the hues of the clouds and sky above ; the towering mountains 
and beautiful foliage which ran down to its shores ; the fairy- 
like islands all around — " as earth, water and sky mingle their 
different tones; while their varieties, as from the notes of a 
rich, full chord, rose one grand harmony, telling the glories of 
God." We were all entranced — the whole was like a dream in 
fairy land. The beauty and wild sublimity which we beheld, 
seemed to belong to another and, a more beautiful world, and to 
lead us almost into the presence of God. A sense of my own 
nothingness came over me, and I felt ^' what is man, that thou 



GREAT BRITAIN AlU) ON THE CONTINENT. 7 

art mindful of him, or the son of man, that thou visitest 
him 1" The upper lake, though not so large, is considered the 
most beautiful, being studded with islands, covered with rich 
foliage, running down to their edges. Far above the lake tower 
the bold and grand old mountains, like sentinels guarding the 
enchanting spot. This lake is two and a half miles long, and is 
connected with the middle or Tore Lake by a narrow channel 
about five miles in length, called "Long Eange." Near the 
lower end is an almost perpendicular cliff, one thousand feet 
high, called the Eagle's Nest. This point is remarkable for its 
extraordinary echoes, which reverberate from peak to peak in 
regular course. Our bugler, to make it more effective, landed and 
went a short distance below us, and played a number of airs. 
We could fully realize the truthfulness, as well as the exquisite 
beauty of Moore's allusion to them, in one of his Irish melodies, 
entitled " 'Twas One of Those Dreams," written during a visit to 
Lord Kenmare, at Killarney : 

*' The wild notes he heard o'er the water were those 
He had taught to sing Erin's dark bondage and woes, 
And the breath of the bugle now wafted them o'er 
From Dinis' green isle, to Glena's wooded shore. 

* ' He listen'd — while, high o'er the eagle's rude nest 
The lingering sounds on their way loved to rest ; 
And the echoes sung back from their full mountain choir, 
As if loth to let song so enchanting expire. 

• ♦ It seem'd as if ev'ry sweet note that died here 
Was again brought to life in some airier sphere. 
Some heav'n in those hills, where the soul of the strain 
That had ceased upon earth was awaking again. " 

About a mile further down we came to the old weir bridge, a 
very antique structure, with two arches, through which the boat 
is carried with fearful rapidity over the rapids. None but skilful 
oarsmen can take a boat through when the water is high. One 
coming down just behind us was upset, and a lady was saved 
from being drowned by the crew of another boat near-by. 



8 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

Just" below this bridge is a sequestered spot called "the meeting 
of the waters," said to have been greatly admired by Sir Walter 
Scott during his visit to the lakes. There is nothing particu- 
larly striking about the middle lake, although it is very beauti- 
ful, and one leaves it with regret. It is divided from the lower 
one by the islands of Dinish and Breckeen, and connected 
with it by three narrow channels. The shores are beautifully 
wooded. The lower lake is five miles in length, and three in 
its greatest breadth, and contains thirty islands. It is much 
admired for the softness of its scenery, the contrast being very 
great between it and the upper one. We landed at Lady Castle- 
rosse's cottage, a picturesque place on Glena bay, and went 
through the grounds, which are tastefully laid out. Sade gathered 
some flowers, among which was a sprig of shamrock. These 
will form a part of the first page of her herbarium. We again 
entered our boat, and were soon at the lower end of the lake, a 
little fatigued, but delighted with our day's excursion. 

21st, — Visited the ruins of Muckross Abbey, founded in 1440, 
in company with Mr. and Mrs. R., of Chicago, who were fellow- 
passengers in the Scotia. These ruins are interesting, and the 
grounds pretty, and kept in excellent order by the Hon, Mr. 
Herbert, M. P., on whose estate they are. In the centre of the 
courtyard, surrounded by the cloisters, is an immense yew tree of 
great age, said to measure twelve feet in circumference. In the 
church are the tombs of many persons of distinction ; and the 
church-yard is also filled with tombstones, many of which have 
quaint and curious epitaphs. 

•' We wandered here among the dead. 
Where green leaves wave above them, 
And night and morn bright dew-drops shed. 
Like tears of those that loved them. 

" They sleep their rest so calm and deep, 
They know no feverish waking ; 
The lovely, holy dead may sleep 

While life's strong heart is breaking. " 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 9 

From here we drove on to the Tore cascade, passing the beauti- 
ful residence of Mr. Herbert. The cascade is picturesque, and the 
scenery striking. Sade and I ascended the mountain, from 
which the view was fine. On our return we stopped at a fair, 
which was being held on Lord Castlerosse's grounds, for the benefit 
of the Franciscan friars. The grounds were laid out with the most 
exquisite taste, and were beautiful. The company, composed of 
what are here called the gentlemen and ladies, and the peasantry, 
was large. Flags were flying, music playing, and every one seemed 
joyous and happy. There was one very pleasing feature in the enter- 
tainment. Lady Castlerosse, it appears, occupies a part of each 
summer in teaching the children in the village. These children 
sang several pieces in a manner that would have done credit to 
much older persons, showing that the musical part of their education 
at least had not been neglected. I s])ent a small sum at the table 
of the Viscountess of Lothian, who was affable and pleasant in her 
conversation. We then drove to the ruins of Ross Castle, 
situated on Ross Island, and reached by a bridge. Only a small 
part of this once formidable castle is left. It was erected in the 
fourteenth century by one of the O'Donoghues, whose successors 
resided in it for nearly three centuries. This was the last strong- 
hold in Munster that surrendered to Cromwell, being given up to 
Gen. Ludlow by Lord Muskerry in 1652. After our return, Sade, 
Howie, and myself were rowed over to Innisfallen, a most pic- 
turesque little island, and too beautiful ever to be forgotten. On 
it are the ruins of an abbey, founded A. D. 600, by St Fenian, 
with the remains of an old oratory. It was here that the "Annals 
of Innisfallen " were written by three monks, in which they pro- 
fess to give a history of the world from the creation to the time of 
St. Fenian, and thence down to the period in vdiich it was written. 
There are only one or two copies of this curious work extant, 
which are in some of the public libraries. Moore was enrap- 
tured with this island, and sang its praises in the following 
beautiful verses : 

1* 



10 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

" Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 

May calm and sunshine long be thine ; 
How fair thou art let others tell — 
To feel how fair shall long be mine. 

" Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 

In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
"When first I saw thy fairy isle. 

•' 'Twas light, indeed, too blest for one 
Who had to turn to paths of care — 
Through crowded haunts again to run — 
And leave thee bright and silent there ; 

♦' No more unto thy shores to come. 

But, on the world's rude ocean toss'd, 
Dream of thee sometimes, as a home 
Of sunshine he had seen and lost. 

*' Far better in thy weeping hours, 
To part from thee, as I do now. 
When mist is o'er thy blooming bowers, 
Like sorrow's veil on beauty's brow. 

•* For though unrivall'd still thy grace. 
Thou dost not look a thing too blest. 
But, thus in shadow, seems a place 
Where erring man might hope to rest. 

" Might hope to rest and find in thee 
A gloom like Eden's, on the day 
He left its shade, when every tree. 

Like thine, hnng weeping o'er his way. 

" Weeping or smiling, lovely isle. 
And all the lovelier for thy tears. 
For though but rare thy sunny smile, 
'Tis heav'n's own glance when it appears. 

*' Like feeling hearts, whose joys are few, 
But, when indeed they come, divine ; 
The brighest light the sun e'er threw 
Is lifeless to one glance of thine." 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 11 

The town of Killarney is about a mile from the lakes, and is 
anything but prepossessing in its appearance. It has a population 
of about 7,000. 

22d. — At lOJ A. M. we bid a reluctant adieu to this enchantinty 
spot, the brightest gem in the " Green Isle of the Ocean," took our 
seats in the stage, and were soon at the station and in the cars, 
rattling along toward Dublin, at which place we arrived at 5h 
p. M. We stopped at the " Gresham House," with which we 
were well pleased. The cars are divided into compartments with 
seats for eight persons, and are nicely fitted up, and far more 
comfortable than those in America.* We enjoyed our long ride, 
and were less fatigued than we expected to have been. We 
passed a number of towns, and saw all along the route the huts 
of the peasantry, in which men, women, children, pigs, and 
chickens seemed to live together on the most familiar terms. We 
saw comparatively few comfortable-looking farm houses, and the 
impression left upon my mind was, that in this part of the island 
the tillers of the soil are very poor. 

23d. — After partaking of a good breakfast we started out to " do " 
Dublin, and drove first to the Bank of Ireland, formerly the Par- 
liament House. The House of Lords remains in its orio-inal 
condition, with the same furniture as used when occupied by the 
Government. This is all that is worth seeing here. As we came 
out a procession was passing in honor of the arrivaL from Eng- 
land of the newly-appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. We 
had a good view of his lordship as he rode by on horseback, with 

* I am far from approving anything merely because it is foreign ; biit I 
prefer foreign rail-cars because they are not only more comfortable, but 
more safe. They have no platforms. Figures prove that more lives are 
lost on our American roads by these man-traps than by all other causes. 
A late president of the New York and New Haven Railroad, Hon. E. C. 
Scranton, was cut in two by attempting to jump upon the platform of 
a car while it was in motion. As lives thus sacrificed never cost rail- 
road corporations any money, we cajinot hope for a reform in this matter 
until the voice of humanity shall be heard and prevail in our legislative 
halls. 



12 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

his head uncovered. The Lord Mayor and family in a carriage of 
state, and the family of the Lord Lieutenant formed a part of the 
procession. The carriage and trimmings, and livery seemed odd 
enough to us, and as they passed little Howie exclaimed, Shoddy ! 
After the procession had gone by we drove to the Cathedral of 
the Holy Trinity, a comparatively modern building on the site of 
one erected in 1088. In it are many monuments of a very old 
date ; some of these are rudely executed. There is nothing par- 
ticularly attractive about the interior of the church. Our next 
visit was to St. Patrick's Cathedral, dating from 1190. It has 
recently been enlarged and restored in a magnificent manner by 
Mr. Gruinness, M. P., a brewer, of Dublin, at a cost of i^l 50,000. 
I do not know its dimensions, but it is very large. In the church 
is a tablet to the memory of the Duke of Schomberg, and in the 
choir are the banners of the Knights of St. Patrick, It also con- 
tains the tombs of Swift ^ and Hester Johnston, the " Stella " of 
his poetry. 

We next visited the Exchatige, and saw the statues of Grrattan, 
by Chantry, and Daniel O' Connell, by Hogan. We then drove 
to and through the Park, which is a very ordinary affair, and 
returned, feeling that our drive was time lost. We next went 
through the Vice-Regal Palace of the Lord Lieutenant, a very 
large, but plainly finished and furnished establishment. The 
ceiling of the ball-room is painted with historical pictures. 
The chapel belonging to the palace, and within the enclosure, is 
a Gothic structure ; the windows are of stained glass, on which 
are the arms of the different Lords Lieutenant, and they are very 
attractive. After leaving the palace we drove through some 
of the fashionable streets, and found the residences hand- 
some. Our impressions of Dublin were very favorable. It is, 
outwardly at least, a very attractive city. Its population is about 
250,000. The waiter who attended on us, having inquired if I 
was a connection of Sir Jocelyn Coghill, living at Bel videre House, 
near Dublin, 1 had a curiosity, as the name was not a common 
one, to look in the County and Borough Directory, and there 



GPvEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 13 

found the name of Sir John Jocelyn Coghill, Baron, Belvidere 
House (and Skibbereen, in the County of Cork). 1 learned that 
Sir J. was a very clever and popular gentleman, respected by 
all who knew him, and for this, rather than for liis title, I would 
have been pleased to have made his acquaintance. 

24:th. — Having finished Dublin in one day, in which, of course, 
wa became well acquainted with the place, and manners 9,nd 
customs of the people — enough so, at least, to write a book on it — 
we left at 8i o'clock a. m. for Belfast, and arrived at about 1 p. m. 
We drove to the Imperial Hotel, where we dined ; left our trunks, 
and proceeded on the same afternoon to Portrush, We stopped 
at the " Antrim Arms" Hotel, a very fine house, but so crowded 
that we had to occupy very poor rooms. We noticed a marked 
difference between the country we passed over to-day and that 
between Killarney and Dublin. The former being under a high 
state of cultivation, and everything bearing the appearance of 
thrift and prosperity. At times we were troubled with a very un- 
pleasant odor, which was so offensive as to make some of us 
sick, and, upon inquiring, learned that it arose from the flax 
which was undergoing some treatment to prepare it for use, 

25M. — Breakfasted at 7-|- a. m., and started for the Giant's 
Causeway, about seven miles distant. The morning was cloudy, 
with a high wind and light showers — altogether an unpropitious 
morning for our excursion. Passing Dunluce Castle and Bush 
Mills, we proceeded directly on to this wonder of the world, which, 
as a writer has justly said, "with all the explanations that can 
be offered, so much is left unexplained, that they answer very lit- 
tle purpose." We see the most certain and obvious effects pro- 
duced by the operations of active and powerful forces, which 
entirely escape our scrutiny. We walked over the heads of some 
forty thousand columns, all beautifully cut and polished, formed 
of neat pieces, so exactly fitted to each other, and so cleverly sup- 
ported, that we might fancy we had before us the work of inge- 
nious human artificers ; and yet what we beheld is the result of 
the immutable laws of nature, acting without any apparent object, 



14 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

and by a process which must forever remain a mystery to our un- 
derstanding." What is most strange is, that these columns should 
nearly all be set so regularly, beginning with the triangular, or three- 
sided, and ending with the nonogon, or nine-sided. 

We drank from the giant's well, sat in the giant's chair (well 
aware of the consequences said to follow such a rash act), saw the 
giant's organ, without hearing its sounds ; passed through his 
gateway, and left quite satisfied — at least with the amount of 
fatigue we had endured in going down and ascending the immense 
hills, through mud, wind and rain. May was quite exhausted on 
reaching the top of the hill, but refreshments and a rest revived 
her, and, after buying some views of the place, and witnessing 
the burning of peat, we started on our return. We stopped at 
Dunluce Castle. These ruins are on the great ledge of a cliff, 
separated from, rather than joined to, the main land by a bt*idge 
mostly natural, so narrow as to be dangerous to cross, and over- 
hanging the dark North Sea so perpendicularly, that how the 
towers and walls on the sea side were built it is difficult to divine. 
A writer says there is no castle in all Europe that can compare 
with Dunluce for desolate, awe-inspiring grandeur. The date of 
its erection is uncertain. The story which assigns it to D'Courcey, 
Earl of Ulster, rests upon a slender foundation. Beneath the 
castle is a long, narrow cave, which may be entered through a 
small aperture on the south, at low water. It reaches from the 
sea into the deep ravine by which the castle is surrounded. Sade 
and I crossed the narrow bridge, watching for an opportunity 
to go over between the gusts of wind, and I think we both felt a 
sense of relief when we were safely back. We returned to the 
hotel, and left at 3:35 p. m. for Belfast. Portrush stands on a bold 
headland, with a bay on each side. Opposite the town is a 
group of small rock islands, called the Skerries, which serve as a 
breakwater. It is now quite a fashionable bathing-place. 

26^//, Sunday. — May not very well. Sade, Howie, and I 
went to the Baptist church ; heard a very good sermon, after 
which there was communion ; learned that the membership of the 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 15 

church Vv^as about one hundred. The edifice is nearly new, 
plain and neat. Was informed by one of the members that 
there were only thirteen Baptist churches in Ireland, and most of 
them very small. Not feeling well, none of us went out in the 
afternoon. The Presbyterians are in the ascendency here. 

27i/?. — Walked through some of the business streets, and did 
some shopping. None of us feeling very well, and Howie having 
a sore throat, we rested most of the day. 

2Sth. — We spent the morning in going through some of the 
principal linen manufactories, where we saw the entire process of 
making linen, from the rough flax to the finishing and folding 
into pieces. We were much interested in Andrews & Co.'s 
manufactory, where the finest damask table-linen is made by 
hand. We saw some beautiful specimens with crests, monograms 
and devices. Belfast is a stirring business place, and reminds one 
of an American city. It is the metropolis of the north of Ireland, 
with a population of about 120,000. Having " seen" Belfast, 
we embarked for Glasgow at 8 p. m., on the steamer Llama. 
The accommodations were miserable. The cabins were small 
and badly arranged. There were only two state-rooms, and those 
were on deck. Every available part of the deck was crowded 
with cattle. Fortunately the night was calm, and sea smooth. 
We steamed up the Clyde by daylight, and were much astonished 
at the immense amount of ship-building going on. 

29th. — Arrived at Glasgow early in the day, and stopped at 
the Royal Hotel. After breakfast we drove out, going first to 
Queen's Park, which has been recently laid out, and is not much 
improved. It embraces one hundred acres in extent. It is 
interesting as the site of the battle of Langside, which decided the 
fate of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. From here we 
drove to the Cathedral, erected in 1133. The nave is one 
hundred and fifty feet long, and sixty-two wide. The choir, 
the part now used for worship (by the Church of Scotland), is 
ninety-seven feet long and sixty wide. The building is in the form 
of a Latin cross. It is of a '* gloomy and massive, rather than 



16 JOUENAE OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

of an elegant style of architecture." It is surrounded by high 
walls on the side toward the city. On the other there is a 
ravine, at the bottom of which runs a rivulet. Across this rivulet 
is the necropolis, on a hill which shoots suddenly up to a height 
of several hundred feet, forming a noble background to the 
Cathedral. This bold and rocky eminence is terraced, and con- 
tains many very fine monuments, the most conspicuous of which 
is the one erected to John Knox, situated on the highest eleva- 
tion. During the repairs of the church many fragments were 
discovered in the walls, showing a much older date than any part 
of the present building. It ranks, I believe, next to Westminster. 
Under it are three crypts, which are very curious and interesting. 
It has eighty-one windows, illustrating Scriptural scenes. These 
are surpassingly beautiful. They were commenced in 1859 and 
completed in 1864. All of them were contributed by different 
individuals and families, whose names and crests are on the glass. 
We drove past the University and other public buildings ; after 
this we went through some of the principal streets in the West 
End, and returned to the hotel, not very favorably impressed witli 
Glasgow as a place of residence. 

30^^. — Ere the quiet streets began to resound to the tread of 
the multitudes who were soon to throng them, we were up and 
hastily preparing for an excursion to the Highlands. At an 
early hour we were on board the lona, and 7 o'clock found us 
under way for Bennavie, the southern terminus of the Caledonian 
Canal. Our run down the Clyde was interesting : on both sides 
of the river were numerous ship-yards, drowded with arti- 
sans ; the vessels being built were nearly all of iron, and the 
noise produced by the clattering of the hammers was terrific. 
We passed the ruins of Cardross Castle, where Robert Bruce 
died in 1329. After leaving Grenock we ran across the Frith of 
Clyde, on the opposite shore of which are some villages, and 
a number of pretty villas, which, with their cultivated grounds, 
present a pleasing appearance. A short time after leaving 
Dunoon, a watering-place of some celebrity, we entered the 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 17 

Kyles of Bute, and were soon at Kothsay, a town of about 
8,000 inhabitants, on the Island of Bute. Here are the ruins 
of an old castle, once the residence of the Kings of Scotland 
Passing through" the Kyles, we entered Loch Fine, landed some 
passengers at Tarbet, at which place we had a glimpse of the 
remains of an old castle built by Robert Bruce, where he once 
I'ved. From here we steamed on to Adrishaig, the south-eastern 
terminus of the Crinan Canal. The scenery along our route is 
varied and very fine. Here we left the lona, and after quite a 
long walk embarked on a little screw steamer, which took us 
through the canal. The Crinan Canal is nine miles in length, and 
connects Loch Fine with Loch Craignish, thus saving seventy 
miles by not having to double the Mull of Cantyre. After 
reaching Crinan, the terminus of the canal, we left our " tiny 
bark," and were soon on board of another, more pretentious 
in name as well as size, the "Chevalier." Soon after getting 
under way, dinner was announced, and a very poor one it proved 
to be. The only enjoyable thing about it was a little incident 
that occurred, which afforded some merriment. Napkins are 
never furnished on English steamboats ; various were the calls 
made on this occasion for those indispensable articles, but 
calls were of no avail. One gentleman, more importunate 
than the rest in his appeals to the waiter, had, it seems, touched 
the right chord. The man went out, and soon returned with 
something between a brown and white in color, very neatly 
folded, which he quietly slipped in his hands. Shadows of dis- 
appointment, a little tinged with envy, spread over the faces of 
the other applicants as their more fortunate competitor held up his 
prize. He gazed at it triumphantly for a moment, then burst into 
a loud laugh, as he exclaimed, " I asked him for a napkin, and 
lie has brought me a pillow-case," unfolding it as he spoke, to 
convince the passengers of the fact. The shouts of laughter that 
followed were electrifying, and this pleasant disappointment seemed 
for the time a substitute for the dinner of which we were about 
to partake. After leaving Crinan we passed through the 



18 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

Dorishtmore. The islands of Jura and Scarba are in sight; 
between them is the *' dreaded" whirlpool of Corrivreckon : 

«• Where the wave is tinged with red, 
And the russet sea-leaves grow, 
Mariners, with prudent dread. 
Shun the shelving rocks below. 

'• As you pass through Jura's sound, 

Bend your course by Scarba's shore ; 
Shun, shun the gulf profound. 
When Corrivreckon's surges roar." 

We passed through Loch Craignish and then crossed Jura's 
Sound — the Sound of Luing entering Kerera Sound, on Vi^hich 
is the beautiful little harbor of Oban, which is protected from 
the sea by the Island of Kerera. We landed some passengers at 
Oban, and proceeded on our way, passing through Lochs Etive, 
Linnhe and Leven, stopping again at Ballachulish to land pas- 
sengers for Glencoe, some miles back from the loch. I am 
«orry that we had not made our arrangements to visit this 
place, as it is said to excel any glen in Scotland for the wild- 
ness, dreariness, and splendor of its scenery. It was there that 
the Clan Macdonald was infamously massacred by the English 
troops, an account of which I read when a boy, in Scott's " Tales 
of a Grandfather," which I had borrowed from one now dead. 
We proceeded, landed some passengers at Fort William, and 
reached Corpack on Locheil after dark, where an omnibus was 
awaiting to take us to Bennavie about a mile distant. We stopped 
at the Lochiel Arms Hotel, a good house, but in consequence 
of its being crowed, aiforded us poor accommodations. The 
scenery on the entire route is bold, and increases in wildness and 
grandeur after passing Oban. At some points it is the very sub- 
limity of grandeur and gloominess. The hotel stands alone, near 
the terminus of the Caledonian Canal, which connects Lochs 
Lochy, Oich, Ness, and Doushfour, making sixty miles, twenty-one 
of canal and thirty-nine of lake. It commences at Inverness, and 
by it the waters of the German and Atlantic Oceans are united. 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 19 

Vessels of a large size can pass through it. We had a good view 
of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain, being 4,400 
feet above the sea. 

31sL — After breakfast we drove to Inverlocky Castle, now in 
ruins. It is triangular in shape, with four large towers, thirty- 
feet high, two of which are nearly perfect, and were ascended by 
Sade and I. It has been the scene of many bloody engage- 
ments. It is noted more particularly for the encounter which 
took place during the reign of James I, between Donald of the 
Isles and the Earls of Mar and Caithness, in which the latter 
were defeated and Caithness slain.* The Marquis of Montrose 
in 1645 achieved here one of his most decisive victories over 
his great adversary the Marquis of Argyle. After going through 
and ofver the ruins, we drove on to Fort William, where we par- 
took of a lunch at the Caledonia Hotel, for which the price of a 
good dinner was charged. We then embarked on the steamer 
Mountaineer at 4 p. m. on our return, arriving at Oban at 7 
o'clock. We stopped at the Caledonia Hotel, where we had a 
good supper, good beds, and a good night's sleep. 

* Tales of a Grandfather. 



20 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THEOUGH 



SEPTEMBER. 

Isf. — We were up and dressed before the lark had shaken the 
dew from her wings. Had a good breakfast, and at 8 o'clock 
were on board of the Chevalier. We saw the boat leaving for 
StaiFa and lona, but the sea was thought to be too rough for the 
passengers to land. Those two islands are of great interest, and 
we should have liked much to have visited them, but were not pre- 
pared to do so. 

We had an exceedingly unpleasant run across the Sounds, as 
there was a heavy sea rolling in. Most of the passengers were 
sick, but only for a short time, as we were soon in^^ smooth 
water. The coast along this route is successively indentated with 
sounds and salt-water lochs, running up many miles inland, upon 
the borders of which is some of the finest scenery in Scotland. 

At Tarbet, and at every landing-place between there and Glas- 
gow, we took in large numbers of passengers, apparently mechanics 
and workmen, who, as I learned, had come down in the morn' 
ing to spend the day. Every inch of space on the decks seemed 
occupied, and apparently every other man was intoxicated. Sing- 
ing, swearing, and fighting were the favorite amusements, and we 
were glad to get away from such a crowd, at 7 J P. m., when we 
arrived at the wharf, fully impressed with the idea that Saturday 
is a bad day for travelling in the vicinity of Glasgow. When we 
started on this excursion I was not aware that Inverness was 
connected with the lower part of Scotland by railroad, and my 
ignorance cheated us out of a most delightful excursion through 
the Caledonian Canal and down by rail to Stirling. 

2d, Sunday. — Attended services at the Baptist church in 
the morning. The building is entirely unsuited to the purpose 
for which it is used. Having no windows, it is lighted from 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 21 

the roof; the walls were dingy and smoky. The pastor, Rev. 
Mr. T. W. Medhurst, is a young man, not prepossessing in ap- 
pearance. Altogether we felt as if we had gone to the wrong 
church. But appearances sometimes deceive, and this is one of 
the instances in which they did, for we had a most eloquent and 
impressive sermon, earnest in its style and forcible in its appli- 
cation. His text was : " The harvest is the end of the world." 
I was informed at the close of the services that he was a pupil 
of Spurgeon, and that his labors had been greatly blessed. There 
are quite a number of small Baptist churches in Scotland, but 
as they are not united in action, they accomplish very little. 

In the afternoon we attended the Cathedral, and heard a good 
sermon, with beautiful singing. St. George's Square, opposite 
to our hotel, has several statues on it, the best of which is that 
erected to Sir Walter Scott. 

Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland ; and the third largest 
in the United Kingdom ; its population is 450,000, and it is a place 
of great commercial importance. Prior to the first war between 
England and America its principal trade was in tobacco, which 
brought great wealth to the place and gave its. merchants the 
names of " tobacco lords. " 

Sd. — At 11 o'clock we were comfortably seated in the cars, and 
on our way to Balloch, at the foot of Loch Lomond. A short run 
brought us there, and we transferred ourselves and baggage to a 
boat, and were soon steaming up the ^' Pearl of all the Scottish 
Lakes." Great had been our expectations, and great was to be 
our disappointment. The elements conspired against us ; the 
wind blew a gale ; the slanting rain came dashing down fearfully 
against the boat, and woe unto him who had the temerity to re- 
main on deck. Thrice I tried to go up on deck, and each time 
had to return. 1 yielded to fate, and contented myself with look- 
ing at the disappointed visages of the passengers or out on the 
angry waters of the lake. As we approached Tarbet the weather 
became pleasant, and we enjoyed the fine scenery near that point. 
"We landed and remained over night there, stopping at the Tarbet 



22 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

Hotel, an excellent house, delightfully situated and surrounded by 
beautiful grounds. We had a pleasant walk up the banks of the 
lake. Sade gathered some wild flowers, and Howie amused him- 
self with a little dog that had followed us from the hotel, and 
seemed to take a great fancy to him. 

Ath. — Poetically speaking, " before the green earth had begun 
to smile on the red dawn," which prosaically speaking means 
very early rising, Sade, Howie, and I were up and ready for a 
walk. Sade had been very anxious to ascend a mountain. The 
opportunity seemed favorable. Little Howie, who had accom- 
panied us a short distance, returned. I proceeded a little further 
on, and agreed to wait. Sade commenced the ascent, over the high 
grass, there being no path. After progressing about two thirds of 
the way I saw that she was getting tired, and as the time for break- 
fast was drawing near, I signalled her return. On reaching the 
hotel we found breakfast ready, and we both received a scolding 
from Howie for keeping it waiting. 

At 10:15 A. M. we left on the steamer for Inversnaid, situated 
a short distance above. We landed, and after paying the usual 
sixpence wharfage, took the coach for Stronachlacher, at the 
upper end of Loch Katrine. The road was fine, and we enjoyed 
our ride. After waiting an hour at the wharf, the little steamer 
arrived ; we hurried on board and were soon on our way down the 
lake, which is about nine miles in length. The scenery was not 
particularly striking until we approached the lower end, where 
its grandeur and beauty are beyond description. We landed at the 
rustic pier. The passengers rushed for the stage-coaches as if a 
phantom army of Clan Alpine's warriors of old were at their 
heels. We remained behind, and after all had gone, hired a boat 
and went over to Ellen's Isle, where 

"For retreat in danger's hour, 
Some chief liad iormed a rustic bower. " 

We all landed, but as the path was steep and difficult, only 
Sade and I went up, and over the island. We determined, 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 23 

of course, upon the exact spot on which Ellen's bower stood. 
Sade gathered some wild flowers, and we returned to the boat, 
when little Howie rowed us over to the " silver strand," the place 
where Ellen and Fitz- James first met. We were then rowed 
around the island, and so exact were the descriptions given by 
Scott in the " Lady of the Lake," that we could easily recognize 
the principal points as they came in view : 

'* With proinoritory, creek a,iid bay, 
And islands that, empurpled bright. 
Floated amid the livelier light ; 
And mountains, that like giants stand, 
To sentinel enchanted land. 
High on the south, huge Benvenue 
Down on the lake in masses threw 
Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly huii'd — 
The fragments of an earlier world ; 
A wildering forest feathered o'er 
His ruined sides and summit hoar. 
While on the north, through middle air, 
Ben-an heaved high his forehead bare. " 

We enjoyed our row to the fullest extent. On landing we 
learned that there were no conveyances, and we had to walk 
through the famous pass of the Trossachs to the Trossachs Hotel, 
about two miles distant. We enjoyed the walk, and on our ar- 
rival had a capital lunch. The fiotel is a fine one, and beauti- 
fully situated — a most delightful place in which to spend a month, 
or to live the summer away. It was at the entrance of this pass 
that Fitz- James lost his " gallant gray." 

We had a pleasant ride over to Callender, passing in sight of 
Coitantogle Ford, the scene of the combat between Fitz-James 
and Roderick Dhu. Little Howie repeated as soon as he saw it : 

' ' For this in Coitantogle's ford, 
And thou must keep thee with thy sword." 

We took the cars at Callender, and in an hour were at Stirling. 
Stopped at the Golden Lion. Mr. and Mrs. R. travelled with us 



24 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

from Queenstown to Stirling, and we found tLem very agreeable 
and entertaining. 

oth. — After an early breakfast, we left on a " tour of observa- 
tion." Stirling is an old town, with a population of 13,000; not 
very prepossessing in its appearance. The castle and the asso- 
ciations connected with it, and the surroundings, make it, how- 
ever, a place of great historical interest. The castle is situated 
on the brow of a precipitous rock, on one side four hundred feet 
high, and almost perpendicular, overlooking the wide carse, or 
valley of Stirling. It is now used as a barrack for soldiers. It is 
not, I believe, known at what period it was founded, but it datts 
very far back, as Alexander I. died in it in 1124. About the time 
of the accession of the House of Stuart, it became first a place of 
royal residence, and long after, the favorite resort of the Jameses. 
James II. and V. were born in it, and the latter was crowned 
there. There Mary was also crowned, and in it James VI. and 
his eldest son were baptized. James II. built the Parliament 
House, and added otherwise largely to it. It was the favorite 
residence of James IV. James V. built the palace. In the north- 
west corner is the Douglas room, in which James II. treacher- 
ously assassinated William, Earl of Douglas. The Chapel Royal, 
which was erected in 1594, by James VI., on the demolition of 
St. Michael's Chapel, for the baptism of his eldest son. Prince 
Henry, is now used as a store-room and armory. It contains a 
number of old relicsj in the shape of armor and weapons of war. 
Among them is a tilting lance which belonged to James V. 
Little Howie was delighted to have an opportunity to see and 
handle a lance which his favorite Fitz- James had once used. The 
view from the battlements is of the most varied and magnificent 
description. The meaaderings of the river Forth form a striking 
and singular feature of the carse of Stirling, and the graceful 
windings are so numerous as to extend six miles by land to 
twenty by water. In one of the peninsulas formed by the 
curvatures of the river, stands the tower of the old Abbey of Cam- 
buskenoeth, founded and richly endowed by David I. The view 



GBEAT BEITAIN Al^D ON THE CONTINENT. 25 

toward the east sweeps over the plains, nearly eighty miles in length 
and eighteen in breadth, varied with verdant meadows, cultivated 
fields, and luxuriant green woods. To the south, the horizon is 
closed by the Campsie Hills. The Vale of Menteith lies to the 
west, bounded by the screen of mountains encircling the lakes, 
and constituting the frontiers of the Highlands. Ben Lomond 
and Benledei are the most conspicious of the group. Ben- 
vanue and Ben-an appear in the background. The Field of 
Bannockburn, which gave to Scotland independence, and to 
Bruce a crown, lies fuU in view; and three miles to the south of 
it was fought the battle of Sanchieburn, in 1488, between James 
III. and his rebellious barons, who had drawn into their party 
his son, a lad of fifteen, (afterward James IV.), in which the 
king was slain. North-east of the castle is Abbey Craig, a high, 
rocky precipice, on which is a monument to Sir William Wallace, 
to commemorate the victory won by him over Edward II., Sep- 
tember 13, 1297. There are no less than twelve battle-fields in 
sight of the castle. The burying-ground adjacent to the castle 
is prettily laid out, and in it are some fine monuments. Near 
the castle is Gallows Hill, a place where criminals and others were 
executed. It was here that Duncan, Earl of Lenox, Murdoch, 
Duke of Albany, his son-in-law, and Walter and Alexander, his 
sons, were beheaded, in 1424, in full view of the magnificent 
Castle of Doune, which Murdoch had built for his own residence. 
We descended to the plain below, walked around the lower end 
of the castle, and returned by a winding road on the opposite 
side, into which, tradition says, a secret subterranean passage led 
from the castle, called Ballangeich,* through which James V. used 
to pass in making his excursions among his people incog. 

Qth. — We visited Argyle's lodging, or rather passed by it, situ- 
ated on the north side of Castle- Wind ; also. Mar's Work, an un- 
finished edifice intended for a palace. It was built by the Regent, 

* A Gaelic word signifying a •' winding pass," which is remarkable as 
having furnished the ficticious name adopted by James V. , the gude man 
of Ballangeich. 

2 



26 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

Earl of Mar, in 1570, he being hereditary governor of the castle. 
Adjoining it is a Gothic church, built by James IV. In this 
church James VI. was crowned when only thirteen years old, 
John Knox preaching the coronation sermon. After walking 
through some of the principal streets, we returned to the hotel, 
had lunch, and left at 3:15 p. m. for Edinburgh, arriving in a 
little over an hour. We stopped at McGreggor's Koyal Hotel, 
with which we were much pleased. The rooms were cheerful, 
and bill of fare good. 

1th. — After breakfast, I took a walk around the city ; saw the 
beautiful Gothic monument to Sir Walter Scott, which stands in 
East Prince Street Gardens, nearly opposite our hotel ; passed 
around St. Andrew's Square, on which is a monument to Lord 
Melville, Treasurer of the Navy and coadjutor of Pitt. Lord 
Brougham and David Hume were born in houses fronting on this 
square. I returned to the hotel, and with May and Sade, visited 
the Antiquarian Museum (in the Royal Institution), where there 
is a large collection of Roman and Celtic antiquities, and many 
other curiosities of a later date, one of which was a machine of 
Scottish invention, called the Maiden,^ for the beheading of crim- 
inals and others, and by wliich many of the noblest and best men 
in the land suffered death ; another, the Thumhrican, a thumb- 
screw, which was much used against the Covenanters ; also, John 
Knox's pulpit, a cast of the head of Robert Bruce, and many 
other things of interest, which my limited space will not allow me 
to mention. 

Sth. — We went to the National Gallery of Paintings, in which 
is a very large collection — ancient and modern — good, bad, and 
indifferent. We passed hurriedly through the gallery, expecting 
to visit it again, and did not examine many of the pictures. The 
one in which I was most interested w^as the " Battle of Bannock- 
burn," by Sir Wm. Allen, about twelve by sixteen feet. The per- 



* The Kegent, Morton, was beheaded by this machine. It was he who 
introduced it. 



GEE AT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 27 

spective is very fine, and the entire picture lifelike and natural. 
From the Gallery, we went up on Calton Hill, and ascended the 
Nelson monument, one hundred and seventy steps, from which we 
had a good view of the city and surroundings. There are several 
monuments on the hill ; one, unfinished for the want of funds, is a 
national monument, commemorative of those who fell at Water- 
loo, (intended to be a copy of the Parthenon), but only a small part 
has been built. From the Nelson monument, the dark roofs and 
chimneys of the greater part of the city appear far below us, and 
the black smoke, pouring up from these chimneys, hovers over 
the city like a dark cloud, almost shutting out the sun's rays. 

^th, Sunday. — Attended services at the Dublin Street Baptist 
Church in the morning, and heard a good sermon from Matthew 
xxvi:29, by the pastor, a very old man ; communion after the close 
of the services. On making inquiry, I learned from one of the 
members that strangers were not permitted to commune unless 
they had letters from the church to which they belonged, and as 
we had none, we did not remain. I noticed that no invitations 
were extended to members of sister churches, as is the custom 
with us ; indeed, no reference was made to the ordinance. It 
seemed to be understood, as all but the communicants left as soon 
as the morning services closed. 

In the afternoon we went to St. Giles', the ancient parish 
church of Edinburgh, dedicated to its tutelar saint, the Abbot 
and Confessor, St. Giles. This church was so changed in 1829, 
that at present it gives a false idea of the original. It is now 
divided into three separate chapels, all of which have services at 
the same hour. We listened to a good sermon, by Mr. Wallace, 
the pastor, from Nehemiah, v : 19. The history of St. Giles' is 
very interesting, and would fill a small volume. James VI. 
delivered his farewell address in it, on his departure for England 
to take possession of the crown. John Knox was buried in the 
cemetery belonging to the church. 

10^^. — We visited Holyrood Palace and Abbey, or rather what 
is left of these places of ancient splendor. The former was once 



28 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

the residence of the Scottish royalty. Only a part of the walls 
of the abbey remains. 

The picture gallery is the largest apartment, measuring one 
hundred and fifty feet in length, and twenty-seven in breadth. 
The walls are adorned with a large number of pictures, among 
which are Dewitt's fanciful portraits of one hundred and six Scottish 
kings, "done in a style truly barbarous," a good picture of Mary 
Queen of Scots, and some historical paintings. We saw in 
Lord Darnley's room a number of portraits, among them, one of 
himself while a boy, and one of his brother. Lord Darnley had 
access from this suite of rooms to the private stairway communi- 
cating with the Queen's chambers above. The tapestry room is 
in the part of the palace built by Charles II., and contains two large 
pieces of tapestry, representing Constantine looking up at the fiery 
cross in the heavens, and the battle between Constantine and 
Maxentius, near Rome, both of which are beautifully executed. 
Portraits of James IV. and of the Duke of Hamilton and others, 
are in this room. We went next to the most interesting part of the 
palace — the apartments of Queen Mary, which remain in nearly 
the same state as when she last occupied them. We first entered 
the audience chamber, passing through it into the bedroom, with 
its quaint old furniture. The bed is short and narrow, the posts 
hi"h, plain and very small, with canopy at the top, trimmed with 
a sort of frill. The bedding looks as if it would fall to pieces if 
touched. In the room is a little box, the top of which was 
worked by Mary when twelve years old. On one side of the room 
is the door to the secret passage leading into Lord Darnley's room, 
which is still lower down. It was by this passage that the con- 
spirators entered. Adjoining the chamber is a small room re- 
sembling a closet, in which they found Hizzio, their victim, whom 
they dragged through the chamber into the audience room, and 
just outside of the door he was despatched. A dark spot on the 
floor is shown as having been made by his blood, as his body lay 
there. 

Adjoining the palace are the ruins of the Chapel Royal, a mere 



GBEAT BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 1^9 

fragment of the ancient abbey of Holy rood House. It was founded 
by David I., in 1128. Tlie place is pointed out where the altar 
stood, before which the beautiful and unfortunate Mary was 
married to Henry Darnley, the nearest heir to the English crown. 
He was a very bad man, and was afterward murdered at Stir- 
ling, at the instigation of Bothwell, who very soon afterward 
maiTied Mary. Charles I. was crowned in the abbey, in which 
are the tombs of a number of the Scottish nobility. In the south- 
east corner is the royal vault, where are deposited the remains 
of David 11., James II., JamesV., and Magdalen his queen, Henry, 
Lord Darnley, and other illustrious persons; Eizzio was also 
buried in one corner of the chapel. 

On our return to the city we passed Canongate Tolbooth, or 
Court-house, which was erected in the reign of James VI. We 
also passed the house in which John Knox lived ; the vicinity was 
exceedingly filthy, and we did not stop, but drove on to the 
Advocate's Library, which is one of the largest in Scotland. It 
is entitled to a volume of every book published in Great Britain. 
Among other things in it we saw the original manuscript of a 
volume of Waverley. We next went to the Castle,* and visited 
Queen Mary's rooms in which she was imprisoned, the crown 
room, in which we saw the crown, sceptre, a sword of state, the 
Lord Treasurers' rod of office, a ring worn by Charles I., and two 
diamond ornaments, one with a minature of Queen Ann of Den- 
mark, wife of James VI. We also went into Queen Margaret's 
chapel, a very small room. We saw the enormous old cannon 
Mons Meg, made at Mons in Brittany in 1476. It is wrought, 
and hooped together like a barrel, and is about 20 inches bore. 
In 1682 it burst while firing a salute An honor of the visit of the 
Duke of York. The interior of the castle is so covered with 



* See Scott's description of its capture from the English by Eandolph, 
Earl of Moray, 1313 : Tales of a Grandfather. Sir Wm. Kirkaldy de- 
fended it for Mary Queen of Scots thirty-three days against the combined 
forces of England and Scotland. 



30 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

barracks as to exclude the view, except on the side toward the 
city. 

f^ 11th. — Had an early breakfast and left in the cars on an ex- 
cursion to Hawthornden, and Roslyn Castle and Abbey. Haw- 
thornden was the residence of the poet Drumraond, the friend of 
Sbakspeare and Ben Jonson. It is now the property and resi- 
dence of Lady Walker Drummond. Ben Jonson walked from 
London here to visit Drummond. 

The large and beautiful tree under which Drummond was sitting, 
and where he received his friend, is still standing in the yard. 

It was under this — 

" Where Jonson sat in Drummond's social shade." 

On his arrival Drummond met him with the rythmical saluta- 
tion — 

" Welcome, -welcome, royal Ben." 

I To which Jonson replied, impromptu — 

"Thank ye, thank ye, Hawthornden." 

The house was built with a view to defence, and is situated on 
the very edge of a high and rocky cliff, which descends perpendic- 
ularly down to the small river Esk. We went through several 
subterranean caves under the mansion, hewn out of the solid 
rock, and connected with each other by long passages. There 
is a very deep well in the court-yard which communicates with 
the caves, which are supposed to have been constructed as places 
of refuge in time of danger. Wallace is said to have been con- 
cealed here at one time, and a very large, old, and rusty sword is 
shown in the caverns as having belonged to him. 

From Hawthornden we walked to Roslyn Castle, about two 
miles distant, a part of the way through grounds belonging to 
the former place. In pleasant weather the walk for most of the 
way would have been delightful, as it passes through a shady 
glen along the banks of the river, which is crossed by a bridge. 
The path was narrow, and there had been rain, and the walk was 



GREAT BKETAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 31 

miserably muddy and slippery, particularly the latter part of it. 
We, however, got safely over and reached the castle (in ruins), 
which stands upon a perpendicular rock, and is accessible only by 
a bridge of great height over a deep cut in the solid rock. It 
has a triple tier of vaults, and before the days of gunpowder must 
have been impregnable. Its origin is not known, but it was long 
the abode of the St. Clairs, Earls of Caithness and Orkney, a most 
ancient and noble family, renowned for their valor, and for an ex- 
hibition of taste and learning beyond the age in which they 
lived.* In 1544 the castle was burned by the Earl of Hertford, 
and in 1650 it surrendered to General Monk. It is very romanti- 
cally situated, and must have been a charming place in its day. 
We walked over to the chapel, which was founded in 1446 by 
Wm. St. Clair, third Earl of Orkney, and Lord of Roslyn. This 
is considered the most highly-decorated specimen of ecclesiastical 
architecture in Scotland. The interior, both walls and ceilings, 
are covered with the most chaste, elaborate and wonderful speci- 
mens of carving and chiselling, all of stone, and how some of it, so 
delicately and finely wrought as to resemble rich draperies of 
lace, could ever have been cut out is a mystery. In the revo- 
lution of 1688 a part of the building was defaced by a mob from 
Edinburgh, at which time most of the statuary, among which 
were the twelve Apostles' in alcoves on the side of the walls, and 
the Virgin at the end, were destroyed. This loss detracts very 
much from the beauty of the chapel. There are many Scriptural 
and other devices carved on the walls and ceilings, the most beau- 
tiful of which are the pendants, two feet long, corning down from 
the keystones of the arches, enriched with sculptured foliage and 
figures, in which are the Star of Bethlehem, the Virgin and Child, 
the Three Magi, and the Angel of Death. Among many others 
are the following, some of which are grotesque : the hart's-tongue 
fern, the early kail, the trefoil, oak leaves and flowers. The only 

* Sir Wm. St. Glair having accompanied Douglas in his expedition to 
Palestine with the heart of Bruce, landed with their expedition in Spain, 
where they both fell in fighting the Saracens. 



32 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

repetition in the emblems is with the rose, which is prodigally scat- 
tered over the building, both outside and in. Among the designs 
on the capitals of the pillars, mention may be made of the fol- 
lowing : thirteen angels playing on various musical instruments ; 
a warrior with a helmet, sword and spear ; a monk drinking ; a 
soldier ; a queen ; a female praying ; a crouched figure of death ; 
a female in a chair ; an elephant ; Sampson slaying the liOn ; two 
hands grasping cockle-shells ; the lamb and flag ; two doves ; the 
prodigal son feeding swine ; the crucifixion, with nine figures ; and 
the Disciples beholding the descent of their Lord from afar. Among 
designs on brackets and elsewhere I will mention : the descent from 
the cross; the angels rolling the stone from the sepulchre; the 
twelve Apostles and four martyrs with their respective emblems ; 
and flowers sprouting from the empty sockets of a skull. Some of 
the designs on the architraves are : a fox carrying offa goose, which 
a pursuing farmer endeavors to rescue ; Sampson pulling down the 
house of the Philistines; the Dance of Death, in which are repre- 
sented a king, a courtier, a cardinal, a bishop, a lady looking in 
a mirror, an abbess, an abbot, a farmer, a husband and wife, a 
child, a sportsman, a gardener, a carpenter, a ploughman, and a 
bishop in full pontificals giving the blessing. The vices are 
represented by the- proud Pharisee ; the drunkard ; the careless 
shepherd ; the rich fool ; the miser ; and the sinful lovers ; while 
the devil in the dragon's mouth stretches out his claws for his 
prey. The virtues are represented by persons clothing the naked, 
leading the blind, visiting the sick, feeding the hungry, visiting 
the prisoner, with the burial of the dead, a bishop, St. Peter 
with the keys, and a scroll with this inscription in Lombardic 
characters: "Forte est vinum, fortior est rex, fortiores sunt 
mulieres ; super omnia autem vincit Veritas. 1st Esd. chap, iii, 
verses 10, 12." — (Apocrypha.) The English of these words is : 
Wine is strong, the king is stronger, women are still stronger ; 
but truth conquers all things. 

The 'Prentices' Pillar, which is at the end, in the south-east 
corner of the Ladies' Chapel, is thought to be the most attractive 



GKEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 33 

part of the building. It represents an angel with a bagpipe, with 
another figure at its feet ; Isaac lying on the altar, Abraham 
with uplifted hands, and the ram caught in the thicket. Around 
the base of the pillar are dragons entwined and chained. The 
pillar is encircled with a winding wreath of foliage and flowers. 

On the outer walls of the building are St. Sebastian bound to 
a tree and pierced by arrows, two soldiers holding the rope with 
which he is bound, and crouching so as to avoid the arrows, St. 
Christopher with staff in hand, and carrying the infant Savior on 
his shoulder across the river, and many other figures. 

The soldiers of Cromwell, under General Monk, who, in their 
Puritan zeal, defaced so many of the magnificent ecclesiastical 
edifices in England, Ireland and Scotland, used this chapel as a 
stable for their troopers during the time they were beseiging the 
castle, and did it great injury. It was repaired by General St. 
Clair of Koslyn. The Barons of Roslyn are buried in the chapel, 
all of whom, till the time of James VII, were interred in complete 
armor. On opening the vault, during the present century, two 
coffins, six and seven feet long, were found at its entrance, and so 
much decayed that they could not be i-emoved ; the vault was 
then sealed up, and the deceased members of the family have 
since been buried under the chancel, the last Lord Roslyn being 
buried in June of this year. The high altar of the Virgin is 
raised two feet above the floor, and underneath it is a flight of 
twenty-two steps, leading down to a building to the east of the 
chapel, on the slope of a hill, which descends so abruptly that the 
eastern window of the building is some few feet only above the 
exterior soil. This is supposed to have been used by the priestly 
custodian of the chapel for his private meditations. We returned 
quite late to Edinburgh by stage, and had a pleasant ride. 

\Wi. — We spent a part of the morning in driving through some 
of the fashionable streets, passing around Moray Place, and were 
favorably impressed with the general appearance of the residences. 
Edinburgh is certainly a very beautiful city. The old and hew 
parts are divided by a deep ravine, through which the railway 

2* 



34 JOURNAL OP A TOUR THROUGH 

passes. The sides of this ravine are terraced into beautiful gar- 
dens, and crossed by spacious bridges. The population of the city- 
is about 200,000. 

ISth. — We left Edinburgh at 9:45 a. m. for Melrose, and on ar- 
rival stopped at the George Hotel, and procuring a carriage, we 
drove some five miles to the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey, found- 
ed in 1 150, by Hugh de Moreville, Lord of Lauderdale, upon a site 
which was supposed to have been originally a place of Druidical 
worship. It was burned to the ground by Edward II., on his 
retreat from his unsuccessful invasion of Scotland, in 1322. 
Kobert I. contributed liberally toward its repairs. In 1544 it 
was again destroyed by the English, under Sir Brian Latoun and 
Sir Ralph Evers. The King of England had promised Evers and 
•Latoun a feudal grant of the country, which they had reduced to 
a desert. On hearing of this, Archibald Douglas, seventh Earl 
of Angus, is said to have sworn to write the deed of investiture 
upon their skins, with sharp pens and bloody ink, in resentment 
for their having defaced and destroyed the tombs of his ancestors 
at Melrose. The following year Evers and Latoun repeated their 
invasion, when they destroyed some monasteries and friars' houses, 
sixteen towers, castles and piles, four market towns, thirteen 
mills, and two hundred and forty-three villages (so say the 
records). When these spoilers, numbering five thousand two 
hundred, turned their faces homeward, they were followed 
by the Earl of Angus, at the head of one thousand horse, and the 
famous Norman Leslie, with a small body of Fifemen. Sir W. 
Scott, of Buccleuch, joined them at full speed, with a small 
body of chosen men and his retainers. A battle ensued, in 
which the English were defeated, with a loss of eight hundred 
killed, and among them Sir Ealph Evers and his son. Sir Brian 
Latoun, and many others of rank.* The Earl of Angus had kept 
his promise. The Abbey consisted of a church, in the usual form 
of a cross, and an adjoining monastery. The architecture dis- 

• Battle of LilHard's Edge, or Ancram Moor. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 35 

plays both the Norman and early English arch. The principal 
remains of the church are the western gable of tlie nave, the 
chapter-house and St Moden's chapel, the ends of the transept 
and part of the choir, and of the monastery. The founder of the 
abbey is buried in the chapter-house. St. Catherine's window, 
twelve feet in diameter and much overgrown with ivy, is a beai - 
tiful feature in this part of the ruins. The nave of the church is 
one hundred and ninety feet by seventy-five. Under the high 
altar James Stuart, (of the Darnley family) the last Abbot, lies 
buried. The refectory, or dining-room of the monks, occupied 
the whole front facing the south, and was one hundred by thirty 
feet, and sixty feet high. Under this were tlie wine-cellars In 
St. Mary's aisle is the tomb of Sir Walter Scott, who was buried 
24th September, 1832, in the tomb of the Halliburtons, his ances- 
tors. Under the Abbey are several dungeons, in one of which is a 
place cut out of the rock, where the hands of refractory monks and 
others were placed and wedged in with wood, placing them, in a 
position where they could neither sit nor lie down. I was dis- 
appointed with these ruins, though there is much remaining that 
is interesting Sade plucked a honeysuckle from the walls, grow- 
ing so high up that she had to be lifted to reach it. It was per- 
fect of its kind. 

We drove back to Melrose and passed directly on to Abbots- 
ford, the former residence of Sir Walter Scott, now owned by 
James R. Hope Scott, Esq. It is situated on the south bank of 
the Tweed. We went through the building first. The walls of 
the hall are panelled with richly carved oak from the palace of 
Dunfermline, and the roof consists of painted arches of the same 
material. There is a line of coats-armorial around the cornices, 
richly blazoned, belonging to the famihes who kept the borders. 
The floor is of blue and white marble, from the Hebrides, and the 
walls are hung with ancient armor and military implements. The 
armory, which runs quite across the house, and communicates 
with the drawing-room on the one side, and the dining-room on 
the other, contains a quantity of arms and armor and other 



36 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

articles, among which may be'^named the hunting-knife of Prince 
Charlie, beautifully decorated with gold ; a pair of pistols and 
a cloak-clasp, representing two bees, taken from Napoleon's 
carriage at Waterloo ; the suit of armor belonging to James V* 
(Howie's friend), and arms of every variety from all parts of the 
world. The drawing room is a lofty saloon, with wood of cedar 
and antique ebony furniture, a number of pictures being on the 
walls. The dining-room, which Sir Walter used as a chamber a 
short time before his death, and in which he died, contains a fine 
collection of pictures, the most interesting of which are the head 
of Mary Queen of Scots in a charger, the day after her execution ; 
full-length portraits of Lord Essex, Oliver Cromwell, Claverhouse, 
Charles II., Charles XII , of Sweden, with several family pictures, 
including the father and mother, and the grandfather of Scott. 
The latter had a long beard, which he allowed to grow after the 
death of Charles I., having made a vow never to shave after the 
king's death. The breakfast-room is a small one overlooking the 
Tweed on one side, and the hills of Ettrick and Yarrow on the 
other. The library, sixty by fifty feet, has a carved oak roof, 
chiefly after the models from Roslyn. The collection of books 
amounts to about twenty thousand volumes ; a large picture of 
his son. Colonel Sir W. Scott, hangs on the mantle, and a secre- 
tary presented by George IV. adorns the room. This room 
communicates with the study, which is, perhaps, the most inter- 
esting of all the apartments, associated as it is with Scott's 
writings. It contains a small writing-table, a plain arm-chair, and 
a single chair besides. A light gallery of tracery work runs round 
three sides of the room, while a single window admits a 
sombre light into the place. In a small closet adjoining is a bust 
of the great author, taken after death. In the hall is a case con- 
taining the last suit of clothes worn by Sir Walter. The grounds 
are very tastefully laid out, and are kept in good order. The 
entire improvements were made under Sir Walter Scott's imme- 
diate supervision. The place, taken altogether, is very attractive, 
and the most " livable" lookins; one I have seen. There are, in 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 37 

the different rooms, many rare and beautiful presents from persons 
of distinction, too numerous to remember or name in a journal 
like this. From Abbotsford we returned to ])lelrose, and, dis- 
missinor our carriage, we entered the enclosure of the ruins of 
Melrose Abbey, said to be one of the iinest remains of Gothic ar- 
chitecture in Scotland. The stone of which it Avas built was 
taken from the same quarry as that of Dryburgh, and hardens by 
age. Much of the ornamental work retains its original sharp- 
ness. The part remaining consists of the church, in the usual 
form of a Latin cross, with a square tower in the centre, eighty- 
four feet high. The parts in best preservation are the choir and 
transept, the west side, and a part of the nave, nearly the whole 
of the south aisle, and a part of the north aisle. The main en- 
trance is by a rich Gothic portal in the south transept. Above this 
portal is a perfect window twenty-four by sixteen feet, in the best 
style of florid tracery ; over the window are nine niches and 
two buttresses, which formerly contained images of our Savior 
and the Apostles. Beneath the window is a statue of John 
Baptist, with his eyes directed upward, as if looking upon the image 
above. The carvings on the pedestals and canopies of the niches 
exhibit a variety of quaint figures and devices. On the east and 
west sides area diversity of sculptured forms of plants and animals, 
and on the south side a number of musicians, well cut. In the 
south wall of the nave are eight beautiful windows, each sixteen 
by eight feet ; these light eight small chapels of uniform size. The 
end next to the central tower is arched over, including the side 
aisles and chapels, with their original Gothic roofs; and the 
middle avenue with a plain vault thrown over. In 1618, this 
part of the building was fitted up as a parish church. The choir 
and chancel, in the form of a half Greek cross, display the 
best architectural taste. The eastern window in particular is 
elegant and beautiful. The original, beautifully-fretted and sculp- 
tured stone roof of the east end of the chancel is still standing. 
The exterior is embellished with niches, and carved canopies of 
elegant designs, some of them still containing statues. The clois- 



38 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

ters formed a quadrangle on the north-west side of the church, 
the door of which is elegantly carved. The foliage on the capi- 
tals of the pilasters, on each side, is so nicely chiselled that a straw 
can be made to penetrate the interstices between the leaves and 
stalks. 

Many gallant warriors lie buried in the abbey, and the heart 
of Robert Bruce, after Douglas' unsuccessful attempt to carry it 
to the Holy Land, was deposited under the high altar. A small 
broken stone is pointed out as the place of interment.* The 
abbey was founded by David I. in 1136. It was completed and 
dedicated to the Virgin Mary in 1146. Like its neighbor, Dry- 
burgh Abbey, it was destroyed by Edward IL in his retreat from 
Bannockburn in 1322. Four years after, Robert Bruce gave 
£2,000, equal to £50,000 sterling of the present currency, to re- 
build it. It was again destroyed in 1544, and at the period of 
the Reformation it suffered much from the zeal of the reformers, 
from which it never recovered. The present proprietor is the 
Duke of Bucceleuch, to whom the public are indebted for its care- 
ful preservation. 

14:th. — After an early breakfast we left, by rail, for Penrith, wa 
Carlisle, arriving at about one o'clock. After crossing into Eng- 
land I noticed a marked difference in the general appearance of 
the country along the road. The fields were overgrown with 
bushes and weeds, and showed a want of that care and attention 
which we saw all through Scotland, The difference also extend- 
ed to the houses, barns, and fences. The day was rainy and dis- 
agreeable. 

15lh. — Penrith was soon seen and finished. We went to the 
church and were shown two panes of glass in which were the faces 
of Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, and Cicely Neville. We 
were informed that they liad been transferred to their present 
places from an old church which formerly stood in town. In the 
church-yard is a tomb called the giant's grave, fifteen feet in length. 

* Tales of a Grandfather. 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 39 

Penrith was, for a long time, the residence of Richard III. Near 
to it are many country seats of the nobility and gentry. Only 
a small portion of the walls of the old castle are standing. Pen- 
rith is a very unattractive place, and by no means worth visiting. 
We intended to have gone from here to the English lakes, 
Windermere and Ulswater being near-by ; but as the weather was 
unpropitious we changed our plans, and left at 3:30 p. m. 
for York. The road over which we passed was, I believe, for 
most of the distance, at least, a cross track connecting two main 
lines. We had to change cars three times, and look after our 
luggage, as it could not be booked through. The road ran, for 
the greater part of the way, through a narrow valley. The 
country was line. We passed some quite large towns, one of 
which, in particular, struck us as being very pretty. We arrived 
at 9 p. M., and stopped at the North-eastern Hotel, where we 
had good rooms and a poor supper. 

16M, Sunday. — We went to York Minster in the morning, 
but it was so crowded that we could not get in. The part of 
this enormous edifice which is appropriated for the accommoda- 
tion of worshippers is comparatively small. We then went to 
a small parish church, where we heard an excellent sermon 
from Phil, ii : 13. In the afternoon we went again to York 
Minster, and heard the celebrated organ. The services were 
intoned, i. e., sung ; to me this seemed very inappropriate, and 
particularly the singing of the prayers. The choir, about 
thirty in number, wore white surplices, and the whole of the cer- 
emonies reminded me of an operatic performance. I could hardly 
realize that it was the Sabbath day and that we were in a Chris- 
tian temple. There was no sermon. 

VI th. — Visited the museum grounds, in which are the ruins of 
St. Mary's Abbey, the principal remains being the north wall of 
the nave of the church, in which are eight windows devoid of 
tracery. The present ruins are all that remain of the structure. 
They were rebuilt (a conflagration having destroyed the former 



40 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

one) by Simon de Warwick, then abbot, in 1270, who was twenty 
years in completing the abbey. 

"At the dismantling of the religious houses by Henry VIII., the 
ruthless destructives of that day removed the masonry and wood- 
work of the abbey to construct the king's manor." In 1710 fur- 
ther materials were taken from its walls by William III. to re- 
pair York Castle ; and again in 1705 Queen Anne presented a slice 
to patch up St. Oliva's Church ; and George I. continued the 
work of demolition by granting a license for three years to pull 
down and carry away stone for the repairs of Beverley Minster. 
St. Mary's is described as "a most noble and magnificent mon- 
astery," and in revenues it was one of the richest in the land. 
In the grounds is the Hospitium, anciently used for lodging the 
guests, who were not admissible to the principal apartments of 
the abbey. It is now used for the reception of the antiquities 
belonging to the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, consisting of 
Roman and Saxon remains found in the neighborhood. There 
is also on the same grounds a museum, containing a large collec- 
tion of birds, animals, minerals, and various other things, to- 
gether with the library of the society. At the entrance of the 
grounds are the remains of an old Roman tower, called the 
Multangular Tower, consisting of ten sides, forming nine obtuse 
angles. From here we went to the Cathedral, or York Minster 
Abbey. This was founded in 625, by Edwin, king of North- 
umberland. The south transept was built in 1227 ; the north 
transept in 1269 ; the chapter-house in 1284 to 1300 ; the nave 
was begun in 1291 and completed in 1330 ; the choir was begun 
in 1361, and completed in unison with the piers and arches of 
the great tower in 1446. The great tower was finished during 
the year 1474. The minster was one hundred and eighty years 
in building. The dimensions of this celebrated structure are as 
follows : The extreme length from east to west, 524 feet ; the 
length of the principal transept from north to south, 222 feet ; 
from the west end to the choir door, 261 feet; length of choir^ 
136 feet ; the space behind the altar is 26 feet ; the ladies' chapel 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 41 

is 96 feet ; the height of the vaulting in the nave is 99 feet ; the 
western tower is 196 feet ; the central or lardem tower is 213 
feet. The octagonal chapter-house is 63 feet in diameter. 
This magnificent structure is grand, imposing, and beautiful. T 
believe that it is generally conceded by judges to excel in beauty 
and magnificence most ecclesiastical buildings of the middle ages. 
Of the exterior, the west front excels in splendor, " more however 
for the plenitude of its ornaments than for harmony of design." 
The elevation is divided into three parts, the principal objects 
being the grand entrance and large window which surmounts it. 
The four buttresses which form the lines of division contain nu- 
merous niches, many of which are filled with statues and other 
pieces of sculpture. Above these buttresses rise the two western 
towers. The eastern front is divided by buttresses of unusual 
elegance. The north and south sides are rich in decorations. 
The whole strikes one who has seen but few similar buildings 
with admiration, wonder, and amazement. The plan of the 
Cathedral comprises a nave with side aisles, a western or principal 
transept with aisles, a clioir, also having lateral aisles, and a 
ladies' chapel, now thrown open to the aisles of the choir. The 
two windows of the choir rise to the whole height of the building, 
and projecting from the main line of this part of the cathedral, 
produce a second or eastern transept of small extent. The in- 
terior surpassed the expectations created by the exterior, and is 
rich in columns, arches, tracing, carvings, statuary, mausoleums, 
altars, and various other embellishments, a description of which is 
beyond the power of my pen. An almost innumerable number 
of illustrious persons have been buried in the Cathedral, and it 
abounds in monuments, many of which are beautiful specimens 
of ancient and modern English architecture. Having glanced at 
this venerable and splendid* monument of past munificence, we 
walked around the top of the old wall which enclosed the city, 
supposed to have been built by Edward I. It now forms a 
pleasant promenade. 

18th. — Remained in our rooms most of the day, awaiting 



42 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

letters that we had directed to he forwarded from London, which 
we did not receive. York is a very ancient city, and is claimed 
by some writers to date back as far as nine hundred years before 
Christ. In 150, when the Romans held power, it was the capital 
of Britain, and some of the emperors of Rome lived here in all of 
the splendor and magnificence of the age. Here Constantine was 
born and ruled ; and kings and nobles have had their abode here. 
In the intestine disturbances of the country, York has figured 
prominently. The war of the " Roses," between York and Lan- 
caster, is familiar to all. The city is situated in the midst of an 
extensive plain, on the banks of the Ouse. When the building of 
larger vessels commenced, its commercial prosperity began to 
decline, as the river was not navigable except for small vessels, 
and now its ancient glory has departed, and its population has 
fallen to 43,000. From its dingy houses, narrow and crooked 
streets filled with mud, and its bad water, one is glad to turn his 
back upon it, and, like the " unfortunate" in Flood's "Bridge of 
Sighs," exclaim : "Anywhere, anywhere, out of the" town. 

19^^. — We left in "the first train" for Rippon, arriving at 
12;30 p. M., and lunched ; after which we drove to Studley Royal, 
the scat of Earl de Grey. The grounds are very extensive, and 
ornamented with walks, artificial lakes, statuary, and grottoes, and 
on them grow a great variety of trees and shrubbery from all parts 
of the worldj some of which are of great age, and others rare and 
beautiful, forming altogether many beautifully shaded walks and 
drives. Sade gathered a branch from a cedar of Lebanon, and 
some laurel leaves from a bush more than a century old, for her 
herbarium. After a long walk, we came to the venerable remains 
of Fountain's Abbey, which are on the grounds. This is said to 
have been the most perfect monastic building in England. In 
1132, Thurston, Archbishop of York, granted the site of the 
monastery to some monks who had become disgusted with the 
profligacy of the church, and had resolved to adopt the Cistercian 
order. Eight years after, it was burned down, l5ut was at once 
rebuilt. The foundation of the church was laid in 1204. In the 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 43 

course of time this abbey became one of the wealthiest in Eng- 
land, its possessions extending over a tract of thirty miles It is 
said to have covered ten acres of ground, but only about two are 
now covered with the ruins. Unlike most of the monasteries in 
the kingdom, it suffered no violence, A chronicle says of it : " No 
depredation has been committed on the sacred pile ; time alone 
has brought it to its present state. It has fallen by gentle decay, 
without any violent convulsion. Built in the most elegant style 
of Gothic architecture, its towers and walls are yet standing, the 
roof being gone to ruins." The cloisters are in an almost perfect 
state of preservation, and are about two hundred feet in length, 
by thirty each, in width. They are separated by a row of pillars 
in the centre, branching out in an octagon shape at the top, on 
which the inner part of the arches rest. The walls of the nave, 
transept, and ladies' chapel, are in a good state of preservation. 
The refectory was a large and elegant room, as the ruins attest. 
The kitchen, near-by, is in good preservation ; one of the chim- 
neys, with its fire-place as large as an ordinary sized room, is still 
standing. Farts of the buildings extend over the small river, 
resting upon arches, which are still perfect. The ruins of the 
Lord Abbot's house are only marked by the foundations. This, 
too, was built upon arches, over the waters of the river, which 
became a necessity, in consequence of the narrow valley. Near- 
by are the ruins of an old brewery (the monks, it seemed, drank 
ale) ; an old mill, grinding away as in the days of yore ; and a 
stone bridge across the river, in perfect order, with its half 
Gothic half Roman arches, built at the same time as the 
abbey. The stone used in the buildings was taken from a quarry 
very near-by, the excavations of which gave additional width to 
the valley. The monastery, with all others in England, was 
broken up by Henry VIII. The monks being driven from the 
country, its decay commenced. No description that could be 
written would give any adequate idea of this pile of ancient 
splendor, so beautifully and picturesquely situated in one of the 
most lovely li ttle valleys, shut out from the world by hills, one side 



44 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

of which Is covered with beautiful foliage, and by the rocky cliffs on 
the other. The waters of the tiny river, rippling laughingly over 
its pebbly bed, presenting a scene so vaiied in beauty and gran- 
deur—so lovely in its lights and shadows, as to defy description. 
Such a place seems to separate one from the world, and bring 
him into the immediate presence of his Maker. It seems im- 
possible that any one could dwell here and not feel the presence 
of God. If there were no other revelation given us, this, alone, 
ought to impress us with the existence of a great Creator and 
Governor. I recollect some lines that I wrote twenty years ago, 
and a verse on these works of God might well be added to them : 

" There is no God !" In the dead hour of night 
Go forth when gloom and darkness are abroad ; 
Gaze on those burning lamps of quenchless light 
Which scatter darkness in their onward flight ; 
And fh&re pronounce the words — "There is no God." 

" There is no God ?" Who then unroU'd to view 

Yonder bright scroll, with all its sparkling gems — 
Sun, moon, and stars — and o'er its azure blue 
Bright gleamings of immortal beauty threw ? 

" No God ! " That scroll the very thought condemns. 

*' There is no God!" Behold the lovely earth 
In all its gay and vernal beauty dress'd, 
And ocean's wave, that rolls in joyous mirth ; 
Then tell me was it chance that gave them birth, 
Or He, whom Christians love — whom prophets bless'd ^\ 

'• There is no God ! " Look forth on yon dark cloud ; 
See the wild lightning as it flashes free 
Athwart the gloom that earth and sky enshroud ; 
Hear the dread thunders roar, deep, long and loud — 
Then, say — Without a God, could such things be ? 

"There is no God ?" Wlio gave, when tempests move 

To yon bold eagle with exulting eye, 
An aerie safe, and to the gentle dove 
Amid the forest shades, a home of love, 

K 'twere not He whose dwelHng is on high ? 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 45 

*' There is no God !" Then tell who gave to thee 

Those daring passions — of ambition, love ? 
Thy intellect — thy spirit, wild and free 
As winds that sweep across the boundless sea ? 

Were they by chance, or came they from above ? 

•'There is no God !" 0, say it not again — 
Such blasphemy is dangerous to be told ; 
■ Heaven's vengeance may descend in clouds amain, 

As when proud Pharaoh with his hosts was slain, 
And be avenged upon thy guilty soul. 

Most of the abbots were buried here, as was also the Duke of 
Northumberland. His remains were afterward removed. There 
was a hospitium belonging to the abbey, with a chapel attached, 
the ruins of which are still visible. We remained here until 
quite late, and then drove back to Kippon and took the train for 
Harrowgate, quite a celebrated watering place, some ten miles 
distant, where we spent the night, stopping at the Prospect Hotel, 
a very excellent house. 

20th. — Owing to prior arrangements, we had to proceed, and so 
had but little opportunity of seeing Harrowgate. We were much 
pleased with its general appearance, and desired to remain 
several days. We left at 11 a. m. for Chesterfield, at which 
place we hired a carriage and drove out to Edensor, near the 
entrance to Chatsworth, and stopped at the Chatsworth Hotel, 
a small house, but quite comfortable. After a good sapper, we 
retired, and slept soundly after our fatiguing journey. 

21st. — After breakfast, we walked over to Chatsworth, one 
of the magnificent residences of the Duke of Devonshire. (He has 
three others — Hardwick Hall, about sixteen miles from Chats- 
worth ; one in Ireland, and a third near London.) These, with 
an income of £150,000 per annum, ought to satisfy even a duke. 
He is said to be a very excellent man, and to take more pleasure in 
literary pursuits than in his possessions. 

Chatsworth is an old place. It was among the domains given 
by William the Conqueror to William Peveril, his natural son. 



46 JOUENAL OP A TOUE THEOUGH 

In the reign of Elizabeth it was purchased by Sir W. Cavendish, 
who commenced a mansion-house, which, after his death, was 
finished by his widow, the famous Countess of Shrewsbury. The 
present building was nearly completed by the first Duke of Devon- 
shire, previous to 1706, but a wing was added by the late (sixth) 
Duke. It is composed of four nearly equal sides, with an open 
quadrangular court within. The middle of the court is occupied 
by a marble statue of Orion, seated on the back of a dolphin, 
around which the water of the fountain is playing. The rooms 
are numerous, spacious, and many of them beautifully adorned 
with carving and frescoing. In the building is a chapel, the 
frescoes of which are particularly good. On the walls are 
Christ Healing the Sick, and the Incredulity of Peter, and on the 
ceiling is the Ascension. We were hurried through so fast that 
we had only time to get a glance at the contents of the various 
apartments, and so can give scarcely any description. Parlors, 
drawing-rooms, audience-chambers, dining-room, music-room, 
library, picture gallery, statuary room, and others, were all beau- 
tifully finished, furnished, and filled with exquisite works of art. 
The walls of two rooms were of embossed leather, which looked 
very pretty. In another was a very large table, clock, and several 
other articles to match, all of malachite, which were presented to 
the present Duke by the Emperor of Russia, Portraits of the 
Emperor and his wife hang in the room. The collection of 
statuary was large, and in good taste. I noticed busts of 
Napoleon I., and his father and mother, with Byron and Edward 
Everett. 

The grounds and gardens are the most celebrated in England. 
The grand conservatory is three hundred feet in length by one 
hundred and forty-five in width, and about one acre in extent, in the 
centre of which is a carriage-road. It was erected by the Duke's 
servant and head gardener. Sir .Joseph Paxton, of Crystal Palace 
notoriety. Joseph received a larger salary than the President of 
the United States. He married the daughter of the housekeeper 
of the Duke, by whom he inherited about $100,000. The grounds 



GREAT BRITAIN AM) ON THE CONTINENT. 47 

are laid out with great taste. There is an artificial cascade 
descending from the hills, and a very perfect metal tree, from the 
leaves and branches of which jets of water fly out, making a no 
less curious than beautiful fountain. The old house of Chats- 
worth was for thirteen years the prison of the unfortunate Mary 
Queen of Scots. Hobbs, the philosopher, passed many of his 
days here. The park is about nine miles in circumference, but 
we saw only that part of it which lies between the mansion and 
the village. In it were a great number of deer ; there are said to 
be over five thousand in the park (more than at Studley Koyal), 
The Duke spends very little of his time at Chatsworth (a queer 
taste he must have, said a lady friend, sitting near me). We 
returned to the hotel, partook of a bountiful lunch, and left for 
Chesterfield, where we took the cars for Leamington, a popular 
watering-place, arriving quite late. We stopped at the Regents' 
Hotel, where the charges were high, and the accommodations 
poor. 

22d. — Rained almost all day. I ventured out a short time, and 
visited the pump and bath-rooms, where there is a small swim- 
ming pond. The waters are mineral, "so called." 

23d, Sanday. — We all went to the Baptist church in the morn- 
ing, and heard a very good sermon from the pastor. Text, Isaiah 
Ixiii : 9. May and Sade went to the Church of England in the 
afternoon. 

2i^th. — We had an early breakfast, and started on an excursion 
for Stratford-on-Avon. A part of the drive was very beautiful ; 
the trees were beginning to put on their rich autumnal tint. 
Autumn is always welcome, even though it be sad ; presenting, as 
it does, a union of beauty and decay, so like the hectic glow — 
" that lovely disguise which death puts on, when the cheeks are 
like roses and the eyes are like stars," and life is perishing away. 
Yes, I love the autumn ; the sighing of its blasts, as they sweep 
through the forest, and the rustling of the leaves, as they shiver 
and tremble on the swaying branches, or go whirling and eddying 
through the air and around my path. This is music of which 



48 JOURNAL OE A TOUR THROUGH 

I never tire. The day was lovely, and v^e were almost sorry when 
we stopped in front of the house in which the immortal bard was 
born. It is a quaint old house, with nothing attractive in its 
external or internal appearance. We saw the room in which the 
poet was born ; the Stratford portrait, said to be a good likeness ; 
the museum connected with the house, in which are many things 
associated with the author and his family ; among which are a 
deed of the place to Shakspeare's family : several documents, with 
his father's name attached, and his mark (he could not write) ; 
the date of the deed is 1596 ; a letter from Richard Quigney to 
Shakspeare, asking for a loan of thirty pounds, the composition of 
which is very curious ; the gold signet-ring, with initials ; and 
the model in plaster, of Shakspeare asleep under the crab-tree ; 
and also, a portrait of Garrick and his wife. 

We went to the church in which Shakspeare was buried. It 
is very old, a part of it having been built in the eleventh century. 
In the chancel is a bust of the poet, which was placed there 
seven years after his death. In front of this he and his wife 
and his daughter are buried. There are many old tombstones 
and monuments in the church, and also in the burying-ground. 
The church is situated on the banks of the Avon ; the approach 
to it is through an avenue of lime trees, under the pavements of 
which are vaults, with the names of the families buried cut in 
the stones over which we walked. There were a number of sheep 
in the burying-ground, feeding quietly on the grass growing over 
the graves. 

_ We returned by another route, a part of which was very pretty 
and were delighted with our days journey. 

25M. — Drove out to the ruins of Kenilworth Castle, made 
famous by the web of facts and fiction woven around it by Scott 
in his *' Kenilworth." One of the writers on these ruins says, 
" This striking memorial of a bygone age is traced by antiquaries 
to the Saxon King, Mercia Kennulph. It remained in the royal 
possessions till the time of Henry I., when it was given over by 
him to GeofFi-ey de Clinton, of Norman extraction, ignoble as to 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 49 

his birth, but endowed with talent and energy. He contrived to 
render these of such account to Henry that he lavished upon him 
the highest honors, making him the Royal Treasurer and Cham- 
berlain, and ultimately the Lord Chief- Justice of England. The 
castle was built in 1120, and continued in his family for several 
generations. At the time of the rebellion against Henry II. by 
his son, it was used by him (Henry) for the accommodation of a 
garrison. It was afterward granted by Henry III. to Simon de 
Montford, Earl of Leicester, and his Countess Elenor, in life-rent 
— a gift for which he showed his ingratitude by not only takino- 
up arms against his sovereign, but having appointed a governor 
over it, he converted it into a great rendezvous of those disaffected 
nobles who might be disposed to join him in his insurrection. 
The nobles having been defeated by the King at Eversham, on 
August 4, 1265, and their leader, the ungrateful Simon de Mont- 
ford, slain, it was resorted to by his son, and those in confederacy 
with him, who were able to make their escape from the scene 
of their defeat, and continued to be held by him for six months, 
against all the attempts of the King, and was reduced at last by 
famine and sickness alone." It was the scene of a splendid enter- 
tainment in the time of Edward I. Knights, native and foreign, 
of the highest distinction were present on the occasion. In the 
reign of Edward III. it came into the possession of John of 
Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, by whom it was improved and 
enlarged to a considerable extent, and from him passed to his 
son, Henry IV. It continued to be the property of the Crown, 
until it was given by Elizabeth to her haughty but unprincipled 
favorite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, by whom it was 
enlarged and improved, and, it afterward became the scene of one 
of the most splendid entertainments to royalty, in the person of 
Queen Elizabeth, of which the annals of bygone times can boast. 
The entertainment commenced on the 18th of July, 1575, and 
continued for seventeen days. Those who desire particular infor- 
mation regarding the festival are referred to " Kenil worth," by 
Scott, where it was woven in with the plot of the romance in the 

3 



50 JOUBNAL OF A TOUK THEOUGH 

most skilful and artistic manner. By the Earl of Leicester it 
was bequeathed to his brother Ambrose, Earl of Warwick, for 
life, and after various vicissitudes, it again became the property of 
the crown, and ultimately fell into the hands of Cromwell, 
that ruthless iconoclast, who gave the whole manor to his offi- 
cers, by whom the castle was recklessly dismantled, and in 
the mingled spirit of vandalism and mammon worship, its 
very materials were disposed of for money. It was granted by 
Charles II. on his restoration to Hyde, who became Earl of 
Kochester. The Earl of Essex was its next possessor, and finally 
it was given to Thomas Villiers, afterward Earl of Clarendon, 
to whose family it still belongs. Although a ruin in the full 
sense of the word, it is one of the most striking and imposing 
character. The remains of the once magnificent place are the 
gate-house erected by the Earl of Leicester, in a room of which 
is a very elegant Chimney-piece. The lower part being of alabaster, 
is richly gilt, and bears the inscription " Droit et Loyal," with 
the initials R. L. on each side, the interspace being occupied by 
the Leicester arms and cognizance, encircled by the garter; 
Csesar's tower, the strongest and most ancient part of the edifice, 
the walls of which are in some places sixteen feet in thickness ; 
the kitchen, adjoining Caesar's tower, and although scarcely a 
fragment of the walls remain, their character may be traced by 
an oven and other arrangements of a culinary nature. The 
strong tower is part of what is known as Lancaster's buildings, 
connected with which is the great hall, ninety feet by forty-five, 
and is by far the most interesting part of the ruin. Some of the 
windows and fire-places are in a good state of preservation. Next 
comes the white hall, twenty-five by fifty feet, the outlines of 
which are very imperfectly traced. Leicester's buildings, erected 
in 1571, by the Earl of Leicester, as appears from a tablet attached 
to a part of the wall, which form an interesting part of the ruins, 
are in a much better state of preservation than any other. The 
outer walls of the castle encompass an area of seven acres, connected 
with which are several towers. The works of man have crum- 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 51 

bled and fallen, but those of the *' (^reat Architect" remain. The 
leaves of the forests are as green, the flowers bloom as brightly, 
and the brook murmurs as sweetly now as when the magnificent 
structure stood forth in all its glory. It was the day of the 
"fair" — one in which the laboring classes meet in the towns and 
villages, to hire themselves to farmers and others for the year. We 
saw large numbers of this class dressed in their holiday suits, at 
each little place we passed. Our drive out and back was pleasant, 
and we all enjoyed it ; it was a birth-day treat to me. To-day 
I am just ; but never mind, I will not speak of that now. 

On our return we stopped at Guy's Cliff, the retreat of the 
famous Earl Guy, and where he and his wife are supposed to be 
interred. We were permitted to go through the house, which 
is owned and occupied by a nobleman whose name I do not 
recollect. There were some good paintings, and one most horrible 
to look upon, called the "Cave of Despair," which was kept shut 
in a panel of the wall. There is a strange and interesting story 
connected with Earl Guy, and this adds to the interest of the 
place, 

2Qth. — To-day we visited Warwick Castle, the magnificent resi- 
dence of the Earl of Warwick. I will quote from the same 
writer: "The date of the original erection of this castle is un- 
known, but it was enlarged during the reign of the Roman Con- 
queror by his command to Turchile, the Earl of Warwick, 
Henry III. appointed it as the place of rendezvous of his army 
previous to the attack on Kenil worth Castle, immediately after 
the terrible battle of Eversham. In 1572, Queen Elizabeth passed 
two days at the castle, on her way to Kenilworth, and one or two 
on her return. This was three years anterior to the seventeen 
days' entertainment at Kenilworth. In 1695, William III. was 
entertained at the castle by Faulke Grenville, Lord Brook, son of 
the valiant officer who was killed at the siege of Litchfield. The 
approach to the castle is by a winding road cut very deep in the 
solid rock, three hundred feet in length, and is so arranged that 
no part of the castle can be seen until the whole stupendous 



52 JOTTENAL OF A TOUK THROUGH 

edifice stands in its grand dignity before the sight, with its three 
stupendous towers and embattled walls. Guy's tower is one 
hundred and thirty feet high ; the view from its summit is grand. 
Csesar's tower, one hundred and forty-seven feet high, is not open 
to the public ; this is believed to be the oldest part of the edifice. 
Beneath it is the dark and gloomy dungeon. The Bear tower, 
never finished ; the Clock and Gate towers ; the Mount, or 
Keep, with Gothic gateway, battlement and tower, all beautifully 
shaded by luxuriant foliage, present a scene of beauty and 
grandeur rarely met with. 

The interior is remarkable for splendor and elegance. The 
principal suite of apartments extend three hundred and thirty-three 
feet in a straight line, and are adorned with magnificent works of 
art and a large collection of ancient armor and weapons of war. 
1 was much interested in two revolving guns and one pistol, 
varying in the main but little from Colt's patent ; these mu^t have 
been at least a century old. I also saw a breech-loading gun 
made upward of a hundred years ago. '' There is nothing new 
under the sun." The rooms consist of the banquet hall, sixty- 
two by forty feet, and thirty-five feet high to the centre of the 
ceiling ; the floor is of red and white marble, finished at Venice, 
expressly for the hall. In this room are many relics of the past, 
as well as some more modern works of art. The great dining- 
room in which are a number of busts, portraits, and a magnificent 
buffet of carved oak, surpassing in beauty of design and execution, 
it is said, any thing of the kind in the world. The red drawing- 
room, the first range of state apartments seen from the hall, con- 
tains some very fine paintings by Paul Rembrandt, Vandyke, Leo- 
nardo da Vinci, Eeubens, and Paolo Veronese, some very handsome 
urns, a beautiful table of mixed stone work, formerly in the 
possession of the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette, a buhl cabinet, 
ornaments in crystal and bronze, with various other articles.- 
The cedar drawing-room is forty-seven by twenty-five feet, the 
furniture of which is antique and in perfect harmony with the 
splendid room. It contains portraits of Edward Wortley Mon- 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 53 

tague, the Princess de Santa Croce, Charles I., Duke of Alva, 
Marquis of Montrose, and numerous other paintings by Guido 
and other artists of eminence ; also various pieces of statuary. 
The gilt drawing-room is exceedingly beautiful ; the delicate 
green and gilding form a tasteful contrast to the cedar of the 
adjoining drawing-room. The furniture is gilt covered with blue, 
and the walls are adorned with many superb paintings. Concealed 
behind the wainscot of this apartment is a private stair-case. The 
state bed-room is hung with tapestry in excellent preservation, 
although made two hundred and- fifty years ago, in Brussels. 
The bed, in its crimson drapery, once belonged to Queen Anne. 
George III. presented it to the family. Over the mantle-piece 
is a full-length portrait of Queen Anne. The boudoir surpasses 
any of the other rooms in stately elegance and classic refinement. 
Its walls are hung with paintings of rare beauty and worth, by 
the most celebrated artists. Among the portraits are those of 
Martin Luther, Henry IV. of France, Anne Boleyn, and Henry 
VIII. We saw also in it a very beautiful clock, with pink 
enamel on silver to mark each of the twelve hours, representing 
the principal events in our Saviour's life. The rare and valuable 
collection of gems that embellish this apartment would repay one 
for a long journey to see it. The compass room contains numerous 
paintings. Its principal window of stained glass was brought 
from Flanders by the grandfather of the present Earl, and is very 
handsome. The chapel passages have also many paintings, and 
other articles of interest. The chapel is of chaste simplicity, and 
is well proportioned. The armory gallery is cut out of the 
massive walls of the castle, and is filled with ancient armor, 
bronzes, busts, and other articles. The British armory contains 
a rare collection of British armor. The billiard-room is adorned 
with a number of paintings, and a table of superb workmanship. 
We were not admitted into the library or to any of the family 
rooms. After going through the house, we walked over the 
grounds, ascending many steps to the top of the old wall. We 
went to the green-house, in which is the celebrated Warwick 



64 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

vase- After ascending one of the towers, we returned to our 
hotel, enchanted with what we had seen. Leamington has a 
population of about sixteen thousand, and is an exceedingly 
pleasant place. Its public grounds and gardens are very attractive. 
In them we saw a number of ladies practising archery, apparently 
a very agreeable recreation, and one that more of our American 
ladies would be benefited by following, as it would give them out- 
door exercise. We left Leamington in the afternoon for Oxford ; 
arrived in about one hour, and stopped at the Randolph Hotel, a 
new house, pleasantly located and well kept. On our arrival 
there, we met with an English gentleman and lady who were 
awaiting the train, and as we vacated our compartment they 
entered. After doing so the lady turned to us and said, very 
politely, *' As you are strangers, I presume, and as this Oxford is 
an awkward place, allow me to send you my footman, who will 
be of service in showing you the hotel, and also in giving you 
any information you may require ; and I beg you will not hesitate, 
as he is at your entire disposal for the afternoon." "We were 
rather astonished than otherwise at such courtesy, as we had heard 
so much said of the exclusiveness of the Eno-lish. 

21th. — From the windows of our rooms we could see the monu- 
ments to Latimer, Cranmef and Ridley, reminding us of what it 
cost to be a Christian during the age in which they lived. During 
the day we visited Christ Church College, Radcliff's Library, 
from the top of which we had a fine view of the city; Bodleian 
Library, founded by Sir Thomas Bodley, in the sixteenth century, 
containing the most valuable collection of books and manuscripts 
in England. In the picture gallery connected with it is a large 
number of portraits of much historical interest. We also saw in 
it a collection of very old books and manuscripts, and the auto- 
graphs of Milton, Pope, and Addison, the latter being a part of 
one of his poems, in which I read a line with these words : 

' ' So high the deathless mtise exalts her theme ." 
We also saw the autograph of King Alfred, dated 880, and a 



GEE AT BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 55 

chair made of the wood of Sir Frances Drake's ship, the Pelican, 
the first vessel that ever made a vojage aronnd the world. The 
chair was made in 1682. We could have spent days both 
pleasantly and profitably in these rooms, but as our time was 
limited we had to pass on. Our next place was the Ashmolean 
Museum of Antiquities, but as none of us were antiquarians, we 
were not particularly interested in anything we saw, and hurried 
out and on to the University Galleries, where we saw the 
Pomfret statues, a large collection of models, and some drawings 
by Michael Angelo and Raphael, and an extensive collection of 
paintings, which, in consequence of our fatigue, we did not 
examine. 

2Sth. — We vi.'^ited the grounds of New College, which is, I 
believe, among the oldest in Oxford. These grounds are ex- 
tensive and neat, with fine shade trees and lawns bordered 
with flowers. The whole is enclosed by a wall, one side of which 
is part of the original wall that surrounded the town. We went 
into the chapel belonging to this college, which is very rich and 
tastefully finished ; some of the windows are of very old stained 
glass brouglit from Flanders. In the chapel is the crosier, or 
bishop's staff, belonging to its founder, William of Wykeham, 
Bishop of Winchester and Lord High Chancellor in the reign of 
Edward HI. This New College was commenced in 1380, and 
completed in 1387. The population of Oxford is about thirty 
thousand. It has nineteen colleges, and is dependent mainly upon 
them for its business. We hardly saw enough of the place to form 
an opinion of it, but were not favorably impressed with its 
general appearance. We left at two o'clock for London, and 
arrived in two hours. Stopped at the Royal Cambridge Hotel, 
12 A St. George street, where we had very comfortable apart- 
ments. 

29iA. — Spent most of the day in driving around to the hotels 
in search of some friends we expected to meet here, and arrang- 
ing some business with my bankers. 

30<A, Sunday. — Went to hear the celebrated Mr. Spurgeon ; 



56 JOUBNAL OF A TOUB THEOUGH 

we found a large crowd at the door awaiting the hour of opening, 
A gentleman, perceiving, I suppose, that we were strangers, 
invited us in through the gate by which the holders of seats 
enter. By this courtesy we were able to get in, and be com- 
fortably seated before the doors were opened. The building can 
accommodate between five and six thousand, and is always 
crowded to its full capacity, every inch of the space in the aisles 
being occupied by persons standing, and hundreds go away, not 
being able to get in. After prayer and singing, the distinguished 
minister read the 51st Psalm, commenting upon it as he read. 
A paraphrase of the same Psalm was then sung by the congre- 
gation, the choir leading, producing an effect, at least upon my- 
self, more deeply solemn than any other music I had ever listened 
to. After the singing ceased, another prayer was offered up? 
and the preacher read his text — 51st Psalm, 14th verse, from 
which he delivered a most eloquent and impressive sermon. 
His manner is earnest, solemn, and dignified. You lose sight of 
the man, his manner, and indeed everything except the subject ; 
all is absorbed. in that, and you leave the church with the im- 
pression that the speaker feels there is a great responsibility 
resting upon him and is endeavoring to do his duty faithfully. I 
was most agreeably disappointed, as I had been somewhat pre- 
judiced against Mr. Spurgeon. 



GBEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 57 



OCTOBER. 

Ist. — Visited the Legation, and obtained a passport ; walked 
through some of the streets ; examined some breach-loading guns 
at Purdy's and Lancaster's ; saw a new patent at Purdy's, which 
I much admired. 

2d. — Visited AVestminster Abbey. A description of this edifice, 
and the historical events connected with it, would fill a large volume. 
I will only say, in reference to it, that it is entirely unlike any other 
church I have ever seen, and surpasses all others, in variety at 
least. It is in the form of a cross ; is four hundred feet long 
by two hundred wide ; was founded by Serbert, King of the 
East Saxons, a. d. 610 ; and having been destroyed by the Danes, 
was rebuilt by King Edgar in 958. Edward the Confessor en- 
larged and greatly improved it in 1245. It was much injured 
during the reign of Henry VIII., by the Puritans, who 
used it as barracks. It was repaired and reconstructed by Sir 
Christopher Wren. In passing through it one feels as if he was 
in a show-room of statuary, rather than the house of God. It 
seems like sacrilege that in a house dedicated to God, the 
orator, the actor, the warrior, should each be exhibited in the 
appropriate attitude of his calling, " in self-glory." Almost 
every monument erected in the last two centuries keeps the be- 
holder's associations on earth instead of elevating them to 
heaven, '*the sentiment of the best of them being the glorification 
of the individual." The Poet's Corner, through which we passed 
on entering, contains a great number and variety of monuments to 
the poets of Great Britain. Conspicuous among these are the 
names of Milton, Sou they, Campbell, Shakspeare, Dryden, Prior, 
Addison, Spenser, and Thompson. The numerous chapels con- 
tain almost an endless number of tombs and monuments of his- 

3* 



68 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

torical interest. We all beheld with interest the magnificent tomb 
to the memory of the erring but unfortunate Mary Queen of 
Scots, in the Chapel of Henry VII. In the same chapel is 
also a tomb to her more fortunate rival, Queen Elizabeth. In 
the centre of the abbey, and almost surrounded by the other 
chapels, is that of Edward the Confessor, which is the oldest, 
and, perhaps, most interesting of them all. In the corner of the 
chapel is the mosaic shrine of the Confessor. Here are the two 
coronation chairs used at the coronation of the sovereigns of 
Great Britain. 

From here we went to St. Paul's, said to be the noblest build- 
in o- in the classic style in Great Britain. It was erected under 
the direction of Sir Christopher Wren, upon the site of a cathe- 
dral built some hundreds of years before, and destroyed by the 
great fire in 1 666. It is in the form of a cross, five hundred and 
fourteen feet long by two hundred and eighty-seven wide, and cost 
^800,000 ; it was built from the proceeds of a special tax levied 
upon coal brought into London during the time of its erection. 
Wellincyton and Nelson are both buried under St. Paul's. There 
are also monuments to Bishop Heber, Dr. Johnson, Sir John 
Moore, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and John Howard. The great bell 
in the tower weighs four and a half tons, and is ten feet in dia- 
meter. It strikes the hours, but is only tolled on the occasion 
of a death in the royal family. We did not go up into the dome. 

We next went to the Tower of London, with its six outer and 
twelve inner towers, covering about twelve acres of ground, once 
the magnificent abode of kings and queens ; while in many of its 
gloomy rooms, and dark and damp cells, lingered so many of the 
best and fairest of England's sons and daughters, as well as some 
of the worst ; the fate of whom, if history had not revealed it, 
mio-ht be guessed by the instruments of torture and executicn which 
yet remain. The names and devices of many of the prisoners 
are still to be seen on the walls, into which they were cut cen- 
turies ago. The various apartments are filled with arms and 
armor of almost every age and description. Some of these are 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 69 

very curious. Most prominent is the room of the horse armory, 
containing equestrian statues, clad in full armor (horse and rider) 
used from the thirteenth to the sixteenth centuries, much of which 
belonged to, and was worn by distinguished personages. Devices 
of serpents, birds, flowers, and other things, are made by the 
arrangement of the arms against the ceilings and walls. There 
is a neat and plain little chapel in it. The jewel room is one of 
much interest ; in it are the crowns of the present Queen, costing, 
I beheve, about $500,000 ; Edward's crown ; that of the Prince 
of Wales; the ancient Queen's crown ; diadems of immense value, 
and some other articles. We were much pleased with our visit to 
the tower, regretting only that we were hurried through so abruptly. 
We returned to the hotel very tired. 

3d. — Went to the National Gallery of Pictures, and saw many 
very rare paintings. The following schools are represented : 
Italian, Spanish, Flemish, French, and others, from the thirteenth 
to the nineteenth centuries. One of the pictures, which pleased 
us much, was "The Virgin and two Angels watching over 
the dead body of Christ," by Francia, who died in 1517. 
The Turner paintings and drawings, bequeathed to the nation, 
occupy a hall by themselves ; they are one hundred and twenty 
in number, and many of them large. 

We next went to the British Museum, which, in size and mag- 
nificence, is striking and wonderful. The building alone cost over 
one million of pounds sterling. The zoological collection occu- 
pies ten large saloons ; minerals and fosils, six ; botanical, two ; 
antiquities, eight ; making twenty-six large rooms on the upper 
floor. These rooms contain fine collections. The only rooms to 
which we had access on the ground floor were the Greville 
library, manuscript saloon, Royal Library and lobbies. The read- 
ing-room is circular, about one hundred and forty feet in diame- 
ter, with a dome roof one hundred and six feet high, unsupported 
by pillars. The library contains seven hundred thousand volumes. 
We saw in the library the manuscripts and autographs of many 
of the distinguished men and women of the past, among which 



60 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

were those of Tasso, Rousseau, Sir Thomas Moore, Milton, Vol- 
taire, Addison, Dryden, Ben Jonson, Shakspeare, Pope, Robert 
Bruce, Mar}' Queen of Scots, Lady Jane Grey, Sir Walter Raleigh, 
Melancthon, Luther, Calvin, Knox, Sir Walter Scott, Washing- 
ton, together with many of the kings and queens of England, 
France, Spain and Portugal, and many other persons of renown. 
We also saw the original Magna Charta, and various other things 
of great interest. In going through these extensive apartments, 
one can hardly realize that the world contains such a variety of 
birds, beasts, fishes, insects, and fossils, as are seen here. 

In the evening we all went to Madame Tussaud's gallery of 
wax figures of distinguished individuals (life-size), dressed in 
accordance with their professions and the age in which they lived. 
The life-like appearance of these figures is truly wonderful. It is 
almost impossible to distinguish them from the living crowds moving 
about among them. One of the most curious figures is that of St. 
Araaranthe, reclining on a lounge, as if asleep ; by some concealed 
machinery, her bosom is made to rise and fall, as if by respira- 
tion ; and so perfect is the deception, that had it been placed any 
where else, no one would have been able to detect it. 

^^th. — I walked through some of the principal streets, and came 
home and to the conclusion that the thoroughfares of London are 
decidedly irregular and crooked. In the evening I went again to 
Madame Tussaud's gallery, to see the golden chamber, containing 
many relics of the Emperor Napoleon I., among which were pic- 
tures, costumes, busts, the Emperor's carriage, camp- equipage, &c. 
I also went into the chamber of horrors, containing figures of mur- 
derers, a model of the Bastile, and the original knife and lunette, 
the identical instrument that decapitated twenty-two thousand 
persons ! 

^tfi. — After an early breakfast we left by railway for the 
Crystal Palace, Sydenham ; and what shall I say of this mammoth 
edifice ? The main building is, without the wings, sixteen hun- 
dred feet long by three hundred wide, with a tower at each end 
three hundred feet high ; when the wings are added, and the tier 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 61 

of galleries above, which extends around the entire buildinj>-, the 
distance travelled in going through all is upward of two miles in 
extent. The grounds are in keeping with the palace, and beauti- 
fully laid out in lawns, groves, and fountains. In the nave 
known as the ilne arts courts 'dvo, fac similies of the actual remains 
of the architecture and sculpture of the successive ages and schools, 
intended to give the untravelled visitor the same advantages which 
have been hitherto the privilege of the traveller only. These 
courts are rich with the art of heathen Egypt, Assyria, Greece, 
and Rome, Mahometandom, Spain and Byzantium, Christian 
Italy, France and England. There are in the building a great 
many works of art and industry, and one is thoroughly tired out 
before he gets half through. 

6M. — Visited the House of Parliament, and was much pleased 
with the whole of the interior arrangements, and particularly so 
with the many beautiful historic paintings on the walls. The 
rooms are lighted from the ceilings with gas, through stained 
glass. The effect is said to be fine. This is one of the most 
magnificent buildings ever erected continuously in Europe, and 
probably the largest Gothic edifice in the world. It covers an 
area of nearly eight acres, has one hundred stair-cases, eleven 
hundred apartments, and more than two miles of corridors. It 
is warmed through sixteen miles of steam pipes, and the cost of 
the gas for one year is $17,500. The cost of the building was 
upward of two millions sterling. The first stone was laid April 
27, 1840. 

From here we went through St. James Park, and visited the 
Queen's mews (or stables). We saw only a part of her stud of 
horses (which number one hundred). The twelve horses of state 
were there. They are of a rich cream -color. There were also 
twelve jet blacks, used for ordinary state occasions. Among 
numerous equipages were two new carriages, and another of 
an earlier age, enormously large, richly carved, and clumsy- 
looking. Little Howie, after giving it a thorough examination, 
remarked that " they had devoted more to the outside than the in." 



62 JOUENAL OP A TOUE THEOUGH 

1th, Sunday. — Went again to hear Mr. Spurgeon, and was 
as much pleased with him as before. His text was from Hebrews 
x: 15-18. His manner is easy and graceful ; he fills the enor- 
mous room without any apparent effort ; his language is plain, 
but forcible and impressive. He is an orator, and his own 
earnest feelings are thrown into his sermons. 

Sth. — We drove through Hyde Park, and were much disap- 
pointed, there being nothing attractive about it. The grounds 
are not well kept ; the grass was high and uneven, and every- 
thing bore evidence of neglect. We went next to Kensington 
Gardens, which are laid out with much taste, and are very pretty. 
From here we drove to Regent's Park, about five hundred acres 
in extent. We spent most of our time here in the zoological 
gardens, which contain, probably, a larger collection of birds, 
animals and reptiles, than can be found at any other place in 
the world. Everything pertaining to the arrangements is as 
perfect as can be made, 

Wi. — Called at my bankers, walked through some of the busi- 
ness streets, and returned to my hotel, quite fatigued. 

lO^/i. — We made a delightful excursion to Hampton Court 
Palace, three quarters of an hour from Waterloo station by 
railway. Henry VHI., says a writer, "with a narrow, selfish 
sensuality, snatched its courts and gardens from Cardinal Wolsey, 
its founder, and the better to herd undisturbedly, like Nebuchad- 
nezzar among the beasts of the field, chased the people from the 
country for miles around." It is now open to the public. There 
have been various additions made since Wolsey's day. The 
buildings are of red brick, with nothing very striking about the 
exterior. We went through thirty- three rooms, all on the same 
floor. The walls of some of these apartments were covered with 
hanging tapestries, representing various subjects, mostly scriptural ; 
these were very large, extending from the ceiling to the floor, 
and were beautifully worked. There are one thousand and 
ninety-three paintings hung around the walls, some of large size, 
among which are the celebrated cartoons of Kaphael. la 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 63 

some of the rooms are the beds and other furniture of former 
kings and queens. Many of the windows are of stained glass. 
The pedigrees of the six wives of Henry VIII. are set forth in 
alternate windows, Katharine of Arragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane 
Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catharine Howard, and Katharine 
Parr, all of whom descended from Edward I. 

The grounds and gardens are very extensive, and although 
lacking the diversity of hills, being entirely level, are exceedingly 
beautiful. Broad gravelled walks, numerous flower-plats, fine 
lawns, fountains, and canals, with long avenues in the distance, 
shaded with fine old trees, make a picture beautiful to look upon, 
and long to be remembered. We saw the old grape-vine, which 
has been growing for ninety years ; it is covered with glass, and 
bears about two thousand bunches of grapes every year. We 
also went through the maze, or labyrnth, an enclosure with a 
large number of narrow and very crooked walks, surrounded on 
each side, being separated from each other by high hedges, with 
one path only leading to the centre, which is the point that all 
aim to reach, but many fail to do so, although the enclosure is 
very small, such are the windings and crooks and various inter- 
sections of the path. The grounds belonging to the palace com- 
prise sixteen parks. After partaking of a good lunch at the 
" G-rayhound Inn," we drove through Bushie Park, one of the 
best of the number, and returned to the station, delighted with 
our day's work. 

llth. — Rested. l'2th. — Went out by rail to Windsor Castle, 
and passed through the state apartments in the usual hurried 
manner (the servants showing persons through such places allow 
them but little time to h)ok). There are twelve apartments. 
The Queen's audience chamber, with ceilings beautifully frescoed 
by Verrio, and walls decorated with fine specimens of Gobelin 
tapestry, representing a part of the hisCory of Esther and Mordecai. 
In this room are three portraits, one of which is Mary 
Queen of Scots. The Vandyke room (formerly the ball-room) 
contains a number of his portraits ; conspicuous among which is 



64 JOUENAL OF A TOTJE THEOUGH 

the ubiquitous Charles I. on horseback. (We have seen so many 
of his portraits that to go through a gallery and not see one would 
be like taking a breakfast without coffee.) There are twenty- 
nine pictures in this room, sixteen of which are of Charles I, and 
his family. The Queen's state drawing-room, or Zuccarili room, 
as it is sometimes called in consequence of its containing paintings 
by that artist, has some good pictures. The Finding of Moses, 
the Meeting of Isaac and Rebecca, Jacob Watering the Flock, 
portraits of George I., II., and III. are among them. There is 
also a large table of solid silver in the room. The ante-Thames 
room contains numerous paintings by West, the American artist. 
The Reubens room contains many paintings by this distinguished 
artist, which we had not time to examine. The state ante-room, 
the-ceiling of which is frescoed by Verrio, has over the fire-place, 
in stained glass, a portrait of George III. in his coronation robes, 
from a picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

The Waterloo chamber, described as " a splendid Elizabethan 
apartment of considerable architectural beauty," contains various 
portraits by Sir Thomas Lawrence and others, numbering about 
forty, among which, of course, is the Duke of Wellington. The 
presence chamber, or grand reception-room, is thirty-four by 
ninety feet, and thirty-three feet high. The style of architecture 
is that of Louis XIV., with a great profusion of carving and 
gilding. The walls are hung with tapestry representing the 
history of the Golden Fleece, in six separate parts, three on each 
side ; at the end of the room are two small vases of much beauty, 
and a very large one of malachite, presented by the Emperor of 
Russia. St. George's hall (this is the great banqueting-room) 
is two hundred feet long by thirty-four wide, and thirty-two high. 
It comprises the original hall and private chapel. The ceiling is 
decorated with the armorial bearings of the Knights of the Garter, 
from the institution of the order down to the present time. The 
walls on one side are adorned with the portraits of the various 
sovereigns from James I. to George IV. The green chamber 
contains ancient armor and arms, the busts of Marlborough and 



GKEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 65 

Wellington ; also, one of Nelson, standing on a portion of the 
mast of the Victory. Two chairs, one made from the oak of 
Alloway Kirk (referred to in Burns' " Tarn O'Shanter"), the other 
from an oak which grew on the field of Waterloo. In the Queen's 
presence-chamber, the ceiling by Verrio represents Catharine, 
Queen of Charles II., supported by Religion, Prudence, Fortitude, 
and other virtues, in attendance. The walls are hung with tapestry ; 
subject, a continuation of the history of Esther. There are alFO 
some portraits in this room. Owing to repairs being made, we 
could not see the grand staircase and grand vestibule. We went 
up on the battlements of the Grand Tower, from Avhich we had 
a fine view, seeing, among other objects of interest, the spire of 
Stokes Poges Chapel. It was there that Grey wrote his Elegy. 
We did not go through the private apartments of the Queen, 
having neglected to procure an order in London. After descending 
from the tower, we went to St. George's Chapel, in which are some 
objects of much interest. The oak carvings in the choir are very fine. 
This part of the chapel is appropriated to the celebration of Divine 
worship, and the installing of the Knights of the Garter. The 
banners of the knights hang over their respective stalls, and seem 
entirely inappropriate to the place. The stalls of the knights (or 
what we term pews), are ranged on each side of the choir, and 
those of the sovereigns and princes of blood-royal under the 
organ-gallery ; foreign potentates who are members of the order 
are next in succession. The stained glass windows of the choir 
contain the arms of the knights. The entrance to the royal vault 
is at the foot of the steps leading to the altar, and is paved over. 
Charles I., Henry VIII., and Jane Seymour are deposited in it. 
Other sovereigns, and various other persons of distinction are 
buried in the chapel; especially to be remarked is the beauti- 
ful monument to the Princess Charlotte of Wales, daughter of 
George IV., and wife of Leopold, King of the Belgians. There 
are various small chapels, or chantries, in which persons are interred. 
The ceilings are of considerable height, and are particularly chaste 
in their style and finish. The architecture is of the style called 



6Q JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

perpendicular, extremely llglit and elegant in proportion. A 
want of time prevented us from visiting Frogmore House, Magna 
Charta Island, in the centre of the Thames, where King John of 
England signed Magna Charta, June 25th, 1215, and Virginia 
Water, a place of much beauty, and well worth visiting. After a 
very ordinaiy lunch at the "White Hart Inn," we left, reaching 
London quite late. 

13^A.-^ After breakfast we drove to the Botanical Gardens, and 
were much disappointed in them. The variety of plants and 
flowers was smaller than we expected to have seen, and the 
grounds by no means prettily laid out. As there was not much 
to see, we remained here only a short time, and went again to the 
Zoological Gardens ; having ample time, we made a more thor- 
ough examination of the occupants than we did on our first visit. 
Among them was a pair of young ourang-ou tangs, recently arrived, 
with which we were much amused. They suffered much from the 
cold, although the day was mild, and when the keeper would pull 
the blanket from them with which they were covered, they mani- 
fested much displeasure, threatening to strike him, and also to 
bite, and would immediately seize the blanket, pull it entirely over 
them, even to the covering of their heads. They acted very much 
like children, and were very affectionate, embracing each other, 
as if desirous not to be separated. Little Howie had several rides 
on the camel and elephant, which he enjoyed exceedingly after the 
first feelings of fear had passed. The day was delightfully spent. 
We returned by the Wellington Nursery, where Sade picked a 
rose to be placed with her collection of flowers. 

14:th, Su7iday. — In the morning we all went to John street 
Chapel, to hear the Hon. and Rev. Baptist Noel, a distinguished 
writer, but by no means a pleasant speaker. His voice is now 
weak, and his style of the conversational order. 

Owing to indisposition, I had to leave the church, and heard 
only a part of the sermon. None of us went out in the after- 
noon. 

loth. — Went to my bankers, Messrs. Brown, Shipley & Co., 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 67 

and arranged for my letters of credit, and attended to some other 
business, Howie accompanying me. 

16^^. — We had made arrangements to go down the Thames in 
a steamer, to-day, but at 10 o'clock we had to light the gas in our 
parlor, so dark had it become from the denseness of the fog. We 
missed a view of London from the Thames, but saw the perfection 
of a "London fog." We did some shopping and packed our 
trunks for another start. And what shall I say of London, with 
its smoky atmosphere, dingy houses, crooked streets, and its three 
millions of human beings, among whom there is more wealth, 
more poverty, more splendor, more misery, more virtue, and more 
vice, than can be found on the same extent of territory, anywhere 
else on the globe. It is a world in itself. 

\ltJi. — We had a very early breakfast, and at 7:25 a. m. were 
comfortably seated in a luxurious railway carriage for Paris, via 
Dover and Calais. The road to Dover was smooth, and we went 
over it at a fearful speed. The passage across the channel occu- 
pied two and a half hours, and was very unpleasant; the boat 
was small with poor accommodations. Nearly all on board were 
sick. In consequence of head winds we were behind time? 
and on our .arrival at Calais, found that the train had left. 
We had to wait an hour and leave on a slovv train. After a very 
tedious ride, we reached Paris at 8 o'clock p. m., and, thanks to 
the politeness of the customs officer, our baggage was allowed to pass 
without examination, and we went directly on to the Grande 
Hotel, where we met our friends, Mr. and Mrs. W. I. T,, who 
gave us a hearty welcome, and made us feel quite at home. 

IHth. — The day was rainy and unpleasant, which kept us in. 

19^/1 — Prefering a more quiet place than the Grande Hotel, 
we spent most of the day in looking for suitable apartments, but 
found none. Called on Mr. G. P. B., an old and esteemed 
friend, after which I went to the tailor's, and ordered some 
clothing. 

20th. — -Sade and myself went out in search of apartments ; I took 
her along as interpreter, as I could not speak French. Found 



68 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

rooms at the Hotel Bristol, Place Veiidome, and removed there in 
tlie afternoon. 

21st, Sunday. — Attended services at the English Congre- 
gational Chapel ; was not pleased with the sermon. Remained 
in during the afternoon. 

22d. — Day rainy and unpleasant. Nothing done. 

23d. — We found our quarters very noisy, as the roonis were 
in that part of the building which fronts on the Rue 8t. Honore, 
and removed to the Hotel Mirabeau; on the Rue de la Paix, 
where we had a convenient suite of rooms. Went with May and 
Sade to the Compagnie des Indes, to look at India shawls. Among 
others we saw a superb one for the Exposition, and after a 
"critical examination" of the stock, and an animated discussion 

in French as to quality, price, &c., we left minus , but ladies. 

never wish prices mentioned. 

25^^.-— Howie and I had a drive across the river, he 
going as interpreter, as I cannot speak French, while he does 
as fluently as he can English. On our return we passed through 
the Champs Elysees to the Arc de Triomph, which we ascended, 
and had a magnificent view of Paris, with its numerous wide 
and beautiful boulevards, parks, and avenues, presenting a 
panorama for beauty and magnificence unsurpassed by any other 
city in the world. We returned to our hotel. The Champs 
Elysees is a broad avenue about one mile in length, near the 
middle of which is a large circular space, with six lateral 
fountains. The sidewalks are twelve feet -wide, all shaded by 
beautiful trees. At one end is the Place de la Concord and at 
the other the Arc de Triomph. This is a favorite resort for all 
classes ; on a pleasant afternoon it presents a gay and lively 
appearance. Howie is very fond of it, as here every afternoon 
are to be seen a number of guignol, or Punch and Judies. 

2Qth.: — May, Sade, and myself went to the Galleries and 
Museums of the Louvre. The collection of paintings here is too 
large to particularize, and I must pass over them all. At some 
future period, when we have more time, I hope to visit it again, 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 69 

and may then mention some of them. The various museums 
are very extensive, and contain an endless variety of things curious, 
ancient and modern. It would require months to go through 
and examine them all. We were restricted at this time to a day, 
and merely took a general glance. 

27i;/z.— We drove through some of the boulevards, after 
which we went to the Gobelin tapestry manufactory, and were 
much interested. We saw many beautiful specimens, two of 
which were portraits of the Emperor and Empress. Most of 
the pieces being woven were for the Emperor. The process of 
manufacturing is very tedious and slow. We drove through the 
Bois de Boulogne, one of the finest drives we have yet taken, 
and probably the best in the world. There was a continuous 
line of carriages moving 'along the broad and beautifully-shaded 
avenues. The equipages were of all descriptions, from that of 
the most perfect in all its appointments to the common street 
cab. The Park is entered by the Avenue de l' Imperatrice, 
which begins at the Arc de Triomph, and is about a mile lono- 
and one hundred feet wide ; on one side of this avenue is a soft 
road for equestrians. The park is about four miles long and two 
wide. In it are two artificial lakes and a beautiful cascade. 
The drives around these lakes and through the woods are 
beautiful, as is every part of this lovely spot. It is a perfect 
combination of nature and art, so completely blended as to make 
it difficult to distinguish the one from the other. This, I believe 
is considered the most splendid park in Europe. 

28^/?, Sunday. — Rained in torrents all day; none of us ventured 
out. 

29^A. — Ascended the Arc de Triomph, with May and Sade 
who were quite charmed with the view. From here we went 
to the Panorama of the Battle of Solferina, a wonderful paint- 
ing, but conveying no clear idea of a great battle. 

30i/z. — Visited Hotel desMonnaies (mint), and saw the different 
processes of coining, with which we were all much entertained — par- 
ticularly with the stamping, where we saw the twenty-franc pieces 



70 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

falling through the mill at the rate of thirty a minute. We went 
from here to the Palais du Luxembourg, (built by Maria de Medici), 
and passed through many of the apartments, in which were statues, 
busts, and some historical paintings on the walls and ceilings. 
The Salle dii Senat, where the present Senate holds its sittings, 
is a circular hall, ninety-two feet in diameter. The ceiling is 
decorated with allegorical pictures of Wisdom, Law, Justice, 
and Patriotism. In it are statues of Charlemagne and St. Louis, 
in a sitting posture. The Salle du Trone is an immensely large 
hall, formed out of three rooms. The walls and ceilings are 
elaborately decorated with fresco and other paintings, representing 
different scenes in the lives of Napoleon I. and III. The throne 
is situated on a platform, and is covered with a canopy. The 
chair in which Napoleon I. was crowned is in this room. From 
here we entered a narrow hall adjoining, in which are a 
number of marble busts of Generals, and other prominent men 
of France. In the Cabinet de 1' Empereur are several paintings, 
among them Napoleon I. signing the l^eace of Campo Formio, 
and the marriage of the present Emperor and Empress. The 
apartments of Maria de Medici were small with low ceilings. 
They contain some paintings by Poussin, Reubens, and others, 
besides many very curious things. From these rooms we went 
to the Gallery of Modern Art. None but the works of living 
artists are allowed in this Gallery ; as soon as an artist, who has 
paintings here, dies, his pieces are removed to the Gallery of the 
Louvre. There are many fine paintings here. The " Victims of 
the Eeign of Terror," a very large painting, with many figures, 
is sure to attract the attention of every one. • The expression of the 
different faces of the prisoners is fine, and they are said to be true 
likenesses. The " Beggar Girl," by Merle, a small picture hang- 
ing near the last door, is apt to be overlooked ; it is a little gem. 

On our- way back we sio, [)ed at Notre Dame. The present 
church was begun in 1160, by Alexander III., Pope of Rome, 
upon the site of one built in 365, and was not completed until 1420. 
Its leno-th is three hundred and ninety feet ; width one hundred 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 71 

and forty-four, and height of towers two hundred feet, and is 
covered with lead said to weigh two hundred tons. The bell 
weighs sixteen tons, and requires ten men to ring it. The interior 
is magnificent and imposing, and is entirely beyond my power of 
description Behind the high altar is the " Descent from the Cross," 
a marble group of four figures, the Virgin, Saviour, and two 
angels, by Coustou, which is a fair work of art. There are some 
good paintings and elaborate monuments in it. The history of this 
church is interesting; the one by Victor Hugo is said to be 
good. By paying a franc, each we were admitted into the 
treasury room, in which we saw a large number of the robes of 
the dignitaries of the church, very elaborately embroidered with 
gold and silver; altar-pieces set with diamonds and precious 
stones of great value, and various other articles. 

31st. — Visited the Hotel de Cluny, an old building, having 
been finished about 1500. In 1515 it was occupied by Mary, 
sister of Henry VIII. of England, and widow of Louis XII. Iq 
1536, James V. of Scotland (Scott's Fitz- James), celebrated his 
marriage here with Madehne, daughter of Francis I. The 
numerous apartments are filled with a great variety of articles 
many of which are old and interesting, particularly several very 
old and curious pianos, and a large collection of articles of various 
kinds made of china ; and, of course, specimens of the genuine 
Cluny lace. From here we went to the ruins of the Palais des 
Themes, once the residence of the Koman Governor of Gaul as 
well as the kings of the first and second races. The principal 
remains is a vast hall with vaulted ceiling, sixty-five feet by 
forty-five, and fifty- four feet high. This was originally a room 
for baths. 



72 JOUENAL OF A TOUK THROUGH 



NOVEMBER. 

1st — We ^11 went to a restaurant called "Charley's," to 
get an " American breakfast," and were " taken in." We had 
a beef-steak — very much like the kind I used to buy for 
" Don," ray dog — coffee, made of chicory, and poor buckwheat 
cakes. The only thing American about it was its cost. We had 
a drive in the morning, and in the afternoon went to the Madeleine. 
2^._To'-day we visited the Corps Legislatif, and went through 
the different apartments. The Legislative Hall is semi-circular, 
ornamented with twenty-four columns of white marble in single 
blocks, and has a gallery capable of containing six hundred 
persons. In the different apartments are paintings and statues ; 
amono- the latter one of Henry IV., and a magnificent one of the 
present Emperor. 

3(^, — We had a pleasant drive out to Pere la Chaise, with 
which we were disappointed. It is very beautifully located, the 
ground being undulating, and the hills at some points quite high, 
and there are in it many fine monuments, some of which are 
magnificent specimens of architecture ; the whole, when viewed 
from the hill, looking more like a town or village than a cemetery. 
The poorer classes are buried in long rows of graves almost 
touching each other, with very narrow walks between each row. 
These were all covered with bouquets of natural and artificial 
flowers, mostly of the latter. In many of the family tombs are 
small chapels, with one or two seats, and various emblems of the 
Catholic religion, hung around the walls ; these too, have 
flowers, mostly artificial. The street leading to the cemetery is 
filled with little shops where these artificial flowers are manufac- 
tured and sold. There are upward of twenty thousand tombs in 
the cemetery. A separate space is devoted to the burial of Jews, 



GBEAT-BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 73 

and also the Mahometans. We met several funerals while 
coming out. 

From here we drove to the Jardin des Plantes, and walked 
through a part of the grounds only. The menagerie will not 
compare with that of London, either in the number and variety 
of animals or in arrangement. We did not go into the botanical 
grounds, as it was too late in the season to see any plants or 
flowers. On our return we stopped at a restaurant pn the Palais 
Royale and had a two-franc, dinner, soup, beef-a-la-mode, roast 
chicken, salad, vanilla cream, and grapes, with two bottles of 
claret, for four of us— a good dinner for eight francs. 

Ath, Sunday. — Went to the American Episcopal Chapel and 
heard a good sermon from the rector, Mr. Lamson. Did not go 
in the afternoon. 

Sth. — Drove out to the Bois de Boulogne to witness a review 
of the troops by the Emperor. His Majesty, the Empress, and 
Prince Imperial, handsomely mounted, galloped up and down the 
long lines, after which they witnessed the evolutions ; many of 
them were admirably executed. The display was grand, sur- 
passing anything of the kind I had ever seen before. Owing to 
the extent of the lines, we had no view of the artillery and cavalry, 
much to our disappointment. 

We drove to St. Cloud in advance of the troops, and stationed 
ourselves on the bridge to get a view of the Emperor and his 
suite as they passed, but only had a glance at them, as the carriage 
drove by very fast. This, however, gave us an opportunity of 
seeing all the troops as they defiled over the bridge. We returned 
through the Bois, and had a delightful drive. 

Qth, — Visited Santo Chapelle, erected in 1245 to 1248. The 
sides and rear — the latter circular — are entirely of stained glass, 
and over the door of the front is a very large window of the same 
material. It is unlike anything we have ever seen, and the effect 
was rich. Sent a despatch to my brother Newton in New York, 
by the Atlantic cable at 11 o'clock a. m. 

4 ' ' 



74 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THBOUGH 

^th. — At 10 o'clock A. M. I received a reply to my despatch, 
dated the same day on which mine left. 

^th. — Our friend Mr. B having placed his carriage at our 

disposal, we drove out to Vincennes, and through the extensive 
grounds there. We saw a number of troops practising at the target 
with small arms and cannon. Went to, and through the castle, 
from the top of which we had a fine view of Sante Chapelle. In 
the chapel of the castle is a monument to the Duke D'Enghein, 
who was condemned and shot for alleged treason during the reign 
of Napoleon I. There are four life-size statues representing the . 
Duke sustained by Religion, France weeping over his fate, and 
Vengeance following. We next went through the armory in 
which are large quantities of arms, with specimens belonging to 
every age. I was much interested in the newly-invented needle 
gun, said to be an improvement on the Prussian gun ; it is simple 
in its arrangement, and seems to answer admirably the purpose 
for which it was intended. 

^th. — We went with Howie to the celebrated Doctor Nelaton, 
to have his ankle examined. After waiting nearly three hours we 
had an interview. He gave it a careful examination, and directed 
seven or eight thicknesses of cotton wadding to be put around it, 
and secured by a tight bandage, to be covered over with starch, so 
as to make it secure and uniform in its pressure ; this to be.renewed 
every fifteen days. 

\Oth. — Accomplished nothing to-day. 

lU/z, Sunday. — May and Sade attended services at the Eng- 
lish Congregational Chapel. I remained at the hotel with 
Howie. 

\^th, \^th and \Uh. — Nothing done or seen worth record- 
ing. Howie and myself went to the Champs Elysees, and were 
caught in the rain. 

15^7i. — Went through the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). Some of 
the apartments are very elegant, particularly the ball-room, which 
is thirty-six by ninety-four feet, and twenty-five feet high. It was 
from the centre window of this room that Lafayette introduced 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 75 

Louis Phillippe to the populace in 1830; and in it Robespierre 
held his councils, and afterward (July 27, 1794), attempted to 
destroy himself. 

IGtk and 17th. — A blank so far as sight-seeing was concerned. 

18t/), Sunday. — Attended church at the American Chapel ; 
sermon by the pastor, Mr. Eldridge. 

19^/z. — Did some shopping. 

20^/z. — After an early breakfast we left in the train for Ver- 
sailles, and went through about one half of the apartments. The 
guide, an intelligent old man, of eighty years, and who had been 
with Napoleon I., informed us that to see all of the paintings, 
statuary, and other things of interest, we would have to walk 
eight miles. The historical collection contained in the palace 
may be divided into seven sections : historical pictures, portraits, 
busts and statues, coins, views of royal residences, marine gallery, 
and tombs. The first named represents the great battles, military 
and naval, and to me were exceedingly interesting, particularly 
those representing the campaigns of Napoleon I. , and the Crimean 
and Italian campaigns of the present Emperor. One of the pic- 
tures, the Capture of the camp of Abdar Kedar, is sixty-five by 
twenty-two feet, and is a striking and life-like picture. Many of 
the apartments are very rich and elegant. One through which 
we passed was two hundred and forty feet long and thirty-five 
wide, with a correspondingly high ceiling, decorated' by Le Brun. 
A description of the palace and its splendid collection would make 
a volume of itself, and be one of very deep interest. The palace 
was commenced in 1660 by Louis XIV., and the court was trans- 
ferred to it in 1681. The cost of the buildings, grounds, and 
improvements was over two hundred millions of dollars. 

The western fagade is sixteen hundred feet in length, with a 
central projection of three hundred feet. The grounds are exten- 
sive, and regularly laid out, and adorned with avenues, lawns, 
flower-beds, lakes, and fountains, with innumerable pieces of 
statuary, vases, pillars and columns, presenting a scene of beauty 
and grandeur unsurpassed, probably, by anything else of the kind 



76 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

in the world. One of the fountains, we were informed, cost 
three hundred thousand dollars. This is only played on state 
occasions, and the expense of doing so is over ten thousand 
francs. It is utterly impossible to describe the place, and I will 
leave it, with its beauties indelibly impressed upon my memory, 
and a feeling that it alone was worth a trip across the Atlantic 
to see. 

21st to 29th. — The only places of interest visited by us during 
this time were the Hotel des Invalides, for old and disabled 
soldiers, a very extensive and well-arranged establishment, but of 
no particular attraction to the stranger. The tomb of Napoleon, 
in the Eglise des Invalides, is a monument worthy of the genius 
of the great man whose ashes it covers. 

30th. — Having completed our arrangements, we left Paris at 
11 o'clock A. M., and arrived at Dijon at half-past five p. m., 
where we stopped /or the night at the Hotel de Jura, a plain, but 
comfortable and well-conducted establishment. 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 77 



DECEMBER. 

"ist. — The weather was very cold, and the ground frozen. We 
left at about nine o'clock for Lyons. A part of the country 
througli which we passed is low, and had suffered much from 
the summer inundations. We arrived at half past three p. m., 
and stopped at the Grande Hotel de Lyons, where we were very 
poorly accommodated. 

2d, Sunday. — Attended services at the English church, or 
chapel, held in a room which was occupied by a German congre- 
gation at an earlier hour. The sermon was not interesting. The 
rain came down in torrents, making us quite damp before reaching 
our hotel. 

Sd. — We drove to the summit of the Heights of Fourvieres, 
from which there is a line view of the city and country, extending 
to Mont Blanc. Owing to the dense fog we could not see a 
hundred rods. We went into the Cathedral Notre Dame de 
Fourvieres, situated on the top of the hill, on the dome of which 
is a copper figure of the Virgin. On our return we stopped at St. 
Irenee, a little lower down the hill, built on the spot where, it is 
said, the inhuman Septimus Severus caused several thousand 
Christians who had met there to pray to be massacred. The 
vaults under the church are filled with bones, which we saw, said 
to be those of the unfortunate victims. The inclemency of the 
weather prevented us from seeing much of Lyons. 

4,th. — At 7:30 a. m., we were again on the wing, and at 3:30 
p. M., arrived at Marseilles. The country through which we 
passed varied, a part being tiat and marshy, and a part apparently 
productive. We saw many large olive groves, which looked very 
picturesque and beautiful. They were the first we had ever seen, 
and recalled to mind the branch brought by the dove to the ark, 



78 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

showiiig that the waters had abated — a symbol of peace. We were 
also reminded of the Mount of Olives, where our Savior, on that 
fearful and eventful night, " went as he was wont/' and prayed 
and suffered — the innocent for the guilty. The olive tree is so 
intimately associated with the life and sufferings of our Savior, as 
to make one feel a special interest in it. Just before reaching 
Marseilles, we passed through a tunnel about two miles and a half 
long. On arriving, we stopped at the Grande Hotel de Marseilles, 
a good house. 

6th. — Drove through some of the principal streets. The Rue 
Imperiale is a new and very attractive street, the buildings equal- 
ling in architectural beauty the best in Paris. The harbor, around 
which we passed, is protected from the sea by a wall extending 
across the small bay from point to point, a part of which is 
mounted with guns. Only one vessel can enter at a time. It is 
defended by two forts standing on two separate hills. The amount 
of shipping in the harbor was much larger than I had any idea of, 
and the place is one of great commercial importance. In the 
afternoon we visited the museum, in which are a few paintings. 
Marseilles is a very old city, and was founded by the Phoenicians, 
a'bout 600 years before Christ. 

6^/2. — We left at 1 o'clock, p. m., for Nice, and arrived at 6:30 
p. M. Stopped at the Hotel des Anglais, a very good house. The 
country through which we passed before dark was undulating and 
some parts very beautiful. 

lih. — Weather cloudy and uncomfortable. 

Sth. — A bright and charming day. I went through a part of 
the city, most of which is old, with narrow streets and high build- 
ings. The part occupied by foreigners, and in which the principal 
hotels are situated, is mostly new and well built, with many pleas- 
ant villas, surrounded by orange groves, which with the fruit 
just ripening, present a rich appearance. 

9i5A, Sunday. — Went in the morning to the Scotch Presbyterian 
Chapel, quite a large room, comfortably fitted up. The sermon 
was only fair. In the afternoon \Vent to the Church of England, 



GEEAT BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 79 

and heard a good sermon. The church, apparently new, is built 
of stone, large, and the exterior particularly shows much archi- 
tectural beauty and taste. 

IQth to 13^/?.— The weather during the week was clear. We had 
some pleasant walks and drives, one of which was to an old cha- 
teau at the summit of a high Jiill, which rises up between the 
eastern and western parts of the town, from which we had a fine 
view of the city and harbor. 

\Qth, Sunday. — Went to the Scotch Presbyterian Chapel in the 
morning, and heard a very interesting and practical sermon by 
the pastor, from I. Cor. i: 30. Went to the Church of England 
in the afternoon, and heard a good sermon from I. Thess., v: 19 : 
" Quench not the spirit." The day was bright and genial. 

Nice is situated on the shores of the ever-changing Mediterra- 
nean, protected from the winds of the north by a spur of the Alps, 
rising behind it like an amphitheatre. The climate is said to be 
very uniform, although many Americans who have spent winters 
there express a different opinion. It certainly did not agree with 
any of my family, for none of us were well. The first large 
orange groves we saw were at Nice, and they were more beau- 
tiful than any fruit trees we had ever seen before. The population 
of Nice is about fifty thousand. Our hotel was situated directly on 
the sea shore. It is said to be more pleasant and more healthful 
further back under the hills. 

19^/2. — At 10 o'clock A. M., our carriage, a fine roomy one, with 
seats for four inside and tv/o in front, above the driver, with five 
*' smart" looking horses attached, with bells on, stood in front of 
our hotel door. The baggage was soon on and properly secured. 
May, Sade, and the servant occupied the inner seats, while Howie 
and myself mounted the one outside. The whip cracked, the 
usual hou par was sounded, and we were off for Genoa, over the 
world-renowned Cornice road. After a most varied drive of 
five hours, up hill, around hill, and again down hill, we arrived at 
Montone, a very popular winter residence for invalids, and stopped 
at the Hotel Victoria. The road was diversified and beautiful, 
the views from some points being exceedingly good. 



80 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

20th. — At 8 o'clock we were off again, and in less than an 
hour were across the French frontier. After a charming drive of 
a few hours, passing through Ventimiglia and Bordighiera, we 
reached San' Remo, where we rested and had lunch, after which 
we proceeded on, passing through Porto Maurizio, a picturesque 
old place, to Oneglia, where we spent the night. It was here 
that the famous Genoese Admiral, Andrea Doria, was born. The 
town was burned by the French in 1792. 

21st. — We left at seven, and after a long drive up and down 
the mountains and around the bays, passing through a number 
of towns with their narrow streets, through which the driver 
would generally. run his horses, cracking his whip as only an 
Italian can crack it, to keep the street clear (for but one vehicle 
can pass at a time), we reached Loano, where we rested and 
lunched. We then drove to Savona, a town of twenty thousand 
inhabitants, where we spent the night. 

22d. — At eight we were off again, driving until 1 p. M., when 
we rested and had a good lunch, after which we proceeded on to 
Genoa, arriving at half-past four, stopping at the Hotel Feder, 
where we were well accommodated. We have gone over the Cor- 
nice * road, and perhaps it is better for me not to refer to it. It 
seems mockery to attempt a description. One better qualified than 
myself has said of it : " Few public highways are more favored 
than this; few, at any rate, combine in themselves three such 
elements of natural beauty as the Mediterranean on one side, the 
Appenines on the other, and overhead the splendors of an Italian 
sky." Numerous towns and villages, some gracefully seated on the 
shore bathing their feet in the silvery wave, some stretching up the 
mountain side like flocks of sheep, or thrown pi(!turesquely across 
the mountain ridge, and here and there a solitary sanctuary 
perched high on some sea-waslied cliff, or half lost in a forest of 
verdure at the head of some glen, make a picture wh'ich no pen 
can describe, no brush paint. The road, in its obedience to the 

* Pronounced "Corneche'." 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 81 

capricious indentations of the coast, is irregular and serpent like ; 
at one time on a level with the sea, it passes between hedges of 
oleander and aloes ; at another, winds up some steep mountain 
side, rising to such a height that the eye recoils terriiied as it 
looks into the abyss below ; here it disappears into tunnels cut 
into the living rock ; then it comes out upon a wide expanse of 
earth, sky and water ; now turns inland, with a seeming deter- 
mination to force a passage across the mountain ; anon shoots 
abruptly in an opposite direction, as if bent upon rushing headlong 
into the sea. The variety of prospect residting from these con- 
tinued shiftings of view, is as endless as that offered by the ever- 
changing combinations of the kaleidoscope. As we approached 
Genoa, we saw at almost every town through which we passed 
numbers of ship-yards in which vessels were being built, 
principally of small size. The actual Cornice road was only 
completed in 1828. Genoa had always opposed the opening 
of a carriage road leading to the French frontier. There is 
now constructing a railway from Genoa to Nice, which, 
when completed, will be one of the finest specimens of en- 
gineering in the wgrld. It runs near to the Cornice road 
most of the way, and at least one fifth of it must be tunnelled, 
and many of the tunnels are miles in length, as they are 
seen to go in at one side of large mountains and come out at 
the other. I walked through one of these tunnels, and found 
it admirably arched. This road will be one of the wonders 
of the age, and indeed of the world. The little valleys and sides 
of the mountains, wherever they can be built up with stone walls 
into terraces, are under cultivation ; dates, olives, figs, grapes, 
and other fruits being the principal products. The olive trees 
bear a good crop only once in three years. The berries remain 
on the trees from May or June until January before they are 
gathered, and are constantly liable to be injured by winds and heavy 
rains. The tree needs great care, requiring every few years a very 
rich manure, and, at certain seasons, the earth around the trunk 
must be dug away, to give air to the roots. 

4* 



82 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

23d, Sunday. — Went to the Scotch Presbyterian Chapel in the 
morning, where we heard a very solemn and impressive serai on 
by the pastor, who is quite a young man, from Matthew iii : 7. 
Went to the Church of England in the afternoon and heard a 
good sermon from Isaiah xxx ; 1-3. The services are held in a 
hired room. 

24th. — San' Matteo, a church built by the Doria family, and in 
which they are buried, was the first place we visited. It is an 
old and dilapidated building, of small size, with nothing of interest 
except the epitaphs on the tombs of the Dorias. The great 
Admiral, Andrea Doria, has a tomb here. We went to San' 
Lorenzo Cathedral, built in the eleventh century, and restored in 
the thirteenth. The interior is inlaid with black and white 
marble. Women are admitted into one of its chapels (St. John 
the Baptist), on only one day in the year, because a woman was 
instrumental in causing his death. Howie and I went into the 
chapel, where we were shown'a chain with which John the Baptist 
was said to have been bound while in prison. We manifested a 
want of faith, which seemed to surprise the person showing us 
through. There is a bust of Columbus, a Madonna, and some 
paintings in the church. The interior is splendid, a part of the 
decorations being mosaic. We next went to L' Annunciata, built 
by the Lomellini family, and recently restored. It is a basilica, two 
hundred and fifty feet in length and eighty-two in width, exclusive 
of the side chapels. Fergasson, in describing it, says: "The 
nave is separated from the aisles by Corintnian columns of white 
marblfe ; the flutings are inlaid with marbles of a warmer color ; 
the v/alls throughout, froni the entrance to the apsis, are covered 
with precious marbles, arranged in patterns of great beauty. The 
whole is in such good taste, so rich and elegant as to be the best 
church of its class in Italy." Our next visit was to the Palace 
Brignole Sale, said to be the finest in the city. In it are many 
good paintings by Vandyke, Del Sarto, Guido, and others. Next 
we went to the Palazza Balbi, a small palace with some fine 
paintings, among which we noticed The Last Supper, by P. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 83 

Veronese, Guido's Lucretia, and Titian's St. Catharine. From 
here we went to the Palace Durazzo, a large and elegant estab- 
lishment, containing many rare paintings, among which are Christ 
and Mary in the G-arden, by Doraenichino, a Magdalene, by Titian, 
Charity, by Guido, and Madonna, by Del Sarto. We also saw a 
beautiful piece of statuary, representing the lady to whom the palace 
belongs and her little son. I he drapery is perfect. We next drove 
to the Villa Scogeitto, and walked through the grounds, which are 
neither beautiful nor well kept. We had a broad view of the city 
from the top of the hill, and saw some rare plants and shrubs in 
the conservatory. The grounds are on a hill, and are ascended 
by stairs and winding paths. 

'26th. — Christmas day ; but how unlike the Christmas of my 
boyhood, to which I then looked forward with such feelings of 
pleasure. Now it came and almost went without my even thinking 
of it. We drove through the upper part of the city and around 
the sea-wall, stopping at San Maria de Carignano, a plain church 
situated on a high eminence, returning by the park, where we heard 
a band of music. We walked out in the afternoon. 

2Qth. — Drove out to the Villa Pallavacino, about seven miles dis- 
tant. The grounds are extensive, and adorned with gardens, green- 
houses containing tropical plants, Roman arch, marble temples, 
obelisk pagoda, a curious grotto, and lakes round which we wind in 
boats. In some parts of the ground, by touching springs, the 
water is turned on, and spouting jets pour in upon the visitor 
from every direction, and in trying to escape from one he is sure 
to run upon two others. We had a magnificent view of the sea 
from the heights of the grounds, on which stands a miniature 
castle. On our return to the city we stopped at the Doria Palace, 
now used as a town hall, in which we saw three letters written 
by Columbus ; the famous Polceverra table ; also a copper slab 
found at Polceverra in A. D. 150, on which is engraved the 
boundary line between the G^neratae and Victurii, as settled by 
the Roman authorities 633 years before Christ.- We also saw 
Paganiai's fiddle, bequeathed by him to his native city, Genoa. 



84 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

We next visited the Palace Pallavacino, in which are some fine 
paintings by Vandyke ; " The Sacrifice of Abraham," by Fran- 
ceschini ; "The Dream of Joseph," by L. Caracci; "The 
Descent from the Cross," by A. Durer, and many others. Wo 
visited also St. Ambrogio, a large and imposing church built by 
the Pallavacini family, in which are some fine paintings by 
Keubens, Guido, and others, and then returned to the hotel quite 
tired. We had finished Genoa, and as my wife was anxious to 

get to Florence, where her old friends the S rs are residing, 

we concluded to leave that evening for Leghorn by steamer, and 
made our arrangements accordingly. 

Genoa is a very old city, with an exceedingly interesting 
history. Its streets are very narrow, and the buildings high. 
Many of them are painted in gay colors, presenting a curious 
appearance, and leaving on our minds an undecided impression 
whether we like them or not. The population is about one 
hundred and twenty thousand. The city is pleasantly situated 
on the side of an eminence, with the Appenines for a back ground. 
It has a fine harbor, protected by two very large moles. Colum- 
bus was born here. 

Nine o'clock p. m. found us on board the Stella d' Italia bound 
for Leghorn. As all were tired, the family, except myself, were 
soon in bed. Before 10 we were under w^ay. I was standing 
on deck ; the night was quite dark ; and we could not see far 
ahead. Just as we were getting out into the open sea I heard a 
great commotion ; men and officers were running in all directions 
over the deck. Then came a crash. The little boat quivered, and 
all was quiet for a moment. We had been run into by a schooner 
and disabled ; the after-part of our deck was cleared of everything — 
masts, boats at the side, railing and wheel-house, all were carried 
away. I barely had time to save myself by springing through the 
cabin door. The impression was that we we were going down. 
We were disabled, at all events My family were soon dressed, and 
we stood prepared for any emergency. After rolling about in quite 
a heavy sea for some time, a temporary rudder was made, and 
after turning and moving around for an hour or two we got 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 85 

back safe into the harbor. Most of the passengers left the boat 
to proceed on their journey by rail. We were informed that the 
company would put on another boat in the morning, so we 
remained on board to try the sea again. About 2 o'clock we 
were all in bed, and slept soundly until morning. 

27^/i. — As the cargo had to be transferred to the Marco Polo, 
it was nearly 1 o'clock before we sailed. We were hardly out- 
side of the harbor before it began to rain and blow ; we were 
soon in one of the ugliest seas I ever experienced. The waves 
roared and foamed as if broken loose from strong iron cages, 
and utterly bewildered at having gained their liberty, dashed 
about in their mad fury. Our boat, at one time, rolled as if she 
would go entirely over, at another pitched, as though she was pre- 
paring to make a descent to the bottom of the sea headforemost. 
Tlien she would twist and quiver, as if striving to escape from 
two opposing powers. We could neither stand nor sit, and in 
lying down we felt as if we were sometimes on our heads and then 
again on our feet. I used to think the Carribean sea about as 
unpleasant as a sea could be, but it would bear no comparisoii 
with this. We had no abatement durincj our voyage, which ter- 
minated in about eight hours. On reaching the harbor, we an- 
chored some distance out, and had to land in a small boat. This 
was very unpleasant, as the weather was dark, raining, and 
rough. We managed, however, to get safely on shore, and up 
to the Hotel du Nord, where after taking tea we retired, and 
dreamed of stormy seas and rolling boats. The great Addison 
encountered a similar storm in this gulf — a storm which he thus 
recalls in one of his hymns : 

" Thy mercy sweeten'd every toil, 
Made every region please ; 
The hoary Alpine hills it warra'd, 
And smooth'd the Tyi-rhene seas. 

" For though in dreadM -whirls "we hung 
High on the broken wave, 
I knew thou wert not slow to hear, 
Nor impotent to save ." 



86 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

28th. — After breakfast we visited the Jewish synagogue, one 
of the oldest in Italy, with nothing very striking io its appearance. 
After leaving here we drove through some of the principal streets, 
and some distance up on a wide street running parallel with 
the sea-wall, on the upper side of which are some beautiful 
residences. The streets of Leghorn are wide and the buildings 
good. It is a place of considerable commercial importance, but 
has few attractions for strangers. 

At 12 M. we left for Pisa by rail, arriving in half an hour. 
This is a very old place, supposed to be of Greek origin. It was 
one of the commercial republics of Italy, but its population now 
is only twenty thousand. It once numbered one hundred and 
fifty thousand. The broad streets, the silent quays, and the 
general deep stilness which pervades the place contrasts strongly 
with Genoa, where all is life and activity. There was something 
inexpressibly refreshing to my feelings in the 8abbath-like quiet 
of the town. Our first visit here was to the Campo Santo, the 
old burial place, built in the form of an oblong square, and sur- 
rounded with a lofty portico supported on pillars. It was built 
from 1278 to 1283; and it is said that fifty- three ship-loads of 
soil were brought here from Mount Calvary between 1 187 and 
1200, when the Pisans and other Crusaders were driven out by 
Saladin. In the portico are the busts and monumental tablets of 
celebrated Pisanese. The walls are covered with the remains of 
paintings, the subjects drawn from Dante's ''Inferno," but they 
are very much defaced. Yet enough remains to make one turn 
in horror from the multitudes of figures either issuing from a 
lake of sulphur, or undergoing some other not much less horrible 
torture. 

We next went to the Baptistery, a very handsome circular 
building, one hundred and thirty feet in diameter inside. It is 
cased with marble, and the floors are mosaic. There is a 
musical echo under the dome. The pulpit is supported by some 
rich and beautiful marble pillars, from different places. 

The Cathedral stands near the Baptistery. It is a five-aisled 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT, 87 

cros:^, three hundred and ten feet in length, with a nave one 
hundred and six feet wide; was commenced in 1063, and 
completed in 1118, and is one of the most complete churches 
in Italy. The front is of black and white marble; the 
doors are of bronze, with figures from the life of Christ and the 
Virgin ; they are considered beautiful. The interior is gorgeous 
with gilding, sculpture and paintings. It has one hundred 
rich glass windows of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. 
There are twelve altars, designed by Michael Angelo. In it are 
also some fine mosaics, but these I cannot describe. The 
Campanile, or leaning tower, which is a round building fifty-two 
feet in diameter up to the top story, which is reduced to forty feet. 
Its height is one hundred and seventy-eight feet, and it inclines 
fourteen feet from the perpendicular. The date of its commence- 
ment is 1174. I think it is now generally believed that it was 
built straight, and its incline was caused by a settling of the foun- 
dation on one side. It has been in this leaning condition for cen- 
turies. There are two hundred and ninety-four steps leading to the 
top. I ascended with Sade and Howie — he was carried up. The 
prospect from the summit, over the peaceful town, and the valley 
of the Arno, stretching onward to the foot of the distant Appe- 
nines, is one of exceeding beauty. 

After partaking of a good dinner, we left at 5 p. m. for 
Florence, arriving at 7:30, and stopping at Hotel New York. 

29^^. — Our principal object in visiting Florence at this time 
was to give May an opportunity of visiting her old friends, the 

S rs, whom she had not seen for a long time. The greeting 

was cordial, and they seemed delighted at meeting us again. I 
walked through some of the streets, and was much disappointed 
at the appearance of Florence, so much has been said and sung in 
its praise. The streets in the old part of the city are narrow and 
far from clean. They are crowded with men, women, donkeys 
and vehicles, all mixed up together, and each trying to push liis 
way through the motley crowd. Comparatively few of the streets, 
except in the new part of the city, have sidewalks, and after rains 



88 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

they are muddy and slippery. In the new part of the city the 
streets are wider. 

30th, Sunday. — May and Bade went to the American Chapel 
in the morning. Howie not being well, I remained with him. 
We all went to the chapel in the afternoon. A. young man from 
Boston read a chapter and made some comments. Tiiere was 
no regular sermon. 

Slst. — In the forenoon we went to the Pitti Palace, which 
contains a collection of about five hundred pictures, many of 
which are by the old masters, and rank high as works of art. 
These are distributed in a number of rooms named after the 
planets. As I expect to visit this gallery again, I will now reserve 
any allusion to the pictures. Some of the rooms contain beautiful 
mosaic tables. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 89 



JANUARY. 

1st, 1867.— There it lies in its cradle ! its pure forehead 
yet unstained by sin, unfurrowed by cares; and not an hour 
shall have passed without the traces of both becoming visible. 
And where is the mother gone? where is the fulfilled year? 
Gone, sorrowing, to join the crowd of ancestors who witness 
each against me for the unthrifty waste I have made of the rich 
legacies they, one by one, have bestowed on me. Oh ! new- 
born year, what secrets are there folded in thy breast ; what 
undreamt of changes ; what strange befallings ; what unforeseen 
sorrows; what unexpected joys!" But who would have the 
courage to lift the veil, and glance down the broad avenues 
leading to its close? Surely not I ; but rather would throw 
myself upon the goodness and mercy of Him who says, '' Look 
unto me,' ' and humbly beseech him to enable me thus to do during 
the year upon which I have just entered, should my life be spared 
to its close ; whether joys or sorrows come, " all things will work 
together for my good," and may His grace be sufficient for me ; 
sufficient to sustain me in troubles, to subdue the corruptions of 
my heart, to sanctify my afflictions, and to enable me to live in 
closer communion with Him. 1867! Should I live to its close, 
may I be able to look back to a year well spent. 

The weather during the day has been changeable and un- 
pleasant. Thunder and lightning in the morning, and showers 

during the day. We dined with our friends, the S rs, at the 

Villa Victoria, and spent a very pleasant evening with them. 

2cl to 9iA. — During the seven days we visited the Duomo, or 
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The exterior is of blocks 
of black and white marble, and is very beautiful The interior 
is plain. The cathedral is five hundred feet long, by three 



90 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

hundred and ten feet through the transept. The nave is one 
hundred and twenty-eight feet; height, one hundred and fifty- 
three feet. 

The carnpanile, or detached belfry, is a light and elegant 
tower, forty-two feet square, relieved by octagonal projections at 
the corners, and covered, like the churcli, with slices of variegated 
marble, and adorned with fifty- four bas-reliefs and sixteen 
statues. It is four stories, the entire height being two hundred 
and ninety-six feet, and is ascended by four hundred and fifteen 
steps. 

I also visited the Baptistery, built in the style of the Temple of 
Mars. It is an octagonal building of the thirteenth century, 
one hundred and eight feet in diameter. This building is famed 
for its three bronzed doors, covered with reliefs of the history of 
John the Baptist, and other scriptural subjects. These are the 
doors which Michael Angelo said ought to be the gates of Para- 
dise. 

We visited, also, the Uffizi Gallery, which is in the Palazzo degli 
Uffizi, a large palace built by the Medici, and in which are many 
of the public offices of the city, together with one of the richest 
collections of works of art to be found in the whole world, and 
the very " centre and crown jewel of all is the Tribune." This, 
like the Pitti, is a very large building, being five hundred feet 
long, by one hundred and twenty-five wide. The collection con- 
sists of paintings, drawings, and statuary by the most celebrated 
artists. It connects with the Pitti, which is on the opposite side 
of the river by a hall or passage of great length. This passage 
contains a large variety of antiquities, some paintings, and an 
extensive collection of tapestries, mostly representing scriptural 
scenes. The walk through the hall is a long, but very interesting 
one. 

The most valuable works of art, as befoi^e intimated, are in the 
Tribune, a small, close octagonal room, about twenty-four feet in 
diameter, and lighted from the ceiling. The statue of Venus de' 
Medici, so called because placed here by Cosmos III , of the 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 91 

Medici: family, is considered one of the most beautiful specimens 
of art in Italy. It was found at the Villa Adreana, broken in three 
pieces, and was restored by Bernini. I had often heard of the 
Venus de' Medici, and expected to have been enchanted by its 
beauty, but now, as I stood before it, no emotion of pleasure was 
awakened in my heart. It was perfect in all its parts, and most 
delicately chiselled. The head exquisitely graceful, the arms round 
and beautifully proportioned, and the whole figure perfect in 
symmetry ; but its beauty is of a soft and feeble character, and did 
not come up to my expectations ; nor could I discover any traces 
of genuine admiration in the countenances of others who were 
looking at it, though, because it was fashionable to do so, all spoke 
words of unbounded admiration. How small is the number of 
those who form and express their own ideas of the beautiful ! 
though real beauty is a thing which commends itself to the soul 
of every man. There are three other pieces of statuary in this 
room. The Wrestlers, The Grinder, and the Dancing Fawn. 
The paintings are considered gems. Among them are Caracci'g 
Eliezer and Rebecca, Cranach's Adam and Eve, A. Durer's Ado- 
ration of the Magi, Titian's Venus and Cupid, Michael Angelo's 
Holy Family, Del Sarto's Madonna, St. John the Evangelist and 
St. Francis, Titian's Venus with Flowers and Dog, Raphael's St. 
John the Baptist, and his Fornarina ; Reubens' Hercules between 
Venus and Minerva, and P, Veronese's Madonna and Child. The 
numerous other rooms are filled with paintings of the different 
schools, a mere list of which, with the names of the artists, would 
fill pages. One of the rooms is devoted to portraits of artists by 
themselves, and among them one (that of a painter whose name I 
have forgotten) so much resembling myself as to attract the atten- 
tion of several of my friends. It was thought by my own family 
to be an excellent likeness of me. 

We had some pleasant drives and walks around the city. 

On Sunday morning we went to the Scotch church, and in the 
afternoon to the Church of England. Dined on Tuesday (9M) 
with our friends at the Villa Victoria, and expect to leave in the 
evening for Rome. 



92 JOURNAL OP A TOUE THROUGH 

We left the hotel at 8 o'clock p. m., our friend, Miss CarriCj 
accompanying us to the depot, and at 9 we were off for the 
"Eternal City." 

10th. — We travelled all night, and were very comfortable in 
the cars. We reached Rome at about 10 o'clock a. m., engaged 
rooms at the Hotel des Isles Britanniques, situated on the Piazza 
del Popolo, where three principal streets diverge like so many 
oblique rays ; the one to the right is the Repetta, leading to the 
Tiber ; in the centre is the Corso, terminating in the Venetian 
palace ; and to the left the Via del Babuino, which leads to the 
Piazza di Spagna. We were very comfortably situated. The 
hotel is a good one. As we were tired from our long ride, we 
kept house the remainder of the day. 

llih. — We remained in our rooms most of this day, as it was 
rainy and unpleasant. 

12tL — Having engaged a valet-de-place, we started on our first 
excursion through Rome. A drive of fifteen minutes brought us tc^ 
the principal bridge over the Tiber, directly opposite which stands 
the Castle of St. Angelo. We passed over, and proceed ^ short 
distance, when we emerged from the narrow street into the piazza 
in front, with its beautiful fountains, towering obelisk, and grace- 
fully carved colonnades, and St. Peter's bursts full upon the sight. 
A feeling of disappointment came over me, and my first impres- 
sions were that the building has been much overrated, both in size 
and magnificence, as from its situation and the peculiarity of its 
architecture the dome is almost hidden from view. But when it is 
examined from different points, and one ascends and walks over its 
roof, he gets an idea of its immensity as well as its beauty and 
grandeur, and is almost dazzled by its gorgeous splendor. It stands 
on the spot where St. Peter is said to have been crucified, and 
where Constantine built a church about A. D. 330, which stood 
until the twelfth century. The present Basilica* was begun in 1 506 

* The Basilica was the Koman law court. It was divided into three 
naves, i. e., a central nave and two aisles, by a row of columns on each 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 93 

by Julius II., and the front was completed in 1622, by Paul V. 
The building of it covered a space of one hundred and sixteen 
years, and the reign of eighteen Popes; one of whom was Leo X., 
whose scheme for raising money for the work, by the sale of 
indulgences produced the Keformation. The total cost of the 
building was about $40,000,000, and the annual charge for 
keeping it up is $6,000,000. Its depth is eight hundred and 
thirteen feet, breadth through the transept four hundred and 
forty-eight feet, and height from piazza to the top of the cross 
four hundred and forty-eight feet. The interior diameter of the 
dome is one hundred and thirty-nine feet, the exterior one hun- 
dred and ninety-six. It is approached by a circular court, seven 
hundred and forty feet by five hundred and ninety ; enclosed by 
colonnades; resting on two hundred and eighty columns, in four 
rows, forming three alleys between them, and crowned with 
statues of saints. In the centre is an Egyptian obelisk, brought 
from the circus of Nero, on each side of which is a tall fountain, 
fifty feet high. The water from these rises to the height of 
seventy feet, falling through a continuous mist from basin to basin. 
The colonnades referred to are joined by open corridors three 
hundi'od and six feet long, to the front of tl.e church, not parallel 
to each other, but sloping outward as they approach it, and the 
whole distance from the ends of the colonnades to the church is 
nine hundred feet. The vestibule is four hundred and seventy 
feet long by fifty deep. The interior is so well proportioned as 
to disappoint the spectator at first glance, but it enlarges as the 
eye gets used to the details The mosaics, marble and bronze, in 
the chapels of this great basilica are almost endless. Many of 
the mosaics, which are so perfectly executed as to make it difficult 
to distinguish them from oil paintings, are copied from paintings 



side, with a tribunal for the judges at the end. This was railed in with 
a cancella, or lattice, whence we get chancel, ecclesiastical, and chancel- 
lor, legal. It afterward became the model for churches, and hence the 
term basilica. 



94 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUaH 

in the Vatican. The cost of each is about ^30,000. Mendelssohn 
says, " the building surpasses all description. It appears to me 
like some great work of nature, a forest, a mass of rocks, or 
something similar, for I never can realize that it is the work of 
man ; you strive to distinguish the ceiling as little as the canopy 
of heaven ; you lose all idea of measurement with the eye or 
proportion ; and yet who does not feel his heart expand when 
standing under the dome and gazing up at it." There is said to 
be more stone under the ground than above it. 

A want of time, if there were no other reasons, would make 
it impracticable for me to give even a condensed description of 
this church, and the various other places of interest which I hope 
to see in Rome. I must only note them down in the order in 
which we visited them. 

From the church we went to the Vatican palace and- museum, 
a part of which is occupied by the Pope, and an almost innumer- 
able number of halls and courts filled with statuary, mostly the 
work of former ages, paintings, antiquities^, libraries, and various 
otlier things of interest. This edifice is very irregular, being 
formed of many buildings put up at different periods, joined 
together by long corridors three stories high, with inside courts. 
In all it measures about one thousand five hundred and fifty feet 
in length and seven hundred and seventy in width ; has twenty 
courts, eight grand and two hundred small stair cases, and it is 
stated by several authorities to contain four thousand four hundred 
and twenty-two apartments. We had only time to go through a 
limited number of rooms, as it closes at three. The walls of one 
of the long halls are covered with fragments of epitaphs — on the 
one side Pagan, and on the other Christian, Some I'ooms are 
devoted to busts of ancient Romans, others to bas-reliefs, and, 
indeed, every species of sculpture is represented in the different 
apartments. We expect to visit the Vatican again, and I may 
mention some of the contents in detail. 

We next went to Trajan's Forum, the only visible remains of 
which are granite columns of immense size, mostly broken, and a 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 95 

perfect column, one hundred and fifteen feet high, consisting of 
thirty-three pieces of marble, covered with bas-reliefs, repre- 
senting the victories of Trajan (a statue of St. Peter replaces 
that of the Emperor), flags of the old pavement, mutilated statues 
and empty pedestals. These were all buried with rubbish to the 
depth of fifteen to twenty feet, and were excavated in the early 
part of the present century. We returned to our hotel by way 
of the Fontana di Trevi, which, in its day, must have been a 
beautiful fountain. 

13th, Sunday. — We went to the English Church in the morning, 
and were not pleased with the services. Remained at home in 
the afternoon, and read one of Alexander's sermons. 

14th. — We went this morning to the ruins of the Forum 
Romanum, at which place state affairs were discussed by the 
Romans, and from the rostrum (so-called from the columna 
rostrata, which was adorned with the beaks of ships taken in the 
first naval victory gained by the Romans in the Punic wars), 
harangues were delivered by the orators. The head of Cicero was 
stuck upon the rostrum after his assassination by order of Antony, 
in mockery of his eloquence. The Forum, when ancient Rome 
was at- the full tide of her glory, was the centre of business. It 
was surrounded by temples, palaces, statues, arches, columns, courts 
of justice, and shops, some of which remained until the eleventh 
century, when they were destroyed and covered by soil, under 
which they now lie twenty feet deep. Some five hundred years 
before Christ, the Forum was a -marsh, and was drained into the 
sewer running under it. It was here that the beautiful Virginia, 
on her way to school, was seized by the Decemvir, Appius 
Claudius; and here, near the temple, she was stabbed by her 
father, with a knife snatched from the shambles, to save her from 
a fate worse than death. This event led to the triumph of the 
commons and the reestablishment of the Tribunes. The story of 
Virginia is one of much interest. Among the existing remains 
which have been excavated, are the Arch of Septimus Severus, foun- 
dation walls of the capitol, three columns of the Temple of Vespa- 



96 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THROUGH 

sian (or of Jupiter Tonans), arid eight granite columns of the Temple 
of Fortune (called also Saturn and Vespasian). Here one real- 
izes that he is in ancient Rome ; and these emblems of the mighty 
past, which stand in all their overwhelming dignity, convey to 
his senses some idea of its former greatness. The fragments of 
the crumbling walls lie scattered around the slender pillars of the 
sunken temple, which, in proud and graceful dignity, reared their 
heads toward the heavens. " Even like holy thoughts in the mind 
of one whose spiritual might and beauty, and whose unshaken 
trust no change of fate can shake, nor any earthly power destroy." 
After examining these, we went into the Mamertine and Tul- 
lian prisons, very near-by. The part above ground is made of 
large blocks of uncemented tufa, and is forty-five by eighteen 
feet. Under this is a dungeon, lighted by an opening through 
the top, by which prisoners were let down. St. Peter is said 
to have been confined here, and the post is pointed out 
to which he was chained ; also a well, said to have sprung up 
miraculously, to aiiord water for him to baptize his fellow-pris- 
oners. Unfortunately for these Roman Catholic stories, history 
proves their existence before St. Peter came to Rome. There 
is also shown something resembling the impression of a face on 
the rock, which the guide assured us was that of St. Peter, caused 
by his face coming in contact witji the rock while going into the 
prison. A chapel has been built in this prison ; the custodian 
belongs, of course, to some of the orders of the Church. After 
.giving the usual franc we departed, and next went to the Arch 
of Janus Quadrefrons, and from there to the great main sewer of 
old Rome, which is said to be large enough for a cart loaded with 
hay to drive through. Its preservation is wonderful. We drove 
around the Palatine Hill, from which we had a good view of the 
Palace of the Ceasars and Circus of Maximus. We also passed 
under the Arch of Constantine, built of materials taken from the 
Arch of Trajan, to commemorate the victory over Maxentius at 
Ponte Molle ; a little further on, the Coliseum, in all its grandeur 
and majesty, burst upon our view, and with it a great torrent of 



GBEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 97 

thoughts of the long past swept through our memory ; when its 
three tiers, rising one above the other and resting upon lofty 
arches, were crowded with eighty-seven thousand human beings, 
gazing upon the bloody games, and sending forth their wild shouts 
when some unfortunate and, perhaps noble, prisoner of war, who 
had been borne away from his country, his aged parents, or per- 
chance a wife and children, either killed the wild beast — furious in- 
deed, and blood-thirsty, but less so than this mighty throng of hu- 
man spectators — or was himself destroyed in the gladiatorial contest. 
Now all is still. In the arena, where so many terrible contests 
took place, the grass grows and the flowers bloom brightly. The 
song of birds is heard where the death-cry once broke upon the 
air ; and the Cross, the emblem of peace and assurance of the 
ultimate triumph of Christianity and the elevation of man, is now 
planted in the very centre of the arena in which so many of the 
early Christians sealed their faith with their blood. 

When one stands and gazes upon this stupendous work, and his 
thoughts go back into the past and forward into the future, he 
forgets his individuality ; a single lifetime appears but as a day, 
as he thinks of the history of nations which have left but foot- 
prints of their existence behind. The Coliseum embraces six 
acres. It was commenced by Vespasian, finished by Titus, A. D. 
81, and dedicated by him about ten years after the destruction of 
Jerusalem, and in the same year in which he died. Sixty thou- 
sand Jews, prisoners brought from Jerusalem, were employed on 
it nearly ten years. It could seat eighty-seven thousand specta- 
tors, and had standing-room on the upper tier for twelve thousand. 
Gladiatorial exhibitions took place in it for the space of nearly 
four hundred years. They were abolished by Honorius. During 
the persecution of the Christians this amphitheatre was the scene 
of fearful barbarities. At its dedication by Titus, five thousand 
wild beasts and ten thousand captives are said to have been slain. 
The inauguration lasted one hundred days. It is built of brick, 
faced by travertine stone blocks, and measures six hundred and 
eighteen by five hundred and thirteen feet from wall to wall (it being 

5 



98 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

of oval shape), and eighteen hundred and twenty round. The arena 
(so-called from the sand), was one hundred and eighty by two 
hundred and eighty-seven feet ; four principal corridors go round 
it, between which are staircases and ways to the arena and seats, 
by means of eighty openings or archways, each fourteen and a 
half feet. The best seats were for the Emperor, praetors, consuls, 
vestal virgins, &c. The next tier above was appropriated to 
the masses, and the one above that to the women and slaves. At 
Trajan's triumph, ten thousand gladiators fought in the arena. 
The arena was so arranged that it could be filled with water, and 
on such occasions naval combats took place„ This is among the most 
perfectly preserved ruins of ancient Kome, and would have been in 
a much better state of preservation had not its materials been torn 
down and used for other buildings. The Venerable Bede records 
this prophecy as uttered by the old Anglo-Saxon pilgrims:* 
"While stands the Ooliseiiin, Eome shall stand ; 

When falls the Coliseum, Kome shall fall ; 

And when Eome falls, the world." 

We extended our drive to St. Paul's, one mile and a quarter 
outside of the city. This church was built by Gregory XVI. 
and Pius IX. , on the site of one commenced by Constantine 
over the supposed tomb of the Apostle Paul, which was built 
here about A, D. 251. This was burned in 1824. It is four 
hundred feet long, and two hundred and Iwenty-five feet wide 
and is divided into five aisles, by eighty pillars of Baveno mar- 
ble and granite, in single blocks, two of which support an 
arch over the altar, dedicated to the sister of Plonorius, who 
completed the former church. Unlike most of the churches here, 
it has no side chapels. The alabaster pillars of the high altar 
were presented by the Pasha of Eg^pt (infidel), and a malachite 
altar in the transept by the Emperor of Russia (heretic). The 
granite pillars of the nave are from the Emperor of Austria ; a Jew 

* Bede records this prophecy in Latin as one spoken by some Auglo- 
Saxon, who in his day made frequent pilgrimages from the British 
islands to Eome. The quotation is Byron's version of it. 



GKEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 99 

bequeathed a large sura to support the church ; the King of Hol- 
land gave fifty thousand francs toward its erection. The exterior 
is plain and unprepossessing in its appearance, while the interior is 
rich and beautiful. Tradition says that St. Paul's body was re- 
moved here from the Vatican in A. D. 251. Timothy is said 
also to be buried here. On our return home we went into a 
very old church, into which is incorporated eight fluted Corin- 
thian marble columns, and a great mass of travertine which be- 
longed to the temple of Ceres and Proserpine. Opposite to this 
are the ruins of the temple of Vesta. After returning I went out 
and hired a piano, as Sade wished to practise. We met ]\irs 

C 1, of New York, a most agreeable and interesting lady, 

whom we had met before in America. 

ISih. The Capitoline Museum was the first to receive our 
respects this morning. Its contents are mostly old statuary, some 
of which is perfect, while much is broken and disfigured. The 
Dying Gladiator is the masterpiece of the museum, and some say 
of the world. One apartment is devoted to the busts of dis- 
tinguished ancients, among which we saw Julius Cassar, Cassar 
Augustus, Trajan, Vespasian, Titus, Nero, Socrates, Cicero, 
Plato, and many others whose names live in history. In the 
court are a number of statues. Among them Castor and Pollux, 
two colossal statues, standing by their horses, Constantine and 
his son, and a fine equestrian figure of Marcus Aurelius. We 
crossed over into the picture gallery, but the day was so dark we 
soon left for the hotel. 

16M-. We made a second visit to the Vatican this morning. 
On entering the Court we learned that the Pope would pass into 
the palace in a short time. We went into an ante-room, and 
examined the elevator by which he is taken up into his rooms, 
We then returned to the court, and stood near the door through 
which he would enter ; he soon arrived, and as we were very 
near, we had a good view of him; he raised his hand and 
bestowed a blessing upon us as he passed. We then went into 
the Vatican, and by a special permit went through the rooms of 
the mosaic works, and saw the pictures being made ; this was, of 



100 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THBOUGH 

course, very interesting to us. We next went through the^library, 
entering first a large and beautiful room with many curious things 
in it, and then passing into a hall running across the end of this, 
and of great length. This also contains many works of art : the 
books and manuscripts are inclosed in cases. In it we saw the font 
in which the present Prince Imperial of France was christened. 
The walls of these rooms are beautifully frescoed. We next passed 
through the Loggie and Stanze of Raphael, containing frescoes and 
paintings by him, and then into the room of the dogma of the 
Immaculate Conception, the paintings of which are on the walls 
and ceilings. Many of these are portraits of the dignitaries present 
on the occasion of the promulgation of the dogma. Adam and 
Eve, the Flood, the Crucifixion, and many other Scriptural 
scenes are represented. The execution is admirable, and the 
room a beautiful one. It is, of course, new. Adjoining 
this is another room, containing some new pictures, and intended 
as we were informed, for pictures of newly-canonized saints. 
We also went through the tapestry rooms, in which are maps of 
Italy painted on the walls, and the ceilings covered with frescoes. 
17th. The Pope's blessing does not seem to have benefited us 
much, at least in health, for none of us are feeling very well this 
morning. We have, however, a good day's work laid out, and 
must finish it. We went first to the Borghese Palace, in which 
there is a large collection of paintings. Among those that we noticed 
the most carefully, were Raphael's Holy Family ; Madonna, 
Child and Angel, by A. del Sarto ; same by Carlo Dolce, and the 
Chase of Diana by Domenichino, a copy of which we purchased. 
We proceeded from here to the Spada Palace, in which is a 
statue of Pompey and a few paintings. We were not interested 
here, and next visted the Corsini Palace, where we had a 
special privilege granted to go through the private apartments. 
These were commodious and elegant, except the carpets which 
were very common, and not in keeping with the rooms and furni- 
ture. There are many good pictures in the gallery, among which 
are four exquisite views of Venice, by Canaletto ; the Pestilence 
in Milan, the Finding of Moses, the Madonna and Child, by 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 101 

Carlo Dolce; the Madonna and Child, St. Catherine and 
Four Angels, by Carlo Maratta, and a Madonna and Child 
by Murillo. There are, of course, a great many other pictures 
in these galleries, some possessing greater merits than the 
ones named, but I only mention those that pleased me most. We 
next drove to the top of the Golden Hill, so called from the yellow 
color of the earth, from which we had a fine view of the city. 
"While there we went into the church of St. Pietro in Montorio, 
said to have been founded by Constantine, near the spot where 
St. Peter was crucified. Beatrice Cenci is said to have been 
buried here. We went from here to the Church of Jesu, the 
principal church of the Jesuits, and one of the most richly deco- 
rated churches in Rome. In it are some good paintings ; some of 
the chapels are very rich. We next drove to St. Maria sopra 
Minerva, so called from standing on the site of the Temple of 
Minerva, which was dedicated by Pompey after his victories in 
Asia. The Church was repaired in 1849, and is magnificently 
gaudy. In it are some good pictures. We then rode to St. 
Agostino, which was undergoing repairs. A marble statute of 
the Virgin and Child stands near to the door which is almost 
entirely covered over with gold, silver, and precious stones — the 
gifts of devotees. In the church are some frescoes by Raphael. 
We drove from here to the Pantheon. This almost perfect relic 
of ancient Rome was erected by Agrippa, twenty-seven years 
before Christ, and was restored by Septimus Severus and Car- 
acalla, a. d. 608. The interior is a rotunda, covered by a dome. 
The rotunda is one hundred and forty-two feet in diameter, ex- 
clusive of the walls, which are twenty feet in thickness. The 
height from the pavement to the summit is one hundred and forty- 
three feet, the dome occupying one half of the height. Forsyth 
says " it is more than faultless ; it is positively the most sublime 
result that ever was produced by so little architecture." Raphael 
was buried here ; we, of course, saw his tomb. The structure 
is of brick, and was probably faced with marble. The portico is 
one hundred and three feet wide and seventy feet deep ; it has 



102 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

three rows of columns, each forty-seven feet high, and of granite 
in a single piece, with marble base and capital. It was at one 
time adorned with gilding, bronzes, and statuary. The bronzes 
were used to cast cannon for the Castle of St. Angelo, and for the 
canopy of St. Peter's altar. In 608, it was converted into a 
church. Mr. and Mrs. D , of New York, called on us. 

18th. — Rained all day, which afforded us an opportunity to 
rest. 

IQth. — We visited to-day the Sciarra Palace. The gallery is 
small, but contains some fine paintings. We noticed "St. John'* 
and " St. Mark" by G. Guercino ; "The Violin Player," a small 
picture, and one of Raphael's earliest works, date 1518 ; " Con- 
jugal Love," by A. Caracci ; " Modesty and Vanity," by L. 
da Vinci, a fine picture ; *' Magdalene," by Guido, and the "Bella 
Donna," a beautiful picture, by Titian. 

We visited the Church of St. Maria in Via Lata, adjoining the 
Doria Palace. This church, tradition attests, occupies the spot 
where St. Paul lodged with the Centurion. In the old subter- 
ranean church is a spring of water, which, like that in theMam- 
ertine Prison, is said to have sprung up miraculously, to give 
water for the baptism of the fellow -prisoners of Paul, who were 
converted. 

We proceeded to the SS. Apostoli, a church founded in the 
sixth century, and rebuilt in 1420. In this church are one or 
two pieces of fine sculpture by Canova, and some good pictures. 
We visited the Palace Colonna. The gallery was once the most 
considerable in Rome ; it has been much reduced by divisions 
among the outgoing branches of the family. * It still contains 
some fine works of art, which are arranged in a series of rooms 
leading to the hall or gallery, for which the palace is so celebrated. 
It is certainly a splendid room — thought to be the finest in Ronae. 
It is of considerable length, with arch-ceilings richly frescoed, 
representing the deeds of the Colonna family. Among the paint- 
ings are " St. Agnes," by Guido ; an ''Assumption," by Reubens ; 
"Adam and Eve in the Garden," by Salviati, and four figures 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 103 

representing Poetry, Music, Painting, and Sculpture — all very- 
beautiful. In one of the rooms is a magnificent cabinet, with 
twenty-seven bas-reliefs in ivory, -copied from IVr. Angelo's "Last 
Judgment," and twenty-six of Eaphael's subjects in the Loggie 
We next visited the Quirinal Palace, once the summer residence 
of the Popes. In it the Popes have been elected for many years 
past, and from the balcony over the principal entrance the new 
pontiffs name is announced to the people. It was from this 
palace that Pius VII. was forcibly taken by order of Napoleon I. 
in 1809, and from it the present Pope was obliged to fly in 1849, 
when it was invested by the revolutionists. It contains many 
good paintings and some tapestries. Guido's " Annunciation" 
is considered one of the best pieces in it. Among others of merit 
are "Peter and Paul;" "The Birth of the Virgin," by Peter 
Cortona ; and in tapestry, " St. Stephen," " The Miraculous 
Draft of Fishes," " The Last Supper," and " The Washing of 
Feet." We saw the apartments occupied by the Popes. After 
leaving the house we passed through the gardens and grounds, 
which are laid out with considerable taste, and well kept. We 
next went to the Palace Barberini, one of the largest in Rome, 
containing a small gallery and library. Some of the paintings 
are of the highest order of art. " Adam and Eve driven from 
the Garden of Paradise," by Domenichino, and "The Schiava, or 
Slave," .by Titian, are very fine. There are also portraits of 
Lucrezia Cenci, mother of Beatrice ; Beatrice Cenci, by Guide 
— the latter one of the most celebrated portraits in Rome ; 
a "Fornarina," by Raphael (very unlike the one I saw in the 
tribune in the gallery at Florence), and " A Holy Family," by 
A. del Sarto. We did not go into the Library. 

The Cappucini, or St. Maria della Congezione, is celebrated for 
its picture of the Archangel Michael, by Guido — classed among 
his best works, and which Forsyth calls the Catholic Apollo ; it 
is certainly a beautiful picture. We next visited St. Maria della 
Vittoria, a rich and elegant church, containing some fine speci- 
mens of sculpture — one piece in particular by Bernini. Sus- 



104 JOTJENAL OF A TOUK THROUGH 

pended from its ceilings are a number of Turkish flags captured 
at the naval victory at Lepanto in 1571. 

We finished our hard day's work at St. Maria del Angeli, one 
among the largest churches in Rome ; it stands upon a part of 
the site of the Baths of Diocletian ; a part of the ruins, which 
were standing, were incorporated into the church. Of the sixteen 
columns, eight belonged to the old baths and stand in their original 
position. They are of red Egyptian granite, in one block, six- 
teen feet in circumference and forty-five feet high. In this church 
are several large paintings which were once altar-pieces at St. 
Peter's. They have been replaced by mosaics. There are 
numerous other pictures in it, and altogether it is an interesting 
place. We returned to our hotel quite tired out, and in a perfect 
state of bewilderment, with palaces, churches, statuary, paintings, , 
and numerous other things, floating around us, with the notes of 
our Journal looming up before me like dark visions of a troubled 
dream. 

2Qth, Sunday. — We attended public worship at the American 
Chapel, morning and afternoon, and heard good sermons. Many 
persons could not get seats in the morning and had to leave. 

2lst. — We started out after breakfast for another day's hard 
work, and first went to Santa Pudenziana, a small and plain, 
but very old church, said to be the most ancient church 
foundation in Rome, and built on the site of a senator's palace, 
whose two daughters received and entertained St. Paul. We 
next went to Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the four chief ba- 
silicas, after St. Peter's, and the third in rank, and one of those 
which have a Porta Santa. Founded about 352, it was enlarged 
in 432 on its present plan, and has been preserved amidst 
all the subsequent reparations. The campanile, or bell-tower, 
is the best preserved of any of the old towers in Rome. A fresco 
around the tomb of Pius Y. represents, among other events, his 
sending assistance to Charles IX. of France, for the persecution of 
the Protestants. The church is two hundred and eighty feet long 
by one hundred wide, and has three naves, divided by forty-four 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 105 

marble Ionic columns, which belonged to the Temple of Juno 
Lucini ; it is paved in the Alexandrine style ; some of the mosaics 
are supposed to be of the fifth century. The ceiling was gilded 
with a part of the first supply of gold which came from America 
to the Spanish Court, and was presented to Alexander VI. by 
Ferdinand and Isabella. It was rebuilt in 1825. The Chapels 
Sextus V. and Borghe are very large, and most elegantly 
finished and decorated, and are probably the grandest in Rome, or, 
perhaps, the world. The present Pope is to be buried in this 
church, in a splendid crypt, built in honor of the promulgation of 
the Assumption, adorned with marble, gilding, lapis lazuli, and 
other precious stones. The Presepio Chapel contains what are said 
to be the boards of the manger in which our Savior was laid, and 
what surprised me much was that the custode who gave us this 
information really seemed to believe it. The remains of St. 
Matthew are said to lie here. 

From this interesting church we went to St. Martino, a fine 
church restored in 1650, on the site of one of the sixth century. 
It has a subterranean chapel or oratory, in which the remains of 
Popes Sylvester and Martin are kept, and under this is a part of 
the original church, reached by a sort of inclined plane On 
going down, May slipped and fell, and was considerably bruised. 

We next went to S. Giovanni in Laterano (St. John of Lateran), 
one of the four chief basilicas. It stands on the site of the house 
of the Senator Plautius Lateranus, who, according to Tacitus, 
was put to death by Nero for being implicated in the cons-piracy 
of Piso. It afterward passed to the family of Marcus Aureliuss 
who was born near the place. Constantine, in the fourth century, 
gave the house to the Bishop of Rome for an Episcopal residence. 
He afterward founded the basilica, and assistec' with his own 
hands in digging the foundation. It takes preceaence in point of 
sanctity over St. Peter's. An inscription ending with Omnium 
urhis et 'orhio Ecdesiarum Mater et Caput (The Mother and Mistress 
of all the Churches of the city and the world) runs around the 
principal fagade. The coronation of the Popes takes place in it. 

5* 



106 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH . 

It was nearly destroyed by fire in the pontificate of Clement V., 
but was restored by that Pope, and enlarged by Clement VIII., 
Innocent X., and Clement XII. It is built of travertine, and 
has four large columns and six pilasters, sustaining a massive 
entablature and balustrade, on which are placed colossal statues 
of our Savior and ten saints. There are five balconies between 
the columns and pilasters. The Pope gives his benediction to the 
people, on Ascension Day, from the central one. In the vestibule 
is a colossal statue of Constantine, found at his baths. There 
are five doors leading to the basilica. The Porta Santa is bricked 
up. This is opened every twenty-five years at the Jubilee. 
Dante was present when Boniface proclaimed the Jubilee, A. D. 
1300. 

The interior consists of a nave with two aisles on each side, 
separated by four rows of piers. ' Those in the nave, in which the 
columns of the old basilica are encased, are pierced with niches 
which contain statues of the Apostles. Above these are twelve 
bas-reliefs of Scripture subjects, from the Old and New Testaments. 
The church is rich in statuary, bronzes and paintings, and 
has many fine chapels ; but its greatest ornament is the Corsini 
Chapel, built by Clement XII. Nothing, says a writer, can 
surpass the magnificence of this beautiful structure. The richest 
marbles, the most elaborate ornaments and gilding, columns of 
precious marble, bas-reliefs, and even gems, have been lavished 
on its decoration with a profusion quite without a parallel in any 
other private chapel in Rome, except that, perhaps, of the Borghese 
family, or St. Maria Maggiore. The cost is said to be £400,000. 
The porphyry sarcophagus, which forms the tomb of Clement XII. , 
formerly stood under the portico of the Pantheon. 

The high altar of the basilica stands beneath a magnificent 
Gothic tabernacle, supported by four columns of gray marble and 
granite. It was erected in the reign of Urban V., and partly at 
the expense of Charles V. of France, to receive the heads of St. 
Peter and St. Paul, which were said to have been found during his 
reign among the ruins of the old church. 



GEEAT BEITAIN AOT) ON THE CONTINENT. 107 

Within the high altar is enclosed a table of wood, upon which 
St. Peter is said to have officiated. Near the altar of the holy 
mcrament is a recess in which a table is shown as that on which 
the Last Siqjper was laid. It is of cedar wood, and was once 
enclosed in silver. It would require more pages than I. can spare 
to give a full description of this church, and a large amount of faith • 
to believe the traditional stories connected with it. I must, 
therefore, stop here. 

The hapiistery belonging to the church was erected by Con- 
stantine. It is an octagonal building of brick, sixty-five feet in 
diameter. The roof is supported internally by eight columns of 
white marble resting upon a cornice which runs round the building, 
and which is supported by eight larger columns of red porphyry. 
The font, which is large enough to contain fifty persons, is sunk 
below the pavement,' and was evidently intended for immersion. 
At* a subsequent date a small urn of green basalt supported by a 
pillar was raised in the centre of the original font, which, since 
sprinkling was introduced, answers a better purpose, and is called 
the font. Near the door of the eastern entrance are two very 
large porphyiy columns half buried in the walls. The frescoing 
represents different scenes in the lives of John the Baptist and 
Constantine. Two small chapels open out of the baptistery, one 
dedicated to John the Baptist, and the other to St. John the 
Evangelist. The ceiling is covered with mosaics of the fifth 
century. The baptistery is now used on the Sunday before Easter 
for baptizing converted Jews. There were none baptized this 
year. 

The Scala Sancta (holy stairs) under a portico on the north 
side of the church, consist of twenty-eight marble steps, stated by 
church tradition to have belonged to Pilate's house, and to have 
been the identical ones which our Savior descended when he left 
the judgment-seat. They are only allowed to be ascended by 
penitents on their knees. In the Gothic chapel at the summit, 
called the Sancta Sanctorum, is a painting of our Savior, five feet 
eight inches in height, said by judges to be of Greek wormanship, 



108 JOUENAL OF A TOUK THROUGH 

but, like so many others, attributed to St. Luke, arid said to he a 
likeness of our Saviour at twelve years old. Those who ascend 
these steps on their knees, praying (to the Virgin as they go up, 
of course), get twenty-eight years indulgence. 

We went through the Lateran museums, containing marbles, 
paintings, etc. Among the former is the Braschi Antinous, 
from the Villa Adriana, eleven feet high, for which Gregory 
XVI. paid eleven thousand crowns. Attached to this department 
is the Museum of Christian Antiquities, founded in 1854, by the 
present Pope. It contains a collection of inscriptions, sarcophagi, 
and frescoes, from the early Christian graves in the catacombs. 
There is also in it the famous statue of St. Hippolytus, the 
martyr, a disciple of Irenius, and Bishop of Portus, in the third 
century. Portus was the northern mouth of the Tiber, where a 
tower of the church of St. Hippolytus still remains. It was 
found in 1551, and identified by a Greek inscription. 

We drove next to the ruins of the aqueduct, at the gate Mag- 
giore, near which is a monument, of ancient construction, to the 
chief baker of the city — the arch of Giuliano, after which, we 

returned to our hotel. Mr. and Mrs. M e, of New York, 

dined with us ; we met them at Paris and again at Nice. Mrs. 
M. is an exceedingly entertaining lady, full of vivacity, and scat- 
tering sunshine all around her. 

22cZ. A bright and sunny day once more, and we determined 
to make the most of it. We drove first to the Doria Parafili 
Palace, which came through the Pamfili family to the Dorias 
of Genoa.- This is, I think, the largest private palace in Rome. 
The gallery is composed of fifteen rooms, and contains about eight 
hundred pictures, among them some beautiful landscapes by 
Poussin and Claude Lorraine ; one of them, by Claude, is the 
finest picture I have yet seen ; the Sacrifice of Abraham, by Titian ; 
Lucrezia Borgia, by P. Veronese ; Machiavelli, by A. del Sarto ; 
a beautiful Magdalen, by Titian, and six small pictures, by Breau- 
ghel, a German artist, representing the creation of Eve, Garden 
of Eden, the Four Elements, wind, water, earth, and fire. These, 
I think, are little gems. 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 109 

We drove next to the Villa of Albani, the grounds of which are 
yeiy tastefully laid out, and from which we had a fine view of the 
Alban Hills and Apennines. The Casino contains a large collec- 
tion of marbles, among which is the Basket-bearing (Caryatides, 
also Diogenes in his Tub. There is a small number of paintings 
and the ceiling of the main saloon is handsomely frescoed. 

23d. St. Ignazio, on the site of the Temple of Juterna, was the 
first place visited by us to-day. The frescoing of the ceilings repre- 
sents the four quarters of the globe. We went next to the Cap- 
itol gallery, composed of two rooms, in which are some good 
paintings, among them a portrait of Guido, by himself, and his 
beatified spirit ascending to Paradise, and Guercino's Sibilla 
Persica. Sade and I went to the Tarpeian Kock, only a small 
portion of which is visible. From here we went to the Galleiy 
of St. Luke, containing a good collection of paintings ; some of 
which are kept covered, as the subjects are not considered proper 
for the public gaze. 

From the gallery we went down into the church, and under it 
into a still lower one, in which are some tombs. After leaving, 
we went to the ruins of the Temple of Mars altar, the wall of the 
Forum of Augustus, and then to St. Pietro in Yincoli (St. Peter 
in chains), said to contain the chains with which St. Peter 
was bound while in prison. In it also is the famous statue 
of Moses, by M. Angelo. The young Jew, Mortara, who was 
forcibly taken from his parents and baptized, lives here, in the 
dress of a rochettino. We next went to the Palace Rospigliosi, on 
the site of the Baths of Constantine. Guido's celebrated fresco 
of Aurora is on the ceiling of a pavilion in the garden, and also some 
good paintings. One, which particularly rivetted our attention, 
was Domenichino's "David Returning v/ith Goliah's Head;" all 
the figures are most beautifully delineated ; that of Saul, so 
vividly expressing the passions of jealousy and hatred, occasioned 
by his witnessing the adulations and honors conferred upon the 
valiant conqueror, David, is admirable. Another good picture is 
Sampson destroying the temple and the Philistines. 



110 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

24:th. — We visited the ruins of the Palace of the Cassars, on the 
Palatine Hill. These fragments of former grandeur, which have 
bid defiance to the storms of centuries, and are to-day witnesses to 
the mighty revolutions of the past, are of immense extent, and 
bear evidence to the boundless wealth and power of their builders 
and occupants. This hill is about one and a half miles in circum- 
ference. The soil is composed of crumbling fragments of masonry 
to the depth of many feet. The surface is occupied with gardens 
and vineyards. The greater part of the ruins now exposed to 
view, was excavated by Napoleon III., who purchased a part of 
the hill in 1861, and has since been excavating on a large scale, 
and laying open what remains of the dwellings of the Caesars. 

No description that could be written would g^ve any correct or 
clear idea of these immense ruins, covering, as they do, many acres. 
In magnitude and splendor they exceed our comprehension. Many 
of the ruins show evidence of having been built at different periods, 
some evidently upon the foundations of former buildings, which 
had been partially buried or covered with soil ; parts of those 
uncovered, have been identified by early historical descriptions. 
In many places the excavations extend to the depth of thirty or 
forty feet before the ruins are reached ; they themselves go down 
four and five stories lower. The frescoes and mosaics in some 
of the apartments are in a good state of preservation. 

We drove to the part of the same ruins which the pontifical 
government are excavating on a smaller scale ; some of these are 
of an earlier period than those excavated by the Emperor of the 
French, aud are in as good a state of preservation. Some of 
the frescoes are very perfect, as are also the mosaics on the 
ceilings and floors. It is difficult to realize while looking at them, 
that for a thousand years they were buried under the earth. 

25tk. — We drove to the baths of Caracalla, outside of the city 
gates. These occupy an area of about one hundred and forty 
thousand square yards, or nearly a mile in circuit, and are the most 
perfect of the kind in Rome. The rooms are numerous, and many 
of them of great size. They contain one thousand six hundred 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. Ill 

separate bathing-places, besides large basins of granite and por- 
phyry. There was also a library or reading-room, and other 
rooms for exercise after bathing. The bath, properly speaking, 
was seven hundred and twenty feet long by three hundred and 
seventy-five wide, in the centre of a large square, surrounded by 
porticoes, gardens, a stadium, and large reservoir. The walls are 
of great thickness. It seems impossible that such a large room 
could have been spanned by arches' of brick and stone, extending 
no higher than these do. The mosaic floors in some places are 
in perfect preservation, and are very beautiful. It was among 
these ruins that Shelley wrote his " Prometheus Unbound." 

We extended our drive some five miles over the Via Appia, 
(Appian Way), built three hundred and twelve years before 
Christ. This was the principal line of communication which 
led from the capital of the Roman world, and was remarkable for 
the number and magnificence of the sepulchral monuments which 
lined the road. But little remain of these monuments except im- 
mense piles of masonry, the rudest drawings of which would con- 
vey a more correct idea of them than any description which 
could be written. We saw the tomb of the Scipios, situated 
just outside the gate of St. Sebastian, and the arch of Drusus. 
Ws went into the basilica St. Sebastian, from which we de- 
scended into the Catacomb or Cemetery of St. Calixtus, through 
several long and dark subterranean passages, in which we saw 
some tombs and inscriptions. We saw, also, the tumuli called 
the Tombs of the Horatii and Curatii, but, I believe, upon 
doubtful evidence. This is the road over which St. Paul passed 
in coming to Rome, a poor, friendless prisoner, in chains. Eigh- 
teen hundred years have passed — these monuments to the rulers 
of the world, the great, and the mighty, have crumbled and 
fallen, and the names which they were built to comraemoiate have 
perished. Now, upon their ruins, and those of their living 
abodes, stand other magnificent monuments in honor of this poor 
prisoner, whose name is a household word to millions. " For 
the Lord knoweth the way of the righteous, but the way of the 
ungodly shall perish." 



112 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

We had an extensive view of the Campagna, that vast plain on 
which so many great battles have been lost and won, and on 
which the world's destinies have hinged. No tree, scarcely even 
a shrub was to be seen, as far as the eye could reach. Frag- 
ments of the old aqueducts, resting on high arches, covered 
in places, with the dark green ivy, were seen at intervals, and 
extending beyond the reach of the eye. Scarcely a human 
dwelling was to be seen on the Campagna, owing to its unhealth- 
fulness. A very small proportion of the land is cultivated. A few 
herds of cattle, and numerous droves of sheep, attended by the 
pifferari or shepherds, were feeding upon the rich grass. The distant 
Alban Hills, dotted over with numerous towns, and summits 
steeped in purple, bounded the view on one side, while on the 
opposite lay the city, with its numerous domes and spires looking 
up toward the blue sky. An almost dreary stillness reigned 
around, and although the picture was lovely, one cannot but 
gaze sorrowfully upon it. Why is this once fertile Campagna, 
which furnished sustenance for millions, now a vast, unculti- 
vated tract, with its deadly malaria resting like a pall over it ? 
" There, in the Vatican, lies the solution of the whole riddle ; the 
cause of all the silence and desolation." Not only the Cam- 
pagna, but Rome itself, but for the strangers who visit it, would 
soon become an abode for owls and bats. The union of Church 
and State is alike fatal to both. "My kingdom is not of this 
world." 

2Qth. — Visited St. Clement, one of the earliest Christian 
churches built in Rome. The present edifice, which is \q,yj old, 
was built over the ruins of a former one, and that upon the 
ruins of another building almost as old as Rome itself. Recent 
excavations have opened both of these buildings. In the middle 
one are frescoes representing early Christianity, which are well 
preserved. In the lower are three walls, that belong respectively 
to three distinct periods of the history of Pagan Rome — the im- 
perial, republican, and kingly. The work of excavation is still 
progressing. From these relics of by-gone ages we turned away 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 113 

to things modern, and were much pleased with some beautiful 
specimens of statuary at the studios of Mr. Rogers and Mr. 
Mosier. The works of these artists were all sold, which we re- 
gretted, as we should have liked to have had some of them. 

^Ith, Sunday. — We^ attended service at the American Chapel 
in the morning. 

28^A, — Made a second visit to the Borghese Palace, and after 
having enjoyed another walk through the galleries, went to St. 
Peter's, and spent an hour in viewing again its matchless archi- 
tectural beauties. We then drove to the Corsini Palace, went 
through the gallery, and returned to our hotel. 

2%th. — In the morning all of us went up on the cupola of St. 
Peter's. There are two corridors around the interior, which 
none but persons of strong nerve should look over, unless they 
wish to be made fearfully dizzy. It is from these corridors that 
a correct idea of the size of the cupola can be formed. The top 
of the cupola is surrounded on the outside by a balcony, from 
which a magnificent view of the surrounding country can be had 
when the atmosphere is clear, but unfortunately it was foggy, and 
we could not see far. I went up some twenty feet above the bal- 
cony into the ball, which is difficult of access, and does not repay 
the effort, as no view can be had from it. 

We drove to the Pantheon, (before described), after which we 
went to the Doria Palace, going through the gallery for a second 
time, which we enjoyed even more than the first. 

^Qth. — We drove to the Pinico Hill, and while there witnessed 
a race between two horses, around the course belonging to the 
Borghese Villa (which lay just under us). The race, we learned, 
was made between an English and American gentleman. The 
Englishman was the winner. 

We drove out of the city, and over a part of the Via Latin a, or 
Latin Way, on which, among others, we saw two sepulchral 
monuments but recently excavated, and which are "in a better 
state of preservation than any we have seen. They are supposed 
to be not less than two thousand years old, and yet some of the 



114 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

frescoing is as perfect, and the colors as bright as that in our 
room at the hotel. In one is a large stone sarcophagus, contain- 
ing two skeletons. The frescoing represents mythological sub- 
jects. In the first room, as you enter, one of them is a well of 
water. Only a small part of this road has been excavated. The 
excavations of 1858 led to the discovery of the basilica of St. 
Stephen, situated about two hundred yards back from the road, 
founded in the middle of the fifth century. One of the inscrip- 
tions dug out refers to the foundation of the primitive Church 
by Dimitria, a member of the JErician family. The ground- 
plans show that it was similar to the sacred edifices of the same 
period. At the north side pf the nave is a square baptistery, with 
a sunken font in the centre, evidently for baptism by immersion. We 
stopped, on our return, at the baths of Titus, which were erected 
in the gardens of Nero's golden house. A, D. 80, .and which were 
four hundred feet long by six hundred in extent. Many of the 
walls are in excellent preservation. 

^\st. — We went again to the Vatican, and were more pleased 
with the statuary than on our first visit. We saw among the 
endless variety, the Apollo Belvedere, the Boxers, and Perseus 
with the head of Medusa, which rank among the finest speci- 
mens of ancient sculpture. The room of animals contains a great 
variety of wonderfully executed pieces. In another room is a vase 
of enormous size, found in Nero's palace, and a colossal bronze 
statue of Hercules, found on the site of the Pompeiian theatre. 
In a room near this are two sarcophagi of porphyry, as perfect 
as if just finished. These contained the relics of the Empress 
Helena (mother of Constantine), and Constantia, her daughter. 
In another room is a large and splendid specimen of mosaic. 

From the halls of statuary we went again to the gallery of 
paintings. Three paintings, considered the finest in the gallery, 
have one room devoted exclusively to them. The "Transfigura- 
tion," by Raphael, his last and generally admitted his master- 
piece ; " Madonna Foligno," by Raphael also ; and the " Com- 
munion of St. Jerome," by Domenichino. In the adjoinining 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 115 

room, through which we passed to reach this, is the " The Mar- 
riage of St, Catherine of Alexandria" and " The Return of the 
Prodigal Son," both by Murillo, very beautiful pictures, though 
the subject of the first-named seems ridiculous enough. In another 
room is the " Entombment of Our Savior," by Correggio, a grand 
picture. We were, by a mere chance, admitted into a private apart- 
ment, where a representation of the passages and vaults in the 
Catacombs were being made for the Paris Exposition. They 
gave a very perfect idea of the Catacombs, 



116 JOURNAL OF A TOUE THKOUGH 



FEBRUARY. 

1st — We made a second visit to the Museum of Statuary at 
the Capitol, and had another opportunity to examine the *' Dying 
Gladiator." 

•♦ I see before me the Gladiator lie ; 
He leang upon his hand — his manly brow 
Consents to death, but conquers agony, 
And his droop'd head sinks gradually low, 
And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow 
From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, 
Like the first of a thunder-storm ; and now 
The arena swims around hiin — he is gone, 

Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hail'd the wretch who won." 

Childe Harold. 

In examining it, with apparently much curiosity, little Howie 
remarked, " Papa, see how perfect the bottom of the foot is." 
And truly no part of the body is better delineated. We also saw 
the celebrated " Venus of the Capitol," claimed to be the best of 
all the representations of the goddess. We also saw in another 
room Pliny's " Doves," one of the best-preserved specimens of 
ancient mosaic. It represents four doves drinking from an urn, 
with a beautiful border, and is made of natural stones so small 
that one hundred and sixty pieces are contained in a square inch. 

We returned by the way of the Barbarini Palace, and, stop- 
ping, spent half an hour very pleasantly among its pictures. 

2d. — We all went to St. Peter's, to witness the ridiculous cere- 
mony of blessing the candles. Everthing is blessed in Home — 
horses, donkeys, cattle, sheep, pigs, all — except the fleas, and they 
really do not seem to have need of a blessing, as they are allowed 
to go about ad libitum, and live upon whom they please. Seats 
were arranged near the high altar. Ladies are not admitted to 
these unless they are dressed in black and their heads are covered 



GBEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 117 

with a black veil ; and gentlemen, to get in, must wear dress 
coats. Having seen May and Sade safe in this "dress circle,'* 
Howie and I remained in the nave until the Pope was carried 
past in his chair, which was borne by four harlequin looking per- 
sons, preceded by a number of " well-fed" cardinals and other 
Church dignitaries, all in the most ridiculous looking costumes. 
This fantastic procession passed down the length of the church, 
between files of soldiers, who, with the crowds of spectators, fell 
on their knees as the Pope passed. After witnessing this, to me, 
farcical performance (which would have excited feelings of mirth, 
had it occurred anywhere else than in a house professedly dedi- 
cated to the worship of God, and by any other than men claiming 
to be the successors and exemplars of the meek and lowly Jesus), 
Howie and I left, not caring to see the end. 

Sd, Sunday. — Went to the American Chapel in the morning, 
and heard a good sermon from the pastor, and in the afternoon a 
most excellent sermon by Bishop Bedell, from the words, " I am 
the true vine ; ye are the branches." 

Uh. — A bright and beautiful morning. After an early break- 
fast, we drove out to the "meet," the term used here for a fox- 
hunt. . A number of gentlemen have formed themselves into an 
association, and meet twice every week near the city, for a hunt. 
Foxes, I believe, are quite abundant among the hills. They have 
large packs of hounds, and generally start a fox. Large numbers 
of ladies and gentlemen go out in carriages to the point from which 
they start, and many of both sexes go on horseback. It was a 
beautiful sight, to see fifty or sixty, in all sorts of riding costumes, 
galloping over the plains and up and down the hills, with the 
dogs dashing along in every direction. We followed the road in 
our carriage until they disappeared behind the hills, when we 
returned, satisfied with our morning's drive. 

^th. — Kain came down in torrents all day. Selected some stere- 
oscopic views ; read some ; and rested. 

Qth. — A duplicate of yesterday. Nothing accomplished, but 
some shopping. 



118 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

1th. — Spent a part of this morning at the studio of Mr. Tilton. 
We were much pleased with some of his pictures, consisting of 
views of Rome, Venice, Sorrento, and some beautiful landscapes 
of the Campagna. His style of coloring is bright, but so skil- 
fully blended and softened as to make his pictures really beautiful. 
He is a popular artist, and has orders for several years ahead. 
We then visited the studio of Mr. Wilde, where we saw only a 
few paintings, none of which we were much pleased with. We 
then went to the Collegio della Sapienza, in which is a very exten- 
sive collection of minerals and wood. On the floors above is an 
anotoniical museum and a scientific apparatus. 

Sth. — We called on some American friends, and in the after- 
noon drove around Monte Pincio. 

9th. — Visited several studios, and went again through the 
Sciarri and Orsini galleries. 

lOM, Sundaij. — Went to the American Chapel morning and 
afternoon. The morning sermon, by the pastor, was an excellent 
one. Subject, the parable of the tares. 

l\th. — We spent a part of the day in visiting studios and pic- 
ture rooms. Ordered a copy of the " Good Shepherd" from 
Mazzolini (original by Murillo, and now of Madrid.) To-mor- 
row we bid farewell to Rome (for a few weeks at least), a city 
where religious knowledge and ignorance, truth and error are 
placed in such a twilight that it is impossible to separate them. 
History, biography, and antiquities and high art are despoiled of 
much of character and authority by lying legends and doubtful 
traditions : 

" The double night of ages, and of her, 
Night's daughter, Ignorance, hath wrapt and wrap 
All round us ; we feel our way to err : 
The ocean hath his chart, the stars their map. 
And knowledge spreads them on her ample lap ; 
But Rome is as the desert, where we steer 
Stumbhng o'er recollections ; now we clap 
Our hands, and cry ' ' Eureka ! " it is clear — 
"When but some false mirage of ruin rises near. " 

Child Harold. 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 119 

'[Wi. — We had an early breakfast, and left at half-past ten a. 
]\r. for Naples, arriving at half-past six p. m., and stopping at the 
Hotel Grande Amerique. A part of the country through which 
we passed was very picturesque, with its combination of valleys, 
hills, and mountains, interspersed with towns and villages. We 
observed numbers of laborers turning up the soil with spades; a 
very slow process when compared with good American ploughs. 
We noticed, particularly, the oxen, which, like other cattle in this 
part of Italy, have immensely long horns. 

I'dth. — We were not satisfied with the Amerique, and removed 
to the Crocelle, where we found excellent apartments. From the 
windows we had a magnificent view, embracing Vesuvius and the 
towns and villages picturesquely scattered over its slope, with 
Castellamare and Sorrento in the distance, Capri in front, rising 
up out of the sea like a vast forlification, to defend the harbor 
from the attacks of man, and protect it from the storms of the 
ocean. The glorious Mediterranean was spread out before us, 
over which the delicious breezes came wandering, and over whose 
smooth waters innumerable fishing-boats, with their white sails 
glistening in the sun, were moving to and fro, like clouds across 
the blue heavens, " as silently, as rapidly, and as tracklessly." 
The scene is indeed beautiful, and part of it ever changing ; for 
the Mediterranean is like a kaleidescope — sometimes a bright green, 
then a dark, again a blue, as clear and beautiful as the sky, which 
suddenly grows dark again ; and at other times all of these colors 
are seen at once, and the lines of demarcation as clearly drawn 
and as perfectly straight as if separated by walls. 

After getting settled, we remembered that there were other 
things than those I have named to be done and seen in Naples. 
1 he first thing that received our attention was to procure a piano, 
so that Sade might continue her practising. We went to several 
places before we could be suited, but finally succeeded in getting 
an excellent one, which was sent in during the afternoon. 

\4,th. — After calling on the bankers, Messrs. Clauson & Co., we 
went to St. Francisco de Paolo, built after the design of the 
Pantheon ; a very elegant church. 



120 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

We went next to Jesii Nuovo, one of the finest churches in 
Naples, built in 1584. It was much damaged by the earthquake 
of 1688. Its interior is richly ornamented. We then went to 
the private chapel of the Duke of Sangro, called St. Maria della 
Pieta de Sangri, in which is some exquisite statuary. One piece 
in particular, a " Dead Christ Veiled," is a splendid work of art, 
the veil being admirably executed ; but all are good. Our next 
visit was to Filippo Neri, founded in 1592, and considered one 
of the handsomest churches in the city. It contains some rich 
chapels, and also some good paintings by Guido, Zuchero, Dorae- 
nichino, and others. We then went to the Cathedral, a large 
church, but not particularly attractive ; over two of the doors are 
tombs of Charles of Anjou, and Charles Martel, of Hungary, and 
his wife. The tombs of a number of other distinguished persons 
are in the chapel ; also some paintings. It is called the Cathedral 
of St. G-eunaro (St. Januarius), who is the patron saint of Naples. 
We had a long drive to the summit of the hill to San Martin o, 
formerly a monastery, but now, along with many others, closed by 
the Italian government The church belonging to it is beautiful, 
and has some very valuable paintings, among which are the 
" Deposition from the Cross," by Spagnoletto, and " The Cru- 
cifixion," by D'Arpiro. We went through several apartments, 
and saw some fine wood mosaics and other ingenious specimens 
of workmanship by the monks who once resided here. There is a 
glorious view of Naples and its surroundings from this place. We 
returned through the Kiviere de Chiaja, on one side of which is 
the Villa Reale, the promenade of Naples. It is separated from 
the street by a high iron railing, and extends to the sea wall , It 
is, I should think, three quarters of a mile in length by an eighth 
in width ; is beautifully laid out in wide avenues and narrow 
walks, ornamented with a profusion of flowers and shrubbery, 
with a grove near the upper end, fountains, statuary, ponds with 
ducks in them, small temples, &c. There are one or two cafes 
where refreshments can be had ; altogether it is a beautiful place, 
and is kept in admirable order. It is exclusively for pedestrians. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 121 

On the outside of the railing, running parallel with the street, is 
a space alotted to equestrians, and during a pleasant afternoon, 
while crowds of splendid equipages are thronging the Chiaja, gentle- 
men, and sometimes ladies, ride up and down. The road being 
very short they, of course, have to pass up and down a number of 
times to get much exercise, and they seem to like this, as their 
principal object is evidently to see and be seen. This part of the 
city presents to the eye a beautiful aspect at night. A lady writer 
has described it so graphically that I cannot resist the temptation 
of quoting at some length from her description : 

" Following the street which leads along the shore, we soon 
reach the Villa Reale, the dark avenues of which wave their lofty 
boughs, as though inviting us toward them with a bewitching 
charm. Beneath their dark green shade, the most exquisite copies 
of the ancient statues rest in shady gloom. The Venus de 
Medici, the Flora, the Apollo Belvedere, the Antinous, which 
we are accustomed to see only now and then in museums, here 
stand beneath the free vault of heaven, and these beauteous forms 
become to this southern race, among whom they had their birth, 
as sweet and familiar as their own. 

*' The clang of a military band, which plays here twice in every 
week, mingles with the gentle murmur of the waves ; while the 
soft moonlight, the red glow of the burning mountain, and the 
bright flickering of the gas-lights, half hidden among the trees, 
unite to form a most charming tout ensemble. A protecting iron 
railing separates the villa, which is only open to foot-passengers, 
from the throng of carriages and horsemen which pas's along the 
Riviere de Chiaja, where palace touches palace in uninterrupted 
succession. Everywhere flat roofs, balconies, and open windows ; 
everywhere brilliantly lighted rooms and gaily dressed ladies ; 
smiles, and splendor, and song, wherever the eye rests or the ear 
turns to listen ; while beneath the shade of the trees, on the bor- 
der of that deep blue sea, many a silent pair look forth on the 
boundless waves, and find in them an image of the overflowing 
tide of joy which is welling up within their gladsome hearts.'' 

6 



122 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

15th. — We drove to the Palazzo Eeale di Capodimonte, the 
suburban residence of the former king, situated on the hill behind 
the city, and commanding a fine view. It is a rectangular struc- 
ture, in two stories ; was commenced in 1738, and finished in 
1834. It is surrounded with gardens, park, and hunting ground. 
The rooms are numerous, and some are large and elegant. They 
contain a collection of modern paintings, statuary, armor, and 
other things. Many of the paintings are beautiful, and I enjoyed 
our hasty examination of them quite as much as I did any other 
pictures in Italy. We were hurried through so rapidly, that I 
had not an opportunity to note down the subjects and names of 
the artists that I liked best ; no great misfortune, perhaps, since 
my journal, like the narrative of Captain Lemuel Gulliver, the 
traveller so distinguished for his veracity, is, I fear, *' a little too 
circumstantial." There was one, however, which we could not fail 
to remember, " Adam and Eve weeping over the dead body of 
Abel." I do not recollect the name of the painter, if I heard it; 
but I am sure I shall never forget his picture. 

After walking through a part of the grounds, we drove to the 
Campo Santo Nuovo (cemetery), beautifully laid out, and contain- 
ing some very tolerable monuments, besides long rows of small 
chapels, each occupied as a family vault. We took a melancholy 
interest in looking at a plain stone, bearing inscriptions of the 
deaths in one family. The husband and wife (who came from 
England) died at Naples ; two daughters died there also ; another 
daughter at Terre Haute, Indiana, U. S. A. One son died at Al- 
bano, near Rome ; another at the Fejee Islands, in the South 
Pacific Ocean ; another was drowned in the Hoogly river, India ; 
and another died at Buffalo, New York, U. S. A. Their names 
were Best. Vesuvius was emitting smoke at intervals during the 
day. We called on Mr. and Mrs. E. D. M. and Mr. and Mrs. 
D., of New York, at the Hotel de Russe. 

16^^. — We spent a greater part of the day in the Musio Na- 
zionale (National Museum). We were all disappointed in the paint- 
ings. The collection numbers about nine hundred, many of which 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 123 

possess little merit ; some, however, are good, and among them 
are "The Guardian Angel defending Innocence from the Evil One, 
and pointing him to heaven," by Domenichino ; *' The Egerian 
Landscape," by Claude Lorraine ; " Magdalen," by Titian ; 
*' Charity," by Schidone ; " The Savior Praying in the Garden 
of Olives," a moonlight effect, a small and beautifnl picture, by 
Arpino ; and "The Adoration of the Magi," Andrea da Salerno. 
We went through the three large galleries (called porticoes), and 
several smaller ones (called cabinets), containing ancient sculptures, 
many of which are considered good. I was particularly pleased 
with the "Wounded Amazon on horseback," the "Wounded 
Gladiator," the equestrian statues of the elder and younger Balbus, 
found in the basilica of Herculaneum, and a statue of " Cicero in 
the act of speaking." There are numerous busts of Roman Em- 
perors and other historical ancients, a list of which would fill 
pages. The contents of these rooms were found at Rome, Her- 
culaneum, Pompeii, and various other places. 

The room of bronze statues contains many vahiable specimens. 
It is said to be most extensive collection of the kind in the world. 
The greater part of them were found at Herculaneum and Pompeii. 
The " Dancing Fawn" is considered the best piece in the room. 
The "Bust of Seneca," having glass eyes, is a fine delineation of 
an intellectual head. A small statue of "Alexander the Great,'* 
mounted on Bucephalus, and a small, but exceedingly beautiful, 
statue of a horse, found at Herculaneum, on the same spot with 
the statue of Alexander, and supposed to be Bucephalus, are ad- 
mirably executed, together with busts, animals, and other things. 
We then passed to the rooms containing the collection of ancient 
glass, numbering four thousand specimens, including almost every 
article into which glass is capable of being moulded. From this 
we entered the room of terra-cotta (or pottery), which was also 
extensive and curious. We then went to the apartments in which 
are the gold and silver ornaments, vases, cameos, gems, articles of 
food, and various other relics from Pompeii. A description of 
these rooms alone would make a volume of exceeding interest. 



124 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

The ornaments are rich in material and finish, and many of them 
quite as beautiful as the most modern. Some of the stones are of 
the most exquisite workmanship. The articles of food are truly 
wonderful. They consist of dates, walnuts, figs, pine-kernels, 
pomegranate-seed, eggs, and, most curious of all, a loaf of bread, 
on which is impressed the baker's name — Q. Cranius. Portions 
of nets, with the needles used in making them, thread, rope, and 
numerous other articles, which have been buried amid the ruins 
of Pompeii for eighteen hundred years, and even the frail and 
delicate eggs, are in a good state of preservation. As it was late, 
we had only time enough to go hurriedly through the room of 
ancient frescoes, found at Herculaneum and Pompeii. It contains 
more than sixteen hundred objects, which are curious rather than 
beautiful. We passed through another large apartment, contain- 
ing a collection of articles of almost every description found at 
these two places. 

Time did not permit our going to the rooms of papyri or parch- 
ments found at Pompeii. These resemble sticks of charcoal. 
After years of experiment, they are now being unrolled, but in a 
slow and tedious manner, by a machine, invented by Padre 
Piaggi. Several volumes have been deciphered and published. 
They are chiefly treatises on Epicurean philosophy. No manu- 
script of any known work has yet been discovered. 

17th, Sunday. — Sade, Howie, and I attended the Scotch Pres- 
byterian church in the morning. May was not well enough to go 
out. The sermon was an excellent one from Ephesians, chap, vi : 
verse 12. 

ISth. — We had an early breakfast and drove to Pozzuoli, the 
ancient Roman Puteoli.* In going out of the city we passed 
through the Grotto di Posilipo (a tunnel cut through the hill), 
two thousand two hundred and forty -four feet long and twenty-one 
and a half wide. Its height at the entrance is sixty-nine feet, 
and in the centre twenty-five feet. The time of its excavation 

* Acts xxviii : 13. 



GREAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 125 

is uncertain. Virgil's tomb is near the east entrance. We 
passed tiirough several villages, and also near two mineral springs, 
and various interesting ruins, but as we trusted to an incompetent 
guide for explanations, we returned about as wise as we were 
when we left. Murray says " this corner of the bay was the 
favorite resort of the wealthy Romans, whose villas lined the 
coast in thick succession, and rendered it one of the most popular 
spots in Italy. The masters of the world were here content to 
share the possession of a single acre. The orators and philosophers, 
as well as the nobles and warriors, sought the luxuries of a resi- 
dence in scenes which combined the beauties of nature with the 
refinements of aristocratic life. What reflections are evoked by 
the mere mention of Hanibal, Scipio, Lucullus, Marius, Scylla, 
Pompey, Caesar, Brutus, Antony, Augustus, and Agrippa ! What 
pictures crowd upon the recollection at the names of Tiberius, 
Nero, Adrian, Antonius Pius ; and, if we add to these the names of 
men of letters, whose memories still linger on the shores of Mise- 
num and Posilipo, we shall have to associate with Homer and 
Virgil those of Pindar, Cicero, Horace, Lucretius, Livy, the two 
Plinys, Martial, Seneca, Phaedras, Athenaeus, Silius Italicus, 
and Statius. Last, but dearest to the Christian traveller of all 
the personal reminiscences we mention, is the name of the great 
Apostle to the Gentiles, who finished at Puteoli his long and peril- 
ous voyage from Cagsarea, under the care of the centurion Julius. 
At Puteoli St. Paul was hospitably received by his countrymen, 
with whom he remained a week before leaving for Rome. The 
most prominent ruins at Pozzuoli are the Temple of Jupiter 
Serapis, the Mole, Temple of Neptune, Temple of the Nymphs, 
villa of Cicero, baths, temple of Antonius, theatre and amphi- 
theatre- The latter is of great size, and the lower walls and arched 
vaults are in a good state of preservation. It was in this amphi- 
theatre that the Emperor Nero acted as a common gladiator. Poz- 
zuoli suffered many vicissitudes. Its decline commenced with 
the fall of the Roman empire. In the fifth century it was 
plundered by Alaric, Genseric and Totila, and what these spared 



126 JOURNAL 0^ A TOUR THROUGH 

was destroyed by the earthquake or submerged by the sub- 
sidence of the land. In the ninth century it was again reduced to 
ruins by the Dukes of Benevenuto. In the tenth, it was seized by 
the Saracens ; in the eleventh it suffered from the eruption of the 
Solfatara; in the fifteenth, by the earthquake of 1456 ; and in the 
sixteenth it was attacked by the Turks ; but shortly before its last 
invasion, the eruption which formed the Monte Nuovo had deso- 
lated the entire district, and the city, long infected by malaria in 
the summer season, had been abandoned by the bulk of its inhabit- 
ants. From this disaster it never recovered. Its present popu- 
lation is twelve thousand. 

The ruins here and along the coast show that there'havebeen two 
distinct epochs in the physical changes ; one of subsidence and sub- 
mersion beneath the waters of the sea, and the other of elevation 
above its level. These changes were local, as many of the ruins along 
this part of the shore are under the water, while others that were 
once near the shore are now some distance back. The whole region 
is volcanic, and a number of extinct craters, which were active 
before Vesuvius, are to be seen. This coast is, perhaps, as worthy 
of examination as any spot in Europe. We expect to go over it 
again, and I shall make further reference to it. 

19iA. —Rested. 

20th. — We visited Herculaneum, and were disappointed to find 
that so little of the ruined city had been excavated. Descending 
a flight of stairs, and passing through a long, dark passage, we 
entered the theatre. Some of the rooms and passages have been 
opened ; the top is covered, except some small apertures to let in 
light, and much of the interior is filled with ashes and lava. We 
were shown through with lights, and could get only a partial idea 
of the building. The air was damp and chilling, and a gloom and 
silence like that of the grave pervaded the place. The stage and 
orchestra, together with the seats of the spectators and pillars, are 
visible. The two pedestals, on which were statues of the two 
Balbi (Consuls), are standing, with the inscriptions almost perfect. 
The statues have been removed to the museum at Naples. After 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 127 

returning, we followed a narrow and descending street, which led 
us to the uncovered part of the buried city. All around are to be 
seen the most terrible evidences of the march of devastation, while 
in the distance the fiery mountain stands like a destroying angel. 
And yet, the throngs who inhabit the numerous towns at its foot 
and along up its hollow and burning sides and in the little valleys, 
around which the red-hot lava has surged, seem unconscious of 
danger and wear an aspect of peace and security. The walls of 
the buildings are in good preservation, as well as some of the pil- 
lars, which are stuccoed. Frescoing is seen on some of the walls. 
The streets are in good order. This city was covered principally 
by volcanic mud, so liquid that the smallest interstices are filled 
by it. This accompanied the eruption of '79, while Pompeii and 
StabeaB were destroyed by showers of ashes and pumice stone, 
and it now lies partly buried under the little town of Resina, which 
is built over its ruins. We drove to the Favorita Palace, in which 
there was nothing of special interest. We were, however, repaid 
for the drive by a good view of Vesuvius, which was sending out 
considerable volumes of smoke. The grounds belonging to this 
palace are quite neat. 

21st. — Wrote some letters ; walked around to my banker's, and 
through some of the principal streets. 

22d. — Made the excursion to Cumae, returning by Baias. We 
passed through Pozzuoli again, and stopped to visit the ruins of 
the Temple of Jupiter Serapis, which we failed to see during our 
first visit. These ruins are interesting, from the fact that the 
columns yet standing show, by the holes bored deep into them by 
the lithodomus, a species of boring bivalve shell existing in the 
neighboring sea, that there has been a subsidence and submersion 
beneath the waters of the sea, and an elevation above its level. 
Recent observations show that the coast at this place is again sub- 
siding at the rate of about a quarter of an inch a year. Near 
these ruins are mineral baths. After leaving here we drove in 
sight of the Lake of Avernus, made famous by the poetry of 
Greece and Rome. Virgil represents -^neas as entering by a 



128 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

cavern on this lake, under the guidance of the Sibyl, in his descent 
into the realm of spirits. Twenty thousand slaves were employed 
in cutting a canal through the tract which separates Avernus 
from the Lucrine, and another throtigh the narrow tongue which 
separated the Lucrine from the Bay of BaiaB. By these canals 
the waters of the Avernus were reduced to the level of the sea, and 
the two lakes thus converted into harbors for the Roman fleet. 
The canal and one half of the lake were filled by the eruption of 
Monte Nuovo in 1588. We drove past the ruins of Cumse, said 
to be one of the most ancient of the Italian cities. It was the 
place of the exile and death of Tarquinius Superbus, who pur- 
chased of the Sibyl the three Sibylline books, which were preserved 
in their capitol, and valued so highly by the Romans for many 
ages. There are but few of the ruins visible. We returned by 
the way of Baise, the bay of which justifies the praises of beauty 
bestowed upon it by Horace eighteen hundred years ago. This 
place was the favorite resort of the wealthy. The shore of the 
bay is narowed by deep precipices to a mere strip of soil. When 
the patricians of Rome crowded to this shore, and every nook had 
been appropriated for their villas, it became necessary to build out 
into the sea. The ruins of those buildings are now under the water, 
and are of such an extent as to impair the safety of anchorage. 
A paved road advances in one place two hundred feet into the 
sea. Another evidence is this of the subsidence of the shore* 
The whole range of hills enclosing the shore, to their very summit, 
are covered with fragments of walls, subterranean passages and 
chambers, masses of masonry, mosaic pavements, and ruins of 
every variety and description. When viewing these remnants 
and fragments of ancient splendor, one is not surprised at the 
praises bestowed upon them by poets and historians. 

Three of the largest and best-preserved ruins are called Temples 
of Venus, Mercury and Diana ; but they really were the halls of 
magnificent baths, and not temples. The walls and ceilings are 
in a good state of preservation. The theatre and the villas Julius 
Csesar and Hortensius are pointed out. The two latter, I believe, 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 129 

rest upon doubtful evidence. Baias was as noted for its dissipations 
and bad morals as for the beauty of its situation. On our way- 
back, Sade and I ascended Monte Nuovo, and looked down into 
the old crater. This volcanic mountain, which is one mile and a 
half in circumference, and four hundred and forty feet high, was 
formed by the accumulated ejections of a new crater, in Septem- 
ber, 1538. The description of the earthquake preceding the 
eruption is very interesting, but space will not admit of giving it 
here. It may be found translated in the Quarterly Journal of the 
Geological Society, London. After our return to the carriage, 
we drove home, well satisfied with our day's excursion, but re- 
gretting that we were not more familiar with the history of the 
places we had seen. 

23d — This morning I took Howie through the museum; he 
seemed much interested in many of its contents. While there he 
acted as interpreter, in making inquiries about some pictures, and 
one of the artists, who was copying there, was so much pleased 
with his fluency in speaking French, that, on leaving, he presented 
him with a small oil-picture of a lamb. After going out, he 
placed it on the front seat of the carriage, where he could see it as 
we were driving ; and his criticisms upon it were very amusing. 
Its greatest merit was in its perspective, which, in his estimation, 
was far superior to anything that Claude or Poussin had ever 

painted. 

" In a strange land 
Such things, however trivial, reach the heart, 
And through the heart the head, clearing away 
The narrow notions that grow up at home. " — Rogers. 

We drove to the entrance of the G-rotto di Posilipo, where we 
ascended by numerous steps to near the summit of the hill under 
which it passes, and just over its entrance came to Virgil's tomb, 
which is in a neglected and dilapidated condition. 

We met at our hotel the A s and C s, two gentlemen 

and eight ladies in the party, from Charleston, S. C, whom we 
found to be very pleasant and agreeable. 

6* 



130 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

2ith, Sunday. — We went to the Presbyterian chapel in the 
morning and afternoon. The morning sermon by the pastor, was 
an excellent, and, I hope, a profitable one to us all. Mr. Cochran, 
of New York, quite a young man, who is travelling with his 
mother, preached a good sermon in the afternoon. 

2Sth. — Sade, Howie, and I left, in company with Mrs. E. D. 
M n and her little son, at nine o'clock for the ascent of Vesu- 
vius. We drove as far as the carriages could go, and then 
mounted our ponies for the foot of the cone. It requires about 
two and a half hours to reach it. Prior to the eruption of 1858, 
there was a fine carriage road to the Hermitage, situated about 
two thirds of the distance up. Many parts of this road were 
covered to the depth of hundreds of feet by the lava from this 
eruption. The Hermitage, which is on a high point, was almost 
encircled by it. The horse-road is not well made, particulary that 
part of it between the Hermitage and the cone. Many places are 
really dangerous to ride over. No description could be written 
that would give even a faint idea of the effects of this one erup- 
tion. The immense fields of lava, thrown up in many places into 
hills of great height, forming deep basins and valleys, strikes one 
with awe, and makes him tread more lightly over the crust of earth 
which separates him from the red-hot fires below. In places the 
lava is still burning. We detected at one point the heat coming, 
out as it does from a burning brick-kiln, and on examination, 
found the surface very hot. This was the '58 lava. At the base 
of the cone, where we leave our horses, there is a large valley, or 
more properly speaking, a basin. It was the old crater previous 
to the eruption of A. D. 79- The ascent from this point is very 
steep, and is over beds of lava, broken into small pieces, which 
slip and move about under the feet, and give one an idea of great 
insecurity. After getting about half-way up, I became very dizzy, 
and felt that it would not be prudent to go further ; and, as 
Howie, who was carried, was somewhat frightened, we returned, 
leaving Sade to go up with Mrs. M. and the guides. 

In descending, the path is through the ashes, resembling small 



GBEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 131 

stones and sand. The feet sink to the ankles at each step. Sade 
was highly gratified at the thought of having gone up to the 
crater, and seemed inclined to bear rather hard upon Howie and 
me during our ride down, for our want of courage ; Howie, how- 
ever, exonerated himself by dutifully asking, *' Did you think 
I would let papa come down alone." Vesuvius cannot be 
described. The history of its different eruptions is very enter- 
taining, and I hope some day to read it. 

26M. — Rested from the fatigue of yesterday. 

21 ih. — In the forenoon we drove out to the Solfatara, a semi- 
extinct volcano, near to Pozzuoli. The crater is covered with 
stratified tufa, and is in shape like a punch-bowl, except that the 
bottom is more flat. It is about four hundred yards in diameter. 
By throwing a heavy stone, or striking any part of the bottom, 
it gives out a hollow sound, showing that the crater has a large 
vaulted chasm below the present floor. 

There is one large crevice, which is perpetually exhaling steam 
and noxious gases. At its mouth a noise like that produced by 
boiling water and steam is constantly heard. By digging down 
into the sand a few inches, in many parts of the crater, the soil 
is found to be too hot for the hand to bear. The only recorded 
eruption of this volcano was in 1198. It then poured out a stream 
of lava that extended into the sea. 

2Sth. — Weather unpleasant ; nothing done. 



132 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THBOUGH 



MARCH. 

1st and 2d. — Rained without intermission, giving us an oppor- 
tunity to rest. 

Sd, Sunday. — Attended the Presbyterian Church morning and 
afternoon ; the morning sermon by the pastor was an excellent 
one. Mr. Cochran preached in the afternoon. 

Aih. — Weather very unpleasant. Walked through some of the 
streets, made some purchases, and called on some friends. 

5th. — Our arrangements had been completed for making an ex- 
cursion to Amalfi to-day. But it rained during the morning, 
and the weather looked unpropitious, so we delayed starting until 
it was too late to reach the depot in time for the train. The 
clouds passed over, and we concluded to go to Sorrento. After 
reaching Castellamare, at which place we leave the cars and take 
carriages for Sorrento, we found that we had ample time, and 
determined to drive out to Pompeii, some four miles distant. 
Castellamare stands upon the site of Stabise, which was destroyed 
by the great eruption of A. D. 79, and it was here that the elder 
Pliny, who had come around from Messina in his boat to witness 
the strange phenomena, lost his life. The country through which 
the railway passes is one of rare loveliness. Orange groves cov- 
ered with green leaves and ripening fruit, vineyards just budding 
out, the mulberry, cactus, myrtle, and oleander alternating with 
the black and shining lava. The curious towns, with their flat- 
roofed houses ; the Mediterranean rolling gracefully in along the 
sandy beach, or dashing in fury against the dark lava walls 
which have encroached on its silvery strand ; and Vesuvius, with 
its smoking summit and blackened sides, interspersed with luxu- 
riant verdure and smiling villas, stand in striking and lively con- 
trast to the fiery storms which once burst over that land. We 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 133 

drove out in about three quarters of an hour, and entered the 
city of the past through the gate near the villa of Diomede, so 
called because, among the many tombs that line the way, the 
one nearest this villa has the name of Arrius Diomede inscribed 
upon it. This is one of the largest private residences yet discov- 
ered, and the only perfect specimen of a suburban villa. It is 
situated on the street outside of the walls leading from the Her- 
culaneum gate, called the street of tombs, in consequence of its 
being built up with tombs on each side, similar to the Via Appia 
at Rome. The marble facings of the monuments, the bas-reliefs, 
and the inscriptions on the tombs have, in many cases, been pre- 
served quite free from injury. Near the tombs are to be seen 
circular benches of white marble as resting-places ; the gate of 
the city, a guard-house, and a tavern which opens on the street, 
in which a marble counter still bears the marks of the vessels 
which rested on it so many centuries ago. In my descriptions of 
Pompeii I must quote liberally from other writers, as it would be 
impossible for one who has gone through it only once, and that 
hurriedly, to give anything like a detailed description ; I could 
give my own general impressions of the place, which I shall do, 
but these would not convey a very clear idea of it. Pompeii was 
situated on a rising ground of the older volcanic rocks of the 
Campagna, which seems to have formed a peninsula. It was sur- 
rounded on two sides by the sea, which almost washed the walls 
of the west and south, and on the east by the Sarno, which was 
formerly navigable a short distance above its mouth. The sea 
has now receded, I should think, nearly two miles from its an- 
cient line. Its origin is ascribed to the Oscans. It was subse- 
quently occupied by the Etruscans and the Samnites; later, it 
became the favorite resort of the Roman aristocracy. Cicero had 
a villa here, in the Augustan suburb, in which he wrote his 
"Offices," and at which he received Augustus Balbus, Hirtius, 
and Pansa as guests. Seneca tells us that all of his earliest youth 
was passed at Pompeii. 

The city was visited by an earthquake February 5, A. D. 63. 



134 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

Tacitus says that *' it threw down the greater part of the city." 
Seneca adds that "it damaged many places in its neighborhood, 
and swallowed up six hundred sheep, and deprived many persons 
of their reason. So great was the terror which it inspired, that 
the Pompeiians abandoned the city for a time. They returned, 
however, in the course of a few months, and began to repair the 
damage." Another earthquake in the following year appears to 
have done still greater mischief; for we find many floors out of 
their line, and columns bearing evidence of having been violently 
disturbed, and the walls of the public buildings show marks of 
having been rent or thrown down. The citizens were rebuilding 
the shattered edifices when the eruption of August 24 th, A. D. 
79 occurred. The city was overwhelmed by showers of scoria, 
pumice, and ashes, no lava having reached it. The roofs, being 
of wood, were broken down by the weight, and but few traces of 
them remain. Most of the inhabitants must have escaped, as 
thus far but few skeletons have been discovered. It seems that 
explorations were made, probably to secure the valuables buried 
with the city, and to facilitate these, the site was partially reoc- 
cupied ; for it appears that many of the lower classes built dwell- 
ings upon the ruins, and these villages were destroyed by the 
eruption of 472, after which the site was abandoned. Subsequent 
eruptions deposited successive layers of volcanic matter, and we 
may now discover several distinct strata of scoria, tufa, and 
lapelli, varying in thickness according to the violence of the erup- 
tions which produced them, and covered by about two feet of rich 
vegetable mould. The walls of the city are about two miles in 
circuit. The area enclosed by the sea on one side and the walls 
on the other is estimated at one hundred and sixty acres, exclu- 
sive of the suburbs. The walls were of great solidity and width. 
There were eight gates. The streets, for the most part, are very 
narrow ; excepting the principal thoroughfares, they would not 
admit of more than one carriage to pass at a time (narrow as 
the ancient chariots were). The widest streets, not including 
sidewalks, are about ninety-three feet. The pavements are of 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 135 

large blocks of lava, closely fitted together, and usually bordered 
by a curb. The ruts made by the chariots are everywhere 
visible, crossing and recrossing each other in the broad streets. 
They are worn into one deep rut in the smaller ones. Of the 
streets which have been found, five may be considered as princi- 
pal thoroughfares of the city. The streets are all in as perfect 
order as in modern cities. If Pompeii had not been visited by 
two destructive earthquakes, which must have effected other ex- 
tensive changes, we should have found it a more perfect specimen 
of a Roman city of the third class. Marks of hasty renovation 
and repair appear, generally with the commonest materials. In 
Southern Italy, says Mr. Hillard,* houses are and were 
built with special reference to the warmth of the sun in 
winter, and an abundance of fresh air in summer. The 
private dwellings, with few exceptions, are small and low. 
The front of the ground floor of the larger houses, like those of 
the modern palaces of Naples, were generally occupied by shops, 
and where there were no shops, the outer walls of the ground 
floor were stuccoed, and generally painted in bright colors. The 
upper floors alone had windows, and very few houses had a third 
story; none had chimneys. The internal arrangements varied 
according to the rank and circumstances of the occupant, but as 
a rule, all houses of the first and second class were divided into 
two parts, in accordance with the domestic customs of the Ro- 
mans, and their double life, the first part being public, and the 
second private. The public part, intended for the reception of the 
clients of a patrician, comprised several suits of apartments. On 
the side next the street there was generally an open space called 
the area^ either wholly or in part surrounded by a ■portico with 
columns ; within this portico was the porch or prothyrum and the 
vestibule, containing one or more rooms, used as waiting-rooms, 
or as the porter's lodge The vestibule opened on the hall or 
atrium, the principal apartment of this division, where the pro- 

* Six months in Italy. 



136 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

prietor gave audience to his clients. It was a large gpace, cover- 
ed with a flat roof on both sides, open to the sky in the centre, 
with a cistern beneath the floor to catch the rain, which descend- 
ed through the aperture, called the impluvium. The walls had 
paintings, and the pavements were of marble or mosaics. Open 
to the atrium was a chamber called the tahlium, supposed to have 
been a depository for family records and documents, and in some 
of the larger houses, to serve as a dining-room. At the side were 
small apartments called alw, and rooms for strangers called hos- 
pitia. The communication between the public and private parts 
was effected by narrow passages called fauces. On entering the 
private division there was a spacious court called the peristyle, 
open to the air in the middle, but surrounded by a covered colon- 
nade, which answered the double purpose of passage between the 
different apartments, and of a sheltered promenade in wet weather. 
In the centre was usually a garden, decorated with statues and 
fountains, from which the whole quadrangle has been also called 
viridarium. One of the rooms, entered from the peristyle, was 
the dining-room, or triclinium, ^o called from the broad seats 
which projected from the walls and surrounded the table on three 
sides, and enabled the luxurious Romans to recline on couches at 
their meals. The wealth of the owner was generally lavished on 
the decorations and furniture of this room, although it is never 
very spacious. Next were the sitting-rooms, or cBci, saloons richly 
decorated, and frequently opening on the gardens. In these the 
Pompeiian ladies passed their time. Another large room was the 
parlor, or exedra, supposed to be a reception-room for the visit- 
ors. The library, or biUiotheca, was generally a small apartment^ 
as but little space was required for the papyrus rolls. The pic- 
ture gallery, or pinacotheca, also opened on the peristyle. The 
baths were usually on one angle, as also the lararium, or 
place for the household gods. The bedrooms, or cuhicida, which 
were extremely small and inconvenient, according to our modern 
notions, often containing only a rude bench rather than bedstead, 
on which the sleeper probably threw himself without taking off 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. ' 137 

the clothes he had worn during the day. These bedrooms are 
ranged around the atrium like state-rooms around a cabin, and 
being without windows, receive light and air only through the 
door opening into the atrium. They were arranged together in 
two small divisions ; the first comprising those of the men called 
audronites, and were always separated from those of the females, 
which were called the gynceconitis, or gynceceum. Many of the 
rooms had windows, some of which were glazed. The roofs were 
flat, and converted into terraces planted with vines and flowers, 
so as to form a shady promenade, or pergula. In the rear of the 
mansion, was an open space, or flower-garden, called the xystus, 
containing flowers, statuary, and fountains. The second stories 
seem to have been occupied as store-rooms and apartments for 
the servants. 

"But lo! engraven on a threshold-stone, 
That word of courtesy, so sacred once, 
Hahj ! At a master's greeting we may enter." 

EOGEBS. 

The friendly Salve (welcome) over many of the doors still meets 
the eye of the stranger on the threshold, and although the host 
has so long been numbered with the dead, yet it continues to bid 
welcome to each coming guest. " The hospitality of which we 
thus catch a passing glimpse through the dim vista of distant 
ages has a peculiarly impressive effect upon the mind." * 

As yet no houses have been discovered which may be regarded 
as the dwellings of the poor, and it is uncertain whether the 
lower order occupied a part of the town yet uncovered, or wheth- 
er there were none of that class inhabiting the city. Neither 
stables nor coach-houses have been discovered. The shops were 
small and mean in appearance, and were all of one character. 



* This description of the houses and domestic life of Pompeii is 
chiefly taken from books of travel and guide-books, which borrow from 
many different authorities. 



138 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

having the business part in front and one or two small apart- 
ments behind, very like those now seen in some parts of Naples. 
Many of them have the names of their former owners written 
over them, mostly in red letters, others have signs in terra-cotta 
to denote the trade which was carried on in them. The present 
names of many of the houses are derived from the paintings and 
statues which they contained, or from the royal personages in 
whose honor they were excavated. Near the garden gate of 
the Diomede villa before referred to, was found the skeleton, 
supposed to be that of the owner of the villa, with an attend- 
ant, the one still holding in his grasp the key of the villa, and 
the other carrying a purse containing one hundred gold and silver 
coins. The members of the family seem to have taken refuge in 
the immense cellars, where eighteen skeletons were found near 
the front door, as if trying to get out. From the golden orna- 
ments on the necks and arms of nearly all of these skeletons, it is 
probable they were mostly females. Two were the skeletons of 
children, whose skulls still retained some fair hair. After they 
had perished, probably from suffocation, the floor of the cellar was 
inundated with a fine alluvium, which hardened upon the bodies 
and took casts not only of their forms, but even of the most 
delicate texture of the linen which they wore, and of the jew- 
elry which adorned their persons. 

Among the many houses visited by us I will mention without 
attempting to describe, that of Sallust, with his name painted 
on the outer wall. In a lane near it was found the skeleton of 
a young female, with four rings on her fingers, set with precious 
stones ; five gold bracelets on her arms, two ear-rings, and 
thirty-two pieces of silver near her Close-by were found three 
other skeletons, supposed to be her slaves. In the public bake- 
house bread, and everything pertaining to a bakery, was found. 
Among others was the house of Pansa, occupying an area of 
three hundred feet by one hundred and twenty, and extending 
into four streets ; the house of Castor and Pollux, so called from 



(SREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 139 

paintings in it of great size and magnificence, and richly deco- 
rated ; the House of Fame, said to be the largest and most mag- 
nificent of the Pompeiian houses ; the Temple of Fortune, a 
small Corinthian temple; the Forum, the most spacious and 
imposing spot in Pompeii : the Temple of Venus ; the Basilica, 
two hundred and twenty by eighty feet ; the house of Cornelius 
Kufus, with his bust and name on the walls in one of the rooms ; 
We saw some other houses, the ruins of which gave evidence 
of great splendor. In the barracks for the troops fifty-three 
skeletons were found. These Roman soldiers, in that terrible 
storm of fire, true to their commission, probably remained at 
^heir post after knowing that to do so was sure death. 

At a distance of six hundred yards from the barracks is the 
am])hitheatre, which would accommodate about ten thousand 
persons. This, I believe, was never entirely covered. The 
lower part is almost perfect. 

The excavations were commenced about one hundred and fifty 
years ago. Only one fourth of tBe city has been uncovered. 
The work is still progressing, but on a very small scale. The 
general appearance of the city at a first glance, creates a feeling 
of disappointment, as the houses are roofless, and many of the 
walls broken and fallen. But as we passed through the streets 
and entered the houses which, for eighteen hundred years, have 
been buried under the ashes and hidden from the sight of man, 
and beheld a perfect city except the roofs and doors, and the 
throngs of human beings who once peopled it, a feeling of 
solemn awe came over me, and it required an effort to divest my- 
self of the idea that we were treading over the semi-ruins of 
another and an earlier world. With the exceptions named, the 
city, unlike any other on the globe, remains just as it was 
eighteen centuries ago. After spending hours in wandering 
among these melancholy ruins, we walked to the Hotel Diomede 
near-by, where we partook of a lunch and left for Sorrento. 
We had three good horses, and our drive \^'as a fast as well as a 



140 JOURNAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

delightful one. We reached Sorrento about dark and stopped 
at the Rispoli, where we had good rooms and bad fare. 

Qth. — Rained all day. Did not go out. 

1th. — The morning was pleasant, and we started on a donkey 
excursion to the old De&erto monastery, situated on the summit of 
one of the mountains. Before reaching that point our donkeys 
broke down, and we had to walk about one fourth of the dis- 
tance, over an uneven and muddy road and up a steep hill. We 
managed to get up alive. I was almost as badly off as the don- 
keys, as I had to carry little Howie a part of the way. We were 
afraid to let him walk, on account of his feet ; and our valet-de- 
place and guide were both occupied with the donkeys. 

We had a magnificent view, which embraces Naples and the 
coast as far as Baiae, Vesuvius, with the towns and villages hang- 
ing around its base, Sorrento, the islands of Ischia, Procida, and 
Capri, with the Syren's rock, and the ever-lovely, treacherous 
Mediterranean. This view fully repaid us for coming up. But 
the descent ! what shall I say of that % Our donkeys having fallen 
under us, we were afraid, of course, to trust them again ; there was 
but one alternative, and we started on our downward career in 
single file and by another road, thinking that any change from 
the one we came up would be for the better. The first half 
mile was " passable ;" we went through quite a long street in a 
little town on the mountain-top, and after reaching the end our 
guide informed us that we were out of the way, and must retrace 
our steps. We thought this rather " cool,'' even for mountain 
temperature, as he was along with us, and ought to have known 
the way. We wiped the perspiration from our faces, drew a long 
breath, and faced about. After getting to the end of the street, 
" we struck off'* to our right ; and such a road ! stony, muddy, 
uneven. We trudged along, and found that it grew worse. We 
soon came to a place where the road led through a deep defile, 
and its whole surface was covered to the depth of several inches 
by a mountain torrent, leaping along as joyously as if it never 
had a care. What were we to do? We held a short, but 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 141 

mournful consultation ; Howie was carried, and he, at least, was 
all right. We looked at the blue sky above, the high hills on 
each side, and then, casting 

«* A long and lingering look behind, 
We plunged into the flood." 

Poor May ! This was a new way of travelling to her, and 
when we got through, she was almost exhausted. As we were 
resting awhile, the ladies looked sorrowfully at their Paris-made 
kids, and I scolded the guide in English, who only understood 
French and Italian. Then we started again for the hotel, which 
we finally reached, about as tired as we well could be. We 
were unanimous, I believe, in our praises of the beauties of the 
views we had from the Deserto, but were of the decided opinion 
that Sorrento donkeys and Sorrento guides are not to be trusted. 

In the afternoon we drove to Massa, situated at the end of the 
carriage-road toward the cape. The road was beautiful, the 
scenery and views fine, and the drive a delightful one, and we 
enjoyed it the more from the misery inflicted upon us in the 
morning by the unfaithful donkeys. 

8th, — Eaining and blowing a gale during the morning, causing 
the orange and olive trees to shiver and shudder, and the latter 
to change from white to dark and dark to white, as the silvery or 
dark green sides of their leaves were turned up by the swaying 
breeze. Toward noon the clouds were driven behind the moun- 
tains by the wind, and embracing the opportunity, we sallied forth 
to visit the house in which Tasso is said to have been born. It 
is now used for a hotel. In' one of the rooms is a marble bust 
of Tasso, and another adjoining is pointed out as the one which 
he used as a study. He returned here in 1577, after his seven 
years' captivity at Ferrara. We went through some of the 
streets, visited two of the establishments where the celebrated 
Sorrento inlaid woodwork is made, after which we returned to 
our hotel. 

Sorrento is the Syrentum or SyrerCs town of the Greeks, and the 



142 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

Surrentum of the Romans. Its present population is about seven 
thousand. There is nothing prepossessing in the appearance of 
the town, but the surroundings are beautiful. It is situated on 
the Piano di Sorrento, which is an irregular plain of about three 
miles in length, and nearly three hundred feet above the level of 
the sea. It is shut in on three sides by the hills, while the fourth 
faces the sea. The cliffs in many places are two hundred feet 
high, and perpendicular. There are quite a number of towns and 
villages on it, besides numerous villas and farms, scattered over 
with orange groves, vineyards, pomegranate, mulberry, fig, and 
apple, mingled with the aloe, olive, and acacia, presenting to the 
eye the appearance of a vast garden. The orange groves pre- 
sent a rich variety of colors. The sides of the mountains and 
almost fathomless ravines, where there is sufficient soil, are cov- 
ered with orange and olive groves. The climate is delightful, 
and during the summer it is a favorite residence of the English. 
There is a large orange and lemon grove on the grounds of our 
hotel, and from them the evening breezes came loaded with their 
rich odor, giving a fragrance as delicious as the groves are 
beautiful. 

^th. — "We left at one o'clock p. m. for Salerno. After reaching 
Castellamare, we concluded to go by carriage instead of by rail. 
As our horses were tired, we engaged another carriage, with 
the usual three horses, and proceeded. The first part of the 
drive was not very enjoyable ; the roads were bad, and the country 
uninteresting. We passed through the towns of Scafati, Pagani, 
with eight thousand inhabitants, Norcera, with eight thousand, 
once the rival of Pompeii ; Hago, the founder of the order of the 
Knights Templars, was a native of this town ; Cava, thirteen 
thousand, and Vietro, five thousand. Some of these places are 
interesting from their historical associations, but miserably filthy 
and unattractive now. The latter part of our drive was much 
more agreeable, the country being picturesque, and some parts 
very beautiful. We reached Salerno late in the afternoon, and 
stopped at the Victoria, a hotel with good apartments, but not 



GREAT BREDAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 143 

well kept. Salerno has a population of eighteen thousand. The 
streets, with a few exceptions, are narrow and filthy. Its School 
of Medicine in the middle ages gave it a fame. It was, I think, 
the oldest in Italy, and during the twelfth century was the most 
distinguished in Europe. 

lOt/i, Sunday. — There being no Protestant church in the place, 
we read the scriptures and had prayers. 

11 M. — We started early in the morning for Amalfi, glad to 
leave a place where we had found so few comforts.* The road 
from Salerno to Amalfi is, perhaps, one of the best of its kind in 
Europe, and is something like the Riviera, leading from Genoa to 
Nice. It is cut most of the way out of the rocky sides of the 
mountains. It winds and changes every hundred yards, and in 
places hangs fearfully high over the sea. In some places the 
sea flows under the road. We passed many gorges and ravines, 
all of which had towns at their junction with the sea, some very 
pleasantly situated. There are a number of towns and villages 
built about midway up the almost perpendicular mountains, which 
seem wholy inaccessible. The ground on which they stand is 
terraced out from the side of the mountain, and the roofs of the 
houses, which are three or four stories high on the lower streets, 
only reach up to the level of the street next above. Wherever 
there is any soil, or where a place can be made for it, and where 
it is so steep as to make it impracticable for one to ascend without 
first cutting out a path, it is terraced by building walls to hold the 
soil, and planted with orange and olive trees. Many of these 
spots are not more than twenty feet long. We reached Amalfi 



* I notice these things not for the sake of gmmbliag and fretting, 
but as a warning to my friends. We should in Italy remember the re- 
flection of Dr. Moore upon his poor fare at Tolontino : "If the enter- 
tainment had been still more homely, those travellers who are accustomed 
to the greatest dehcacies might be induced to bear it with patience for 
one night from this consideration : that the people of the place, who have 
just as good a natural right to the luxuries of life as themselves, are 
obliged to bear it always.'' 



144 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

in due time, stopped at the Hotel de Capucin, and ordered a din- 
ner, after which we sallied forth to see the town. Howie was 
mounted on a donkey, the rest of us were on foot, We first went 
into a maccaroni manufactory, and examined the process of making 
this favorite and almost universal- article of diet. Then we went 
some distance up the gorge through which the mountain stream 
comes down, that supplies Amalfi with water-power for its 
numerous paper-miUs. This little stream called Canneto is now 
the chief source of its prosperity. The mountains rise up almost 
perpendiculary on each side of this ravine, some four or five hun- 
dred feet, and on their tops and almost hanging over, may be seen 
some old ruins and a few modern buildings. We walked through 
some of the streets and to the hotel, where we had an excellent 
dinner. 

AmaLfi was a republic, and the scene of many stirring events in 
the middle ages. It embarked in the Crusades, and in common 
with Genoa, Venice, and other cities, opened a trade with the 
East, which was the source of its wealth and prosperity. One of 
its merchants, Flario Gioia, brought into notice in Europe in 
1302 the Chinese invention of the compass. The first hospital of 
St. John of Jerusalem, in Palestine, from which the hospitalers took 
their rise, was founded by citizens of Amalfi.* A copy of Jus- 
tinian's " Pandects " was found here by the Pisans, when they 
sacked the place in the twelfth century, which contributed to 
revive the study of civil law in Europe. Its glory has long 
since departed, but its natural beauties remain. Its present 
prosperity (if it has any) is derived from its manufactories of 

* Eogers in his Italy commemorates their munificence in lines de- 
serving of a place here, 

***** " In Palestine, 

By the wayside, in sober grandeur stood 

A hospital, that, night and day, received 

The pilgrims of the West, and, when 'twas asked, 

' Who are the noble founders ? ' Every tongue 

At once replied, ' The merchants of Amalfi.' " 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 145 

paper, soap, and maccaroni. It has sixteen paper-mills, fifteen 
maccaroni manufactories, and seven soap factories. Its present 
population is about seven thousand five hundred. Soon after 
dinner we started to return, and had a delij;htful ride as far as 
Cava, reaching there about 5 o'clock, and stopping at the Hotel 
des Londres, very invitingly situated on the outskirts of the town. 
It is surrounded by well-kept grounds, and from it the view of rhe 
valley and mountains is very good. The town is situated between 
Monte Angelo and a branch of the Apennines, which terminates 
on the Gulf of Salerno. Valery describes La Cava as a " Swiss 
valley, with the sun and olives of Naples." We had fine rooms, 
and the proprietor was very attentive and obliging. 

12th. — Howie and I made a donkey excursion to the Bene- 
dictine monastery of La Trinita della Cava, on Monte Finestra, 
founded in 1025, and remarkable for its archives, containing 
forty thousand parchment rolls and upward of sixty thousand 
manuscripts on paper, many of which relate to the early and 
mediaeval history of Italy. The library once contained a large 
collection of MSS., but many of them have been stolen or dis- 
persed. We saw several illuminated Bibles of great beauty, and 
also a MS. vulgate, a quarto MS. of the Old and New Testa- 
ments of the text of Jerome after the reading of Idacius Clarus 
(Virgiiius), who was Bishop of Thapsus at the end of the fifth cen- 
tury. It is beautifully written on vellum, in small cursive charac- 
ters, with three columns on a page. The organ in the church is 
said to be the best in Italy. The organist played several pieces 
for us, in which almost every musical instrument I had ev r 
heard was closely imitated. In one of the chapels are many rich 
tombs. It is elaborately finished in mosaic, and frescoes, except 
on the side against the hill ; this remains unfinished, the wall 
being formed of the rough and uneven rock which nature had 
placed there. The contrast is very striking and the effect good. 
On our way down, Howie and I had several races, which we 
probably enjoyed more than our donkeys did, judging from their 
willingnesi to stop on the slightest pretext. 

7 



146 JOURNAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

We had a good lunch after our return, and left for Naples. 

13th and lAth were allowed to pass without accomplishing 
anything. 

15tL — Sade and I made a second visit to Pompeii, and I 
was even more interested than when I first visited it. A Sab- 
bath-like stillness, an atmosphere of melancholy silence, seems to 
pervade the place. The impression made upon my mind by the 
reflection that the streets over which I was walking — in such 
perfect preservation, and which had not been trodden by the 
foot of any living creature for the space of seventeen hundred 
years, can never be effaced. The names and history of its 
inhabitants were almost as effectually buried amid the ruins of the 
past as the city was by the ashes and lava from the fiery Vesu- 
vius ; and while the energy and perseverance of the present gener- 
ation have exhumed a large part of the latter, only stray frag- 
ments of the former have kept above the surface of the general 
ruin, and still less of that which was buried has been uncovered 
and restored to the light of the modern world. Diomedes' villa 
remains as a monument to the wealth and luxury of the age in 
which it was built, while the name of its owner rests upon the 
slender evidence of a tomb near it, on which is inscribed the 
name of Diomedes. We saw some interesting houses which 
escaped our observation on our first visit. In one of these, 
which has been repaired, are the remains of four skeletons which 
were discovered in 1863, in a small street under a heap of rub- 
bish and lava which had moulded itself over them. By pouring in 
liquid plaster, the bodies were preserved in the dress in which 
they were surprised by the eruption, and in the attitude in which 
they died. One lay on its face, as if quietly sleeping ; another 
has one leg and arm up as if struggling in agony. These were 
very curious. After partaking of a lunch at the Diomedes' Ilotel, 
we left for Naples. 

IQth. — Most of the day was occupied with attending to some 
business with my bankers, and in doing some shopping. 

17th, Sunday. — Attended Presbyterian church in the morningj, 



GEE AT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 147 

and heard an excellent sermon by the pastor from Eph. i. 16. 
Howie and I went into the Sabbath -school room before the church 
services commenced in the afternoon, and while there made a 
contribution for the support of the school. Heard a good sermon 
in the afternoon. The pastor of this church, Rev. A. F. Bus- 
carlett, is a Swiss. The church has recently purchased a property 
for a house of worship and school-rooms. Each member of my 
family had the privilege of makino; a contribution toward the 
payment of the cost. I think we all deemed it a privilege. Mr. 
B., in addition to his duties as pastor, is engaged in superin- 
tending and teaching a school, in which the native children are 
taught, among other things, the truths of the Bible. He is ener- 
getic, earnest, and as a speaker eloquent, and, from what we 
beard, he is doing much good. We met our old travelling friends, 
Mr. and Mrs. K. Mrs. E. was suffering much from the effects 
of a fall on the little steamer running between Naples and Capri. 

18th. — We all made an excursion up Vesuvius, as far as the 
Hermitage, affording May an opportunity to see the fields of 
lava from the eruptions of 1855 and 1861. We went through 
the observatory situated near to the Hermitage, where we saw a 
great variety of lava, stones, and minerals thrown out by Vesu- 
vius at various times, some of which are said by geologists to 
date prior to the deluge. Some contain fossils of fish and other 
sea animals^ we also saw various scientific instruments of which 
we had no explanation, Sade gathered a number of wild 
flowers from the sides of the mountain to preserve in her book. 
We had a very pleasant ride up 5 Sade and I walked most of the 
way down to the carriage road. 

Naples is a very old city. It derives its origin from the 
Greek settlement called Neapolis, or New town. In the thirteenth 
century Charles of Anjou fixed the seat of government here, and 
made many prominent improvements ; various others were made 
by the Spanish viceroys between 1552 and 1695. The streets in 
the old parts of the city are narrow, with houses six and seven 
Stories high, swarming with inhabitants. Some of the streets 



148 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

have been widened, while in the new part of the city they are 
wide and regular. Tlie city stands on the north side of the bay 
or Gulf of Naples,, and it is claimed that with the exception of 
Constantinople, it is the most beautifully situated of any city in 
the world. Its population is about 500,000. The climate is 
considered salubrious, and here, says a writer, the " dolce far 
niente,'' *' the sweet do-nothing" feeling, exists in perfection. 
Naples is densely crowded, and one must see it at night in order 
to form a just idea of its population, and the life of its people. 
The dwellings are forsaken at this hour, and the whole population 
seem to be on the steps, in the windows, on the balconies, or out 
in the streets ; some moving about for pleasure, others with 
baskets on their heads containing fruits and provisions, and who 
with loud cries offer them for sale. Innumerable httle stalls line 
the quai and some of the wide streets, in which fruits, provisions, 
aad various articles are offered for sale ; guitar and organ players 
move about in the hope of getting a few Qoppers as a reward for 
their music ; a group of peasants, dressed in fancy costume, are 
sino-ino- to a large crowd collected around them. Carriages come 
dashing rapidly along, and the crowd open a space barely sufficient 
to let them pass. Fishermen are returning from their boats; 
noisy children are moving around in every direction; sailors, 
soldiers, women, donkeys, and priests push their way through the 
middle of the streets, causing a stranger unaccustomed to tiie 
whirl around him to become perfectly bewildered. Altogether I 
was pleased with Naples, and would like to have remained longer, 
but we had arranged to be in Rome, and must now pack up 
and be ready for an early start.* 

i^th. We left at half-past ten a. m. for Rome. We had an 

opportunity of seeing by daylight that part of the country 



*"5ee ITaples and then die," is a well-known Italian saying; but it 
BhoTildread, *' See Naples and then live" One glance at such a scene 
stamps upon the meiQory an icnage whicli forever after gives a new 
value to life."— Hon. G. S. Hillaed. 



GBEAT BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 149 

through which we passed ; it was darkened by the evening when 
we passed over it before. A part of it was well worth seeing. 
We passed many places historically interesting, one of which was 
Capua, where Hannibal wintered with his army after the battle 
of Cannse, and where they became so demoralized as to turn for- 
tune against him. At the first opportunity Rome punished it for 
siding with Hannibal by extei-minating its leading inhabitants. 
It was finally ruined by the Vandals. Its present population is 
about 10.700. It was here that the King of Naples made his 
last stand in 1860; the strong fort of Gaeta being behind, he 
was defeated by Garibaldi on the first of October. The weather 
was delightful, and our journey to Eome less tedious than long 
rides usually are. We stopped at the Hotel de Russe, which is 
miserably kept, although apparently popular with Americans. 

20th. — Finding the hotels crowded and the best rooms all en- 
gaged, we determined on taking private apartments, as we had con- 
cluded to rest here for six or seven weeks, giving Sade an oppor- 
tunity to take lessons in singing ; fortunately we heard of a fine 
suite of apartments at 18 Piazza del Trinitade Monti, that would 
be vacated in a day or two ; I lost no time in securing them. We 

are indebted to our friends Mr. and Mrs. C d, of New York, for 

the information which led to our getting these rooms. 

21st. — Removed to our new quarters, which we find to be the 
best situated in Rome, being on the Pincian Hill, and command- 
ing a view so beautiful that one could never tire sitting at the 
windows and looking out. The city lay just under our feet, 
flights of steps about eighty feet wide, relieved by broad, circular, 
terraced spaces, extend down to the Piazza di Spagna (the centre 
of the part of the city occupied by foreigners), and further on, 
before us in the valley beneath, lies the vast pile of the Vatican, 
out-topped by the cupola of St. Peter's and the gigantic fortress of 
St. Angelo and the Monte Mario, with the tall pines of the villa 
Pamfili. The amphitheatre of hills extending around covered with 
verdure, and interspersed with villas, stands forth like a dark 
canopy against the distant horizon, while from some of the windows 



150 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

may be seen the broad and beatitiful drive leadinpj to the Pincio 
grounds, with its shade trees, the groves on the Pincian, the 
valley of the Tiber, with its green hills on either side, and in the 
distance, with the bright Italian sky, and the rose-colored clouds 
floating across the deep blue vault of heaven, are charming to look 
upon. Although a lover of nature I never thought that I could 
admire any prospect so much as I do this. My seat at the table 
looks right out upon the green hills, which gives additional enjoy- 
ment to the repast. The air is so soft and balmy as to make 
existence a very bliss. Diagonally opposite stands the church, 
an airy and elegant building with a lofty vaulted roof, and 
aljoining it is the Convent of Trinita de Monti. The nuns are 
mostly French, and chiefly belong to noble families. They devote 
their time to the education of the young, the pupils generally 
being of noble birth. On the opposite side of the church 
is a day school for girls belonging to the poorer classes ; 
a short distance further on the French Academy of Art, 
formerly the Villa Medici, with large and beautiful grounds ; 
it is inhabited by the director and students, who are 
boarded gratuitously and furnished with art materials by the 
French Government. The garden and collection are opened to 
the public. It was from this establishment that our dinners were 
furnished ; we ordered four dinners which cost three francs each, 
which we found ample for five of us and two servants, leaving 
meats enough for breakfast. The dinners were nicely cooked, 
and sent in small tin heaters, and embraced everything except 
bread and wine. Most of the families in Kome are furnished in 
this way. After our long experience in hotel life, we are all 
delighted with the change and are very happy. I was reminded 
of a new home I removed into on the distant Pacific sixteen 
years ago, on which occasion I gave an entertainment to a few 
friends who were welcomed by some lines I had written for 
the occasion. I tried to recall these, but could only recollect three 
verses, which I will embody in my journal, lest I should forget them 
again and waste more valuable time in trying to remember them : 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 151 

A ■welcome, friends, I give to you, 

To this my new-made home ; 
My lyre would breathe a glad'ning strain, 
And wake those joyous scenes again 
Of distant homes, o'er which in vain 

Ohliyion's veil is thrown. 

A welcome ; though our hearts are sad, 

To-night they must be gay. 
No mournful memories undefined. 
Of loved ones we have left behind, 
Or absent hearts 'round ours entwined, 

Must hither find the way, 

A welcome ; may each heart be glad. 

As laughing streamlets are ; 
As joyous as the bright young flowers 
That blossom in the green-wood bowers, 
And soft as music's witching powers, 

That drives away all care. 

After calling to remembrance these lines, we were warned by 
the striking of the bells that the hour for us to retire had 
arrived. 

22d and 2dd. — Nothing special seen or done. 

24:th, Sunday. — We all went to the American Chapel in the 
morning. May and Sade went again in the afternoon, I re- 
maining at home with Howie. 

25th. — A holiday ; most of the places of business closed ; went 
to my bankers, Messrs. Freeborn & Co., in the morning, and found 
letters from home. I spent most of the day in writing. In the 
afternoon we all walked out on the Pincio, where the band was 
playing. It being a gala day the Pincio was crowded with 
grand equipages and pedestrians, presenting a gay and cheerful 
appearance. 

2Qth. — After breakfast went to my bankers to mail some letters, 
and while there read in one of the newspapers an account of 
the proceedings of the last day's session of our Congress, which 
occasioned feelinos of unusual sadness. Thoughts of ancient 



152 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THEOUGH 

Kome rushed hurriedly through my mind ; her rise, her greatnesp, 
and her glory, all came up before me, and as I looked around and 
saw on every side evidences of her decline and hopeless degrada- 
tion, I offered up a silent prayer that our own country might 
escape such a fiate ; but its future now seems dark enough. 
" How are the mighty fallen !" The seats once occupied 
and honored by Clay, Webster, and Calhoun, are now disgraced 
by men who, for their own selfish ends, would sacrifice the 
liberties of their country with as little remorse as they have 
sacrificed truth and justice whenever it stood in their path to 
personal aggrandizement. And the people ; why do they select 
such men to rule over them ? Is it because " whom the gods 
would destroy they first make mad f A country like ours can 
never be successfully governed by fanatics and demagogues. I 
sometimes fear that the people will not realize it until it is too 
late. After leaving the bankers' I went to Piale's library, and 
taking up a book, and opening at random, read an article on 
America. The coincidence seemed so singular that I will quote 
an extract from it : *' A republic is a natural anomaly ; there is 
nothing republican in the construction of the material universe ; 
there be highlands and lowlands, lordly mountains as barren as 
any aristocracy ; lowly valleys as productive as any laboring 
classes. The feeling of rank, of inequality, is inherent in us, 
a part of the veneration of our natures; and like most of 
our properties seldom finds its right channels — in place of v/hich 
it has created artificial ones, suited to the frame of society into 
which the civilized world has formed itself. I believe in my 
heart that a republic is the noblest, highest, and purest form of 
government ; but I believe that, according to the present disposi- 
tion of human creatures, 'tis a mere beau-ideal, totally incapable 
of realization. What the world may be fit for six hundred years 
hence I cannot exactly perceive, but in the mean time 'tis my con- 
viction that America will be a monarchy before I am a skeleton." 
This was written upward of thirty years ago. The writer 1 
believe is still alive. America may not yet be a monarchy, but 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 153 

it is certain that a very large part of it is no longer a republic, 
and has no more word or voice in their government than the 
serfs of Russia or the subjects of the Pope have in theirs. 

21th. — Weather unpleasant. Howie and I went down into the 
city, and went through the Borghese gallery. I was much 
amused by his criticisms on the different pictures ; his fancy was 
generally for the copies, because they were brighter. After 
returning home I wrote in my journal, and read some. The ladies 
complain of being greatly annoyed by fleas, which, thanks for 
their discrimination, seem to have a thorough contempt for me. 

2Sth and 29M. Weather variable. Spent most of the time in 
reading and writing. 

30M. — After breakfast I went to the depot to meet our friend 

Miss S r, of Florence, who had accepted an invitation to make 

us a visit, and was expected in this morning's train. I had to 
wait some time at the depot as the train was behind time ; but it 
finally amved, and after some little delay in getting the baggage 
we drove round to our home, where Miss 8. received a most 
hearty welcome. I went out and spent an hour in walking 
through the crooked streets, and returned in time for dinner. 

31s«. Sunday. — Raining in torrents. My family attended 
church morning and afternoon. I was quite indisposed and did 
not go out, 

7* 



154 JOXJENAL OF ^ TOUE THEOUGH 



APniL. 

ls;.__Kose at eight o'clock with a very uncomfortable feeling 
about the head, which culminated in a sick headache. Went 
down into the city and was glad to get back and be quiet. 

2d to Mh. — I have been much occupied in writing during the 
past four days, going down to the city for half an hour in the 
mornings, and walking or driving on the Pincio for an hour in 
the afternoons. 

Qth. — Wrote during the morning. The afternoon was delight- 
fully passed in driving through the grounds, and visiting the 
museum of the Borghese villa. The grounds, though not very 
extensive, are exceedingly pretty, and remind us vividly of the 
beautiful parks in England. The grass so newly mown, the 
sloping lawn, the fine trees, the heavy foliage, combined with 
extended and varied views, make the Borghese gardens a delight- 
ful drive for an afternoon. The Prince generously opens them to 
the public almost daily. The villa is well worth a visit. There 
are seven or eight rooms on the ground floor, which are shown 
to the public. The first is a large and lofty hall. Its beauties are 
its highest and lowest points, being its ceiling and floor. The 
former is rich in gilding and frescoes ; the latter has four very 
fine mosaics, evidently very old. The other rooms contain very 
many beautiful objects ; in two or three, in the panels are to be 
observed some very fine landscapes ; all the ceilings are very 
elaborately ornamented, the frescoes being principally mytho- 
logical subjects. Some exquisite old vases and urns in old mar- 
bles and porphyry. A fine statue is very remarkable for its 
beauty, being in two colors, the face, arms, hands and feet being 
the purest white marble, while the drapei-y is its bla k and lus- 
trous as the raven's wing. Another figure is oi a su.all Moor, 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 155 

thQ figure of course being black, while the drapery is mixed in 
black and white. 

7M, Sunday. — We all attended church at the American chapel, 
morning and afternoon, and heard good sermons. We have 
been particularly favored in religious privileges since arriving in 
Europe, and I earnestly hope that we have properly appreciated 
them, and that they may be as "seed sown upon good ground." 

Sth. — Nothing special to note down. Spent the day in writing. 

9^A.- — We paid another visit to St. Peter's, which is a world of 
itself, and which one can never finish seeing. While admiring 
the many various and exquisite beauties which so rapidly came 
before us, we were addressed by a lady in a most amiable manner. 
She asked, "Do you wish to see the crypt?" In order to see 
this, a permission is necessary for ladies. We had not thought of 
exploring the wonders of this underground passage, but the lady 
being so very kind as to request us to accompany her and her hus- 
band, making use of her permit we at once consented, and well 
were we repaid for the time occupied in seeing this '*world- 
talked-of crypt." We descended by a small narrow marble stair- 
case near th-e Baldichino. The mysteries seemed at once to com- 
mence when we found ourselves in a low-roofed, underground, 
winding passage, led by a priest, who lighted us v/ith an end of 
a wax candle of enormous size, dripping its grease into a tin pan 
in which it was held ; he seemed somewhat in a hurry, and thought, 
or appeared to think, that we could see the different objects of in- 
terest as quickly as he in his droning voice repeated them to us. 
The chief curiosities, or more correctly speaking, the objects to 
which our attention was called, were relics from the old basilica- 
mosaics, old pavements, low and high reliefs, the tombs of dif- 
ferent cardinals and popes, the mausoleums of the Stuarts, the 
chape] of St. Peter, or rather altar, under which is deposited, 
according to tradition, a part of the body of St. Peter. Mention 
should also be made of a marble statue of St. Peter, which for 
size and position may be called a facsimile of the famous bronze 
statue in the present church. Time and my feeble pen will not 



156 * JOTJENAL OF A TOUB THROUGH 

admit of a more detailed and graphic description of this crypt, 
Vi hich all lovers of old and curious works of art should not fail 
to Tisit. Then we went through the picture gallery again, which 

our friend Miss S enjoyed much. We also visited a loggia, 

which is newly and most beautifully frescoed. The ceilings repre- 
sent the scenes of our Savior's sufferings, death, and resurrection, 
in twenty-eight separate paintings. The walls are covered with 
designs and representation of almost every conceivable thing, 
which were admirably executed. The artist, ^Signor Montovani, 
deserves great credit for his work. 

lOth to ISth. — Was occupied most of the time in writing, 
driving out in the afternoon, and going down into the city for a 
short time in the morning. The event of the week was the illu- 
mination on Friday evening, in commemoration of the preserva- 
tion of the present Pope's life some years since, on the occasion 
of the falling of a floor, on which he, with others, was standing. 
It would be difficult to give a description of this brilliant affair. 
Wood and wire frames arranged to hold small glasses and earthen or 
metal cups, were placed in front of many of the buildings, and around 
columns and obelisks, which are so profusely scattered through the 
city, differing in shape and design, according to the various tastes 
of the artificers or owners of the buildings. The glasses are filled 
with oil, each having a taper in it, and the cups with common 
grease, in which are large wicks. These make a strong and bril- 
liant light, and in the distance present a beautiful appearance, as 
they are swayed to and fro by the wind. The obelisks are partic- 
ularly beautiful, being generally of great height, and having a 
row of lights extending from the bottom to the top on each 
corner. In front of some of the houses, pictures are arranged 
behind the lights, which, with the various devices, present an ap- 
pearance at once beautiful, and unlike anything I have ever seen. 
Our square wa? particularly brilliant. The steps leading up 
from the Piazzo di Spagna nearly half a square in width, had 
rows of lights running all the way up ; and against the walls of 
each terrace an almost innumerable number of the small lights 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 157 

were prettily arranged in the frames which had been placed there, 
and the obelisk near ourwindows was quite as profusely decorated. 
St. Peter's in the distance was a prominent feature in the illumina- 
tion. The family drove through the streets, and saw nearly all 
of the principal points ; while I contented myself with a general 
view from our window, going out only a short time to the 
Quirinal palace, which was, perhaps, the most brilliant part 
of the illumination. Some of the palaces exhibited different 
colored hghts, which from our window presented a pleasing 
variety. 

14 thf Sunday. — "We all went to the American chapel in the 
morning and afternoon, and heard two very excellent sermons. 
The one in the morning was from Matthew xxxi. 22. The 
speaker dwelt at length on the great danger of our betraying 
Christ, if not like Judas for the thirty pieces of silver, by allow- 
ing some other one of our sinful propensities to get the mastery 
of us. Judas, he said, was probably sincere when he first came 
to the Savior, and we should learn from his fall, ever to be 
watchful and distrustful of ourselves. " Let him who thinketh 
he standeth, take heed lest he fall." The afternoon text was from 
Matthew, 11th, 12th, and 14th verses of the 6th' chap., a part of 
the Lord's prayer, and his own full and forcible explanation of the 
11th verse, as given in the 14th. The point on which he dwelt 
longest, and the principal onein his sermon, was the absolute neces- 
sity of forgiving our enemies — those who had trespassed against 
US — before God could forgive us. His arguments were clear, 
forcible, and unanswerable, and I could not but contrast them with 
the doctrines so generally proclaimed during the past few years in 
our own country by many ministers of the gospel (erroneously so- 
called), for St. Paul says, "There be some that would trouble you, 
and would pervert the gospel of Christ. But though we, or an 
angel from Heaven, preach any other gospel *unto you than that 
we have preached unto you, let him be accursed." I wonder 
how men and women professing to be Christians can believe and 
tolerate those who teach hatred and revenge. 



158 JOUKNAL OF A TOUB THEOUGH 

16th. — In the morning Howie and I went down into the citj^, 

and mailed some letters. Miss Ida U , of New York, 

spent a part of the morning with May and Sade. In, the after- 
noon we all went over to the Vatican to see the Pope, having 
previously procured our tickets of admission, without which no 
one can be presented. The tickets designate the dress to be worn. 
Ladies in black, with veils — gentlemen in black dress coats, and 
white cravats. The reception was at five p. m., and was held in 
the chart-hall in the Vatican — a very long hall with seats ar- 
ranged on each side. Before the hour arrived there were several 
hundred persons assembled, all of whom were conducted through 
the long corridors and into the hall, by servants or dignitaries, 
dressed in short breeches and a sort of frock, or short gown of 
red damask, red stockings and shoes. The visitors were all seated 
on one side of the hall until that was filled, when they were placed 
on each side of the far end. A little after five the Pope entered, 
escorted to the door by a file of his Swiss guard, in their harle- 
quin dress of black, red, and yellow, in broad stripes. He wore 
a white gown with a skull-cap of white silk, and was preceded by 
two functionaries, who received the tickets of admission, and an- 
nounced the names and country of the visitors. He commenced 
at one end going the entire length, blessing all who knelt, and 
having a word or two for many ; smiling, and sometimes laughing 
slightly at the remarks addressed to him. I did not kneel, and 
consequently failed to receive his blessing. After going around 
and giving a special blessing to all who desired it, he ascended a 
platform and made a short address in French, after which he 
descended, and left by the same door through which he had en- 
tered, loudly cheered by the crowd as he passed out. There were 
fewer Americans than are usually present. T noticed some, how- 
ever, and Protestants, too, who had strings of rosaries to be blessed, 
to take home to the "Irish servants," as they said. Some of 
these belonged to that numerous class of Americans now in Europe, 
who at home are very circumspect in externals, but when away 
are "all things to all men," and on their return will probably 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 159 

be loud in their denunciations against Romanism and the 
''miserable Irish Catholics." 

16th. — Nothing special seen or done to-day. In the evening 

we attended a reception at Dr. G d's, and met a number 

of Americans ; among them Mr. J. W. B e, of New 

York, whose father is one of my most valued friends ; we were 
glad to see him, and to hear from the family. Spent a pleasant 
evening. 

11 ih. — May, Sade, and Miss Cad went to the Sistine Chapel 
to witness some of the ceremonies, and hear the Miserere. 
Through the politeness of Miss Cad's aunt, who is attached to the' 
Portuguese embassy, they had been kindly furnished with tickets 
of admission into the reserved seats and tribunes of the embassy. 
This obviated the necessity of their going several hours in 
advance of the services, and pushing their way through the 
crowd to get seats or standing-room. Howie and I visited some 
galleries and picture-rooms. 

ISth. — Woke up with a very severe headache. The ladies 
went to St. Peter's to witness the washing of feet and the supper. 
After going through various ceremonies, the Pope washes the 
feet of thirteen priests or deacons, called pilgrims and apostles. 
He uses a silver-gilt basin, and after wiping, he kisses the foot 
of each, and presents him" with a nosegay and a gold and silver 
medal. The whole of this ridiculous ceremony is closed by the 
Pope intoning the Pater Noster, and reciting the closing prayer. 
These thirteen are afterward conducted into one of the halls of 
the Vatican, where a table is spread. Prayers being said the 
Pope gives his blessing, and with an apron tied round him, he 
pours water on the hands of his apostles, passes them sundry 
dishes, and wine twice, gives another blessing, and retires. 

During the evening the washing of the feet and serving at the 
table are performed in various churches by the nobility, both 
men and women. 

I received very unsatisfactory letters from home, which did not 
serve as an antidote to my headache. Thuiking that a drive 



160 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR THEOUGH 

might benefit me, we all went over to St. Peter's at about five 
p. M. to hear the Miserere, and see the washmg of the altar, but 
owing to my headache, we remained only a short time, and of 
course failed to witness the ceremonies. The altar is washed, 
first with wine, and afterward with water, preceded and succeeded 
by numerous ceremonies. I did not learn the meaning of the 
ceremony. 

19^/z. — My headache had increased to such an extent during 
the night as to prevent my sleeping. Toward noon it abated, and 
I rose, and after dressing, took a cup of cofl^ee. In the afternoon 
1 answered some letters of business, but did not feel well enough 
to go out. The ladies were out a short time, but did not attend 
any of the ceremonies of Good Friday. The ceremonies of the 
week are very numerous, and some, I may add, very novel. It 
was my intention to have given a description of such of them as 
1 witnessed, but owing to ill-health I did not attend, and cannot, 
of course, do so. 

2Qth. — Morning bright and weather delightful; went down to 
the bankers, and mailed some letters ; found my headache return- 
ing, in consequence of the exercise, and came home. None of 
the church bells, not even those of the clocks, are allowed 
to ring from twelve m. on Thursday until eleven a. m. on Satur- 
day. In this city of bell-ringing, one misses these sounds as he 
would the surge of the ocean. As soon as that hour arrived they 
all commenced, as if determined to make up for lost time ; and 
such a clattering! — one would think that all the bells of Bedlam 
(if they have bells there) had been let loose, and a full license 
given to make a ** confusion of sounds." Woe unto the weak- 
nerved who are in Rome on the Saturday following Good 
Friday. 

The Rev. Dr. P -p, a cousin by marriage of Miss Cad, dined 

with us to-day. He is a convert from Judaism, and is an exceed* 
ingly intelligent gentleman. Pie has resided in Palestine, and 
travelled in the East, and gave us a glowing picture of boat-life 
on the Nile, and urged strongly that we should extend our visit 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 161 

to the East before returning to America. This was a part of our 
programme, but circumstances seem to indicate that we shall 
have to return without enjoying this wish of ray life. In the 
evening we went to an illumination of the Colosseum. It was one 
of those things which cannot be described ; the effect produced by 
the noble edifice, as it stands out against the calm, clear sky of 
midnight, is truly sublime. The lights were of several different 
colors, and would change at times, as if by magic. The effect, as 
they burned up brightly and then faded away, was singular. At 
one time they were reduced to a soft moonlight ; at another, would 
burn up like a red Italian sunset. The old ruins, with the lights 
streaming through their arches, falling sometimes brightly, some- 
times dimly upon the broken walls and columns, presented an ap- 
pearance of grandeur, strength, and decay not easily described. 
They seemed a fit emblem of the city of the Caesars. The lights 
were all inside at first, but later the outside was illuminated, pro- 
ducing, if possible, even a more brilliant effect than at the begin- 
ning. A singular incident was the consternation among some 
pigeons which had taken up their abode in these ruins. Being 
unceremoniously disturbed, they were flying around and darting 
through the openings, as if at a loss to comprehend the meaning 
of this sudden brilliancy and the crowds of nocturnal visitors 
trespassing upon their domain. There was a good band of 
music, and the most perfect order prevailed among the thousands 
who thronged the place. 

21st, Sunday. — May and I went to St. Peter's in the morning, 
Sade and Howie preferring to go to the Protestant Church. May 
and Miss Cad being in the train of the Duke of Saldania (the Por- 
tuguese Ambassador), were admitted into the tribune of the Em- 
bassy, while I, in consequence of having neglected to wear a dress 
coat, had to take my place with the "unwashed." On account 
of the large crowds I was not able to see any of the ceremonies in 
the church. I heard a part in Latin, which was all "Greek" to 
me. The most prominent feature in the ceremonies was the 
sounding of the silver trumpets. These were stationed in differ- 



162 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THEOUGH 

ent places, high up in the dome, out of view, and the sounds 
seemed, as a friend observed, to come down from heaven. They 
were very melodious, and, if separated from the surrounding??, 
would have been impressive. After the ceremonies in the church 
were ended, the people repaired to the piazza (or square) in front 
of the church, where the Pope's army was drawn up. His 
Holiness was then carried in his portable chair, amid the ringing 
of bells, to an upper window in front of the church, from 
which he blessed the people, and was carried back amid the 
shouts of the assemblage, waving of handkerchiefs, firing of 
cannon, and other demonstrations, not unlike those we expe- 
rience at our Fourth of July celebrations. The whole thing 
impressed me with feelings of sadness ; for it seemed a wilful 
perversion of divine worship and eternal truth for selfish end?. 
Not one of the vast crowd appeared to think for a single moment 
that a religious ceremony was going forward. All were busily 
engaged in talking, laughing, and moving about, appearing more 
thoughtless and indifferent to the proceedings than persons gen- 
erally are at ordinary festivals. In the afternoon we went to the 
American Chapel, and heard a plain and forcible sermon from a 
part of the Lord's Prayer, " Lead us not into temptation, but de- 
liver us from evil." In the evening St. Peter's was illuminated. 
V/e had a fine view from our windows, and a more brilliant sight 
is rarely seen in one's lifetime. The dome was covered with 
thousands upon thousands of lights, which, during the even- 
ing, change suddenly from a light and silver-like appearance to 

one of gold. Mr. J. W. B e dined with us to-day. He has 

been spending a year in Germany, for the purpose of acquiring 
the language, and is now travelling in Italy. Quite a number 
came up in the evening to see the illumination from our win- 
dows. 

22d. — After breakfast took a stroll down into the city. On 
returning wrote up my Journal and read the remainder of the 
day. In the evening there was a grand display of fireworks ou 
the Piazzo del Popolo. We did not go down, but had a partial 



GEEAT BEITAIN AM) ON THE CONTINENT. 163 

view of it from our windows. It surpassed anything of the kind 
we had ever seen. One of the most perfect representations was 
that of shoals of fish, numbering hundreds, darting through the air, 
and all keeping together, just as they are seen to do in the water. 
During the intervals a park of artillery, stationed at different 
points on the Pincio, fired rounds. The display opened and closed 
with an immense fountain of fire, more than a hundred feet high, 
and fifty at least in circumference, which excelled in splendor 
all the others. The streams of fire would go up like water, 
and bursting, come down in innumerable bright jets, making a 
representation not to be described. Rome is the place for illu- 
minations and fireworks ; all others that we have ever seen are, 
when compared with these, as rivers compared with the ocean. 

2od to 27^/?.— Have not been well during the week ; May and 
Howie have also been quite indisposed. All of us are troubled 
with coughs and some fever. I consulted a physician and took 
medicine. We drove a short distance out of the city on Tuesday 
afternoon. The ride was uncomfortable, in consequence of wind 
and dust. We remained within most of Wednesday, Thursday, 
and Friday. We had fixed upon the last-named day for making an 
excursion to Tivoli, but had to postpone it, as neither May nor I 
were well enough for it. On Saturday we drove around to some 
studios, saw some beautiful landscapes at Mr. Knebel's, two in 
particular, representing different views of the Lake of Albano; 
several fine views of the Campagna and surrounding mountains 
at Mr. Strutt's ; and some good views of Baite and vicinity, at 
Mr. A. Vertumnai's. We visited other studios, but saw no pic- 
tures that we liked so well as these. The prices asked were 
high — more than I felt I could afford to pay. 

28iA, Sunday, — Sade, Howie, and I went to the American 
Chapel in the morning ; May was not well enough to go out. A 
minister whom we did not know preached. He gave us a very 
good sermon from 1st Corinthians, x. 31. The truth which he 
endeavored most to impress upon the minds of his congregation 
was the one set forth in the verse of his text, " do all to the 



164 JOUKNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

glory of God." In our eating ar.d drinking, in our daily avoca- 
tions, and in the various pursuits of life, we should bear the 
great truth in mind. We might not, said he, be as directly 
blessed by attending to the temporal affairs of life as by the 
fnithful performance of the ordinances of the church and the 
direct worship of God, but by following the former upon the 
principles set forth in the text, we could equally glorify God, and 
that should be the great aim of the Christian. He dwelt at 
some length on the proposition, that God looks at and judges not 
our simple acts but the motives which prompt them. This he 
sustained by numerous illustrations, none of which were more 
forcible than that used by our Savior in reference to the poor 
widow casting her two mites into the treasury. Sade, Howie, 
and Cad attended church in the afternoon. I remained in with 
May. 

29th. — Having been obliged to defer our excursion to Tivoli 
on Friday last, we decided to make it to-day, but hearing from 
some acquaintance who had been out on Saturday, that the 
roads were almost impassable in consequence of dust, we con- 
cluded to abandon our visit to Tivoli altogether, and go to 
Albano. The morning was unpropitious, the clouds moved 
lazily over the city, and wore a threatening aspect ; yet as our 
carriages were at the door, and we had been disappointed on 
Friday, we determined to start, and accordingly left at about 

eight o'clock. We were joined by Mrs. U and her daughter, 

but had hardly got outside of the gates of the city before the rain 
commenced. We did not fancy crossing the Campagna in a rain- 
storm, not even for the privilege of passing over the Appian Way, 
and as the prospects seemed to favor a continuance of the rain, 
w^e returned. Not being willing to lose the day, I ordered a 
close carriage, and we made a second visit to the Basilica of the 
Lateran, and after going through it, we drove to the small Basil- 
ica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (the Holy Cross from Jeru- 
salem), founded by Constantine A. D. 331, on the site of the 
Csesarean Palace of Sextus Varius, the fathe-r of Elagabalus, from 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 165 

which it is also called the Cresarean Basilica. Its present name 
was given to it in consequence of its having in it what is sdid to 
be a portion of the true cross, brought by the Empress Plelena 
from Jerusalem. How this "portion of the true cross" was 
found by her some two hundred years after Jerusalem had been to- 
tally destroyed hy Vespasian and Titus, and its very foundations 
razed, the lying legends of the middle ages too particularly in- 
form us.* The basilica is small and plain, with richly gilt ceilings 
and some frescoes, by Pinturicchio, representing Helena searching 
for the cross, together with some other subjects. Underneath and 
behind the choir, and reached by stairs, is the Chapel of St. Helena. 
The roof is decorated with mosaics of the sixteenth century, and 
under the floor is earth brought by her from Jerusalem. Pope 
Sylvester H. expired as he was saying mass in this basilica. We 
drove to St, Maria Maggiore, which we had visited before, and 
after going through, we paid a second visit to several studios, 
where we saw a number of very pretty paintings. In the afternoon 
we drove to the villa Doria-Pamfili, the grounds of which are ex- 
tensive, varied, and beautiful. Groves, lawns, fountains, and cas- 
cades, with a neatly laid-oat flower-garden, and a good view from 
the top of the villa, combine to make it a beautiful place. The 
Princess and some of her friends were playing croquet on a lawn 
at the end of the villa. We all enjoyed the drive. May was 
quite unwell during the evening, and retired early. 

2>Qth. — Morning bright and pleasant. May not being well re- 

* The story is, that Helena found a Jew, named Judas, who, though 
he knew the very place where the three crosses were bimed, yet refused 
to reveal the spot. Whereupon the Empress commanded him to be put 
into a well, and there tormented by hunger six days. This brought liim 
to terms ; and he not only showed her where they were, but dug them 
up. Which of the three was the cross of Christ was determined by lay- 
ing them, one after the other, upon a dead man and a sick woman. The 
true cross raised the dead and healed the sick ! Mrs. Jameson says that 
she beheves that this legend was oace understood in an allegorical sense ; 
bat there is no proof that it Wiia ever so understood. 



166 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THEOUaH 

mained in bed. Sade, Cad, and I drove to the post-office, and 
from there went to the Vatican gallery to look at some copies, 
none of which we liked. On our return we stopped at the Bor- 

ghese Palace, and afterward came home. Miss Cad, Mr. B e. 

May, and Sade drove out in the afternoon. I remained in and 
wrote letters. May's cough becoming more troublesome in the 
afiernoonj we sent for a physician. 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 167 



MAY. 

Ist. — The doctor came in again this morning, and found 
May quite sick. Sade drove out witli Mrs. Cleveland in the after- 
noon. I remained in most of the day. 

2d. — Miss Cad, Sade, and I visited Castle St. Angelo. We saw 
three dark vaults which were formerly used as prisons, and went 
into the one in which Beatrice Cenci is said to have been impris- 
oned. Death itself would be a welcome deliverer from such a 
gloomy abode. The view from the top of the castle is fair, and 
gives a good idea of the city, better indeed than we have had frona 
any other point. We drove from here to St. Peter's, and took a 
parting look through the interior, after which we returned home. 
May was a little better, and dressed for dinner. Her cough is 
still bad, and the doctor has advised us to go to Albano for a few 
days, which we hope to do day after to-morrow. 

3d. — Spent most of the day in paying housekeeping bills, and 
having inventory of furniture taken, preparatory to leaving. We 
have enjoyed our six weeks' residence on Trinita de Monte ex- 
ceedingly, and on some accounts shall leave it with regret. We 
shall miss the charming and commanding views more than any- 
thing else. From our windows we have seen the Italian sunsets 
in all of their ever-varying hues, not so gorgeous as we sometimes 
see them in America, but softer and more delicate in coloring, 
and in consequence far more beautiful. When the sun sinks 
down behind the hills, and their shadows are thrown far over the 
valley and upon the city, the reflection of its rays upon the 
cupola of St. Peter's and other high objects forms a pleasing con- 
trast, and in connection with the different tints of the clouds and 
sky, makes a picture that is Italian in ail its parts. 

4.t/i. — After breakfast we bade adieu to our transient home, 



168 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

and left in company with the TJ — — s and Mr. B e for 

Albano; we to spend several days, our friends to return in the 
afternoon. Mr. B. rode out in our carriage. The day w^as 
very warm, and a part of the way dusty, and although the road 
is a good one, we all felt a little tired, particularly May, who is 
very weak. We passed out at the Porta San Giovanni, and 
went over the new Appian Way, which leads across the Via 
Latina about two miles from the gate, and then for some seven 
miles further runs parallel with the old Via Appia. Numerous 
fragments of the old aqueducts and ruins of tombs are scattered 
over the Campagna, the latter being mostly on the Via Appia, and 
prominent among these are those of Csecilia Metella, and Casale 
Rotondo, supposed to be the sepulchre of Messala Corrinus, the 
historian, orator, and poet, the friend of Augustus and Horace, 
who died in the eleventh year of our era. It was erected by his 
son, Marcus Aurelius Messalinus Cotta, who was consul A. D. 
20. On this immense circular tomb, high above the level of the 
ground, are several farm buildings and an olive garden. A short 
distance before reaching the Alban hills we came upon emana- 
tions of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, and stopped a few minutes to 
examine the place from which it came. Just beyond here the 
road joins the old Via Appia, the line of which it follows to 
Albano ; further on are the ruins of Bovillaa, with ruins of circus 
and amphitheatre. After ascending the hill we had a good view 
of the Campagna. It is spread out like a great bay, as far as the 
eye can reach, while Rome, with its numerous domes and towers, 
appears in the distance like one of those volcanic islands which 
voyagers describe. On the left the Mediterranean is seen like an 
immense plain of burnished silver. 

*« Here the soul can flee, 
And with the sky, the peak, the heaving plain 
Of ocean, or the stars, mingle, and not in vain." 

Near the gate of the town is a monument four stories high, 
supposed to be that of Pompey, whose ashes were brought from 
Egypt by his wife Cornelia and deposited here. The town of 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 169 

Albano is one thousand two hundred and fifty feet above the 
sea, and is celebrated for its beautiful surroundings. It occupies 
a part of the ground of the villas of Pompey and Domitian, 
traces of the ruins of which are still visible. Its population is 
about six thousand. The neighborhood is covered with traces 
of the villas of the ancient Romans. The ruins of the Amphi- 
theatre, erected by Domitian, and mentioned by Juvenal as the 
scene of the most revoltinsi; cruelties of the last and worst of the 
Caesars, are yet seen. After dinner Miss U., Mr. B., and Sade 
made a donkey excursion, visiting the Lake of Albano and the 
ruins of the amphitheatre. Italian donkeys are not given to 
fast travelling, and while the party could have had none of 
the exhilarating feelings which are inspired by managing spirited 
chargers, they enjoyed the novelty of the ride. Mrs. U., Miss 
Cad, Howie, and I drove to the lake. It is in the crater of a vol- 
cano long since extinct, and is said to be very deep. It is prettily 
situated, but in point of beauty did not come up to our expecta- 
tions. May was not well, and remained in. After tea wrote up 
my Journal and retired. 

oth^ Sunday. — There is no Protestant church in the place, and 
we did not attend public worship. Howie and I walked to 
L'Ariccia, about a mile distant, passing over the new viaduct or 
bridge running across the deep ravine and connecting the towns of 
Albano and L'Ariccia. It consists of three superposed ranges of 
arches, six on the lower tier, twelve on the central, and eighteen 
on the upper one, the height of each being sixty feet, and the width 
forty-nine between the piers ; the entire length is one thousand 
and tv/enty feet. It was built by the present Pope, and com- 
pleted in 1853, and is a fine structure. We went into the Cath- 
olic church near the end of the bridge, and after remaining a few 
raohaents, returned to our hotel. In the afternoon we prevailed 
on May, who was not well enough to walk, to take a short drive, 
and get a little sunshine and fresh air. We never drive on Sun- 
day for pleasure, but it seemed a necessity for May to go out, as 
our rooms were a little damp, and she needed air and exercise. 

8 



170 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

We drove for about tliirty minutes, and Maj felt much better 
after returning, I read the book of Malachi aiou(J to May, Cad, 
and Howie ; Sade read alone in her room. 

Qth. — After breakfast we left by carriage for a drive and went 
first to the Villa Csesarini, passing over the new Appian Way. 
The road is superb, being paved the entire length with what we call 
Belgian pavement, and having stone bridges from 100 to 200 feet 
high over a number of ravines, thus obviating the necessity of 
going up and down the hills. , On each side are rows of trees 
forming a refreshing shade, and thus adding greatly to the beauty 
as well as the comfort of a drive. We were allowed to go into 
the grounds of the villa, which are large and very pretty, extend- 
ing down to the edge of Lake Nemi. From these grounds the 
best view of the lake is had. It is much smaller than that of 
Albano, but far more beautiful and romantic. Like the former, it 
occupies the site of an ancient volcanic crater, the form of which, 
however, is more fully preserved. We retraced our steps for 
about two-thirds of the way, and turning to the right, we entered 
upon a real country road, shady and wild, leading to the upper 
end of Lake Albano, whence the view was much better than that 
of Saturday-. We returned, passing the Castel Gandolfo, one of 
the Pope's country residences, and entered upon the road over 
which we passed on Saturday. This road is one continued 
avenue of fine old trees, beach and ilex, the sturdy oak and sombre 
olive, interspersed with the gloomy pine, standing in silent and 
solemn dignity, and reminding one of an exile from his countrj^, 
doomed to live among a people totally unlike himself, and with 
whom he can never assimilate. We dined at two o'clock, after 
which Sade, Howie, and I walked some distance up the road, and 
entered a field where we gathered a number of wild flowers, among 
which were the pansy, forget-me-not, and sweet pea. I omitted to 
say that we stopped at the Hotel de la Post, where the accommo- 
dations were only tolerable. We left at half-past four, and had a 
very pleasant drive to Eome, stopping at the Hotel de 1' Europe. 
Our apartments were superior to any that we have had since leaving 



GEEAT BSITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 171 

America. Mr. B e called in the evening, and also Mrs. U. ' 

and daughter, and several of Cad's friends. May's cough is 
better ; the excursion seems to have benefited her. 

1th. — We expected to have left for Florence this morning, 
stopping a day at Terni to see the falls, but having heard last 
evening that quite a large party were going to-day, we determined 
to delay our departure until to-morrow, as the accommodations 
at Terni are limited. 

Rome is situated on the Tiber, about eighteen miles above its 
mouth. The modern city is built on the plain, which lies on each 
bank of the river, and on the slopes of the adjacent hills, and is 
enclosed by walls about twelve miles in circumference, and from 
fifteen to twenty feet high on the outside. On the inside they are 
in some places fifty feet high (the difference is owing to the accu- 
mulation of rubbish on the outer side). There are some twelve or 
fourteen gates. The Tiber winds for several miles through the 
city from north to south, dividing it into two unequal parts. It is 
crossed by four bridges, three of stone and one suspension — a toll is 
charged on the latter. There are only two quays, or landings. The 
banks in most places are perpendicular, and the walls of the build- 
ings generally extend down to the water's edge. The water is dark 
and muddy. The streets are mostly narrow, but are reheved by 
some one hundred and fifty openings, or squares, generally small, 
though some of them are large. These are ornamented with foun- 
tains, columns, obelisks, and statuary. With the exception of the 
Corso, which is the street of the city, there are none others with 
sidewalks. The houses are mostly large, and arranged into apart- 
ments (it being the custom here to live in apartments), and are very 
high. The best houses have a court large enough for carriages to 
drive and turn in. It is not an uncommon thing for the stables to 
be on the floor opening into this court. Water is plentiful and 
good ; this in European cities, as far, at least, as our experience 
goes, is unusual. The city is supplied by the remaning ancient 
aqueducts, built above ground on arches. There are some fifty 
public fountains, besides smaller ones, numbering upward of five 



172 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

hundred. The principal drive and promenade is on the Pincian hill 
(there are, however, numerous others, beautiful drives in various 
directions, out of the city). This one was laid out by the French, 
and although exceedingly beautiful, is very limited for a drive ; 
it is a sort of rendezvous for the Roman ladies and gentlemen, 
where they meet in the afternoon and exchange the courtesies 
of the day. The grounds are handsomely ornamented, and are 
kept in excellent order. There are about three hundred and 
eighty churches in the city, the combined wealth of which is enor- 
mous. The ecclesiastical dignitaries, including monks and nuns, 
number about six thousand five hundred, or one-thirtieth of the 
entire population, which is a little under two hundred thousand. 
The people seem contented with their government and condition ; 
upon the principle, I suppose, that " where ignorance is bliss, 'tis 
folly to be wise." The Campagna, or flat country around the 
city, is divided into immense tracts belonging to a few individuals 
and religious bodies. The effect of the present rule is summed up 
by Dr. Wardsworth : " Uncultivated tracts of land even to the 
gates of Rome ; grass growing in the streets, a large part of the 
city itself untenanted ; the commerce of the place languishing ; 
its marine traffic represented by two or three wretched steamers, 
and three or four barges now lying at the port of Ripetta ; the 
streets swarming with beggars; an organized system of espionage ; 
and the confessional itself used as an instrument of police." 

As regards the traditions of the Church, referring to relics, 
places, etc., connected with the early Christians, and especially St. 
Paul, St. Peter, and others spoken of in the Bible, I believe that 
nine out of ten are fabrications invented by unscrupulous persons, 
for the purpose of raising money to erect churches and for other 
objects. I do not recollect to have seen any evidence that St. 
Peter, the apostle to the circumcised, was ever in Rome ; but be 
this as it may, I am very sure that no boards from the manger in 
which our Savior was laid, nor " the table on which the last supper 
was eaten," nor the cross upon which he was crucified, ever found 
their way here, and yet all Catholics are more firmly fixed in their 



GEE AT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 173 

belief of these stories than they are in the truths of the Bible. 
Begging is one of the institutions of Eome, and the stranger is 
beset by unfortunates as he passes along. They have their par- 
ticular stands, and one rarely trespasses upon the domains of his 
neighbor. Many are crippled and deformed, and are real objects 
of charity. On Saturdays the poorer classes go around to the 
shops, when small sums are given to them by the proprietors. 

The relations between the hiG;her and lower classes are different 
from most places. The lower classes always expect to be treated 
with courtesy and respect by those whom they serve, but they in 
turn treat their superiors with deference ; not with abject, hypo- 
critical servility, but with free good will and kindness. 

8^^. — We left in the 11 o'clock train for Term, and arrived 
at five. Stopped at the Hotel de 1' Europe, where the accommo- 
dations were poor, but servants obliging. The train which arrived 
at Rome just as we were starting, brought in some ten or twelve 
brigands, who had been recently captured. They were nearly all 
young men, some mere boys, and all had intelligent faces. They 
were in charge of a company of soldiers. A part of the country 
through which we passed was picturesque, but the day was so 
intensely warm that we did not enjoy it much, preferring to keep 
the curtains down and shut out the sun's rays to looking out at 
the scenery. Terni, the Roman Interamna, is a very old town, 
with narrow streets and dingy-looking houses. Its population is 
about thirteen thousand. As we were tired we remained in our 
rooms. 

9th. — After an early breakfast Sade, Cad, Howie, and I drove 
to the falls. May was not well and preferred to remain in and 
rest. The road for a part of the way is very good, and, like so 
many others in Italy, is cut out of the steep sides of the mountains. 
The falls are at the junction of Nera and Velino, about five miles 
above the town. Like those of Tivoli, these falls are artificial in 
their origin, having been made to drain the valley of Velino, by 
widening a cut through a cliff, so as to allow the water to fall 
into the Nera. The work was done 271 years B. C, by the 



174 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

Consul M C. Dentatus. The channel is about fifty feet wide, 
and the total fall about four hundred and fifty feet, in three leaps, 
and a number of rapids. The middle fall is about two hundred 
feet. The falls are picturesque, and very pretty, but to those who 
have seen Niagara they appear small and insignificant. The 
surrounding country may be termed wild and grand, being a suc- 
cession of high and broken mountains of barren rocks, and almost 
entirely destitute of verdure. Byron refers to these falls as 

" Horribly beautiful ! but on the verge, 

From side to side, beneath the glittering mom, 

An Iris sits, amidst the infernal surge, 

Like hope upon a death-bed, 

********* 

Eesembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, 
Love watohing madness "with unalterable mien." 

After viewing the falls from several different points, we returned 
to the hotel and, left in the 12:25 p. m. train for Florence, arriving 
at 10, and stopping at the Hotel I'Univers, a new and well- 
constructed house, handsomely furnished, but by no means well 
kept, and the landlord is disposed to take every advantage, and 
does not hesitate to impose in every possible manner upon his 
guests, charging whenever he can more than double price for any 
article ordered. The railroad soon after leaving Terni enters a 
deep gorge, and runs for some distance through it and others, of 
great depth, and in many places too narrow at the bottom for the 
track, which had to be cut out of the steep sides of the mountain. 
It is often damaged here when the floods come down to such 
an extent as to interrupt travel. The grade in places is very 
steep, and the trains crawl up very slowly, or go down at light- 
ning speed. The road for the most of the way after leaving 
these ravines passes through valleys varying in width, some of 
which are very pleasant. Among the towns which we passed- 
are Spoleto, population about twenty thousand ; Foligno, the junc- 
tion of the Ancona and Florence Railways, population twenty 
thousand. This town overlooks the valley of the Clitumnus, or 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 175 

Maroggia, faraousTor its long-horned white cattle, which in ancient 
times famished victims for the triumphs and sacrifices. Assist^ 
an old wall town, overlooking the valley of the Topino, a branch 
of the Tiber, with a population of thirteen thousand. Perugia, 
which has a population of forty-two thousand, stands on the sum- 
mit of a double-top hill, about one thousand feet high, and is sur- 
rounded by an old wall six miles in circuit. The plague of 1398 
carried off one hundred thousand inhabitants of the city and its 
environs, but it escaped the cholera of the present century. We 
regretted that it was not convenient for us to stop here, more for 
the purpose of seeing some of Perugino's pictures, which are con- 
sidered by many to be among the most religious in Italy, than 
for visiting the town, which, however, is, for its antiquity and 
historical associations, a place of more than ordinaiy interest.* It 
was here that the Pope's Swiss mercenaries (sometimes called 
"the Lord's Swiss") in 1849 made a wanton attack upon the 
inhabitants, killing the landlord of the Hotel de France, and 
injuring some members of an American family who were at 
the hotel. The city was at one time celebrated for its emi- 
nent men of learning, as well as for- its school of painting. 
The railroad, after passing Perugia, winds around the sides of 
the Lake Thrasimene, or Lago Trasimeno, which is eight miles 
in length, while its greatest depth is only about twenty feet. It 
was near this lake that Hannibal made his celebrated flank 
movement against Flaminius, and defeated his army with great 
loss. We next passed Cortona, with a population of twenty- 
five thousand, and Arezzo, with thirty-seven thousand. All of 
the towns are situated on hills, having been located more with 
a view to defence than for convenience. They present a very 
striking appearance at a distance, and ''distance" here unques- 
tionably "lends enchantment," as their streets are narrow and 



* Perugino's real name was P, Vannucci ; he took the former from 
Perugia, where he learned his art. He was teacher of Eaphael, the great 
founder of the Eoman schooL 



176 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

bettQr calculated for donkeys than carriage^, and are by no means 
attractive to the walker. The day was intensely hot, and we had 
to ride with the curtains down to keep the sun out ; consequently 
I had only partial views of the country over which we passed. 
We were all glad when we reached Florence, as we were very 
much fatigued by our long ride. 

\Oth. — 1 went out early and attended to some business, and 
was glad to get back to the hotel, as the day was intensely warm. 
1 1th to 18th. — The wreath er has continued warm. I was out 
during the morning of the 11th, and the heat seemed more in- 
tense and oppressive than at midsummer in New York. During 
the evening of that day I felt quite unwell, and being somewhat 
nervous about the Roman fever, called in a physician, who at 
once relieved my apprehensions by informing me that I had no 
fever at all, but only a slight derangement of the digestive organs. 
He gave some medicine and advised that I should remain quiet 
until the weather became cooler. I had been very busy, and was 
glad for an excuse to rest. The family were out almost every 
day. 

On Sunday, 12th, Bade went with the S s to church. May 

and Howie remained within doors. 

This evening (18th) May and Sade have gone to the Villa Vic- 
toria (the residence of our friends, the S s). This family have 

been very kind to us, some of them have been with us all the time, 
sending their carriage or coming with it to take us out every day. 
The past week has been a blank " to me, so far as sight-seeing is 
concerned, as I did not deem it prudent to expose myself to the 
heat ; but I hope in other respects the time has not been lost. I 
humbly trust that my "light afflictions, which are but for a moment, 
may work out for me a far more exceeding and eternal weight of 
glory.'' 

19?^, Sunday. — Sade went to church in the morning with the 

S s. May and Howie did not go out. The S s came in 

to see us. 

20th to 2oth. — My health has improved during the past few 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 177 

days. I drove around the Cascine and through the city to-day 
(25th). We spent an evening very pleasantly at the Villa Vic- 
toria, where we met Mr. John M r, his son and daughter, 

and Miss T n, of New York, and on the following evening 

they took tea with us. During the week we had several thunder- 
storms, accompanied with hail, since which the weather has been 
uncomfortably cool. On Thursday night the wind blew a hurri- 
cane. I never heard anything like it before. We thought at one 
time our windows would be blown in, or the roof taken off. 
Thanks to the solid manner in which the houses are built here, 
neither mishap occurred. My letters received from home are by 
no means satisfactory, and it now seems probable that we shall 
have to return earlier than the time we had fixed upon. This will 
not only prevent the carrying out of our original programme, but 
wiU also make it necessary for us to hurry on much faster than 
we otherwise would have done. 

2&th, Sunday. — May, Sade, and Howie went to church. I did 
not feel very well, and remained in my room during most of 

the day. Our friends, Mr. B e and Mrs. U 1, and her 

daughter, of New York, arrived from Kome, and stopped at our 
hotel. 

21 th. — We went out this morning to pay ?ome bills, and after 
that went to Villa Victoria, where we dined. In the afternoon 
the ladies drove to the Cascine. May and Sade returned with them , 
and spent the evening. Howie and I drove to the hotel, as I had 
some letters to mail. 

2Sth. — We drove out in the morning. Owing to the warm 
weather and my indisposition, I did not visit any of the places of 
interest, much to my regret. I was particularly anxious to 
visit the galleries again, and also some of the studios, especially 
that of Mr. Powers, and to see Florence under more favor- 
able circumstances than while here last winter. Judging from 
what I have seen of it, 1 am forced to differ from travellers 
generally in my opinion of the place, and think it in many re- 
spects much overrated. In regard to climate, in January we found 

8* 



178 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THROUGH 

the weather as changeable and unpleasant as it is in New York in 
March. In May we found it extremely warm, and quite as 
oppressive as it is with us in July and August. 

The houses, with their thick walls and stone floors, are much 
cooler than ours, and one can always keep comfortable by remain- 
ing in doors. In the streets the heat from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. is 
intense ; from 7 to 9 p. m. is the only pleasant part of the day. 
Between these hours the inhabitants drive and walk out to 
the Cascine, their favorite place of resort — a well-shaded park with 
attractive drives and promenades. 

The city is beautifully situated in a valley surrounded by 
sloping hills, with the Arno, a muddy and unsightly stream run- 
ning through it. It lies on each side of the river, and is connected 
by numerous bridges — some of which are grand old structures, 
contrasting strangely with the slight and frail bridges we are 
accustomed to see in our country. When these and the streets 
running parallel with the river are lighted in the evening, the 
effect is really pleasing. Most of the streets in the new part of 
the city are wide and handsomely built up, and these are kept very 
clean. This part of the city is less Italian in its aspect than any 
other I have seen in Italy. The old part, however, partakes of 
all of the characteristics of its neighbors : narrow streets, piazzas, 
churches, and palaces. You see at a glance from the walls of the 
latter, that they were built as castles, as well as palaces. The 
ground floors have no windows on the street front, and the walls 
are composed of rough stones of great massiveness ; along these 
are iron rings for the bridles of horses, and above these are places 
for torchlights, which in olden times were kept lighted. The 
riazzo del Gran' Duca presents the most imposing aspect of any 
square in Florence. The old Palazzo Vecchio, with its towers 
and battlements, stands on one side. The covered way referred 
to during our flrst visit to Florence leads from this palace through 
the Palazzo degli Uffizi, passing over houses and bridges until it 
reaches the Palazzo Pitti, on the opposite side of the river. This 
was made, it is said, to facilitate the escape of the rulers, when 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 179 

they were beleaguered in their castles. Around this square in open 
halls and in the open space, are some of the masterpieces of art, 
among which are the two colossal statues of Plercules, by Bandi- 
nelli, David, by Michael Angelo — very unlike the stripling described 
in the Bible — a colossal statue of Neptune, drawn by four sea- 
horses, and surrounded by Tritons, around which is a fountain; 
the equestrian statue of Cosmo I., by John of Bologne. Be- 
tween these two statues is the spot pointed out where Savon- 
arola, the bold champion of religious truth, was burned. In the 
Loggia de Lanzi, an open hall, are a number of pieces, among 
which are Perseus, by B. Callini; the Rape of the Sabines, by 
John of Bologne ; Judith, by Donatillo, and a modern group in 
tinted marble, by a living Italian artist of great merit, whose 
name, as v/ell as his subject, I have forgotten. 

The guide-books all refer to Florence as the " City of Flowers" 
and the " Flower of Cities." Byron sang praises to it, probably 
for the reason that the morals of the place at the time of his 
residence here were in accordance with his tastes. Rogers, who 
had just emerged from the dense fogs of London, basked in the 
sunshine and joined in the chorus. It became fashionable, and 
everybody praised Florence. While it is prettily situated and has 
many attractive features, I must say that it fell far short of my 
expectations. I cannot conceive why it should be called the city 
of flowers, for at Rome or Naples one can see more flowers in one 
day than in a month at Florence. I think, as a rule, our opinions 
of what we see are, to a much greater extent than we are aware 
of, formed by what others have said. While there are many 
most estimable persons living in Florence, some of whom are 
among the very salt of the earth, I am led to believe, from what 
others told me, more than what I saw myself, that the morals of 
the place are decidedly bad ; and if the half that is said of King 
Victor Emmanuel and his profligate life is true, his residence here 
will not have a tendency to elevate the standard of morahty 
among his subjects. 

The present population of Florence is about one hundred and 



180 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

fifty thousand. It has rapidly improved and increased in popu- 
lation since becoming the capital of Italy, and I may add in the 
expense of living also. 

29^/^. — After attending to the settlement of some bills, and 
packing our trunks, we left at 6 o'clock p. m. for Bologna. Our 

kind friends the S. 'scame to the hotel and accompanied us to 

the depot. They have been unremitting in their attentions to us, 
and our recollections of their kindness will be among the most 
pleasant reminiscences of our European tour. The road over 
which we passed crosses the Apennines, and nothing can be more 
beautiful than the snatches we get of the scenery along the route. 
The acclivity is steep and the ascent slow. In less than two 
hours we passed through upward of forty tunnels, a few of which 
are of considerable length. The road follows a narrow and deep 
ravine, and the tunnels are mostly through spurs of the mountains 
which slope down into it. There are numerous viaducts, some of 
which are of great height, and supported by tiers of arches one 
above another. Nothing can be more interesting than the scenery 
that bursts upon us as we emerge from these tunnels. The road 
is very crooked, and at one part in particular we had five views 
of one viaduct as we came out of as many tunnels, and each time 
the distance between it and us seemed only to have increased by 
our altitude. We reached Bologna at 11 p. m., and stopped at the 
Plotel Brun, a house much abused by many persons, but in every 
respect an excellent and well-conducted hotel, where we had many 
substantial comforts. Among the first things the traveller observes 
here are the covered porticoes or arcades, which afford a conven- 
ient shelter to the streets from an Italian sun. 

dOth. — This is a gala day, and the whole population seems to 
be in the streets. We were tired, and the day intensely warm, 
so we remained in until after dinner. We then drove beyond the 
walls of the city, and ascended a high eminence, from which we 
had a magnificent view of the city and country, extending over 
the plains toward the Adriatic as far as the eye could reach. On 
our return, we passed over the principal drive and promenade just 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 181 

outside of the walls, which was thronged with equipages, eques- 
trians, and pedestrians of all classes, presenting a lively and pleas- 
ing scene. We had intended to visit the Campo Santo, or 
burying-ground, said to be the best in Italy, but it was closed. 

dlst. — After breakfast we visited first the Academia delle Belle 
Arte, and went through the picture-gallery, in which are some 
good paintings, mostly of the Bologna school, and taken from 
suppressed churches and convents. Among the best are the Cru- 
cifixion, by Guido: a very large painting, about ten by twenty 
feet, divided into three unequal compartments, the lower one con- 
taining a view of the city of Bologna, protected by two angels, 
each bearing in their hands a white lily ; the middle one, a char- 
acteristic representation of the five patron saints of Bologna, and 
the upper, the lifeless body of our Savior, with his mother stand- 
ing near, her eyes raised to heaven, as if imploring help to sus- 
tain her in her great sorrow, and two angels weeping over her. 
Martyrdom of St. Agnes, by Domenichino; "St. Cecelia," by 
Raphael : the idea of the three-fold music, the profane, the 
sacred, and the music of heaven, is exquisitely conveyed in this 
picture ; The Massacre of the Innocents, by Guido. We next 
visited the Church of St. Stefano, being seven small churches or 
chapels joined by corridors into one, with nothing attractive or 
interesting, except a copy of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, 
which is built in one of the chapels, and also a copy of Pilate's 
Court (so said) in another. We then went to St. Domenico, 
named after the founder of that order, and also of the inquisition. 
Tablets to Guido and his pupil, Elizabeth Sivani, who was poi- 
soned at the age of twenty-six, and buried with Guido here, are 
in one of the chapels- The tribunal of the Saint Uffizi, or holy 
office of the inquisition, here held its sessions. The principal 
square in Bologna is the Piazzo de San Petronio. The old 
Podesteria (the seat of government), the CoUegio die Mercante, 
the Cathedral, all built in the noble and severe style of the middle 
ages, surround this square. Under the Podesteria are a range 
of wide porticoes which are used as a market. In the Piazzo 



182 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

is a colossal statue of Neptune, surrounded by a fountainy the 
work of John of Bologne. We visited the Palazzo Bacciochi, 
formerly the seat of the Princess Eliza Bacciochi, Napoleon's (I.) 
sister, to sec the grand stairway. Strangers are not admitted 
into the palace, but the stairway repaid us for the ride. After 
examining and admiring it, we drove to the old university, found- 
ed, it is said, by Theodosius II., and revived by Charlemagne. 
This is the oldest university in Italy, excepting the one at Salerno. 
It was here that galvanism was discovered in 1701, by Galvani. 
At one period it was celebrated for its female professors, some 
of whom attained to a high degree of eminence. Mezzofanti 
was at one time a professor here. It contains the tombs of its 
former professors, and around the walls are the arms of the va- 
rious countries from which its students come. The Maganri, or 
city library, is in this building. The lecture- room is handsomely 
ornamented with carvings and wood statues of its former profes- 
sors. It was in this room that the first dissection of a human 
body was made, about 1440, by Modeni. The chapel on the 
ground floor is an interesting part of the edifice. In 1714 the 
university was revived, and afterward was transferred to the new 
and more commodious buildings. It numbers now upward of 
six hundred students, and more than forty professors, in five facul- 
ties, one being medicine, which is particulai'ly fostered. In 1216 
this university had ten thousand students. In it Irnerius taught 
jurisprudence with great abiUty and reputation. We had not 
time to visit the new buildings, and drove to St. Petronio, the 
largest church in the city. It is four hundred feet long by two 
hundred wide. The middle vault is one hundred and forty-five 
feet in height. It has five aisles. Although the building of it 
commenced in 1390, it is yet unfinished. In this church Charles 
V. was crowned by Clement VII. in 1530. We then went to 
St. Marteno, to see Perugino's Assumption, a painting of great 
merit, but so faded as to give no pleasure to the beholder. 
Bologna has its two leaning towers, but they will not compare 
favorably with that of Pisa. " One half suspects them," says Mr. 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 183 

Hillard, "to have been bent over to attract attention." The 
present population is about one hundred thousand. The city is 
situated at the foot of the Apennines, and in its general appearance 
does not differ much from other old Italian towns. It is of very 
ancient origin, having been founded by the Etruscans, vv^ho called 
it Felsina. It was conquered by the Romans one hundred and 
ninety years B. C. Charlemagne made it a free city, and it 
became rich and powerful by its commerce. Many interesting 
historical events are associated with it. The celebrated Council 
of Trent assembled here. In 1796 it was incorporated by France 
into the Cisalpine Republic. In 1815 it was attached to the 
States of the Church, and in 1859 to the kingdom of Italy. The 
two Caracci, Domenichino, Guido Reni, and many other cele- 
brated painters, were born here. Of late years Bologna has been 
as much celebrated for its sausages as it formerly was for its learn- 
ing, and when eaten here they are certainly worthy of the reputa- 
tion they have won. 

We here made the acquaintance of Mrs. B. and her two 
daughters, from New York, v/hom we had seen before at the 
Hotel Univers in Florence. They were travelling partly for 
the health of one of the young ladies, who seemed very deli- 
cate. We found them to be exceedingly pleasant and affable, and 
their criticisms on the pictures in the gallery where we met them 
showed that they possessed highly cultivated tastes. 

We had an early dinner, and left at 4:30 p. m. for Parma. 
We passed Modena, the ancient Mutina, the capital of the former 
little absolute Duchy of Modena. It was here that Mark Antony 
was defeated B. C. 43, by the Consuls Hirtius and Pansa, both 
of whom were killed. Its population at the present time is about 
sixty thousand. We reached Parma at 6 p. m., and stopped at 
the Hotel Troce Bianca, where we were as comfortable as we 
could expect to be, with horses, chickens, and noisy Italians filling 
the court below us. The proprietor was pleasant and obliging, 
and exerted himself to make us comfortable. He furnished us 



184 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

with a carriage, and we enjoyed a drive through some of the 
principal streets, and around the boulevards, from which we had 
a good view of the city and its surroundings, and returned in 
time for tea. 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 185 



JUNE. 

1st. — After breakfast we devoted some hours to the churches, 
which, as a general thing, are the most attractive features 
the old Italian towns. S. Giovanni Evangelista was the re- 
cipient of our first attentions. It belongs to the Benedictine 
convent, and was built in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 
The cupola was frescoed by Correggio when he was only twenty- 
six years old. The subject is St. John in a vision, in which he 
sees Christ on his throne, with the Apostles around him. The 
frescoes are so much faded as to make it difficult to distinguish 
the figures. We then visited the Duomo or Cathedral, which was 
built in the twelfth century. It is a very large church with frescoes 
by Correggio, the subject being " the Assumption." The Virgin 
is surrounded by a crowd of angels and saints, but like the last 
mentioned, is too much defaced by the hand of time to be 
appreciated. It was considered one of his best productions, 
and is remarkable for its chiaroscuro and its foreshorten- 
ing. The walls and ceilings are covered with frescoes and 
paintings. We saw the mausoleum of Petrarch the poet, who 
was at one time Archdeacon of the church. Near the Duomo 
stands the baptistery, an octagonal edifice of six stories, built in 
1196. We saw in it some old and curious pictures and bas- 
reliefs, which are much faded and soiled. The building is 
quaint and interesting, for the singularity of its architecture. 
After finishing the baptistery we determined for a while to 
turn from the inanimate to the animate, and ordered the coach- 
man to drive to the ox market, which is held here annually, 
and what we saw there was quite as interesting to me as 
some of the old churches and dingy pictures. The number of 
oxen on exhibition was large ; many of them were magnificent 
specimens of strength and beauty combined. They were yoked, 



186 JOUENAL OF A TOUR TBffiOUGH 

and fantastically decorated, the owners driving them around and 
trying to find purchasers. I noticed that they were all either 
white or yellow. After looking at this sight for some time, we 
drove through the crowds of market people and others, to the 
cocoon market, which was filled with country people, surrounded 
by baskets of cocoons of white, orange, and yellow. We pur- 
chased a few as specimens. This is one of the principal prod- 
ucts of the surrounding country. Having thus summarily 
disposed of nature's productions, we returned to those of art, and 
a short drive brought us to the Academy of Arts, in which there 
is a museum of antiquities, and also a library and picture gallery. 
The latter contains some good paintings, among which are two 
of Correggio's, said to be his master-pieces, viz., the Madonna 
della Scodelia, and II Giorno, or the day, being the Virgin and 
Child, along with St. Jerome, Magdalene, and two angels. I could 
not, however, appreciate their beauty. None of the faces are good, 
while that of the child seemed really unnatural. The fault must 
be with me and not the pictures, as they have a world-wide repu- 
tation ; and yet real beauty is a thing which commends itself to 
every one. The Descent from the Cross, by the same artist, 
struck me as being a much better picture. We saw many other 
paintings, among which were Guido Eene's Head of Christ, 
Titian's Job, some of Van Dyke's, and other artists of distinction. 
Among the statuary was Canova's Maria Louisa (who, after the 
banishment of Napoleon I. to St. Helena, was made Duchess of 
Parma in 1815, and resided here until her death, which occurred 
in 1847). There were statues of Marie Therese and Don Phil- 
lippe. We walked through the Library, which is tastefully and 
conveniently arranged. It was founded in 1770, and at the pres- 
ent time contains one hundred thousand volumes, four thousand 
manuscripts, and numerous other things of interest. At the end 
of the last room is a fresco by Correggio, which was transferred 
from one of the churches, and is said to possess great merit. Our 
next visit was to the Camera de San Piolo, two rooms which 
belonged to the Convent of St. Paul, and which were used as the 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 187 

parlors of the abbess. These are remarkable for their frescoes, 
by Correggio, which v/ere executed under orders of the abbess in 
1519. The ceilings are decorated with emblems of the Chase, of 
Diana, Cupids, Adonis, the Graces, etc., which seem strange 
subjects for a convent, and are an index of the doubtful taste and 
questionable morals of the inmates. Mr. Hillard gives us some 
happy observations on the children here represented by Correg- 
gio : " No painter has caught the frolicsome grace of childhood 
more completely than Correggio. Plis children are not cherubs 
that have lost their way, in whose looks we trace a softened re- 
membrance of their celestial home, but they are the most engag- 
ing creatures that ever romped a nursery floor, with dimpled 
cheeks and roguish eyes, that seem equally loving and mis- 
chievous." We went to the Madonna della Steccata, said to be 
the most attractive church in Parma, but it did not appear so to 
me, and there was nothing about it worthy of remark. The 
present population of Parma is about forty-six thousand. Its 
origin dates back two hundred years B. C, at which period it 
was a Roman colony. The streets are wider than is usual in old 
Italian cities. The houses are large, but not handsome, and the 
general appearance of the city is unattractive. Having "done" 
Parma, we left at about six o'clock p. M., and changed cars at, 
Piacenza, a town with thirty-one thousand inhabitants. We 
passed Lodi, svith a population of twenty thousand, now famous 
for the great battle fought there, *and won by Napoleon I» A 
short ride further brought us to Milan at 8:30 p. m., and 
we were soon domiciled at the " Cavour," a very good hotel. 
The country over which the road passes is in a high state of cul- 
tivation. We saw miles of the renowned artificial meadows, wa- 
tered by numerous canals. Some of these were rice-fields and 
others used for grazing. The Parma cheese, celebrated all over 
the Continent, is made in this place. 

2d, Sitndaij. — We slept until quite late in the day, and conse- 
quently did notf go to church. It was the anniversary of the 
adoption of the Constitution, and the whole of the population 



188 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

were in the streets, in the balconies, or at the windows. The 
tramp of infantry, the rumbling of artillery, and the clattering 
of cavalry, enlivened by martial music, were everywhere heard. 
The houses were mostly decorated with flags. Notwithstanding 
the day was intensely hot, and the sun almost unbearable, the 
crowds moved on and seemed to enjoy it. This was Sunday in 
Milan. May and Sade went to the English Church in the after- 
noon. Howie being very unwell, I remained with him. 

3d. — In consequence of the extreme heat, we remained within 
doors until after dinner. We then took a drive to the Cathedral, 
and passed through it to get a general view, intending to give it a 
more thorough inspection at some future time. We drove next to 
the Boulevard, a long avenue with double rows of trees on each side, 
just outside of the city. It was crowded with carriages and eques- 
trians, moving up and down, frequently stopping to allow friends 
an opportunity to exchange compliments. Many of the equipages 
were very handsome, far excelling those that are seen on the 
Cascine at Florence, and the Boulevard presented a gay and pleas- 
ing appearance. Some of the equestrians running their horses 
at full speed seemed to our American eyes to be in bad taste, but 
it added to the excitement. 

• 4th. — The morning was somewhat cooler, and we started out 
soon after breakfast for a hard day's work, going first to the 
Brera, or the Palace of Science and Art (formerly the Jesuits' 
College). It comprises the Institute of Science, Letters and Art, 
founded in 1802, the Academy of Fine Arts, the Public Library, 
of two hundred thousand volumes, besides numerous manuscripts, 
and an Observatory, founded in 1769. We went through the 
picture gallery, comprising some fifteen or sixteen rooms, in which 
nearly all of the artists of Italy are represented. I will mention a 
few of the pictures which pleased us most : Christ and the Woman 
of Samaria at the Well, by Annabale Caracci ; Adoration of the 
Magi, L, Caracci ; St. Mark Preaching at Alexandria ; Gentile, 
Bellini ; Christ in the House of Simon, by 'Paul Veronese ; 
Abraham Dismissing Hagar, by Guircino ,• Marriage of the 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 189 

Virgin, Raphael ; Head of Christ, an old fresco, Leonardo 
da Yinci ; St. Peter and St. Paul, Guido ; Presentation of 
Moses to Pharaoh's Daughter ; Christ Bearing the Cross, Crespi ; 
Martjrdom of St. Catharine, Ferrari; Souls in Purgatory, Sal- 
vator Rosa; Departure of the Jews for the Promised Land, 
Beneditto ; Martyrdom of St. Vital ; Virgin and Child, Domeni- 
chino ; Crucifixion, Garofulo ; and Christ at Emaus, Bonifacio. 
After passing through several rooms of statuary, most of which 
was ordinary, we entered a suite of four rooms containing modern 
paintings. Some of these were good pictures. Two were par- 
ticularly striking ; these were the Good Samaritan and the 
Death of Abel. After finishing our view here, we walked through 
the immense rooms of the Library, which are tastefully and con- 
veniently fitted up. We afterward drove to the Duomo, or Ca- 
thedral, said by many to be the most magnificent church in Italy. 
This, however, owing to the great difference in styles of architec- 
ture and finish, is a difficult matter to decide, particularly where 
there are so many cathedrals. The church is in the florid 
Gothic style, with a perfect forest of spires, and an almost count- 
less number of statues in niches and on the roof. The spires 
number one hundred, and the statues, large and small, seven thou- 
sand. It was begun in 1386, and is not yet finished. It is of white 
marble, four hundred and fifty feet in length, two hundred 
and twenty-six in width, and the height of the aisles is ninety-two 
feet, the height of the nave one hundred and twenty-three, about 
one hundred and fifty to the vaulting, the height of cupola one 
hundred and ninety-seven, or three hundred and sixty to the top 
of the spire. On each side of tne middle door are two granite 
columns in one block, thirty-five feet high, on which are statues of 
St. Carlo Borromeo. The stained windows, representing scriptural 
scenes, are very beautiful. The interior is vast and imposing, 
being a clear space from end to end, only interrupted by great, 
clustered pillars which support the vaults. There are fifty-two 
of these, sixty-nine feet high, twenty feet round the base, all cov- 
ered with niches, figures, foliage, tracery, etc. These divide the 



190 JOUKNAL OF A TOUR THHOUGH 

body into two aisles on each side of the nave and one on each 
side of the transepts. The floors are of checkered marble. It 
would be impossible to write a full description of this magnificent 
edifice, or one that would convey an idea of its grandeur. Can 
a man count the stars, or describe the colors of the iris ? One 
is utterly bewildered as he ■\'\tilks through this vast amount of 
carving in marble of every conceivable kind, the noble pillars, the 
countless statues, bas-reliefs, bronzes, etc. There is a chapel 
under the church where services are held in the winter, when it is 
too cold in the main building. Adjoining this is a still smaller 
chapel, containing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo,its archbishop, 
who figured so worthily during the plague at Milan. He died in 
1584, and his remains are enclosed in a rich gold and silver 
shrine, dressed in his pontifical robes, sparkling with diamonds 
and emeralds, his head resting on a gilded cushion, with a jewelled 
crown suspended just above it. The walls and ceilings of the 
chapel are covered with solid silver, representing scenes in his 
life. This, with the jewels and shrine, are estimated to be worth 
one million two hundred thousand dollars. The admission fee is 
five francs. San Carlo was nephew to Pius IV., and was canon- 
ized by his successor, which it is said cost his family so large a 
sum that they declined to ask a similar honor for his cousin. Car- 
dinal Fred. Borromeo, the one celebrated by Manzoni in / Prom- 
em Spo^. San Carlo was a most estimable man, and his memory 
is held in reverence by the people. We went to the Palazzo 
Rcale, and passel through its numerous large and elegant apart- 
ments, among which is the chamber occupied by Napoleon I., 
and since by the "nephew of my uncle." It is now the King's 
chamber. The floors are principally of inlaid wood; some of 
Ihem are beautiful. The unfortunate Maximilian, the flower of 
the House of Hapsburg, once occupied this palace. We saw in 
it some modern pictures of battle scenes in the war of 1859, and 
also some very old tapestries. We went to the Ambrosean 
Library, where we saw a small collection of paintings, among 
them the Crucifixion, by Guido ; Holy Family, by Bordone ; 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 191 

and some ten or twelve pictures by Titian ; also, two marble 
vestals, by Canova, and a beautiful gilt bronze Aurora. We 
then drove to the Theatre della Scala, one of the largest in Italy, 
but owing to the dim light, we could see but little of its inte- 
rior arrangements. It has six tiers, four of which are filled with 
boxes, and it can accommodate four thousand persons. 

, 6th. — After breakfast I accompanied May and Sade to do some 
shopping, and went to the bankers for some money, after which 
we all drove to the Piazza d'Arme, a parade ground, about one 
tnousand feet square, surrounded by trees. On one side of it are 
barracks for troops ; on another side is the arena, an amphitheatre 
built by the French, in 1805-6. It is of oval shape, three hun- 
dred and fifty by one hundred and seventy feet — has ten rows of 
seats rising one above another, and will accommodate thirty 
thousand persons. It was used for races, shows, &c. It is so 
arranged that the arena can be flooded with water from a canal 
which passes through it, and used for aquatic sports. Near this 
is Foro Bonaparte, a public walk laid out by Napoleon I., which 
is refreshingly shaded. We drove to the Arco della Pace, or arch 
of peace, which is said to be one of the grandest triumphal arches 
in Europe. It was begun in 1807, but was not finished until 
1837, and was destined to record the triumphs of Napoleon I., but 
after his fall it was finished by the Austrians and recorded only 
his reverses. It is seventy-two feet wide, seventy-four feet high, 
and forty-two feet thick ; the centre arch is twenty-four feet wide 
by forty-three feet high ; the two smaller ones are eleven wide and 
twenty-eight high; fluted Corinthian pillars face each of the prin- 
cipal sides, and it is covered with reliefs and statues. On the top 
are two bronze Victories, thirteen feet high, and in tlie middle a 
colossal bronze statue representing Peace, in a car drawn by six 
horses ; the arch, of white marble, is imposing and beautiful. 
Napoleon III. and Victor Emmanuel passed through this arch on 
their entry into the city after the battle of Magenta. We went 
to the church of St. Maria della Grazia, attached to the old Do- 
minican convent, now a barrack, which was built in 1463-93. 



192 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

The church has no particular interest or attraction, but in the 
refectory of the convent is the famous picture Cenacolo or the 
Last Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci, painted between 1493 and 
1500. It was not painted in fresco, but in oils upon a dry wall. 
It is much defaced, but some of the faces are still perfect — that of 
Thomas is worse than Judas', There are many good copies of 
this painting, some of which we had seen. We then drove to 
Sant' Ambrogio, built in the ninth century on the site of an old 
church founded by St. Ambrose in 387. It is a curious looking 
edifice, built of brick, and defies description. We saw in it some 
very old mosaics of gold and stones ; the Ambrosian service-book, 
of vellum, beautifully illuminated with musical notes, which is 
very ancient and is in six folio volumes ; and a number of paint- 
ings in the side altars, among them St. Ambrose on his death-bed, 
by Lanceari. We directed our coachman to drive us to St. Maria 
della Passione, and on our way there we passed through a num- 
ber of streets — some were well built up ; we also, passed by the 
Ospedale Maggiore or Great Hospital, founded in 1457 by Duke 
F. Sforza, and liberally endowed. It is four hundred feet long 
by one hundred and fifty wide, and two and three stories high — 
is made up of two square masses, each containing four courts, 
which are ended by one grand court two hundred and forty-three 
feet by two hundred and twenty, consisting of two tiers of elegant 
light arches, ornamented with plasters, reliefs, etc. It has rooms 
for thirteen hundred patients. On reaching Santa Maria della 
Passione, much to our regret we found it closed. It is spoken of 
as a large church, three hundred and twenty feet long, with a 
triple portal and three naves, and a dome one hundred and six 
feet high. It contains noticeable tombs and other works of art. 
We returned from here to our hotel. After dinner we drove over 
the boulevards which encircle the entire city, and were once the 
old city walls. The boulevards are about two hundred feet wide, 
with a double row of trees on each side. We passed all the 
gates of the city, and had good views of many of the streets lead- 
ing from the gates. We likewise had a number of views of the 



GREAT BHITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 193 

cathedral during our drive, all different, of course, and some 
exceedingly advantageous. The railway station is just outside of 
the boulevard, and is a remarkably good specimen of this kind of 
building, with well laid-out grounds in front of it. Our rooms at 
the hotel faced the public gardens, which are opened to pedes- 
trians only, and are laid out in attractive shaded walks, grass-plats, 
and flower-beds. Here in the afternoons may be seen hundreds 
of children of all ranks and ages, playing about, and gayly-dressed 
persons walking around or sealed on the benches. Opposite the 
hotel, inside of the grounds, is a cafe, which is a fashionable 
place of resort during the summer afternoons. Just in front of 
the hotel is a bronze statue of Cavour on a granite base, near the 
bottom of which is another bronze statue of a female reprCvSenting 
Italy, holding a pen in her hand, with which she has just finished 
inscribing on the granite the name " Cavour." The design is 
simple but very touching. 

Milan has a population of nearly one hundred and ninety thousand, 
and is one of the wealthiest cities in Northern Italy. It stands at 
the junction of several roads and railways, in the wide, fertile, and 
well-irrigated plains of Lombardy, between the Olona and Lambra, 
which empty into the Po, and is connected with these rivers by 
canals. Its origin dates very far back. It was occupied by the 
Consuls M. Marcellus and C. Scipio, 221 years B, C. In the 
fourth century it ranked the sixth city in the Roman empire. It 
was the capital of a republic in the sixth century, and afterward 
as a duchy, in the families of Sforza and Visconti. It was held 
by Spain, after the battle of Pavia, until 1714, when it was ceded 
to Austria. In 1796 it was taken by the French, and again, after 
the battle of Marengo, in 1800. From 1805 to 1814 it was the 
capital of the Kingdom of Italy, jifter which it was restored to 
Austria. Two risings occurred — one in 1821 and the other in 
1848. In the latter case, the Austrians were driven out, after 
four days' fighting. They returned, however, after the defeat of 
Charles Albert, in 1849. It was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy 
in 1859, after the French and Italians had defeated the Austrians 

9 



194 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

at Magenta and Solferino. The city is remarkable for its clean- 
liness. The citizens are enterprising and prosperous, and many of 
them wealthy. Many resident families have incomes of two hun- 
dred thousand dollars, and families with incomes of twenty-five 
thousand dollars are reckoned by hundreds. 

Qth. — Having completed our arrangements for a tour of the 
Italian lakes, we left at 6 o'clock a.m. The morning was 
pleasant, and we enjoyed the cool and refreshing breeze. A ride 
of two hours on the railway brought us to the ancient town of 
Como, with a population of twenty-four thousand, situated at the 
head of Lago di Como. It was first settled by a Greek colony, and 
at one time was a place of considerable importance. It now has 
quite a trade in silks, woollens, cotton-yarn, and soap. In it are a 
cathedral, town-hall, and theatre, neither of which, however, we had 
an opportunity of seeing, as we had to go directly to the steamer, 
which was awaiting the arrival of the train by which we came. 
The younger Pliny was born in Como. A sail of an hour and a 
half up this world-renowned lake brought us to Cadenabbia, a 
lovely spot, just below the junction of the two arms of the lake, 
where we stopped, and were well accommodated at the Hotel 
Belle Vue. The character of the lake and its surroundings 
differed very much from my preconceived ideas of them. I 
expected to see a broad and clear body of water, with gently 
sloping hills, covered with vineyards, orange and lemon groves, 
surrounding beautiful villas, running down to its waters. But 
the reverse met my eyes. It is in many places narrow 
and crooked, resembling a river more than a lake. The 
mountains by which it is surrounded (except at the southern ex- 
tremity), which run down from the Alps, are wild and grand in 
the extreme, and extend to its very brink, with numerous narrow 
strips of table-land, on which little towns are built ; these, in con- 
sequence of their perpendicular surroundings, are only approach- 
able by water. In and near most of these towns are numerous 
villas, belonging to gentlemen who spend a part of their summers 
here. The waters of the lake are green, and so clear that every 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 195 

object above them is truthfully reflected. ■^The clouds, the blue 
sky, the green foliage, and rugged hills, all seem like another 
little world beneath its depths. After resting a while, we visited 
the Villa Carlotta, the grounds of which adjoin those of our 
hotel. We saw in the villa some good statuary by Canova, and 
a small collection of paintings, among which was Virgil reciting 
one of his poems before the Emperor Augustus and his wife and 
suite — a large and exceedingly good picture. The attraction of 
the place, however, is the grounds, which are tastefully laid out 
and kept in excellent order. We returned to the hotel, and after 
lunch were rowed across the lake to Bellaggio, a small town situ- 
ated at the foot of a promontory which divides the two arms of 
the lake. We walked up to the Villa 3erbelloni, situated on the 
summit of the promontory ; the afternoon was intensely warm, 
and we were much fatigued by the ascent, although we went 
leisurely and stopped frequently to rest. Meanwhile we ate 
some delicious cherries, under the shade of the tree on which 
they grew. The villa is an old and common-looking building, 
but the grounds, with their shaded walks, beautiful grottoes, and 
diversified shrubbery, are exquisitely charming. The magnificent 
view from the top of the promontory, embracing both arms of 
the lake, with numerous towns and villas dotting their shores, 
fully repaid us for our fatiguing walk. It ia difficult to con- 
ceive of a prospect more beautiful and at the same time more 
savagely wild than this. After walking around the grounds, we 
returned to our boat, and were rowed past the Villa Melzi, just 
below the town, but as Howie's ankle was somewhat painful, 
we did not land, but returned to the hotel. 

1th. — We had intended to leave this morning, but I was not 
v/ell enough to travel. I felt better in the afternoon, and took a 
long walk down the road through the principal street running 
along the margin of the lake. The views of the mountains on 
the opposite side are particularly good. During the evening we 
were visited by a regular Alpine thunderstorm, which was fear- 
fully grand. I think I should have enjoyed it more if there 



196 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THEOUGH 

had been a lightning-rod on that end of the house which we 
occupied. 

Sth. — The rain continued during the night and early part of the 
next day. At half-past two o'clock it was clear, and we embarked 
on the steamer for Menaggio, a small town situated a few miles 
above Cadenabbia. A very short run brought us there. The dil- 
igence was crowded ; so we procured a carriage to take us to Por- 
lezza at the upper end of Lago du Lugano ; the drive occupied two 
hours and a half, and was a very pleasant one. The road lead- 
ing from Menaggio winds around the mountain in a serpentine 
ascent for some distance, then it descends in like manner into 
a verdant little valley about half a mile wide, with mountains 
abruptly running up to a great height on each side. Tiiere are 
several small towns very picturesquely situated on the edges of the 
valley ; and occasionally a house could be seen far up on the steep 
sides of the mountains, apparently inaccessible, and looking more 
jfit for an eagle's eyry than the habitation of man. The occu- 
pants must lead a lonely life, and have ample time to reflect 
upon the follies of their neighbors below, as well as to con- 
template the beauty, grandeur, and glory of nature around them. 
But the Italian peasantry are not much given to moralizing, and 
their .thoughts are in all probability oftener turned toward their 
little sacks of charcoal made from the wood which grows around 
their dwellings, and which they exchange with the villagers 
below for the necessaries of life. The road, like all Italian roads, 
is fine, with shade trees on each side, adding to its beauty and 
protecting the traveller from the rays of the sun. We passed a 
very small lake called Piano, and a short distance beyond drove 
through quite a large village, the name of which I do not recol- 
lect. Arriving at Porlezza, we embarked on a small steamer for 
Luciano, situated about half the distance down the lake of the 
same name, the whole length being about twenty miles. An 
hour's sail brought us to the wharf, and we were soon com- 
fortably domiciled in the Hotel du Pare, which is pleasantly sit- 
uated and well conducted. 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 197 

Lngano is a lovely little lake. It lies mostly in Swiss terri- 
tory, as a point of Switzerland runs down here into Italy. 
The scenery is wild, the mountains being very high and run- 
ning down abruptly to the water's edge; but they are less deso- 
late looking than those around Como, as most of them are 
covered with woods. Owing to their abruptness there are but 
few places along the borders of the lake where there is space 
enough for towns, or even single houses, and with a few excep- 
tions the shores remain ^s the Creator made them. There is 
a gap in the mountains at Lugano where the hills are low, and 
the country around the town is comparatively level. The situa- 
tion is one of much beauty. The town is described by a writer 
as leaning on the bosom of the beautiful ceresio (bay), and rest- 
ing there in charming abandon, quite Italian in its physiognomy. 
In the afternoon we took a stroll up the road running along the 
shore of the lake and leading to Como. We passed a little 
temple standing on the side of the road under which was a bust of 
Washington. Some mile and a half beyond this we reached a 
promontory from wliich we had a good view of the lake, and its 
surroundings, including the town. We also saw the stone bridge 
crossing the lake, built during 1 844-47. The drive is eight hundred 
metres long and eight wide : on both shores are arches to enable 
the steamers and boats to pass. It is now used for carriages, but 
is destined to serve as a viaduct of the railway now in course of 
construction. The afternoon was refreshingly cool, and we all 
enjoyed the walk. Sade gathered a bouquet of wild flowers, 
some of which were new to us. We stopped at a manufactory 
on the road, and witnessed the process of dressing the raw 
cocoons, and reeling off the silk thread, which was both curious 
and ingenious, and at the same time very cruel, as the cocoons 
with the live worms in them were put into boiling water, where 
they remained until the worms were dead. It was distressing to 
see the cocoons moved about by the agonies of the poor creatures 
which had sealed themselves up in them. 

^th Sunday. — We attended the Episcopal Church in the 



198 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THKOUGH 

morning, and he^rd a good sermon from John iii. 8. It was 
delivered in seventeen minutes. "We went again in the afternoon 
and heard another good sermon from Ephesians iv. 3. 

1 dth. ^- We left at half- past nine o'clock for Lago de Maggiore, 
taking a carriage to Luino, situated near the upper end of the 
lake, and we were two hours in driving over. The scenery was 
less interesting than that between Menaggio and Porlezza. After 
emerging from this little corner of Switzerland into Italy again 
our baggage was examined {i. e., the outside of our trunks were 
looked at) at the Dogana, or Custom-house, and we went forward 
to Luino, which we reached some hour or more before the arrival 
of the steamer. "We found here some excellent cherries, and while 
the family were eating them I took a stroll through the town. 
The narrow and filthy streets did not present sufficient attraction 
to induce me to extend my ramble. I soon returned to the inn, 
and was not sorry to see the smoke of the steamer curling up 
above a point of the lake. In a few minutes she arrived, and 
we were soon on board and under way. "We landed at a num- 
ber of towns, some of which were quite large and apparently 
prosperous, and most of them pleasantly situated on the shores 
of the lake. We left the boat at Bavano, opposite the islands, 
and found good accommodations at the new and well-conducted 
Hotel Bellevue. After dinner we procured a boat and were rowed 
across to the islands. We first approached Isola Pescatore (Fisher- 
men's Island), which has a population of about two hundred and 
fifty souls, mostly fishermen and their families ; in shape it 
resembles a steamboat, and at a distance might almost be taken 
for one. We passed around it, and then steered for Isola Madre, 
on which is an unfinished palace ; this island is luxuriant in 
foliage of native and exotic trees and plants, and is beautifully 
terraced at the lower end. We were next rowed to Isola Bella, 
where we expected to land, and go through the palace and 
grounds ; but arrived too late, and had to content ourselves with 
rowing around it. It is thus described by a lady who has visited 
t : "A stately and splendid palace is here surrounded by gardens, 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE GONTINENT. 199 

laid out in the old French style, which, however, loses its stiffness 
and formality in this land of luxuriant, scythe-defying vegetation. 
We were shown the largest state-room of the palace, that which 
Napoleon had occupied the night before the battle of Marengo. 
The palace is richly decorated with valuable paintings and statues, 
its floors are inlaid with costly mosaics, and its walls adorned 
with fresco paintings. Shady alleys of orange and citron-trees, 
laden with delicious fruit, caused us to feel that we were indeed 
in Italy. In cool grottoes, sheltered from the noon-tide heat, 
clear streams gushed forth from the rocks, bathing with their 
limpid waters the various creeping plants which clothed the hard 
stone in a rich, soft, green garment of luxuriant loveliness. Pass- 
ing through the flower-garden we entered a portion of the ad- 
joining park, where nature has been allowed to develop all her 
beauty, unchecked by the hand of man. The northern oak and 
elm mingle with the olive and the laurel, which almost vie with 
the former in the height and vigor of their growth. One laurel- 
tree, especially, rears its head aloft, with an air of prouder 
dignity than the rest, as though it were conscious that in early 
youth it had been set apart to no ordinary lot. Beneath the shade 
of this tree had Napoleon rested while meditating the battle of 
Marengo, and his hand following the guidance of his thoughts, 
had cut the word ^^bataglia^^ in the soft bark of the tree, on 
which it now remains as indelibly impressed as the deed itself has 
been in the minds of the people. These last two islands belong 
to the Borromio family. The part of the latter not occupied by 
the building rises in a pyramid of ten terraces of masonry, on and 
around which are statues and plants and flowers of great variety. 
A large quantity of oranges, lemons, and other tropical fruits are 
grown here, but have to be protected in winter. It is stated that 
thirty thousand oranges and lemons have been sent in one year 
from this island to England alone. Thes.e islands are ornaments 
that become the lake, they seem to float tranquilly upon the 
bosom of the clear and beautiful water. The bright Italian sky 
above, and the soft south wind blowing over their groves of 



200 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

orange and citron, and gardens of tropical plants and flowers, 
filling the atmosphere with exquisite perfumes, make one almost 
imagine that he is beholding the " The Enchanted Isle" so beauti- 
fully described in the following lines : 

There's a magical isle in the river of Time 

Where softest of echoes are straying, 
And the air is as sweet as a musical chime, 
Or the exquisite breath of a tropical clime, 

When June with, its roses is staying. 

'Tis there memory dwells with his pale golden hue, 

And music for ever is flowing, c 

While the low murmured tones that came tremblingly through. 
Sadly trouble the heart — and yet soften it too — 

As south winds o'er waters when blowing. 

There are shadowy halls in the feiry-lifce isle, 

Where pictures of beauty are gleaming ; 
Yet the light of their eyes and the sweet sunny smile 
Only flash round the heart with a 'wildering wile, 

And leave us to know 'tis but dreaming. 

And the name of that isle is the beautiful Past, 

And we bury our treasures all there ; 
There are beings of beauty too lovely to last. 
There are bosoms of snow, with the dust o'er them casi^ 

There are tresses and ringlets of hair. 

There are fragments of song only memory sings. 

And the words of a dear mother's prayer, 
There's a harp long unswept and a lute without strings, 
There are flowers, all withered, and letters, and rings. 

Hallowed tokens that love used to wear. 

In the stillness of night hands are beckoning us there, 

And with joy that is almost a pain 
We delight to turn back, and in wandering there, 
Through the shadowy halls of the island so fair, 

We behold our lost treasures again. 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 201 

Oh ! this beautiful isle, with its phantom-like shore, 

Is a vista unfadingly bright, 
And the river of time, in its turbulent flow, 
Is oft soothed by the voices we heard long ago, 

When the years were a dream of delight. 

In after days I am sure that our thoughts will often wander 
back to these " Isles of the Beautiful Past," and linger like 
" sweet memories" among their scenes of beauty and love- 
liness. 

We had fine views of the Simplon and Monte Kosa ; but the 
stars had begun to twinkle in the sky, and to dance and tremble 
under the ripples made by our boat, and these, with the cool winds 
coming down from the snow-covered Alps, warned us to return to 
our hotel, which we reached quite late. 

11th. — At the early hour of half-past six o'clock we were on 
board the steamer bound for Arona, lower down the lake. The 
scenery onMaggiore is more tame than that of Como or Lugano, 
but is nevertheless grand and beautiful. It is difficult for one to 
determine which he likes the better— the wild and rugged moun- 
tains which tower up above the clouds, looking as if they had been 
torn and shattered by some mighty convulsions of nature, which 
desolated, but did not destroy ; or the more sloping and less ele- 
vated ones, covered with rich foliage, and with little towns and 
pretty villas scattered over and hanging on their sides. "We went 
directly from the boat to the cars, and in an hour we arrived at 
Novara, where our road intersected the Milan and Turin road. 
Here we had to wait an hour for the train going to Milan. Sade and 
I walked up to the cathedral — a very imposing edifice, with a high 
and not unattractive tower. The interior was plain. Some of the 
chapels, however, are handsomely frescoed. It was at this town that 
the brave and patriotic Sardinian king, Charles Albert, with an 
army of forty thousand, was defeated by the Austrians under Rad 
etzky, numbering eighty thousand men and two hundred cannon, 
March 23d, 1849. The Sardinian loss was ten thousand in killed 
and wounded. On the same day of his defeat Charles Albert abdi- 



202 JOUENAL OP A TOUE THEOUGH 

en tod in favor of his son Victor Emmanuel. On the 31st May, 
1 859, the Sardinians and French Zouaves defeated the Aiistrians 
here, which obliged them to retreat into Lombardy. At 10:45 a. m. 
we were again in the cars and on our way to Milan. We passed 
Magenta, where the French and Sardinians gained their great 
victory over the Austrians on the 4th of June, 1859. From the 
cars we had a view of the monument which marks the spot where 
General Espinasse fell. We arrived at Milan at 12 m. 

12th. — We left at 12:40 p. m. for Venice. Among the places 
which we passed are Breschia, said to be a desirable place 
of residence in summer and autumn ; Verona, with a popu- 
lation of thirty thousand ; Viacenza, population thirty-six thou- 
sand ; and Padua, forty-five thousand. The latter was plundered 
by Atilla in 452, when the inhabitants who were dispersed 
built Venice, which was so surrounded by water as to pro- 
tect them from further attacks. At Padua we met Mr. and 

jVlrs. P 1, and Misses S s and M j, and Mr. 

H r and brother, of New York, who had come on from 

Bologna. Mrs P. and party came into the car with us. 
We reached Venice at eight o'clock p.m. A gondola! a gon- 
dolier! What a magic charm do not these words breathe in 
our ears ! " Softly and voluptuously does the soul rock itself 
in the poetic images of the distant past — even as the bark rocks 
itself on the gently undulating waves of the canal." It seemed 
strange on arriving at the depot to see no carriages, but this was 
soon forgotten in our anxiety to get to the hotel. Mr. P. and T 
engaged a gondola, and after seeing the ladies on board we re- 
turned to the baggage-room and had our trunks conveyed on 
another, on which we embarked for the Hotel del' Europe, 
with its dining-saloon at the top of the house, where we had 
good rooms and a commanding view, as it was situated on 

the outer part of the Canale Grande. The Messrs. H stopped 

here also. The hotel was once a palace, and we could know 
no reason why we should not live like princes. '"Never," says 
a writer, " could I form a conception of such perfect unbroken 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 203 

Stillness as that which reigns in Venice. The ear becomes 
so accustomed to the confused medley of sounds arising from 
the rolling of carriages, the tramping of horses, and the tread of 
busy, bustling crowds, that they never strike us as anything un- 
usual until they reach an unaccustomed pitch. Real repose, 
unbroken silence, is a thing utterly unknown to us in our towns. 
When, therefore, here, in the midst of a great city, as we pass 
along the water-streets of Venice, we find ourselves surrounded 
by a death-like stillness, it seems to us as though we were wander- 
ing in a dream, and old tales of the silent city, and of the beauti- 
ful Veneta engulphed within the deep recesses of the ocean, float 
before the wandering and bewildered mind, until suddenly the 
gondola pauses before the steps of the piazzetta, and new images 
of enchantment arise to fascinate our souls." 

13th. — After a late breakfast we descended to the front steps 
of the hotel, where a gondola awaited us. We stepped in upon 
the carpeted floor, and had scarcely time to be seated when we 
were [gliding noiselessly, but with arrowy speed, over the dark 
waters. Before we could recover from the excitement of starting, 
the gondoliers brought us up to the steps leading to St. Mark's 
Square (Piazza San Marco). We landed, and were soon walking 
across the square, which is the largest, and by far the most inter- 
esting one in the city. It is surrounded on three sides by arcades, 
in which are cafes, jewellers' shops, fancy stores, etc. On the 
east side stands St. Mark's Cathedral and Campanile, and the 
*' three red poles — the trophies won by Venice from the Morea, 
Candia, and Cyprus, from which three flags once waved proudly 
before they were transplanted to this foreign strand." On the 
north side is the Procuratie Vecchie and the Orologio Tower. 
On the west side formerly stood the Church of San Geminiano, 
and on the south are the Procuratie, and on the east side is the 
Palazzo Ducale, more generally called the Doge's Palace. The 
Cathedral is an old and unique-looking edifice, in the shape of the 
Greek cross, described by architects as purely Byzantine in its 
style. It was begun in 976 by architects from Constantinople, 
and was finished in 1071. Its length is two hundred and five 



204 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

feet by one hundred and sixty-four feet wide, through the transept. 
It is rich in detail, having a great profusion of beautiful columns 
of Oriental marble, bass-reliefs, and other sculpture. The general 
effect is by no means pleasing. It abounds in Mosaics on walls and 
ceilings, some of which are very grotesque ; it is remarkable for 
these and for the great number of its rare marble pillars, both inside 
and out. The floor in places is undulating, and it is stated that 
it was built so to resemble the waves of the sea. Our next visit 
was to the Ducal Palace, the old seat of the Doges — a large and 
quaint old building of the Saracenic style, built in the fourteenth 
century. A part of it has been imitated in our new Academy of 
Design. It was formerly the seat of Government, and contained 
the halls of the various departments — prisons and other rooms. 
One of the largest of these halls is now used as a library. Other 
rooms are devoted to old statuary — the Museum of Antiquities 
and Paintings. Around the cornices in two of the rooms are 
portraits of the Doges. A black panel is in the place where we 
look for that of the Doge Marino Faliero. 

In another room we saw a curious old Turkish map in 
the form of a heart. From these halls we descended into 
the prison rooms, or dungeons, and more gloomy looking cells 
could not be found in the wide w^orld— small, damp, and dark. 
No ray of light ever fell upon the inmates of these prisons. What 
a contrast between these and the halls above ! We passed from 
these to the Ponte de' Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, which leads 
from the palace across the canal to the prison (not the one just 
referred to). No political prisoner who crossed this bridge ever 
returned again. 

"I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, 

A palace and a prison on eacli hand: 
I saw from out the waves her structures rise 

As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand. 
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand 

Around me, and a dying glory smiles 
O'er the far times, when many a subject land 

Looked to the winged Lion's marble piles. 
Where Venice sate in state, throned on her hundred isles." 



GEEAT BRITAIN ANT) ON THE CONTINENT. 205 

We felt a sense of relief upon getting out into the sunshine 
again. After walking around the square, and amusing ourselves 
by looking into the shop windows, we entered one of the many- 
inviting little cafes under the arcade, and had a lunch. There 
are immense numbers of pigeons housed near the square, 
which, it is said, a;re fed at the expense of the city, at twelve 
o'clock each day. We purchased a few pounds of rice, and gave 
it to Howie, who commenced throwing it to a few which were 
moving about on the square. In a short time they began to fly 
down from every direction, and he was soon surrounded by 
hundreds of them. So numerous were they that he could hardly 
get out from among them. They alighted on his head, arms, and 
shoulders, and flew around him so thickly that he had actually 
to push his way out. He enjoyed the excitement quite as much 
after he got back on the sidewalk as when among them. We 
returned to our gondola, and were rowed down the Lagoon 
opposite to the Ledo, where Eugene Beauharnais formed a public 
garden, which, if not an oasis in a thirsty land, is certainly a 
green spot in the wilderness of water, and the only one in Venice. 
On our way we passed around an Italian iron-clad man-of-war, 
which I learned was one of the vessels that engaged the Austrians 
tlic year previous, when the Italian fleet of wood and iron-clads 
were defeated by the Austrian fleet of wood vessels, though inferior 
in numbers and metal. 

14th. — We started out after breakfast, and having procured 
one of those " necessary nuisances," a valet de place, we went to 
tiie church of Santa Maria della Salute, or the Madonna of Health. 
It is a celebrated church, octagonal in shape, having two cupolas 
and six chapels. The high altar is of white marble — the top- 
piece being a Madonna and child, with a crown suspended over 
her head, and on the sides allegorical statues of Venice, im- 
p'oiing the Virgin to remove the plague, which is already fleeing 
away. There were also statues of two Saints. The dome in the 
centre of the church is sixty-five feet in diameter. Amongst the 
number of good paintings in the church are "The Marriage at 



206 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

Cana of Galilee," by Tintoretto, and "The Descent of the Holy 
Ghost," by Titian, when eighty-four years old. The choir has 
some exquisite wood carvings. There are a number of tombs, 
and one in particular, which attracted our attention ; it is of 
marble, with a glass front, showing what is said to be the bones 
of Saint Crescintes, a saint entirely unknown to any of us. 

We went to the Accademia delle Belle Arte, on the Grande 
Canal, in which is a large collection of the best works of the 
most celebrated painters. There are about twenty rooms, some 
of which are elegantly carved. Titian's celebrated painting of 
the Assumption of the Virgin^ is the prominent picture here. It 
must be a work of great merit, as it is said to be among the best 
paintings in the world ; but I must confess that I could not ap- 
preciate it. I saw other pictures which pleased me much better. 
In the same room is the Visitation, painted by Titian when only 
fourteen years old, and by its side hangs the Deposition from the 
Cross, commenced by him when niaety-nine years old, and fin- 
ished by Palma Giovanni. These three are said to be his first, 
best, and last works. Tintoretto's Miracle of St. Mark, deliver- 
ing a slave from death, is a fine painting. Among the large col- 
lection here I may further mention Christ in the House of the . 
Pharisee, by Paul Veronese ; Presentation in the Temple, a very 
large picture, by Titian, in which the portrait of his mother sell- 
ing eggs and chickens, and his own portrait, are introduced. The 
Descent of the Holy Ghost, by Pandovanino ; St. John in the Desert, 
by Titian, and The Procession in Piazza San Marco, a large paint- 
ing, full of portraits We saw many others that we admired, but 
I had not time to note them down. 

We then went to the Church of S. Giorgio Maggiore, situated 
on a small island opposite St. Mark's. It is a high but narrow 
church, in the shape of a Latin cross, with nothing \ery striking 
in the interior except the high altar, which has some good bronze 
figures, and the choir, which has forty-eight beautifully carved 
stalls in wood, representing events in the life of St. Benedict, by 
Albert de Brule, 'a Flemish artist. Both the designs and execution 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 207 

are veiy beautiful. We then went to the Ponte Rialto, which, 
until 1854, was the only bridge crossing the Grande Canal. It is a 
covered ai'ch, built in 1589 to '91, and has three passages — the 
middle one having a double row of shops. It has been described 
as a beautiful structure ; but to me it appeared heavy and entirely 
devoid of symmetry. Near by the bridge stands the house said 
to have been occupied by "Shylock." We of course paid our 
respects to the former abode of this renowned Israelite. In 
Venice we are more than once reminded of Shakespeare. '' Shy- 
lock still darkens the Rialto with his frown ; the lordly form of 
Othello yet stalks across the piazza of St. Mark, and every veil 
that flutters in the breeze shrouds the roguish black eyes of Jes- 
sica." We afterward went to the Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa di 
Frari, a venerable old church of the thirteenth century. In it is the 
monument of Titian, raised at the personal expense of the Em- 
peror of Austria. It was finished in 1853, about three hundred 
years after Titian's death, which occurred in 1566, and is a beau- 
tiful monument. The painter, crowned with laurels, is seated 
under a canopy, decorated in the Corinthian style, and resting 
upon a massive base, on which are four statues ; on each side of 
the statue of the painter are small statues. Directly opposite 
this monumient is another, to Canova, erected in 1827, by sub- 
scription. It is copied from one of his own designs, for the Arch- 
duchess Christiana of Vienna, It is a pyramid, with a proces- 
sion of Art, Genius, etc., walking in at the door. Near this is 
the Mausoleum of Doge G. Pesaro, an immense mass of statu- 
ary, without either taste or beauty, supported by four Moors or 
negroes in black marble, with white marble drapery. There are 
numerous other monuments of distingurshed persons in this 
church. The cloister surrounding the choir is adorned with stat- 
ues and bass-reliefs in marble, and there are some fine specimens 
of wood carving and inlaid work, and a curious old clock, on the 
face of which is represented the life of man. 

15M. — It rained during the entire day. I spent some hours in 
perambulating the narrow and crooked streets — manygof them so 



208 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

narrow that I could not carry my umbrella — and returned to the 

hotel with wet feet. Mr. H r favored us with some music 

on the piano, in which he displayed exquisite taste and skill. 

16th, Sunday. — We went to the English Church in the morn- 
ing. The minister's voice was unpleasant and indistinct, and we 
had difficulty in following him in his discourse. The sermon 
was from John iii. 3, and contained some good things — much 
that would benefit us, if we would apply it to our daily lives. 

In the afternoon I took a very long walk — going as far as the 
Public Gardens — which we had rowed past a day or two before. 
It was a gala day, and flags were waving from house-tops and 
even windows. The ashes of five Italian patriots, who were 
shot by the Austrians in 1852, for conspiracy, were brought from 
Padua, and interred in one of the churches. The procession of 
Gondolas is said to have been very imposing ; the catafalque in 
which the ashes were conveyed through the city to the burial place, 
was handsomely fitted up, and solemnly beautiful. We, however, 
saw nothing of the procession. The garden, although the only 
one in the city, is neglected and kept in very bad order. 

11 th. — Soon after breakfast we left the hotel on another tour of 
observation, and were soon gliding along over the bright waters. 
We were "at the disposal" of our valet de place, and were first 
conducted to the Gli Scalzi, the church of the barefooted Carmel- 
ites, situated on the Grand Canal, near the railway station. The 
front, which was restored in 1859, is of Carrara marble. It has 
some chapels, the walls of which are of inlaid marble, and is richly 
ornamented with paintings and statues ; the high altar is supported 
by eight spiral columns of verd antique and red marble from 
the Alps, and four square pillars of African marble ; the ceilings 
are vaulted, and elaborately gilded and frescoed. We went 
to the Maria Assunta del Gesuiti ; this church is also rich in 
marble sculpture and frescoes, the walls and pillars are of white 
marble, inlaid with green ; the pulpit has a canopy and curtains 
of marble, in same workmanship. The floor in front of the altar 
is inlaid in colors, to represent a carpet, the high altar is a fine 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 209 

ppccimen of workmanship, and is enriched with iapis lazuli and 
verd antique pillars. There are some rich chapels in this church, 
in one of which is a monument to Doge P. Cicogna. And also 
fome good paintings, one by Titian, which is much faded. 
Our next place was the Giovanelli palace, one of the most chaste, 
unique, and handsomely-furnished palaces we have yet seen. The 
rooms are not large, but are well arranged and furnished with 
exquisite taste. The walls are hung with the richest satin dam- 
ask, and the curtains to the windows and beds are of the same 
material, and these were manufactured at Milan. Several rooms 
are devoted to paintings, ancient and modern; the floors 
are of inlaid marble, inlaid wood, and composition, and are 
strikirg in their effect. After giving the usual fees to the servants 
in charge, we again entered our gondola and were rowed over 
to the island of Murano to see the glass-works, and we first went 
to the bead m.anufactories. Venice, 1 believe, manufactures more 
beads, bugles, and other glass trimmings for ladies' dresses, than 
any otlier city in Europe. We saw the entire process of making, 
which is curious. We went to another establishment in close 
proximity to this, where we saw the process of blowing glass bot- 
tles, tumblers, etc. Sade and Howie each blew a small glass 
bottle, which unfortunately broke in cooling." We stopped on 
our return at the church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo (Sts. John and 
l*aul), the next in size to St. Mark's, its length being three hun- 
dred feet. It was built during 1246-1430. There are numerous 
monuments in it to doges, senators, and other distinguished per- 
sons ; and in some of the chapels are fine specimens of sculpture. 
Among its numicrous mausoleums, the one to Doge Vendramini, 
who was made a noble for his military services at Chioggia against 
the Genoese, stands prominent. It is said to be the best monu- 
ment in Venice. The high altar is fine ; the walls of the altar 
are covered with bass-reliefs in marble, representing scenes in the 
life of our Saviour, by different artists, which are wonderfully well 
executed. There are some fine wood carvings. A description of 
the diixerent chapels, numerous monuments, and works of art con- 



210 JOUENAL OF A TOUB THROUGH 

taiiied in this church, would fill a large volume, and the wi'iter 
would have to spend weeks in examining them before he would 
be qualified to do his work well ; and as I have not the space to 
spare and only spent an hour or two in examining,* I will stop 
here. We returned to the hotel in time for dinner. In the 
evening we rowed as far as the Lido ; landed there, and Sade 
gathered some flowers to press for her collection. 

We were all disappointed at the small number of gondolas we 
saw in Venice. The wealthier part of the inhabitants own them 
as carriages are owned by the same class of persons in other cities, 
and the public ones occupy the places of hacks or public carriages. 
The masses go on foot, and the narrow and crooked streets are 
generally so crowded as to make it inconvenient to get through. 
About noon St. Mark's Square is densely crowded ; the numerous 
cafes, which are handsomely fitted up, are filled with persons of 
both sexes, and the arcades swarm with multitudes who seem to 
have no particular object in life but to move up and down and 
jostle against each other merely for the pleasure of the thing. The 
present population of Venice is about one hundred and twenty 
thousand. The ancient government of Venice was a despotism 
supported chiefly by an all-pervading secret police. 

'•All eye, all ear, nowhere and everywhere." 

The laws were made and administered in the interest of merchant 
princes. What will contribute to the prosperity of this great market 
of the world ? was ever the first and paramount question. Commerce 
loves political repose, as the recent history of Paris demonstrates. 
In Venice, accordingly, there were but few civil commotions and 
no revolutionary whirlwinds, such as have long been disturbing 
the calculations of all American merchants, except the few who 



* The reader will find iu Buskin's Stones of Venice, a full and instruc- 
tive description and discussion of these and other mortuary monuments. 



GKEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 211 

are also far-seeing politicians. The prison in the Doge's palace 
disposed of all malcontents. 

Few houses of the size were better filled, 

Though raany came and left it in an hour. 

" Most nights," so said the good old Nicolo, 

***** most nights arrived, 

The prison boat, that boat with many oars, 

And bore away as to the lower world, 

Disburdening in the canal Orfano, 

That drowning place where never net was thrown. 
********** 

And where a secret once deposited, 

Lay till the waters should give up their dead. — Bogers. 

I have recently read a description of Venice, from the pen of a 
lady, which is so exceedingly good that I cannot refrain from 
transferring a part of it, at least, to these pages. It will, I know, 
be like throwing a diamond among common pebbles, and the rude 
sketches which I have drawn must suffer by the contrast ; but as 
this journal is compiled as a book of reference, and to refresh my 
own memory of the places and things which I have seen, and pos- 
sihly for the perusal of my relations and a few intimate friends, 
and as I am no aspirant for literary distinction or public favor, I 
can afford to make this beautifully-drawn picture, which has been 
a source of so much pleasure to me, accessible to them. 

*' It is night. The pale beams of the silvery moonlight are 
struggling through a curtain of clouds, which the gentle breath of 
the light breeze is slowly dissipating and causing to melt away 
from the tranquil face of heaven ; the stars are peeping forth 
stealthily, one by one ; the waves of the sea are slumbering in 
peaceful repose ; the gondolier has rested on his oar before the 
broad flight of stairs. We land, and, ascending the steps, pass 
between the two beautiful pillai's of the Piazzetta, adorned with 
the Winged Lion and a St. Theodore, which seem to keep watch 
over Venice and protect our entrance into the city. 

" An oriental-looking building lies to our right. Over the low 



212 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

pillars, richly adorned in the Byzantine style, which support the 
arch, rises the upper story of the edifice, which wears a most 
singular and grotesque aspect. The red burnt tiles, curiously 
wrought, form mysterious arabesques; wondrous forms stand 
forth from the sculptured marble which ornaments the building. 
The lofty windows command both the Piazza and the sea ; but 
no light beams within : the silence of night rests upon all around. 
Does some Arabian princess, perchance, lie slumbering within its 
walls, the beloved of the Abencarrage, borne by an envious 
magician from his embrace? Do genii keep watch therein, and 
whisper in the ears of the sleeper sweet dreams of her far-oiF 
lover, who sighs for her in the halls of the Alhambra ? Or is it 
rather the temple of some mysterious brotherhood, who reveal to 
their aspiring neophytes, by mystic tokens, the hidden secrets of 
their order *? We stand before the building in wonder and amaze- 
ment, for the Doge's Palace in Venice has not its like throughout 
the whole region of the west. 

"It is the charm of Eastern enchantment which surrounds us. 
We seem to hear the murmuring fountains, the whispering palm- 
leaves, which lull the sleeping sultans to repose as they recline on 
their soft divans. Bright parroquets are rocking themselves on 
golden rings ; gold and silver fish are floating in marble basins ; 
the senses are wrapt in a dream of enchantment and delight. But 
lo! the marble steps, the giant stairs of the Ducal Palace, meet 
the eye, and Marino Faliero's black funeral pall falls over the 
smiling images of eastern luxury and beauty. 

*' We turn away our eyes. Lights are gleaming from the 
surrounding shops ; the hand of the clock on the richly orna- 
mented fagade, glowing with gold and ultramarine, points to the 
hour of ten. We advance yet a few steps farther, and find our- 
selves in the Piazza San Marco. 

" A military band is playing. In front of the Church of St. 
Mark stand the three red poles, fixed in brazen sockets, the trophies 
won by Venice from the Morea, Candia, and Cyprus, whose flags 
once waved proudly from their summits ere they were transplanted 



GREAT BEITAIN AlW ON THE CONTINENT. 213 

to this foreign strand. Shipmasters in Dalmatian costume, peasants 
from the neighboring islands, and sailors from the free states of 
North America, lie clustered around their base ; cafes and jewel- 
lers shops are to be seen in whichever direction one turns his eyes. 
The arcades, which on three sides surround the ]*iazza of St. 
Mark, are full of them. This Piazza resembles a gigantic opera- 
house ; and even the confused murmur of the moving crowds 
unmingled with the noise of horses' tread or rolling wheels, pro- 
duces a sound similar to that which proceeds from a thronged and 
festive hall. 

" The Piazza of St. Mark presents to us Italian society and 
Italian popular life mingled together in one harmonious picture ; 
and yet Venice is no longer Italy proper, the Italy of the south.* 
Venice is a place apart, a beautiful marvel, a mysterious riddle, a 
proud ruin, around which the glories of the past cast a halo of 
enchantment. Venice is a fair, a free-born, and poetic woman, 
crushed beneath the iron rule of a tyrant to whose will she is 
compelled to bow. Venice is imperishably beautiful, and yet 
already a prey to corruption and decay ; and even because Venice 
is all this, is it the magic, the dream-like, the fantastic, the incom- 
parable city which it is and must ever be. 

" On the Piazza of San Marco are rows of seats placed side by 
side ; waiters hasten from one to another bringing ices, coffee, 
and sherbets ; boys offer candied fruits for sale in ornamental 
baskets, and in their soft musical dialect press us to purchase shell 
boxes, coral ornaments, fans, and imitation pearls. Well dressed 
men and women are walking about arm-in-arm ; contemplative 
Persians, venerable Armenians, and young black-eyed Greeks, 
repose in the open saloons of the coffee-houses, or lie stretched 
upon the benches of the Piazza, Avith their long pipes in their 
mouths, and their dark, gray eyes fixed in wondering amazement 



* This was WTitten while Venice was yet a part of the Austrian 
doEQinions. 



214 JOURNAL OP A TOUE THROUGH 

on the gaylj-dressed women who venture thus to wander forth 
unveiled and leaning on the arms of men. 

" Here, too, are to be seen Austrian officers wearing siicTcs (poor 
insignia of honor) suspended by their sides, hanging from the 
belts which encircle their tightly-laced waists ; here gold pieces 
glitter in the shop of a money-changer, and ship captains are 
concluding contracts for a voyage. Now and then, but rarely in 
comparison with Kome or Naples, may be seen a belated monk 
gliding hastily along beneath the arcades. Siiould he have been 
the bearer of comfort and consolation to the couch of the sufferer, 
or the chamber of the mourner, how strangely must the* sounds 
of merriment jar upon his ear as he crosses the Piazza of St. 
Mark ! But should his heart not be in his work, should his vows 
be distasteful to his soul, oh ! how must he then long to share the 
freedom of the gay throng around him ! 

*' From the windows of the surrounding buildings, as from the 
boxes of a theatre, men and women gaze forth on the surrounding 
scene ; and their forms stand out in clear and graceful outline 
against the brilliantly-illuminated background, which the interior 
of the saloon affords. The whole square is thronged with human 
beings in whichever direction you turn your eye ; the sounds of 
music are wafted toward us by the passing breeze ; human voices 
emulate its joyous clangor; the merry laugh rings through the 
night air. Hour after hour passes away, the hands of the clock 
sink lower and lower on the dial-plate, and yet the light-hearted 
throng still wander on. The midnight hour has struck, the moon 
has sunk into the sea ; the groups on the Piazza San Marco have 
now begun to disperse. One can walk about with more freedom ; 
the fresh sea-breeze is more sensibly felt ; the gaslights begin to 
flicker more restlessly beneath its influence. Now we first begin 
to perceive the size and beauty of the Piazza, and, walking to its 
farthest end, one obtains a full view of its whole extent. 

"In proud majesty does the slender Campanile rise like a 
gigantic column from the pavement of the Piazza, free and self- 
subsisting, not resting for support either on church or palace ; an 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 215 

image of the self-subsisting republic which reared the beauteous 
fabric. The background glows in golden splendor. The Church 
of St. Mark is adorned in all the costly grandeur of the Byzantine 
style ; and, from the midst of the circular eastern arch, with the 
kiosk-shaped pinnacles, from the midst of the gorgeous golden 
Mosaic which adorns its fa9ade, gleams forth from the surround- 
ing gloom crowning the summit of the principal entrance porch of 
St. Mark, a peaceful image, gazing down in tranquil majesty 
upon the restless tide of human life below — the image of the 
victorious Christ, triumphant over death and sin and suffering, 
about to ascend from earth to His Father's home in heaven. 

'* DAYLIGHT. 

" Venice, when seen by day, wears a far different aspect from 
that which it presents when shrouded by the veil of night. The 
poetic world of wonder and enchantment disappears, and mournful 
images of destruction and decay stand forth before us in all their 
naked and harsh reality. 

*'The Piazza of St. Mark, the public buildings, the haven, the 
church, the arsenal — everything for which government is answer- 
able — are well preserved and carefully maintained. But this care 
on the part of government can only suffice to retain in mummy- 
like preservation the creations of the past : it cannot infuse new 
life into the veins of the republic. The shell may retain its out- 
ward form and coraeli'ness, l3ut the soul has fled from its mortal 
tenement. The old institutions, the ancient races, have disap- 
peared ; the larger portion of the palaces stand there in sorrowful 
decay, dreary, desolate, and uninhabited ; green water moss grows 
on the marble slabs of the splendid stairs ; the lofty doors of the 
balconies are boarded up ; many windows are destitute of sashes, 
whilst others, incrusted with dust, bespeak the years which have 
passed away since they were last touched by the hand of man. 

" Venice leaves the most sorrowful impression on the mind, 
when beneath the broad light of day you glide along its silent 



216 " JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

canals ; and I never could comprehend why it should be called 
par excellence, ' the City of Love.' Love likes to see itself sur- 
rounded by green trees, flowery plains, and verdant meadows. 
Venice is destitute of all these charms. No leaf, no tree, no 
verdure meets the eye throughout the whole extent of the city ; 
no song of birds is heard; no sweet perfume of flowery plains is 
wafted on the passing br.eeze. 

"Venice exhibits the triumph of human will over the force of 
unfavorable circumstances ; it proves that man may found on any 
spot, however barren or unpromising, a fatherland, a home, a 
country, where he may plant the banner of freedom, and live 
beneath its shade. But Venice is nevertheless too entirely the 
product of art. You feel yourself utterly severed from Nature, 
and seem to be dwelling beneath some strange spell, which places 
you apart from all the ordinary conditions of your earthly life. 
I often. felt like a bird placed beneath an air-pump, which is 
sensible, with increasing suffering, that its accustomed element is 
gradually departing from around it. 

" From the piazzetta, which opens with such a lovely prospect 
toward the sea, from the beautiful quay, the lliva dei Schiavoni, 
I gaze with ever-increasing longing over toward the Lido, where 
Eugene Beauharnais formed a beautiful public garden. A little 
spot near a ship-inn on the Island Giudecca, whither we went one 
day to breakfast, appeared to me a perfect paradise, because the 
spreading boughs of a couple of trees shed a grateful shade over 
the table at which we sat, and scarlet runners and gourds en- 
twined their graceful tendrils around the trellised fences which 
protected the little enclosure. 

" The first vivid impression which the mind receives of the 
totally distinct mode of existence in Venice is that which is pre- 
sented to it in passing from the Canale Grande into the side canals, 
and seeing on every side only new water-streets stretching forth 
in every direction. I set out one morning to visit my banker. 
The crondolier conducted us through increasingly narrow streets ; 
uauo-ht v/as to be seen save the slimy waters and the lofty walls 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 217 

on either side ; only here and there a man standing on the narrow 
quays ; and now and then the call-of a gondolier might be heard 
announcing his approach from some neighboring canal — a precau- 
tion which the length of the .boats rendered necessary, in order to 
avoid a collision in these narrow channels.* At last, the gondolier 
rested on his oars in front of a stately house ; he pulled the bell ; 
the door was opened. The water at that time stood at a great 
height, and had but a short time previously stood yet higher in 
the canals ; the whole jEiight of steps in the interior of the house 
was overflowed. A little bridge led from the foot of the stairs up 
to the court-yard, but the whole court was deluged with wet ; the 
water had left slime and mud in the princely hall, and an unwhole- 
some vapor ascended from the ground beneath the warm rays of 
the brilliant sunshine. When I passed on to the upper story of 
the house, and saw the banker actually wallowing in wealth, 
having at his command piles of gold which would suffice to procure 
for him every enjoyment that money could purchase, I could not 
but ask myself in wondering amazement, what can retain men in 
this unnatural abode, now that it has ceased to be the asylum of 
liberty ? What can induce them to banish themselves to these 
dreary marshes, whilst in Rome and Naples the world is bursting 
forth into newly-quickened life and beauty beneath the fresh breath 
of autumn ? 

" Venice is a poetic marvel, on which the fancy may feast for 
a time in wondering delight ; but, I repeat, it is not a spot which 
I should either choose or endure as a place of residence, much as 
I have heard it extolled in this respect. 

" If ever there was a nation which stood in need of the culture 
of art to cheer and elevate their minds, it was the Venetians. 
Art must have been their only consolation ; to it their soul turned 
with passionate earnestness ; and it is natural that they should 



* This cry is rendered necessary not only by the length of the gon- 
dola, but by the houses which intercept the view of the gondoHer, par- 
ticularly at the corners where the canals bisect each other. 

10 



218 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

have sought to adorn their city and their dwelling-places, in order 
to compensate for their deprivation of all the beauties of nature. 

" In the noble creations of art, in the past remembrances of 
glory with vv^hich Venice abounds, the soul takes refuge from her 
present desolation ; in these the stranger dwells throughout the 
day, until evening casts her mellowing veil around the scene ; then 
the gas-lights are kindled on the Piazza of St. Mark, and the Piaz- 
zetta and the charming fairy tales of enchantment again weave 
around him their golden web of wonder and delight. 

" In no other spot in the world are art and history so indisso- 
lubly linked together as in Venice. The Palace of the Doges, the 
Campanile, the Piazzetta, the lions of the Piraeus, which guard 
the entrance of the arsenal ; all these monuments of the mighty 
past we find repeated in the paintings with which the halls of 
every palace in Venice are decorated. The heroes whose deeds 
are immortalized by a master hand on the walls of the great 
council chamber are represented in these pictures as landing from 
their galleys beneath the windows of this very Ducal Palace. 
Venetian artists needed not to search the ages of antiquity, in 
order to find a fitting subject for their pencils ; the victories of 
that republic of which they were citizens, supplied them with 
ample materials; women fair as even a painter's eye could desire 
might daily be seen treading the pavement of the Piazza of St. 
Mark ; the consciousness of freedom, of self rule, stamped upon 
every citizen, as these old portraits fully testify, a noble, manly 
individuality of expression. The artist depicted the present, whose 
grateful thanks he won, and perpetuated its existence even to the 
remotest future." 

18th. — We are to bid adieu to the " Queen of the Adriatic" this 
morning. After an early breakfast our baggage was brought down 
and placed on a gondola. " Mine host" and a majority of the 
servants of the hotel awaited us at the front steps, the former to 
wish us a pleasant journey, the latter for a fee,^ although some of 
them had not seen us before. We were assisted on the gondola, 
the "aw revoir^ in French, and ^^ a revedere" in Italian (till we meet 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 219 

again), were exchanged, as we pushed off for the depot, which 
we reached in time for the IQl a. m. train for Verona. The 
morning was delightfully cool, and a pleasant run of two hours 
brought us to that city. We stopped at the Hotel della due 
Tours, which, although the best in the place, we found to be 
anything but comfortable. The rooms all open upon a piazza 
running around the court, the lower part of which is used as 
stables. We ordered a lunch, and after partaking of it, started 
out to do Verona with a vale de jjlace, whose French was so 
exceedingly like Italian that we could not understand more than 
two words in ten. We soon discovered that we had been *^sold,'* 
but consoled ourselves with the fact that he at least knew the 
location of the places we wished to see, and could take us to 
them. We first went to the Tombs (numbering six in all) of the 
illustrious family della Scala (called the mausoleum of the 
Scaligeri), who once ruled over the town. All of these tombs 
*' are curious for the antique taste of their monumental effigies 
on horseback, and for their pinnacles, statues, pyramids, 
bass-reliefs, etc." Two of them are exceedingly good : that of 
Mastino II, who died 1351, stands on four columns, each of 
which has an architrave of nine feet. On the beam is a large 
square of marble forming a floor on which rests the urn. Four 
other columns support the vault that covers the urn, and the 
rest is adorned by facts from the Old Testament. Upon the 
summit is the equestrian statue, life size ; the other, that of Gan 
Signorio, born in 1340, died 1375, who was the last prince of 
that dynasty, and who, to make himself secure in power, mur- 
dered his two brothers. He expended ten thousand florins in 
preparing this sepulchre while he was yet alive, which he 
intended should surpass in magnificence that of any of his 
predecessors. Six columns support the floor of marble ; six 
others support the top on which is the Scaligero's statue. The 
architecture is of the Gothic order, the workmanship elaborate, 
and the monument, as a whole, a noble work of art. A part of 
the monument is supported by the figures of Faith, Hope, and 



220 JOUENAL OF A TOXJR THEOUGH 

Charity. Another monument is to Cangrande (the Great Doge), 
who was the friend of Dante. The history of this family is in- 
structive, reflecting, as it does, the intrigues and cruelties of the 
age in which they lived. We had pointed out to us the house in 
which Shakspeare's Juliet is said to have lived. 

"And shall I sup where Juliet at the masque 
Saw her loved Montague ?" 

We directed our course toward the Amphitheatre, which I 
believe ranks second to the Colosseum of Rome. It was built 
during the reign of Domitian and Trajan, near the end of the 
first century. Of the outer walls only four arches, with the parts 
above them, remain. The inner circle, with the concentric 
benches, staircases, and the parts about the arena, are almost in a 
perfect state of preservation ; it is of oval shape, five hundred 
feet by four hundred and four feet, and ninety-eight feet high ; the 
arena was two hundred and forty-two feet by one hundred and 
forty-six feet. A theatre stood in the centre, over a reservoir. It 
had seventy-two Doric arches, supported by pilasters, in each of its 
three stories leading into the passages, or vometories. It accom- 
modated fifty thousand persons. We visited some old Roman 
arches and a church, the name of which I have forgotten, after 
which we returned to the hotel. 

After dinner we drove to the gardens of Giusto, ascended to 
their summit by a long winding flight of steps and inclined plains. 
We had a good view of the city, and saw its numerous impreg- 
nable fortresses and the surrounding country stretching away as 
far as the eye could reach. The hills on which the Italian army 
was defeated by the Austrians in 1865 (Constanza), were in full 
view. We returned through the grounds to the carriage which 
awaited us at their entrance, and drove around some of the forti- 
fications, regretting very much that we had not time to pass 
through them. The extent and strength of the fortifications of 
Verona far exceeded our preconceived ideas of them. 

Verona has a population of between twenty and thirty thou- 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 221 

sand. It is situated on both banks of the Adige, at the foot of 
the Tyrol Alps.' Some of the streets are wide, but the greater 
part of them are narrow and not very prepossessing in their 
appearance. There are numerous old Roman ruins yet visible. 
It has been a strongly fortified city since the time of Theodoric 
the Goth. It was considered the bulwark of upper Italy, and 
was the favorite seat of Odoacer, Theodoric, King Pepin, and 
other descendants of Charlemagne. It was sacked and partly 
destroyed by the Huns in the tenth century. The defences of the 
early and middle ages have given place to the modern Austrian 
fortifications, numbering upward of forty, and situated on the 
surrounding heights. This, with Peschiera, Mantua, and Leg- 
nano, constitutes the famous military Quadrilateral, so often men- 
tioned in the late war between France and Italy against Austria. 
Paul Veronese and Alexander Veronese were natives of Verona. 

l^th. — After breakfast I strolled through some of the streets, 
which were shaded by linen awnings in the centre, about ten to 
fifteen feet wide, stretching the whole length of the streets. These 
shaded both man and beast, and one could easily feel the advan- 
tages of the awnings, on emerging from under them into the hot 
Italian sun. I went to a money-changer and converted some 
French gold into Austrian paper florins, and returned to the hotel. 

The majority of the women here, as at Genoa, wear veils, 
which serve as the only covering of the head ; a few, however, 
of the higher classes, wear bonnets. In this mild climate they 
must be very comfortable during the greater part of the year. 
" A veil," says a late traveller, " is the most expressive and sym- 
bolical of all forms of costume. Art, in all its forms, welcomes 
and adopts it ; but before a bonnet the poet drops his pen, the 
sculptor his chisel, and the painter his brush." 

2:45 p. M. found us again in the cars and on our way to Bot- 
zen, the present terminus of the railway across the Brenner pass. 
The road follows the banks of the swift Adige for most of the 
way up. After leaving the plains it enters a narrow defile, with 
mountains towering up almost perpendicularly on each side. An 



222 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

'hour and forty minutes run brought us to Peri, the frontier town 
between Italy and Austria. Between it and Valdagna is the 
defile in the mountains, called Chiusa de' Verona, which is four 
thousand eight hundred feet long, and barely wide enough for the 
bed of the river and the road, on either side of which there are 
perpendicular walls of rock of immense height. At some distance 
from the road, on the right, is seen Eivoli, where the French 
defeated the Austrians, in 1797. We passed Caliano, with the 
old castle of Pietra on the heights above, and Roveredo, with a 
population of fifteen thousand. In 1487 the Austrians took the 
town by storm, defeating the Venetians. It suffered much in the 
wars of 1798. Cannon balls which were fired then, are still 
embedded in many of the houses. About two hundred thousand 
pounds of silk are annually exported from this place. The next 
place of interest we passed was Trient or Trent, situated in a 
rich valley, surrounded by lofty mountains. This place was 
made famous by the celebrated councils of Trient or Trent, 
held here from 1445 to 1463, during the reign of four 
popes. It was occupied by the French in 1809. The present 
population is fifteen thousand. On the heights near Salurn 
or Salorno, a town of twelve hundred inhabitants, are the 
ruins of an old castle which once commanded the pass. We 
passed many small towns and villages scattered along the valley, 
some of which were picturesquely situated, reaching Botzen at 
8:20 p. M., and stopping at the Kaiser Krone hotel. Botzen 
(Bolsano) has a population of fourteen thousand. It is situated on 
the Adige, at its junction with the Talferbach, in a valley sur- 
rounded by green hills. Here the railway terminates for the 
present ; but the road is in course of construction, and will be 
opened to Innsbruck, seventy miles distant, during the present 
year. This will make a direct communication by rail between 
Italy and Austria, over the Alps. 

20th. — After a good night's rest and an early breakfast, I went 
out in search of a carriage to convey us to Innsbruck. It was a 
religious fete day, and the streets and churches -were thronged 



GHEAT BSITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 223 

with gayly-dressed men, women, and children, and soldiers in the 
Austrian uniform. The people here, like their neighbors in Italy, 
may be behind the age in many things, but they are certainly not 
so in knowing how to enjoy a holiday. There is none of that 
undue and noisy excitement which is so common on similar occa- 
sions in our own country, A feeling of cheerful happiness seems 
to pervade all classes, and when the day ends, thsy return to their 
homes as quietly and orderly as congregations returning from 
church. This we remarked was general in Italy. I succeeded in 
getting a moderately comfortable carriage, and we left at 11 a. m. 
The day was intensely warm, and the roads so dusty that we 
could hardly breathe without inhaling almost dust enough to 
suffocate us. The road follows the banks of the river, which 
are shut in by hills on either side, with occasional narrow val- 
leys. The railway in construction also follows the river, first 
on one side and then on the other. After passing a number of 
small but uninviting towns, we reached Brixen, with a popu- 
lation of four thousand, and had a very poor dinner. 
The town is prettily situated in an elevated valley, surrounded 
by lofty mountains, at the confluence of the R-ienz and Eisach 
(Adige). There are numerous walnut and other trees which add 
much to the beauty of the place. We started at 5:30 p. m., 
and after proceeding about four miles, reached the modern-built 
fortress of Franzensfestung, which was constructed in 1833. It 
is of great strength, and defends the pass from three points, 
Italy, Germany, and Carinthia. W^ reached Mittenwald 
at nine o'clock, where we were to spend the night, and 
stopped at the Hotel Poste. We were indifferently accom- 
modated. A severely-contested battle was fought here in 1797 
between the French and the Austrians, and another in 1809, 
when the French were defeated by Hofer, a Tyrolese yeoman. 
Feteridge says of him, " The history of this patriot is short and 
exciting. He was an inn-keeper on the river Passer, near 
Meran, when, in 1808, Austria declared war against France, 
and being a man of fine address, noted for his honesty and 



224 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

eloquence, he soon gained complete control over the passsions 
of his countrymen. Under his leadership they drove, in a single 
year, the enemies of his country five times from her lovely valleys. 
In July, 1809, in consequence of the armistice of Znaim, the 
Austrian troops withdrew from the Tjo-ol, leaving the inhabit- 
ants to take care of themselves. Hofer was appointed leader of 
all the forces. The following month the French were defeated 
in attempting to cross the Brenner Pass. Three days later and 
the great battle of Iselberg was fought, when Hofer was again 
victorious, and, with a much inferior force, compelled the French 
to evacuate the Tyrol, when Hofer made a triumphant entry into 
Innsbruck, was placed at the head of the Tyrolese G-overnment, 
and occupied the Koyal Palace. He remained six weeks dressed 
in his peasant's costume, and not costing the government over 
five dollars a day for his personal expenses. The Emperor of 
Austria sent him a gold chain, and ennobled the family, granting 
Hofer a coat-of-arms. The following month Napoleon, having 
reinforced his army in a powerful manner, the French again got 
possession of Innsbruck. In November, 1809, after the treaty of 
peace at Schonbrunn, Hofer was ordered by the Emperor of Aus- 
tria to lay down his arms, but thinking the order a forgery, 
refused, and the Austrian troops having been withdrawn from the 
Tyrol, he w as finally overcome, and the leaders dispersed to the 
mountains. A price was set upon Hofer' s head, and he was 
betrayed by one of his companions, and on January 20, 1810, was 
arrested and sent to Maritua, where, twenty days later, he was 
shot by order of Napoleon. The whole history of this remark- 
able man was concentrated into a single year, but his memory 
lives on every hill throughout the Tyrol. His remains were 
brought from Mantua in 1823, and a statue is erected to his 
memory in the Church of the Franciscans in Innsbruck." The 
population of Mittenwald is only five hundred. In consequence 
of the heat and dust we did not enjoy the drive, and were all of 
us glad to get to the end of our first day's journey. 

21st. — We left at six o'clock; the morning was cold, and 
the early part of our drive was free from dust ; we passed some 



. GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 225 

small towns, amongst which were Sterzing, population two 
thousand, Brenner and Steinach- We dined at the latter place, 
and started again at 2:30 p. m., passing Matrey, a pretty little 
town, and Schonberg, with a population of four thousand, and 
reached Innsbruck at about 5 o'clock. The scenery along the 
road over which we passed to-day is much better than that of 
yesterday, and we felt repaid for our toilsome journey. The hills 
and valleys were covered with beautiful flowers ; the fields 
were green, and the mountains, which towered far up 
among the clouds, were capped with snow. The scenery 
varied much ; some of the mountains were covered with foliage, 
while others were as bare and desolate-looking as the rocks 
of the ocean. The inhabitants of the pass between Botzen and 
Innsbruck are, without doubt, the roughest specimens of civil- 
ized humanity I have ever seen. The females are positively 
hideous ; they all wear men's hats, mostly fur, some with high bell- 
crowns, some flat, and others still cone-shaped, running up very 
high, and having no brims. We saw numbers of them working 
in the fields. They seem stouter, stronger, and more muscular than 
the men. They are all alike uncivil and disobliging ; in passing 
through one of the small towns we met a number of wagons, 
which had stopped in front of an inn ; they blocked up the road 
so that we could not pass, and although a way could have been 
opened by turning one or two of the wagons a little out, the 
drivers refused to do it, and kept us waiting for nearly an hour. 
The vehicles are curious and of the most primitive kind ; all 
have very low wheels, and those for one horse have in the place 
of shafts a crooked pole, which must be very awkward for the 
animal. We noticed a party ploughing with a yoke of oxen. A 
man held the plough — a woman drove the oxen, while another 
led them. We thought labor must be cheap.* The railroad which 

* This reminds me of another sight some traveller describes. He says, 
if I remember rightly, that he met, one morning, an Italian woman driv- 
ing a donkey along a road ; she had a rocca or distaff in her hands, a 
child on her back, a fagot on her head, and a song on her tongue. 

10* 



226 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

is being constructed follows the carriage-road most of the way 
from Bolzen ; for long distances it is cut out of the sides of the 
almost perpendicular mountains. We saw places, where scaffolds 
had to be built for the men to stand on while they were cutting 
out the road, the hills being perpendicular; this method was 
adopted until the men could get a foothold. In other places 
they had to be let down by ropes, which seemed dangerous 
enough. The view as we approached Innsbruck was grand. The 
city is built in one of the loveliest valleys I have ever seen. Its 
situation is said to be more striking than that of any other city in 
Europe. The broad Inn flowing rapidly along, and the snow- 
capped mountains from six to ten thousand feet high, towering ab- 
ruptly up and seeming almost to hang over the city, the beautiful 
valley spread out above and below, and the city itself with its 
pretty grounds, all go to make a picture too lovely ever to be for- 
gotten by one who has looked upon it. 

22d. — After breakfast we remained quiet some time, for the rain 
was falling in torrents ; it passed over about 11 o'clock, when we 
went out. We first visited the principal object of attraction here, 
the Hofkirche, or church of the Franciscans, in which is the tomb 
of Maximilian I., situated in the centre of the church ; it is a 
high marble sarcophagus, on which the effigy of Maximilian,, in 
bronze, appears kneeling ; the statue is by Ludovico del Duca. 
On the sides are twenty-four reliefs in marble representing the 
principal events in the life of the Emperor ; the finest specimens 
are by Alexander Colin, of Mechlin, who executed the first 
twenty, the remaining ones were done by Bernard Abel, of Cologne. 
Number eight, the return of Margaret (Maximilian's dajughter) 
from France, is most exquisitely executed. They are all elabo- 
rately carved, and are considered the very perfection of the art. 
It is also astonishing that they should have been so wonderfully 
preserved — so "delicate is the workmanship. Surrounding this 
monument are twenty-four bronze statues of "heroic size" rep- 
resenting the male and female members of the house of Austria. 
They commence with Clovis, of France, and end with Albert If., 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 227 

Emperor of Austria. They were modelled during the earlier 
portion of the sixteenth century, and are well executed. The artists 
were Gregory, Loffer, and the brothers Godl. On the left as you 
enter the church, is the monument of Andre Hofer, before men- 
tioned. The statue is by Schaller, and represents him as a 
Tyrolese peasant, with a rifle on his shoulder, and a banner in his 
hand. Opposite is a monument erected by the State, to the 
memory of her sons who fell in the war of 1796. There 
is also a marble slab containing the names of the three officers 
of the celebrated Kaiser-jager regiment, killed in 1848. One 
of them was grandson of Andre Hofer. We visited the Silver 
chapel in this church, so called from the statue of the Virgin 
and the altar-piece which are in silver ; this was erected by 
Ferdinand II. The effigy of Ferdinand is here also, and is 
surrounded by m arbles of different colors, and also Mosaics. The 
arms are in Mosaics, and there is also an effigy of his wife, who 
was considered a most beautiful woman. We visited the palace 
and went through the different rooms ; in one of them, the Kaiser- 
Saile, which is a large and magnificent room, or saloon, are por- 
traits of the Emperors of Austria and their wives. We went into 
the church of St. John, which is frescoed and ornamented, the 
organ is remarkably beautiful. On our return to the hotel, stopped 
to see the " golden roof," which projects from the palace, built in 
1425, by Count Frederick of the "Empty purse." After dinner 
I walked over the bridge and passed through some of the streets 
on the opposite side of the river, but saw nothing worthy of note. 

23d, Sunday, — There being no church services in English in 
the place, I read the seventy-first Psalm and the twenty-fifth 
chapter of Acts, and had prayers, and, as is our custom, read to 
Howie from his " Sunday books." 

Not feeling well after dinner, I took quite a long walk, hoping 
by the exercise to get rid of a dull and heavy headache. I passed 
through a number of streets, some of which were wide and well 
built up. I also went through the park, which is extensive and 
kept in good order ; in it is a cafe, which, judging from what I 



228 ' JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

saw, is well patronized. There were numerous small tables in 
front, protected from the sun by shade-trees, and around these 
were crowds of persons of both sexes and all ages, partaking of 
refreshments. 

Innsbruck is the first city we have visited which is entirely Ger- 
man in its character. The people do not appear as cheerful and 
light-hearted as the French and Italians, but seem more intent 
upon business, which, judging from appearances, is the great object 
of their lives. The population is about fifteen thousand. We 
stopped at the Oesterreicheser Hof, where we had very good 
accommodations. 

24:th. — ^We left at 8:35 a. m., for Munich, arrived at Kufstein, 
the frontier town, at 11 o'clock. Our baggage was examined by 
the custom officers, who detained us for half an hour. A run 
of an hour and a half more brought us to Rosenheim junction, 
where we changed cars. We reached Munich at 4 o'clock, and 
stopped at the Hotel " Quartre Saisons." There is some fine 
scenery on the road down the valley of the Inn, but most of the 
route beyond Kufstein is through a level and very poor country, 
and devoid of interest. The weather was bracing in the valley, 
but after reaching the plains it was intensely hot; an hour 
before reaching Munich we had a shower, which made the air 
cool and pleasant. 

25th. — We had an early breakfast and started out with the inten- 
tion of doing a good day's work. We proceeded first to the new 
Pinacothek (picture gallery), in which is a large collection of mod- 
ern paintings. It was refreshing to turn from the Madonnas, Holy 
families, and other Romish pictures by the old masters, to these new 
and fresh-looking works of art. We were particularly pleased 
with the Destruction of Jerusalem, by Kaulbach, a large painting 
with a great number of figures, parts of the city, &c. ; the 
expressions of the different countenances are finely drawn, and we 
could have spent hours in studying them. The Deluge, by Schorn, 
which was left unfinished, is a striking picture. The expressions 
of despair and horror in the countenances are so well delineated, 



GEE AT BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 229 

that one shrinks back and gladly turns from them toward more 
pleasing subjects. A Boy, Dog, and Kite, is an exceedingly pretty 
little picture, as is also the Interior of the Doge's Palace at Venice, 
with a view of the Sea. There are about three hundred pictures 
in the collection, and among them are doubtless many possessing 
far more merit than those named. 

We went next to the old Pinacothek (old gallery), which is 
much larger than the new one, and contains many more paintings, 
all of which are of the old schools. The gallery of paintings 
occupies the first floors and courts, comprising nine halls and 
twenty-three cabinets; the different schools occupying separate 
halls. Many of the paintings have no merit, and are only 
interesting as showing the great improvement in the art. The 
fourth hall contains ninety-five pictures by Eubens, some of 
which have a great reputation ; we noticed particularly the 
Massacre of the Innocents, The Last Judgment, The Eeconcilia- 
tion of the Sabines, and portraits of himself and his first and 
second wives. The sixth hall contains a number of Murillo's pic- 
tures, which, to me at least, were real gems ; the Beggar Children, 
a series of paintings, was, I think, among the best of these. 
In the other saloons are the productions of Correggio, Carlo Dolce, 
Paul Veronese, Guido, Caravaggio, Raphael, and others whose 
names and pictures had become familiar to us during our resi- 
dence in Italy. We had to hurry through so rapidly that we 
could neither examine nor enjoy the pictures. These paintings 
were collected chiefly by Ludwig, late King of Bavaria, and are 
composed partly of the Dusseldorf Gallery, removed here by Max 
Joseph, and the Manheim collection, transferred by the Elector 
Palatine, and the Galleries of Nuremburg, and Bamburg, 
Adasburg, Wallenstein, and Boisseree. The building is very 
large and imposing, the principal fa9ade is ornamented with 
twenty-four statues of the most celebrated painters. We next 
visited the royal stained-glass manufactory, where we saw 
some brilliant paintings on glass. On our way back to the 
hotel, we stopped at the celebrated photographic establishment 



230 JOUBNAL OE A TOUR THEOUGH 

of Joseph Albert, and saw a number of life-size pictures. After 
reaching the hotel and resting awhile, we had lunch and started 
again, to see the churches. In the first we visited, the Metropole, 
is a monument in bronze to one of the former kings or directors 
of Bavaria, with four soldiers, Hfe-size, kneeling at each corner, 
which is well executed, This church is remarkable for the great 
height of its windows, of stained glass, and the wood-carvings of 
its pulpit. In the Jesuits' church there is a fine monument of 
marble to Eugene Beauharnais, erected by his widow, daughter 
of Max Joseph. The Basilica, St. Boniface, finished in 1850, is 
two hundred and sixty-two feet long, one hundred and twenty-five 
feet wide, and eighty feet high ; the interior is divided into five 
naves by sixty-six marble columns ; the walls are ornamented with 
frescoes, a part of which represents the spread of Christianity in 
Germany. 

After dinner we drove out of the city, passing through the 
English gardens, which are four miles in length and half a mile 
wide, composed of woods and meadows, with drives through them. 
On our return, we passed under the Arc de Triomphe, which was 
finished in 1850. It is copied after the Constantine arch at Rome, 
and is crowned by a colossal statue of Bavaria in a triumphal 
car, drawn by two Bavarian lions, in bronze. We saw in the differ- 
ent squares and streets a number of bronze monuments to former 
kings and poets, some of which are well designed and executed. 
We passed the house in which Mozart lived ; a bronze medallion 
likeness of the great composer is placed in the front wall. After 
leaving the family at the hotel, I went with the valet-de-place to 
the Royal Brewery. All of the beer brewed at this immense es- 
tablishment is either drank at the place or carried away in mugs. 
Every person must get his mug, wash it out (barrels of water 
being placed around for this purpose), go up and get it filled, pay 
for it, and then find a seat, or else drink it standing. Each mug, 
which is of stone, holds two and a half pints, and I was informed 
that many persons drank as much as five gallons of beer a day. 
This may seem incredible, but my informant assured me it was 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 231 

tt'ue. The entire space in the building and court was crowded. 
Many persons, I observed, had brought their suppers of sausages, 
meats, puddings, &c., with them, and were partaking of them ; 
some seated at the tables, others standing around the barrels, using 
the heads for tables. The ceilings are very low, the rooms were 
crowded to excess, some eating, some drinking, some smok- 
ing, and all together making an atmosphere in which no one but 
a German could exist for a day. The beer is very light, and a 
pleasant beverage, but why persons should take so much trouble 
to get it is incomprehensible. I believe it is thought to be a little 
better here than elsewhere, and this may be the cause of its popu- 
larity. This opinion is confirmed by one writer, who says that, 
" at the commencement of the season a surprising anxiety is 
everywhere manifested to discover where the best beer is to be had ; 
and when ascertained, the favored beer-shop becomes the constant 
place of resort, till the supply is exhausted." 
^26^^. — "We visited the Glyptothek (sculpture gallery), a large 
square building, with a court in the centre. In it are twelve large 
halls, filled with statuary ; these are arranged in order of the date 
of execution, to each epoch of art a particular hall is devoted. 
We had seen in Italy so much statuary superior to any here ; and 
as our time was limited, we merely passed through the halls, 
glancing at the contents as we went along. The rooms contain 
about six hundred pieces, many of which are broken and other- 
wise defaced. Some of the rooms are handsomely frescoed. We 
went from here to Wimmer's collection of paintings, where we 
saw some beatiful pictures on porcelain, and many oil paintings, 
principally copies. The prices askei for the oil paintings were 
much higher than in Italy, and yet the pictures were not as good. 
We then visited the old Royal Palace, a place well worth 
seeing, and went through its numerous halls. The largest of 
these is the ball-room, one hundred and thirty feet long by forty 
feet wide, and very handsomely decorated. The most attractive 
rooms are the Halls of Beauty — two rooms containing thirty- 
six portraits of the fairest females who have lived and still live 



232 JOUBNAL OF A TOFB THEOUGH 

in Munich. These were painted by order of the King, and 
most of them are of noble families ; but not all, for one is 
the daughter of a tailor, another of a butcher, and a third an ac- 
tress. A portrait of Lola Montez, who has an unenviable repu- 
tation in our country, as well as here, was among these paintings 
at one time, but has been removed. Many of the portraits are 
very beautiful; there is probably no place in the world where 
so many fascinating faces are grouped together. The Hall of 
Banquets contains a number of scenes, representing battles in 
which the Bavarian army was engaged between 1805 and 1815. 
The saloon of Charlemagne has paintings representing scenes in 
his life. The saloon of Frederick Barbarossa the same. Sa- 
loon of Rudolph of Hapsburg, founder of the present House of 
Austria, has paintings illustrating various scenes in his life. 
The salle du trone is a large and handsome room, in white and 
gilt, with a gallery supported by twenty Corinthian marble col- 
umns, between which stand twelve colossal gilt bronze statues, 
representing the different princes of the House of Bavaria, com- 
mencing with OthOj Count Palatine of the Rhine in 1258, and 
ending with Charles XII., King of Sweden. We were permitted 
to go through the apartments of Charles VII., consisting of a re- 
ception-room, dining-room, cabinet of mirrors, and cabinet of 
miniatures and chambers. This suite of apartments is very ele- 
gant. The curtains and bed-coverings are embroidered with 
gold, and cost the modest little sum of three hundred and seven- 
ty-five thousand dollars. Forty persons were employed fifteen 
years in embroidering them. The mirror cabinet has walls of 
mirrors, and some singular reflections are made by the ingenious 
manner in which they are placed. The walls of the miniature 
cabinet are entirely covered with miniatures, and the room is more 
curious than beautiful. 

We descended to the first floor, and were conducted into the 
new palace, which is connected with the old. We passed through 
a grotto, which was formerly used as a summer garden, and was 
ornamented with tropical plants and water-works. It is sadly 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 233 

neglected now. The grotto is decorated with shells, and in the 
centre of the garden is a bronze statue of Perseus with the head 
of Medusa. Sade gathered some wild flowers from the garden. 
The upper part of the palace is occupied by the Royal family. 
Only five rooms on the first floor are shown. All of these con- 
tain paintings or frescoes, illustrative of the Niebelungenlied (one 
of the great poems of Germany), all of which are most admirably 
executed, and, although we could not understand them, none of 
us ever having read the poem, we admired them much. The dif- 
ferent expressions of countenances were powerfully delineated. 
We returned from here to the hotel and had lunch ; after which 
we drove out to the bronze foundry, which is said to be the best 
in the world. We saw some colossal statues which were being 
finished, and the casts of a large number long since executed. 
Amongst them were several of our countrymen — Mason, Lewis, 
Patrick Henry, and Henry Clay — all Virginians ; also the monu- 
ment erected in the Capitol Square in Richmond, and the Vir- 
ginia coat of arms. As I read Sic Semper Tyrannis and saw the 
figure of a female representing Liberty standing with her spear 
over the fallen tyrant, I turned away with a heavy heart, as I 
thought of the present condition of my native State. The de- 
scendants of her Masons, her Henrys, her Clays, and her Wash- 
ingtons no longer sit in her councils, or throw a lustre around 
the bench. The pure ermine is now trailed in the dust, and 
stained and polluted by " that extraordinary man in jurispru- 
dence" — the pettifogging lawyer and time-serving partisan, John 
Underwood. *' The wicked walk on every side when the vilest 
men are exalted." Military subordinates rule over the people, 
trampling the most sacred rights under their feet ; the ignorant 
and uneducated negro, upon whom the Creator has set the 
seal of inferiority, is placed above white men, and every indignity 
which despotism could offer, has been heaped upon them. But 
let us not despair, God rules in the Heavens. Retributive 
justice may be slow, but it is certain, and the authors of these 
great wrongs to civilization, and to constitutional liberty, and 



234 JOUKNAL OF A TOUE THKOUGH 

the time-serving creatures who are carrying them ont, are 
as sure to be swept away and engulphed in the great sea of 
their iniquity, as day is to succeed night. Be patient, and bide 
the time. "The millstones of the gods grind slowly, but they 
grind very fine." 

21th. — After breakfast we drove out to the statue of Bavaria, 
which is situated on an eminence some mile or two from the city. 
Bavaria is represented by a female figure, in bronze, of immense 
dimensions, being sixty-six feet high, standing on a granite base 
thirty feet high composed of seventy- eight tons of metal; cannons 
captured in battles were mostly used in casting it, and it was six 
years in being finished. In the left hand is a wreath of glory, 
while the right grasps a sword adorned with laurels. She is 
clothed with flowing garments, and a fur tunic. The Bavarian 
Lion, of colossal size, stands at her side. Her arms are twenty- 
four and a half feet in length, her nose one foot, and her eyes 
eleven inches. A flight of stone stairs reaches to the top of the 
pedestal, and another of iron goes up into her head. Sade and 
Howie ascended and had a view of the city. Immediately in tlie 
rear of the statue is a large building called the Ruhmeshalle, or 
hall of Glory. The centre front of this is two hundred and four- 
teen feet in length, with a wing running out from each end 
toward the statue, ninety three feet long. There are forty-eight 
pillars of the Doric order, each twenty-four feet high, between 
which are affixed against the wall, busts of many of the prominent 
men of Bavaria. The ends of the two wings are adorned with four 
female figures representing the four provinces of Bavaria— Bava- 
ria, the Palatinate, Franconia, and Swabia. There are other 
ornaments about the building. We drove to Nymphenburg, the 
Royal Palace, about three miles from the city. The road over 
which we passed leads through a grove of pines, and another of 
oaks, and is very much like some of the roads in Virginia. In- 
deed, the whole country between Rosenheim and Munich resem- 
bles that of lower Virginia. The palace has been enlarged from 
time to time, and is an immense pile of buildings without beauty 



GREAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 23l 

or symmetiy. The grounds are extensive and well laid out ir 
lawns, groves, lakes, and fountains. We walked through a part 
of them ; the day was warm, and we M^ere too weary to go through 
the palace. We returned by an avenue with linden trees on each 
side, which would be a pleasant drive if the road were good. 

During our travels we have met some curious specimens of our 
countrymen and countrywomen, and heard some very curious 
things said by them. While at the Table d'Hote to-day we 
were all amused with the remarks and conversations of those 
about us. An American asked her friend who sat opposite her 
what dish was being passed ? to which he answered, " You wouldn't 
like it. Sail, it ain't good." After this she said to him in a startled 
manner, "Are those your feet?" to which he replied "Yes." 
" Well, good land," exclaimed she, *' I wonder where they'd be, if I 
wan't here ; I suppose they'd be in the next street! " Nothing 
more was heard until the pastry was passed, when this same person 
found it difficult to manage a strawberry tart. Her husband came 
to her rescue, however, and after he had carved it, she exclaimed 
with amazement, *' How much strength you've got! I've tried, 
with all my might and main, and couldn't stick my fork through 
the plaguy thing." 

2Sth. — We left Munich in the 7:45 a. m. train, and arrived 
at Salzburg at about noon. We had excellent accommodations 
at the Hotel d'Enrope, near the station. The hotel is a new 
and elegant building, beautifully situated outside of the town, 
surrounded by handsomely laid out grounds, and is better furnished 
than any, hotel we have stopped at. The views from it are very 
good. The river meandering through the valley, the green hills 
and tall mountains, the sides and summits of which are still white 
with snow, the town spread out in front, and the old castle frown- 
ing from its lofty position, give a great variety to the scenery. 
Our ride as far as Rosenheim was over the same road we passed 
in going to Munich, The scenery between Rosenheim and Salz- 
burg is very diversified. The road passes a greater part of the 
way through an elevated valley, bordered by the snow- covered 



236 JOURNAL OP A TOUR THROUGH 

Alps, with pretty little towns scattered over it, and the valley is 
wqU cultivated. We felt a change in the temperature soon after 
leaving Rosenheim. It was a very agreeable one to us, after the 
heat of Munich. I noticed heaps of peat piled up along the road, 
the first I had seen since leaving Ireland. 

After resting and partaking of a good dinner we procured a 
carriage and drove to a park, about three miles distant. "We 
walked through the grounds, and then we drove to the palace 
of Helbrunn. The water-works are the principal attraction of the 
place, and they are really novel and curious. Besides numerous 
grottoes, small lakes, figures of various animals, with water 
shooting from their mouths, tongues, noses and eyes, and innu- 
merable jets, which throw out water in every direction and shape. 
There is a large space in which are several hundred figures of 
men, women, and animals, engaged at various kinds of labor; 
almost every mechanical trade is represented. These are all put 
in motion by water, and move around, passing in and out of 
doors, rolling wheelbarrows, driving carts, masons ascending 
ladders, with bricks and mortar, blacksmiths hammering on anvils, 
carpenters raising and nailing boards, and a hundred other very 
ingenious things. Howie was particularly amused, and remarked 
with emphasis. Papa, I shall never forget this. On our return we 
were overtaken by one of those storms which come up so suddenly 
in mountainous regions. We had a covered carriage and water- 
proof cloaks, and so managed* to keep dry. 

29th. — After breakfast we drove to the foot of the hill on which 
the old castle of Hohensalzburg stands. We started up on foot ; 
about half of the ascent is by steps ; the remainder is a steep 
road or path. May, after proceeding about half the distance, 
became very much fatigued and determined to stop at a house and 
await our return. 

Sade, Howie, and I pushed on, and were soon inside the walls. 
We went to the top of the building where some of the old rooms 
are still preserved. Among others was the torture chamber in 
which multitudes of Protestants suffered for their religion. The 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 237 

racks, pullies, and other contrivances for torture, still remain. The 
castle was built in the eleventh century, and served as a residence 
and stronghold for its warlike bishops. The view from the top 
embraces a large area, and is as beautiful as it is varied. The 
castle is now used as barracks. We passed through the old cham- 
bers and dining saloon, which are far from being elegant. 

Salzburg is situated on the Salza, which empties into the Inn. 
The town itself is gloomy, but its situation is the most beau- 
tiful in Germany. Numerous excursions can be made from it, 
many of which are said to be as adventurous as they are pleas- 
ant. We regretted that we could not spare the time to go on 
some of them. The present population is about nineteen thou- 
sand. 

We left at 12:45 for Vienna, arriving at 8:30 p. m. After 
some little delay at the depot, we got our baggage on carriages 
(there are no porters or omnibuses from the hotels here), and drove 
to the Hotel Archduke Charles, where we had very poor accom- 
modations and high charges. The country through which we 
passed is not very interesting. The houses, roads, &c., look more 
like those in our own country than any we have yet seen. The 
police arrangements of the road are excellent ; in many places the 
men were stationed only two minutes apart. The houses for the 
flagmen along the road are very near each other. I could see no 
necessity for the men being in such close proximity. As to this, 
I inquired of the guard or conductor, but he could not enlighten 
me on the subject. 

30^^, Sunday. — I was very unwell in the morning, but went 
with the family to church, at the English embassy. The room 
was close and I was so uncomfortable that I had to go out into an 
anteroom. The sermon was good. In the afternoon I walked 
out with Howie, hoping to get rid of the headache. We had a 
long walk and returned quite used up. We all retired early. 



238 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 



JULY. 

1st. — Our first visit this morning was to the Cathedral, built in 
the Gothic style, and of the following dimensions ; three hundred 
and fifty feet in length, by two hundred and twenty feet in width, 
height to the top of the spire four hundred and fifty feet. It has 
a bell, weighing twenty tons, which was cast out of one hun- 
dred and eighty pieces of cannon captured from the Turks. In 
the interior are some fine carvings, and also some which are 
very good on the exterior. There are some beautiful pillars 
in it. Then we went to the Augustine Church. In it is a 
monument to the Archduchess Christina, by Canova, and said 
to be his masterpiece. It is certainly a grand specimen of 
sculpture. There are several other monuments to distinguished 
persons, among which is one to Leopold II. The hearts of the 
Imperial family, in silver urns, are placed here, among them those 
of Maria Theresa and Napoleon II. We next went to the Impe- 
rial Royal Picture Gallery, Upper Belvedere, which contains a 
large collection of ancient and modern paintings of the different 
schools. We saw here ' ' The Woman taken in Adultery," by 
Padovanino ; " The Death of Joseph," by Carlo Maratta ; 
" Joseph Warned in a Dream to flee into Egypt," by Antonio 
Rafiaello Mengs — the faces of the two angels in this picture have 
exceeding beauty; "The Madonna and Child," with angels on 
each side, by same artist; "The Annunciation," a very large 
picture, by the same ; and " Madonna and Child," by Carlo 
Dolce. There are some of Vandyke's pictures, and Rubens is 
largely represented. In the Spanish collection are several good 
pictures by Velasquez. Among the modern ones were some fine 
landscapes. We returned to the hotel, and after dinner, drove 
through a number of the principal streets. The new ones are 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 239 

copied after the boulevards of Paris, and are quite equal to thera 
in architectural design and execution. The new opera-house is a 
magnificent structure. One of the boulevards extends around the 
city, occupying the site of the old city walls. A part of it is 
planted on each side with trees which form a shady promenade as 
well as drive. There are some attractive parks and gardens in 
and near to the city, and in pleasant weather these are generally 
crowded with people. We drove to the Prater, a park just out- 
side of the city. A broad avenue, shaded by a row of trees on 
each side, passes through it. On one side are numerous cafes, 
with an almost innumerable number of tables arranged in front 
and around them. These were surrounded by hundreds of per- 
sons of all ages, sexes, and conditions, partaking of coffee, beer, 
and ices. Places were arranged for music, and at one of them a 
military band was playing ; we stopped our carriage to hear the 
music and look on, and while waiting our valet brought us a mug 
of beer and some ice-cream, which we found both palatable and 
refreshing. We were quite amused at a. perfect specimen, in dia- 
lect and appearance, of a genuine down-east Yankee, who stood 
near our carriage, with botb hands extended down to the lower 
extremities of his pantaloon-pockets, and his head thrown a little 
back. He was looking on curiously at the scene in front of him, 
but on hearing us speaking in English he turned toward us, and 
his sharp and inquisitive glance seemed to say •' You are from 
America, I guess ; haven't been long over here "? goin' to Berlin or 
Munich ? rather think you'd better go North, for its gettin' con- 
siderable warm in these parts! Don't often have it like this in 
Bosting ! " He seemed anxious to attract our attention, and 
elicit some remark which would lead to a conversation, and was 
evidently disappointed when we drove off. After driving some 
distance up the avenue, we returned to the hotel. 

2d. — I was quite sick last night, and feeling no better this 
morning called in a physician. May and Sade went out to do 
some shopping. Late in the afternoon we drove out to Schon- 
brunn, the favorite summer residence of the Emperor, a few miles 



240 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

outside of the city. The palace is very richly finished and 
furnished, exhibiting a very high degree of taste. Three of the 
rooms have rare landscapes, by Salvator Rosa, set in the walls. 
There are many other paintings in the various rooms, one " The 
Founding of the Order of St. Stephen, by Maria Theresa," in which 
are a great number of figures (all said to be portraits), attracted 
our particular attention. In another room was a set of four large 
pictures, representing the marriage of Joseph II., son of Maria 
Theresa, to Isabella of Parma. They are in regular course : their 
Entry into Vienna ; the Grand Dinner ; the Supper ; and the 
Grand Concert. We went through the rooms which were occupied 
by Napoleon L, in 1809. In one of these, his son. Napoleon II., 
died in 1832, on the same bed on which his father had slept. There 
are many curious and beautiful things in the various apartments, 
and the palace altogether is exceedingly rich and attractive. The 
gardens and grounds in the rear of the palace are extensive and 
beautiful. A large lawn, covered with flowers, tastefully laid out, 
runs for some distance back to a fountain adorned with statues. 
Avenues run out in different directions from this lawn, and are 
bordered with linden and other trees, which form a perfect hedge 
of great height, so evenly trimmed as to look like a wall, and 
forming arches as nearly perfect as could be made by masonry. In 
many places niches are cut and statuary placed in them. A hill 
rises just behind the fountain, and on its summit is the Glorietta 
Temple, a very imposing edifice of brick and stucco. We went 
up to the top, and had a glorious view of the palace, grounds, 
city, and the surrounding country. Attached to the grounds are an 
extensive botanical garden and menagerie. We did not visit 
these, as I had already overtasked my strength. These grounds 
are always open to the public. The Emperor had left the palace 
only this morning to meet his wife at Salzburg, on her return 
from Munich. It was but yesterday that he received the intelli- 
gence of the murder of his brother Maximilian. Thus does death 
still knock at the gates of palaces. 

3d. — We went this morning to the Imperial library, ' which 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 241 

contains three hundred and fifty thousand volumes, and a large 
collection of manuscripts. The main hall is two hundred and forty 
feet long, of irregular width, averaging about fifty feet, with 
ceilings sixty feet high. Among the numerous pieces of art in 
it is a statue of Charles VI., who first threw it open to the public. 
We saw here the manuscript of " Tasso's Jerusalem Delivered." 
We drove to the cabinet of minerals, which is, I think, the richest 
collection I have yet seen. I was too unwell to accomplish more 
than to walk through and take a general view, after which I went 
out into the fresh air, leaving May and Sade to examine the 
minerals more carefully. We saw a large collection of meteoric 
stones, among which was one weighing several hundred pounds. 
This was found in Hungary last year. We also saw here a large 
bouquet formed of precious stones. This was a present from 
Maria Theresa. We then went to the summer palace of Prince 
Liechtenstein, where we saw a large collection of paintings : Venus 
and Cupid, by Correggio ; the Holy Family, by Raphael ; the same 
by A. del Sarto ; David with Head of Goliath, by H. Terrabosco ; 
Virtue and Vice ; and a Bishop blessing Children, by M. Cinge- 
aroti. The last two are upward of three hundred years old, and 
the coloring is as fresh as if just painted. The Finding of Moses 
attracted our particular notice. Many of the pictures are 
decidedly objectionable, and show a want of both good taste and 
good morals. I had another visit to-day from the physician, Dr. 
Schmerling, who charges strangers twenty francs a visit, while 
citizens are charged only five francs. He murders the Queen's 
English with as little ceremony as he probably does his patients. 
Ath. — We had an early breakfast, and drove out to the Im- 
perial Arsenal and went through the museum, where we saw a 
collection of ancient armor, ancient and modern arms, with 
many other curious things. Some of the armor is inlaid with 
gold We saw the uniforms of Sobieski and Hanau^ the Ben 
Butler of Austria, the armor worn by John Sobieski, King of 
Poland, at the time he defeated and drove the Mahometan army, 
commanded by the Grand Vizier Kara Mustapha, from Vienna, 

11 



242 JOUENAIi OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

which they had besieged with an immense army, and also the 
sword of Mustapha. On his return, the Sultan had him strangled 
for failing to capture Vienna ; a coat of buckskin which belonged 
to Gustavus Adolphus, and was worn by him at the battle of 
Lutzen. The rooms have beautiful frescoes, and on each side of 
those on the second story are two very large rooms in which are 
upward of two hundred thousand stand of arms all ready for use. 
Within the walls of the building are fortified barracks capable of 
accommodating ten thousand soldiers, and also manufactories of all 
kinds of weapons. We went through some of these in which 
large numbers of men were employed, some boring and finishing 
off cannons of iron, steel, and brass, others making carriages and 
small arms ; we saw large numbers of well-polished cannons, just 
finished. The building was erected in 1849. 

Owing to our limited time, we shall leave Vienna without vis- 
iting and seeing a great many places and things, which, under 
other circumstances, we would not have failed to see. Vienna is 
situated on a plain on the south bank of the Danube, and has a 
population of five hundred and fifty thousand. In the old part of 
the city the streets are narrow, but in the new they are wide and 
superbly built up ; it is better improved than any city we have 
yet visited, except Paris, and is the next city, in point of beauty, 
to the French capital. Its origin dates very far back, and it is 
thought to occupy the site of the Roman station, Vindobona, where 
the emperor Marcus Aurelius died. 

We left at 1:30 P. m. for Prague, passing over a country mostly 
level and uninteresting, nearly the whole of which was under cul- 
tivation ; in many places fields of wheat extended as far as the 
eye could reach. The laborers generally worked together in large 
numbers, sometimes as many as a hundred all moving along the 
rows in line as regularly as files of soldiers marching ; indeed, when 
we first saw them in the distance, we mistook them for soldiers 
drilling. Several hours before reaching Prague, the road strikes a 
little river and follows it through deep defiles and narrow valleys, 
when it suddenly comes out into a level country again. The 



GKEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 243 

towns and villages along the route are by no means attractive in 
their appearance ; the houses, as a general thing, are of an infe- 
rior class ; many of them in the suburbs are nothing but huts. 
We reached Prague at 10:15 p. m., and stopped at the Hotel 
d'Angleterre, which proved to be a very indifferent house. 

^th. — The morning was unpleasant and we had to go out in a 
covered carriage, which, to sight-seers, is always unpleasant, as it 
obstructs the view and prevents them from getting a correct idea 
of the streets through which they pass. After driving through 
some of the principal streets, we passed over the old stone bridge, 
which crosses the river Moldau. It was begun in the fourteenth 
and finished in the sixteenth century ; its sides are adorned with 
twenty-eight statues of saints, and at each end is a high tower. 
Near the centre is the bronze statue of St, John Neporiiuk, who 
was drowned in the river by order of the king Wencislaus, in con- 
sequence of his refusing to divulge the secrets of the queen, whose 
confessor he was. After crossing, we drove past several old pal- 
aces, all having some historic fame which we had not time to 
inquire into. We also passed the Loretto chapel and went through 
a library belonging to an old monastery, in which was a fine col- 
lection of books, manuscripts, minerals, &c. We went to the 
Hradschin, or Palace on the Hill, once the residence of the old 
Bohemian kings. We were admitted only into a few rooms ; one 
of these was the throne room, in which the coronations took place, 
and another the room from which the imperial commissioners and 
their secretary, who had been sent thither with the most intolerant 
edicts against the Bohemian protestants, were thrown through tl.e 
windows by the deputies of the kingdom. This occurred in 1618, 
and was the commencement of the Thirty years' war, which secured 
the liberties of Germany. On the lawn below, two obelisks mark 
the spot where the commissioners fell. We then proceeded to the 
cathedral of St. Vitus, which is connected with the palace. It 
was begun in 1340 and finished in 1486. It possesses the silver 
shrine of St. John Nepomuk, weighing three thousand eight 
hundred pounds ; his body is encased in silver and crystal. 



244 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

There is also an elaborately finished monument of white marble, 
erected by Rodolph II., as a tomb for himself and other Bohemian 
kings, and another plain tomb to Ottocar, who was killed in battle 
by Rodolph of Hapsburg. In a separate chapel is a silver tomb 
to St. Wenzel, patron saint of Bohemia, who was killed by his 
brother in the tenth century ; his statue, armor, and sword, are 
in the chapel. " The walls of this room are incrusted with mosaic 
of fine stones, some of which are in the rough unfinished state, 
and are unlike any others we have seen. There are numerous 
relics in this church, among which are the bones of Abraham, 
Isaac, and Jacob (so called) ; a lack of faith alone prevented us 
from appreciating these wonders ; it is possible that these were 
the bones of modern Jews who were named after the three patri- 
archs of old. 

In consequence of the rain, we returned to the hotel. After 
dinner I walked through a number of the streets, but was not very • 
favorably impressed with their general appearance. 

Prague cannot be termed a pleasant city ; the streets are 
wide, and in the new part there are some good buildings. Its 
situation, however, which is on both sides of the river Moldau, 
a tributary to the Elbe, is very picturesque, and its surround- 
ings are beautiful. It is a manufacturing place and one of con- 
siderable trade ; Bohemian glass and jewelry of garnets, seem to 
be its specialties. Its present population is about one hundred 
and fifty thousand. 

Qth. We left at 8:30 o'clock a. m. for Dresden, passing over 

a much more pleasant country than that between Vienna and 
Prague. I engaged in conversation with a German gentleman 
who occupied the car with us, and learned that he was from New 
Orleans, and had fought through the Confederate war under 
Beauregard, Bragg, and Johnson. He had informed himself well 
on the Prussian campaign of last year, and traced out on a map 
he had the different routes over which the armies marched, and the 
places where the battles were fought. We passed the old and 
strong castle of Koenigstein, which, it is said, has never been 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTDTENT. 245 

taken. The crown jewels, treasure, &c., were always sent here in 
former times when the capital was in danger from an enemy. 
We reached Dresden at 2:30 o'clock p. m., and went to the 
Hotel Bellevue, which had been recommended to us ; being 
unable to get rooms we went to the Saxe, less favorably situated, 
but had good rooms and moderately good accommodations. 
After dinner we walked through some of the principal thorough- 
fares, and went into a public garden which was prettily laid cut 
in walks and lawns and well shaded. 

1th, Sunday. — May was not well this morning and remained at 
home. Sade, Howie, and I went to the English and American 
church, and heard a good sermon from James i. 27. Among 
other things the minister referred to the rites of the Jewish dis- 
pensation as being necessary in the infancy and childhood of the 
church, and said it was a subject worthy of inquiry and discus- 
sion at the present time, when to the rites of the gospel dispen- 
sation some of the churches attached so much importance. He 
argued that the church had passed from its childhood at the 
coming of Christ, and these rites and ceremonies were no longer 
necessary. James, he said, had summed up the whole in that 
one verse, "Pure (ritualism) religion, and undefiled before God 
and the Father is this, to visit the fatherless and the widows in 
their affliction, and to keep himself unspotted from the world." 
A constant external performance of our duties to our fellow-men, 
and an unceasing watchfulness over our hearts, would be more 
pleasing to God than the observances of rites and ceremonies. 
After dinner I took a stroll through the city, partly to observe 
the difference between the manner in which the Sabbath is 
observed in Catholic. and nominalli/ Protestant countries on the 
continent. As a rule, the places of business were closed. The 
cafes, beer saloons, and gardens were open, and quite as crowded 
as similar places in Catholic countries.* In some, bands of music 

* I am well aware that some of what are called Protestant cities in 
Europe contain a good many inhabitants who are either virtually or pro- 



246 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

were playing, and in one of the public squares which I reached 
by following the crowds going thither, was a number of booths 
in which were various articles of merchandise being disposed of 
in small quantities by lottery. All present seemed eager to invest, 
and the proprietors were doing a brisk business. These are a 
part of the "innocent amusements" which our " German fellow- 
citizens" in New York and other of our large cities are so desirous 
to introduce as " Sunday recreations," and as long as they receive 
aid and support from a venal press, and selfish and unprincipled 
politicians, who have no nobler aims and higher purposes in life 
than pecuniary gain and personal aggrandizement, the effort will 
be continued. " Eternal vigilance" is the price of religious and 
moral as well as civil liberty, and unless our people act upon this 
maxim these and other European customs will come in upon us, 
and destroy for ever the quietude of the American Sunday. 

8^^. — Our first visit was of course to the celebrated Dresden 
gallery. This is among the finest collection of paintings in 
Europe, and yet I was disappointed. Perhaps I expected too 
much ; probably I had not a sufficiently cultivated taste to appre- 
ciate pictures. I think but few persons have. There was one 



fessedly Catholics. We may fairly number among the virtual Catholics 
all those who, like the old Lutherans, have retained not a little of the 
Koman rites and creed, while they do not exemplify the power of 
godliness in their daily life. The Dresden Sunday is disturbed partly 
by these and partly by the multitude of Catholics, who hold this day 
less sacred than they do some others. To test the effect of Protestantism 
on morals and Sabbath observance, we must compare som^ parts of the 
United States and England with Spain and Italy. Then the contrast 
will be found to be very marked. Or compare any strictly Protestant 
city with any prurely Catholic city, as Koger Ascham did London with 
Venice in the sixteenth century. In nine days' stay at Venice he said he 
saw more liberty to sin than in London he had ever heard of in nine 
years. The reason he gives for this state of things is commended to the 
present advocates of Eitualism ; "making ceremonies to delight the eye, 
and vain sounds to please the ear, does quite thrust out of the churches 
all service of God in spirit and in truth." 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 247 

work, however, which came fully up to my expectations, namely, 
Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto (so called after Pope Sextus, 
whose portrait is in it) ; it is the most beautiful picture of that 
subject which I ever have seen, or probably ever shall see. I 
cannot conceive it possible that any mortal could produce on 
canvas any thing more exquisitely beautiful than some of the 
faces in this picture. There are four prominent figures in it : the 
Madonna and Child rising above the earth on a cloud ; Pope 
Sextus on his knees gazing up at them, at her right, and St. 
Barbara kneeling on her left. At tlie base of the picture are 
the heads of two angel boys with their eyes upturned toward 
the Madonna. Between the two green curtains which form the 
background, are innumerable heads of cherubims. The faces of 
the Madonna and the two angels are of the very highest types of 
beauty. That of the Madonna looks as if a sinful thought had 
never passed through her mind, to mar the serene and heavenly 
expression which it wears. This picture has been copied more 
frequently than has any other of Raphael's. We often meet with 
engravings of it in America. It is, properly speaking, a trans- 
figuration of the Mother of Christ, and it is one proof of Raphael's 
Mariolatry that he should have painted it before he did his last 
work, the transfiguration of Christ himself. The picture has a 
room devoted exclusively to it ; it cost forty thousand dollars. At 
the other end of the suite of rooms is what is termed Hans Hol- 
bein's masterpiece, which also has a room assigned it. It repre- 
sents the family of Jacob Meyer. A few other pictures have 
recently been hung around it. We see in our travels a good many 
things which we cannot comprehend, nor have satisfactorily 
explained, and this is one of them : why such a picture should 
have so much prominence given to it! was a wonder to us all ; 
and if this picture possesses the merit which is claimed for it, 
then T know that my appreciation of pictures is woefully at fault. 
There are pictures of almost every school, age, and degree of 
merit in this collection. Owing to the warm weather and poor 
health, I could not examine them in a satisfactory manner, and in 



248 JOUKNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

my reference to them I shall have to devote far less space than to 
many of the smaller and inferior galleries, and other places and 
things of much less interest. Correggio, Titian, Caravaggio, Carlo 
Dolce, Paul Veronese, Andrea del Sarto, and other Italian mas- 
ters are well represented. Rubens has more than his share ; but 
after looking at Eaphael's Madonna, one turns away in disgust 
from the coarse and indecent subjects of Rubens. I noticed two 
of Rembrandt's pictures which pleased me much. One a por- 
trait of his wife, and the other of himself with his wife sitting on 
his knees. The Sacrifice of Abraham, by del Sarto, and St. 
Cecilia Playing on the Organ, are good pictures. I saw two land- 
scapes by my favorite, Claude Loraine, one of which was a gem, 
also a Madonna, by Murillo, another favorite. Another cele- 
brated picture here is the Virgin and Child in the Manger, known 
by the name of La Notte, by Correggio, which critics, I believe, 
pronounce to be the best of his works. Again my appreciation 
was at fault, for my uncultivated eye could discern no traces of 
beauty in it. This picture and that of Holbein, before mentioned, 
probably owe their reputation, not to the beauty or grandeur of 
the figures depicted, but to their being good examples of artistic 
difficulties overcome. The former is, I fancy, one of the best 
specimens of the Pre-Raphaelite style, or of a sort of photographic 
fidelity to nature. The latter illustrates the power of chiaroscuro 
to symbolize. It represents a supernatural light irradiating from 
the celestial child and illuminating the face of the Virgin Mother, 
who bends fondly over her infant undazzled, while another female 
draws back, veiling her eyes with her hand, as if unable to endure 
the radiance. Both pictures were executed in the spirit and 
interest of Mary-worship. The Tribute Money, by Titian, is 
considered one of the gems of the gallery. I did not like the face 
of the Saviour. There is an unusually large number of small 
pictures, some of which are little gems, but to have examined 
these in detail would have required many days. 

The pictures occupy six large saloons, with an octagonal 
room in the centre, in which are tapestries ; twenty-seven 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 249 

small rooms, all on the second floor ; and sixteen rooms on the 
third floor. There are some good modern pictures in these last. 
There are seven or eight rooms on the ground floor devoted to 
Pastels, some of which are excellent ; among them the celebrated 
chocolate girl, La Belle Chocolatiere, who was a waitress in a 
cafe at Vienna, and, in consequence of her great beauty, married 
into one of the noble families. There are some splendid views of 
Venice, Verona, Dresden, and other cities, contained in three 
rooms adjoining the last named. 

^th. — Our visit this morning was to the " Green Vault." This 
and the Gallery are the two lions of Dresden. It is on the ground 
floor of the Eoyal Palace, and comprises eight rooms. They were 
formerly hung in green, hence the name. A description of the con- 
tents of these rooms would make a large book, and it would be a 
very instructive one too. Here are carvings of a great variety of 
articles, in ivory ; articles for the tables, made of every kind of 
metal, from tin to gold, and precious stones, in every con- 
ceivable shape. Some have machinery to move them around the 
table, others, while moving around, shoot arrows from bows. 
Here, also, are a chimney-piece, made of china and set with pre- 
cious stones ; gold and silver plate in great variety and quantity ; 
and the regalia used at the coronation of Frederick Augustus H., 
King of Poland and Elector of Saxony. On reaching the eighth 
room the senses are bewildered at the splendor of its contents. 
Diamonds, crowns, sceptres, chains, and collars, orders of the 
Garter, Golden Fleece, and Polish Eagle ; coat buttons, diamonds 
weighing from forty to fifty carets (white, green, pink, and yel- 
low) ; the whole gala-dress of the Elector of Saxony, consisting 
of his coat and vest buttons, epaulette buttons, sword-hilt, scab- 
bard and collar, all of diamonds ; numerous rings of great value, 
among them are two which belonged to Martin Luther. One of 
the greatest curiosities in this room is the Court of the Great 
Mogul, by Dinglenger, the jeweller to the Court of Dresden ; 
there are in it one hundred and thirty eight figures of pure gold, 
enamelled, all of them carved in the most delicate and finished 

11* 



250 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

manner. It was six years in making, and cost forty-five thousand 
dollars. We next went to a hall where various kinds of musical 
instruments are exhibited by the manufacturers, nearly all of 
which were played by machinery. These imitated a variety of 
instruments, and some of them an entire band ; they were more 
curious than pleasing. We remained about half an hour, and on 
leaving, were informed that we had to pay seven and a half francs. 
I thought of the Indian, who rowed persons over to a meeting 
on an island for nothing, but, after getting them there, charged 
a dollar each for taking them back. Messrs. Kaufmann & Son 
is the name of the firm which plays this nice little German game. 
Let Barnum look out for his laurels. 

We went to the Military Museum, in which is a large collec- 
tion and a great variety of armor and arms, very badly arranged. 
Some of the armor is of the richest description, as are also the 
trappings of the horses, many of which are covered with precious 
stones. Some of the old firearms are very curious. I saw among 
them a five-shooter pistol very much like Colt's, except the locks. 
This was nearly four hundred years old. Among the numerous 
relics in the galleries is a Turkish tent, captured from the Turks 
at the siege of Vienna. It is large, and very elaborately worked.- 
There is also a saddle which belonged to Napoleon I., the boots 
which he wore at the battle of Dresden, and the shoes worn at 
his coronation. In the afternoon we drove to a studio to ex- 
amine some paintings ; but we found nothing but copies, and the 
prices asked were much above those in Italy for pictures of the 
same merit. 

lOih. — We spent a part of the morning in selecting some Gar- 
net jewelry, on an order for some friends. We found the assort- 
ment much smaller, and the prices higher than in Prague, but 
succeded in getting what we wanted. The weather has been un- 
comfortably cool since our arrival here, and it has rained almost 
every day. 

Dresden, the capital of Saxony, is situated on both sides of the 
Elbe. The two parts of the city are connected by a large stone 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 251 

bridge one thousand four hundred feet long. This bridge was 
built from the proceeds of the sale of dispensations from the Pope 
for eating eggs and butter during Lent. I was as much disap- 
pointed with Dresden as I was with Florence : it is by no means 
a pleasant town ; the streets are generally crooked and irregular ; 
some, however, are wide and handsomely built up. The inhabi- 
tants, as in every place we have visited on the continent, live 
mostly in apartments; few families occupy entire houses. Many 
of the residences have yards attached to them, but they are the 
common property of the occupants, and are neither private nor 
pleasant. We did not visit any of the churches, which, with one 
exception, are Protestant, and they are not kept open except dur- 
ing services ; the Catholic church was undergoing repairs and 
we could not get into that. The religion of the country is Prot- 
estant, but the royal family is Catholic ; judging from out- 
ward appearances, the state of morals is no better than in Catho- 
lic countries ; the religion is, in fact, reformed not regenerated, 
Dresden has the reputation of being a desirable place of residence, 
and a great many English and American families are living here ; 
of course no correct idea can be formed of a place by a few 
days' stay in it. From what we have seen, there are many other 
cities which we have visited, that, as places of residence, I should 
greatly prefer to Dresden. It has also the reputation of being a 
cheap place, but we did not find it so ; hotel charges are about the 
same as at most of the other cities we have visited. Carriages 
here are as high again as at Vienna ; gentlemen's clothing is more 
expensive than at Rome or Florence ; admission fees to public 
places more than double the price asked anywhere else. I mention 
these things becau.se we had occasion to learn the prices of them, 
and the inference is that they are not exceptions ; other things are, 
we conclude, proportionately dear. Those who occupy small 
apartments near the tops of houses can, and do live cheap, and 
a great number of persons who wish to economize live in this way. 
It is this class who have given Dresden the reputation of being a 
cheap city. The population is about ninety-five thousand. 



252 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

llif^. — We left Dresden at 10 a. m., for Berlin, in a cold rain 
storm. The clouds broke in the afternoon, and it became pleas- 
ant. We were in a slow train, and did not reach the Prussian 
capitol until 5 p. m. The country over which we passed is 
mostly flat and tame, except the pine forests. When a boy, I 
loved these pine forests ; their deep wailings, as the winds swept 
over themin the autumn, and their constant plaintive murmurings, 
were mournful melodies which always drew me nearer to them ; for 
they were in accord with my feelings, and I loved to sit and watch 
their tall heads bowing before the blast, and then rising up sol- 
emnly and majestically like great souls who have been borne down 
by the devastating storm, but not crushed. We passed numerous 
small towns along the route, but could get only imperfect views of 
them from the cars. Wheat and potatoes, were the principal prod- 
ucts of the country. We stopped at the Hotel de Rome. 

12th. — Our first visit after breakfast was to a private gallery, 
situated on the street unter der Linden. It contains a small but 
well-selected collection of modern paintings, among which were 
some beautiful landscapes and views of cities. The Martyrdom of 
John Huss, a very large picture, attracted much attention. I was 
more pleased with some of the smaller ones. Job, his Wife, 
and his Three Friends, and Hagar in the Wilderness, are good 
pictures. The gems were among the subjects first referred to. 
The fact that we had no catalogue, and that many of the subjects 
were unknown to us, detracted very much from their interest. 

We went to the building in which are the museum of antiqui- 
ties, on the first floor, the sculpture gallery on the second floor, 
and the picture gallery on the third floor. The edifice, in point 
of architectural beauty and adaptation to the purposes for which 
it was built, is far in advance of any similar building we have 
seen. With its grand stairway, superb marble columns, beauti- 
fully-arched ceilings, and unrivalled frescoes, a general effect is 
produced which strikes the beholder as magnificent in the extreme. 
We first went to the picture gallery, in which is a large collec- 
tion of paintings of the various schools — Dutch, Flemish, Italian, 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 253 

French, and Spanish, distributed in forty rooms. The collection 
is much inferior to those of the other galleries we have visited. 
The Bear Hunt, and numerous animals, by Snyders, are fine ; 
there were some other good pictures, but in consequence of my 
not feeling at all well, I could not examine them with any degree 
of interest, and shall, much to my regret, have to pass them with- 
out further notice. 

We descended into the sculpture rooms where we saw a great 
variety of casts of statues, and a number of old and broken 
Roman statuary, a bronze statue. The Boy Praying, a faultless 
work of art (found in the bed of the Tiber) ; Napoleon I. , in mar- 
ble ; his son. Napoleon II., in bronze ; Canova, Hebe, and numerous 
other pieces. The frescoes in these rooms are excellent ; Athens 
and other places in Greece, comprise a part of the subjects. 
We descended still lower into the museum of antiquities and curi- 
osities from Egypt and other quarters of the globe ; these collec- 
tions are so large, that days could be profitably spent in looking 
through them. We saw a great variety of novel and strange 
things, and regretted that we had not more time to spend among 
them. I omitted to mention that we visited a room here in which 
are kept the orders and decorations of Napoleon I. , presented by 
the different sovereigns of Europe, and also his hat, all of which 
were found in his carriage, at Waterloo ; the hat of Blucher ; also 
a wax figure of Frederick the Great, with numerous articles 
belonging to him. We also saw a chair which belonged to Luther. 
Without thinking, I seated myself in it, but was immediately 
reminded that such liberties .were not allowed. 

Adjoining this room is another containing a large collection of 
curious glass and china-ware. On our return to the hotel we 
saw in front of the museum the enormous granite vase, sixty-six 
feet in circumference ; it is the largest vase in the world. We 
also saw the bronze statue of the Amazon, by Kiss, which stands 
at the entrance of the museum, and the colossal statue of Fred- 
erick the Great, which is said to be one of the best in Europe. 
It stands on a granite pedestal twenty feet high, the sides of which 



254 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

are covered with bronze groups, life size, of the leading generals 
and statesmen of the seven years' war, in all thirty-one persons. 
At. the corners are figures of Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and 
Temperance, and between these are bass-reliefs representing differ- 
ent periods of the life of Frederick ; the equestrian statue is 
seventeen feet high, and is unquestionably a great work of art. 

After dinner we drove through some of the streets, and out- 
side of the city to the public garden, around which are fine 
avenues for driving. On one side of the avenues is a large body 
of woods, and many elegant residences with grounds well laid 
out ; and gardens filled with flowers are on the other side. The 
whole country hereabout is flat, and in many places are pools of 
stagnant water which must make it insalubrious. Cafes are seen 
here and there with their hundreds of chairs scattered around, 
many of which were occupied by "beer-drinking Germans" of 
both sexes. In going out of the city we passed through the 
Brandenburg gate, over which is a triumphal arch erected in 
1789 ; it is a copy of the Propylgeum of Athens ; on the top is 
a car of victory, which was taken by Napoleon to Paris, but 
returned after the battle of Waterloo. This gate leads into the 
Unter der Linden, the principal street of Berlin, so named from a 
double avenue of linden trees which form a shady walk in its cen- 
tre, while on each side of it runs the carriage road. The street 
extends from the Brandenburg gate to the royal palace, about 
one mile in distance. 

\Zth. — We made the usual excursion to Potsdam to-day, 
requiring about half an hour's time to reach it by rail. There 
are no less than five palaces near the town. We drove first to 
Babelsburg, the summer residence of the crown prince, and went 
through the different apartments ; the rooms are small and very 
plainly furnished. We saw some beautiful modern paintings 
in the apartments, and a portrait of the Princess Royal, eldest 
daughter of the Queen of England, which was painted by her- 
self, and also a bust of the Queen of Prussia modelled by her. 
The grounds are extensiye, and the views from some of the win- 



. • GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 255 

dows are magnificent. The chamber which the king occupies is 
very small, and the bedstead is, I think, the smallest that I have 
ever seen. We drove to Sans Souci, passing on the route several 
Swiss cottages owned by the royal family. We did not go 
through the palace, as there was nothing special in it to see. We 
walked through a part of the garden, which is laid out in the 
formal French taste. We had pointed out to us the graves of 
F'rederick the Great's horse and dogs. The place for their burial 
had been prepared by him, with directions that his own grave 
should be near them ; the command, however, was disregarded 
by his royal survivors, and he was buried by the side of his ances- 
tors in the church. We saw the celebrated windmill which was 
owned by one of his subjects, and which he wished to purchase 
and add the grounds to those of the palace. The owner refused 
to sell and Frederick instituted a suit to compel him to do so, but 
was beaten. Afterward the present mill of brick was erected as 
a monument of Prussian justice. We then drove to the New palace, 
built by Frederick after the close of the sevep years' war, to show 
his enemies that his resources were not exhausted by the struggle. 
Its cost is not known, as he paid all the bills himself and burnt 
them. It is a work of gaudy magnificence. The first room we 
entered had walls of polished marble and columns of the same ; 
passing out of this we entered the grotto, or shell-room, which is 
curious. It is a large hall with the walls and pillars covered with 
shells, stones, and imitations of stalactites. The ceiling is arched, 
the floors marble, and altogether it is both curious and grostesque. 
We went through a number of other rooms, including the ball- 
room and theatre, the last containing a number of paintings, not 
as chaste as they might have been, which, however, is no uncom- 
mon thing in Germany. We went into the library and among 
other books saw the Emperor's Bible, which, judging from his close 
intimacy with Voltaire, whose picture hung in the room, was not 
read with much profit to himself. As we returned to the depot 
we saw a number of Russian houses built like our log-cabins, the 
logs, however, being made of planks. We stopped at one of the 



256 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

gardens belonging to the palace grounds, in which was a house 
built in the Pompeiian style by the king's brother, now dead. 
Baron Humboldt once occupied a part of it. We drove to the 
depot, partook of a lunch, and left in the 3:30 train for the city. 
We were all disappointed with our day's excursion, and came to 
the conclusion that Potsdam is a very much overrated place, and 
a "sell." The excursion cost just eleven dollars and twenty 
cents, in new and bright French gold, but "wasn't worth the 
money." 

14th, Sunday. — In the morning we all attended service at the 
English and American church (Presbyterian), and heard a good 
sermon from 1 Peter iv. 10. The principal point in the dis- 
course was that men, in whatever sphere they move, should minister 
to their fellows, and endeavor always to do them good, in tem- 
poral as well as in spiritual things. The shoemaker, he said, who 
made his shoes well, and took pains to have them fit properly, so 
as not to cause the wearer pain or inconvenience, was ministering, 
to his fellow man and glorifying God — a homely but not a bad 
illustration. This preacher was not the first, however, to employ 
it. John Tauler and Martin Luther both use the same illustration 
in teaching the same doctrine. And yet, in these days of shams, it 
cannot be too frequently repeated. The congregation was small. 
The room in which the services were held was occupied at an ear- 
lier hour by a German congregation. In the afternoon I took 
quite a long walk through the different streets. The places of 
business were, as a general thing, closed, and the city had a Sab- 
bath-like appearance, except the Unter der Linden, which was 
thronged with persons going to and returning from the public 
gardens. 

l^th. — We visited the Koyal Palace this morning, and were 
conducted through different apartments, which, in point of 
beauty and elegance, were much inferior to most of the palaces we 
have seen. The chandeliers in the ball-room are considered one 
of the attractions of the place. They are of glass, and are quite 
handsome. In the old chapel is another rich and elegant chan- 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 257 

delier which was presented by George IV. of England. The 
new chapel, with its cupola, one hundred and sixty-six feet high, 
and frescoed walls, with pictures of the Prophets, Evangelists, 
Martin Luther, Melancthon, Huss, and members of the Eoyal 
family, is one of the most attractive features of the palace. On 
entering the palace we were shown woollen slippers, which we 
were directed to put on over our boots, to prevent the floors from 
being defaced. This seemed ludicrous to us, who had walked 
over so many floors far surpassing these in beauty. 

We drove to Kreuzburg, a sand-hill just outside the gates of the 
city, on which is a monument to the soldiers who fell in the wars 
with Napoleon. We expected to have had a good view of the 
cit)', but a grove of trees intervening, shut out a greater part of it. 
The drive out was a very warm one, and we were glad to get back 
to the city. 

Berlin is situated on a plain, on both sides of the river Spree, a 
dull and sluggish stream, of insignificant width, and spanned 
by numerous bridges. It has a population of five hundred and 
forty thousand, and is about twelve miles in circumference. The 
streets are wide ; the houses are all stuccoed and uninviting. It 
is a stirring business place, and looks more like our American 
cities than any we have seen Taken as a whole, it is the most 
unattractive city we have yet visited. The hotel at which we 
stopped was crowded with Germans, many of whom were army 
officers ; and if these are fair specimens of '' His Majesty's sub- 
jects," I must say that, judging from their demeanor at the dinner 
table, they are sadly deficient in those qualities which are essen- 
tial to good manners and gentlemanly conduct. They were not 
only disgustingly boisterous, but their conversation, which was 
partly in French, was coarse and bordering on the obscene. They 
use both knife and fork in conveying food to the mouth, and one 
person, who had a seat opposite us, used his fork as a toothpick. 
This, be it remembered, was at a first-class hotel. We were 
neither favorably impressed with the city nor the company at the 
hotel, and none of us felt a regret at leaving the place. We set 



258 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

out in the 7:30 train for Hanover, and reached there at 2 a.m.. 
We had a bright moon, and could see the country through which 
we passed quite distinctly. It is level and forbidding. We 
stopped at the Hotel Royal, where^ we had miserable accommo- 
dations, for which we were charged very high prices. It is what 
in our country would be called '*a swindling concern," 

IQth. — After finishing (literally) a late and inferior breakfast, we 
procured a carriage and drove through and around the town, the 
new part of which is in good taste, with wide and handsomely 
built-up streets. Some of the houses in the old part of the 
city are antique and curious, with their high, sharp roofs of tiles 
and peaked gables, fronting on the streets. The walls of many 
of them between the stories incline in, and the story next above 
projects over on a line with the lower part of the wall, which 
gives them an odd appearance. The old town-hall is a quaint 
looking building, and was, doubtless, considered an elegant one in 
its day. Many of the residences in the outer parts of the city 
are ornamented with grounds. Just outside of the town is an 
avenue of great length, with carriage road in the centre, a road 
for equestrians on one side and pedestrians on the other, all shaded 
by four rows of linden trees. There is a large public square in 
front of the principal hotels, ornamented with numerous grass- 
plats, flower beds, and shrubbery. The railway station, a large 
and elegant building, fronts on one side of this square, and in the 
centre is a bronze equestrian statue of Ernest Augustus, on a 
granite pedestal. The suburbs of Hanover are pleasant, and the 
city, all things considered, well worth stopping to see. We left at 
2 P.M. for Amsterdam, intending to go a part of the way to-day, 
so as to avoid the necessity of having to leave at 2 a.m. on the 
train. Owing to the stupidity of the servant of the hotel, or 
the designs of the landlord to keep us at his house a day longer, 
we missed the train. I was vexed, and determined not to return 
to the hotel, and so had our baggage transferred to the Union 
Hotel close by, where we found the accommodations superior in 
every respect to those we left, and the charges more moderate. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 259 

11th. — We had to take the nio^ht train after all, and at 2 a.m. 
were on our way to Amsterdam. At 3 o'clock it was quite 
light. The country was flat, and not picturesque enough to keep 
any of us awake. The road was very rough, and the cars after 
changing at Menden were much inferior to any we have travelled 
in. We had several Dutchmen in the cars who tried to make 
themselves as disagreeable as possible, and altogether the ride was 
anything but comfortable. We were glad, at 10 o'clock a.m., 
to reach the end of our journey. We stopped at Brack's Doelen 
Hotel, where we had the most convenient rooms we have occupied 
for a long time. The building has been used as a hotel for two 
hundred and fifty years. Our meals were good and well served, 
and the prices were very reasonable. I drove around to the 
banker's where I found letters, and on my return we had break- 
fast. Wq first visited the place in which the ladies felt the most 
interest — the mills where diamonds are cut and polished. They 
are worked by steam ; the machinery acting upon metal plates 
causes them to revolve with fearful rapidity. Pulverized diamond 
is laid on these plates, the diamond to be polished is placed on a 
cap of amalgamized zinc and quicksilver and pressed on the 
plates. The process is very simple ; we saw the diamonds in their 
-original state and a few small ones polished. We made the 
excursion to Broek (pronounced Brook), a small village six miles 
distant. Everybody who visits Amsterdam for the first time goes 
to Broek, but no one I believe was ever heard to express a desire 
to go again. We had first to drive to the ferry, then cross to 
Waterland (all of the land about here one would judge is Water- 
land) ; there we hired a carriage to take us through. On our 
way out we stopped at a model dairy, which was the perfection 
of neatness ; we saw large quantities of cheese and butter already 
made, and much more in process of maturity. Our admira- 
tion diminished very materially when, on leaving, we were asked 
for the fees, which opened our eyes to the fact that it was 
only a show place, and not a fair specimen of Holland dairies. 
Broek is celebrated for its cleanliness. It has only a few streets 5 



260 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

these are neatly paved with brick, and carriages are not 
allowed to pass over them, nor can any one ride through them, 
though they are permitted to lead their horses. The guide-books 
devote pages to this place, which is an ordinary little town with 
mean wood buildings, and is the "smallest humbug" in all 
Europe. The road leading to it follows the banks of the Grand 
and other canals, in which we saw numbers of vessels and steam- 
ers. The wind blew a gale, and the wind-mills, which in Holland 
are as thick as blaclAerries, seemed to be holding high carnival. 
On paying for our carriage at Waterland we found that the 
excursion to Broek was an expensive luxury, the charge being 
more than double the rates asked in the city. On my return to 
the hotel I discovered that in settling the bill I had given the 
driver twenty francs too much ; this was vexatious, for at the price 
charged the fellow had' swindled me enough, but it could not be 
helped. Alas ! that this man's frequent drives to a village of 
such cleanliness should have no better effect on his conscience. 

18^/z, — After breakfast drove to the museum, containing a 
collection of about five hundred pictures, principally of the Dutch 
and Flemish Schools. One of the best pictures although one of 
the smallest, is Gerard Dow's "Evening School." The effect of 
the candle lights is more striking than natural. It cost in 1766 
the sum of eight hundred dollars, and in 1808, when purchased 
for the museum, its cost was three thousand seven hundred dollars. 
I did not think much of it. The principal picture in the gallery 
is the Banquet of the Civil Guard, the masterpiece of Van der 
Heist. There are twenty-five life-size figures, and all portraits, 
two others by Rembrandt, " The Night Watch" and the five 
Masters of the *' Draper's Company," also one by Jardin, which 
is very fine ; I was quite disappointed in the gallery. From here 
we went to the Fodor gallery, a small collection of very fine paint- 
ings, one of which was a splendid landscape of Swiss mountain 
scenery by "Laudan," a large-sized picture. These paintings 
were more enjoyable to me than those by the old masters. We 
next drove to the royal palace, the grandest building in the city ; it 



GEEAT BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 261 

is founded on thirteen thousand piles. We made the circuit of 
the first floor, passing through all the rooms, many of which are of 
handsomely sculptured marble. In one of the rooms we saw the 
famous picture of Van Speyk " blowing up his ship sooner than 
yield to the Belgians." The ball-room is one hundred feet high 
by fifty- five wide, and one hundred and twenty-five long, faced 
with white Italian marble, and said to be the highest room in 
Europe not supported by pillars. We then went up into the 
cupola and had a very good view of the city notwithstanding the 
rain. In this cupola there are sixty bells, some of which ring 
eveiy quarter of an hour. We concluded to drive through the 
principal streets of the city, although it was raining very hard ; 
I sat on the box that I might have a better view, but think I 
suffered in consequence. There are some large canals running 
through the city which are intersected by numerous smaller ones, 
forming nearly a hundred islands. These canals are crossed by 
about three hundred bridges, some of which are of wood and 
others of stone. There are four principal streets that are two miles 
long and very wide ; on these are numerous handsome stores, in the 
windows of which many rich and elegant articles were displayed. 
The houses are all built on piles. The style of architecture is 
peculiar to the place, and cannot well be described. The city, like 
most others in Holland, is below the level of the sea, and is pro- 
tected from it by dykes. It is a quaint looking old town, a sort 
of resemblance to Venice, and is sometimes called the " Venice of 
the North." But it resembles Venice only " as the mist resembles 
. rain." It would be a difficult task to write a detailed description 
of the city, and as we had only a general view of it, I can only 
speak of it in general terms. We returned to the hotel, took din- 
ner, and left in the 7:25 p.m. train for the Hague, reaching there 
at 9:25, and went directly to the Hotel Bellevue, which is well 
situated, but very badly kept. The proprietor being neither a 
gentleman nor an honest man, I would say to any of my friends 
viiriting the Hague, avoid this hotel by all means. We had some 



262 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

friends who stopped at the Hotel Poulez, and were satisfied with 
their host and their entertainment. 

19th. — Our first visit this morning was to the " palace in the 
woods," which is the residence of the Queen of Holland. It is 
prettily situated in the centre of a park beautifully wooded ; the 
exterior is very plain, exceedingly so, and with the interior I was 
much disappointed. We saw but four rooms, three of which 
were furnished with Chinese furniture. The walls were hung with 
Chinese embroidered silk. There were also Japanese articles of 
furniture about the rooms. The ceilings and walls of the 
*' Orange hall or ball-room" were covered with paintings by 
Kubens, Jordaens, and Hondthorst. The only thing which 
struck me pleasantly was an embroidered mat worked by the 
queen herself After walking to the hotel through the park we 
went to the national museum. On the lower floor is the royal 
cabinet of curiosities, comprising the costumes of the Chinese and 
Japanese of different ranks, historical relics of eminent persons, 
and a large collection of Japanese warlike weapons, coats of mail, 
and surgical instruments. Among the relics was the sword of 
Van Speyk and the armor of Admiral Von Tromp. The collec- 
tion of paintings in the gallery above was very small, and with a 
few exceptions without much merit. There were several very 
pretty landscapes ; these, together with the celebrated picture of 
the Young Bull by Paul Potter, were the only ones worth noticing ; 
the latter is by far the finest specimen of animal painting that I 
have ever seen. The picture represents a young bull, a cow 
lying on the grass, two sheep and a lamb, the herdsman leaning 
against the fence behind two trees. The figures are all life-size, 
and so true to nature that it was difficult to realize that I was 
gazing upon canvas. This picture was carried to Paris by 
Napoleon, notwithstanding the Dutch Government offered him 
one hundred thousand dollars to leave it at the Hague. After 
his fall it was restored to its original place. I drove through the 
city, and the sections occupied by the poorer classes, and also that 
inhabited by the Jews. — ^After dinner drove to the bathing place 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 263 

of Scheveningen, three miles from the city on the seaside. — On 
our return stopped at a bazaar containing a large assortment of 
ornamental and useful articles, together with a valuable collec- 
tion of paintings. 

20th. — We had an early breakfast and left at 9 a. m. for Ant- 
werp. We arrived at Kotterdara in an hour, where we engaged 
a carriage and drove through a part of the city. It is situated on 
the banks of the river Maas, w^here it is joined by the Kotte, and 
is intersected even more than Amsterdam by canals, nearly all of 
which are bordered with trees, and those add much to the beauty 
of the place. We drove down one of its quays, which is more than 
a mile and a half in length, where we saw a large concourse of 
ships from all parts of the world. Along the entire length is a 
row of shade trees, which not only beautifies the quay, but affords 
protection from the sun to those engaged in loading and unloading 
vessels. At the extreme lower end are some elegant residences with 
pleasant grounds. The streets, except those on the quays and along 
some of the canals, are narrow and the buildings plain. "A stranger 
who has never seen a Dutch town before," says a traveller, "will 
find more amusement in merely walking through the streets than 
in the sights which guide-books are usually content to enumerate. 
Vehicles running upon sledges instead of wheels, with barrels of 
water placed on them to sprinkle the pavement, the water being 
jerked out through several small holes as the horse moves on ; the 
shoes of the horses, which may be compared to pattens, the 
wooden sabots of the peasants, the brass milk-pails glistening like 
polished armor, the little mirrors fastened before the front win- 
dows of every house, are all novelties not to be met with in his own 
country." These miiTors, by the way, consist of two pieces of 
glass placed at an angle of forty-five degrees to each other, the one 
reflecting up, the other down the street. By means of this con- 
trivance the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside without 
the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze ; and while she 
sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting 
or sewing without interruption. 



264 JOUENAL OY A TOUR THROUGH 

Rotterdam is the second city in Holland in population, and /rs« 
for its maritime importance. Its present population is a little 
over one hundred thousand. One of the principal occupations of 
the men is the coloring of meerschaums ; that of the women, 
"scrubbing, scraping, mopping, and washing everything that 
comes in their way, whether it requires it or not." Having 
" done" Rotterdam, we left at noon on the steamer, and ascended 
the river for two hours, when we landed and went by rail to Ant- 
werp, arriving at 4 p.m., and stopping at the St. Antoine. This 
day's journey was humdrum, and we were glad to get to the end 
of it. After djnner we walked through some of the streets and 
amused ourselves by looking into the shop windows. 
' 21st, Sunday. — I awoke with a bad headache, which continued 
all day. We went to the English church in the morning. The 
congregation was large. I occupied a seat near the door, and the 
noise from the street prevented my hearing distinctly. The text 
was Luke vi. 36. At the close of the services a collection was 
taken for the benefit of the British Colonial Society, which is 
a most worthy organization, having for its object the preaching of 
the gospel wherever Englishmen are found in foreign countries. 
We are indebted to it for many of the religious privileges we have 
enjoyed on the continent. After dinner I tried to walk off my 
headache, but did not succeed. 

<^2d. — We visited the celebrated cathedral this morning and 
were much pleased with some things about it, but as a whole it 
did not come up to our expectations. It has a nave and treble 
aisles on each side, separated by six rows of pillars which support 
the vaulted roof; one of these aisles is devoted to chapels. In 
front of the high altar is a small dome with some good frescoes. 
In the rear of the high altar the shape is circular, and is devoted to 
numerous chapels and confessional boxes. These last are orna- 
mented with life-size figures carved in wood. The pulpit is 
carved in wood, with figures of birds, flowers, and foliage, all of 
which are of fine execution. Some of Rubens' best pictures are 
in this church. These are kept covered and shown only for a fee. 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 265 

We were so prejudiced against his pictures that none of us cared 
to see them. As some of our friends do not, perhaps, share our 
prejudices against Eubens, it is but fair to add that the subjects 
of this master's three great paintings here exhibited are : 1. The 
Descent from the Cross. 2. The Elevation of the Cross. 3. The 
Assumption of the Virgin. The cathedral is five hundred feet 
long by two hundred and fifty feet wide in the transept. The 
steeple is the great attraction, and far excels in beauty any other 
that I have ever seen. It is of Gothic architecture ; its minute 
carved work Napoleon compared to Mechlin lace ; it runs up 
tapering to a great height — between three hundred and thirty-six 
and four hundred and sixty-six feet, the various authorities dif- 
fering between these figures. Its beauty is marred by the face of 
a clock, which should be taken down. The books say " probably 
there is no place in Europe so rich in magnificent churches as 
Antwerp," and yet, with the exception of this spire, there is 
scarcely a church or any part of a church worth walking a square 
to see, at least to any one who has seen the churches of Italy. 

We then went to the museum and through the picture gallery, 
which is comparatively small, and contains principally old pictures 
of the Dutch and Flemish schools. We saw none that seemed 
worthy of remark. We drove to S. Jaques, the exterior of which 
is spoiled by having houses and shops built up against its walls, 
excepting only a part of the front. As the hour for closing had 
arrived, we had only time to glance at its interior. The tomb of 
Rubens is in this church. 

Antwerp is situated on the banks of the Scheldt, and is the 
principal port of Belgium. Its docks, which were constructed 
under the order of Napoleon I., are very good, and are capable of 
accommodating two thousand ships. Its commerce is now com- 
paratively small, and but few vessels are seen here. The streets 
are laid out without any plan, and it is difficult for a stranger to 
find his way through the city. Some of them, however, are wide 
and well built up. The population is between eighty and one 
hundred thousand. I must not forget to mention an imposition 

12 



266 JOURNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

which is practised by the manager of the Hotel S. Antoine. It 
is customary at many hotels to charge a fixed price for a dinner, 
including a bottle of wine ; and whenever wine is placed on the 
table, it is taken for granted that it is furnished with the dinner. 
At this hotel a bottle of ordinary wine is placed at each seat, and 
if one glass only is taken from it the prite of a full bottle is charged. 
"We had a bottle at each of our seats, and I was charged with four 
bottles a day, when we did not use one. I refused to pay, and it 
was deducted. We left at 7 o'clock p.m., and arrived at Brussels 
in an hour, and went to the Hotel Bellevue, a pleasantly situated, 
but very expensive house. I omitted to say that we went into 
one of the silk establishments in Antwerp — saw the celebrated 
Antwerp silk, and witnessed the weaving of it in hand looms. 
This silk is sold principally to persons visiting the city, in single 
patterns. It is very much overrated, and is inferior to the Lyons' 
silks. 

2Sd. — After breakfast I engaged a cab to drive me to the 
banker's, where I expected to find letters ; but as the driver was 
too stupid to find the place I dismissed him and walked to it, and 
found one letter only. After returning to the hotel I took a 
carriage and we drove through the principal streets, and around 
the park. We visited the Cathedral of S. Gudule, founded in 
1010. As we approached the door we saw numbers of women 
and children coming out, and as they passed the custodian he gave 
each a small sum of money. On inquiry we learned that this 
money was contributed by a duke, whose name I have forgotten, 
for distribution among the poor^ He was truly a nobleman. The 
church is in the shape of a cross, and is large and handsome. It 
has a nave and two aisles with chapels on the sides. The windows 
are of stained glass, old and modern, and some of them are beau- 
tiful. The pulpit is decorated with groups of figures carved in 
wood. There are some well-executed tapestries hanging around 
the high altar. 

Our next visit was to the picture gallery, in the palace formerly 
owned by the Duke of Orange. The collection was small, but 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 267 

it contained some good landscapes and groups of cattle. We 
went, also, through the gallery of the old palace, where we saw a 
small collection of ordinary paintings, and afterward visited several 
lace manufactories, but made no purchases. 

We met at the dinner table an old acquaintance, who is at- 
tached to the American Embassy. The conversation turned on 
the large number of our countrymen now travelling in Europe, 
their different objects, aims, and tastes. Some of them evi- 
dently did not appreciate all they saw, as will be seen from the 
following remarks : One gentleman, with his wife, went to Rome 
to spend the winter. After being there two days, he came 
to the conclusion that "Rome was a sell," and left in disgust. 
He said there was "nothing but a lot of old, shabby-looking 
houses and broken walls ; no horse raikoads ; no sidewalks ; no 
bars, where a fellow could go and get a drink ; and he couldn't 
see what people went to Rome for." Another visited Versailles, 
and while there witnessed the playing of the fountains and 
waterworks (which are the finest in the world). He "didn't 
think much of them ; he'd seen a prettier sight than them in Cin- 
cinnati. When them English capitalists came there, they gave 
'em a reception, and all the fire engines turned out, and was in a 
straight row, and, when the word was given, they squirted streams 
a mighty sight higher than these fountains did." Still another 
gentleman and his wife were seated near him at the table ; when 
the repast was finished, he remarked to his wife, " Come, Jane, 
I'm full, if you've got enough let's get out of this." AVe all, I 
believe, came to the conclusion that it would be a ditficult matter 
to learn the "objects, aims, and tastes" of «// who visit Europe. 
These referred to belong to the class (by no means a small one) of 
"queer" Americans who are travelling here. Let us hope, for 
the reputation of America, that these are the exceptions. We 
have met and travelled with a large number of our countrymen, 
most of whom were persons of education and refinement, and ap- 
preciated and enjoyed what they saw. 

24M. — I spent most of the morning, with May and Sade, in 



268 JOUENAL OE A TOUR THROUGH 

visiting some lace establis*hments, and left minus a goodly number 
of francs, and with a conviction that such places are dangerous 
for amiable fathers and husbands to visit with their wives and 
daughters. On our return we stopped at a place of refreshment, 
and had some ices and coffee under the arbor in the rear, on one 
side of which is an old Roman wall, built many centuries ago. 
Sade gathered some flowers for her collection. After dinner I 
walked through the park. Mr. C. spent the evening with us, and 
it was late before we retired. 

25^A. — Howie and I paid a visit to the barber's, and afterward 
to the banker's, where I found letters from home. I spent the 
balance of the day in reading and answering letters, particularly 
in reference to engaging a passage home. Brussels, the capital 
of Belgium, is situated on the river Senne, some fifty miles from 
the sea. It has a population of one hundred and eighty thousand, 
and has a neat, tasteful Parisian appearance. The park is sur- 
rounded by fine wide streets, which reminds one of Paris, as indeed 
does most of the upper end of the city. The greater part of the 
town is built on a height, and some of the streets are very steep. 
The lower part is older and less neat than the upper, the streets 
there being narrow and the buildings very common. We did not 
visit the palace. I was not well, and consequently saw less of 
the city than I otherwise would have done My ideas of the place 
are rather confused, in consequence of my superficial views of it. 
Lace and carpets are the specialities of the place. 

27//i. — We left for Cologne and Bonn at 10 o'clock a. m. 
Owing to some peculiarity about the management of the Belgian 
railways, nearly fifty per cent, can be saved in the fare to Cologne, 
by taking tickets to Verviers, the frontier town, and getting others 
from there through. Verviers is distant eighty-seven miles from 
r>russels. Our tickets to that place cost us twenty-six and a half 
francs and baggage fourteen francs. From Verviers to Cologne it 
is only sixty-seven miles, and our tickets cost sixty-six and a half 
francs and baggage six francs. The country is mostly level. We 
passed through an unusually largo number of tunnels as we neared 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 269 

Cologne, which place we reached at 4 p. m., and went directly to 
the cathedral, which is close by the depot. This is said to be the 
best church in Europe. It may or may not be, but it is certainly 
beautiful, grand, and magnificent, beyond the power of description. 
It was commenced in 1 248, and is yet far from being finished, 
although the Protestant Kings of Prussia have expended, it is 
said, two million dollars on it during the last forty years. Its 
length is five hundred and fourteen feet, width of transept two 
hundred and thirty feet, height one hundred and sixty one feet. 
Its two towers when finished are to be five hundred feet high. It 
has a nave and five aisles, separated by one hundred and four 
beautiful stone columns. The stained glass windows, some of 
which are of the fourteenth century, and some modem, are 
strikingly beautiful. The style is Gothic, Its beauty is greatly 
marred by the sharp roof, which impairs the effect of the perfect 
forest of spires which surround it. This has been called the St. 
Peter's of Gothic architecture. The chapel of the Magi, situated 
behind the high altar, contains numerous so-called relics, which 
are greatly venerated by the Catholics, but which are too absurd 
to be mentioned. As it was the hour of the evening service we 
were hurried rapidly through, and I regretted that we could not 
examine it in detail, and note down its most striking features. It 
is estimated that five hundred thousand dollars will be required 
to finish it. 

On the opposite side of the square from the cathedral, is the 
establishment of Johann Anton Farina, the regular successor of 
the first manufacturer of the Eau de Cologne. Thither we 
wended our way and invested to the extent of a dozen bottles of 
the genuine article. We then went to the Hotel du Nord, a 
very attractive looking place, where we dined — walked across 
the magnificent bridge of stone which spans the Rhine, and on one 
side of which is a railway track — had a good view from the 
bridge, and returned to the station in time for the 7:15 p. m. train 
for Bonn, at which place we arrived in an hour, and went directly 
to the Hotel Royal. Here we were conducted to very poor rooms 



270 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

at the top of the house, which were the only ones unoccupied. 
The hotel is finely situated and well conducted. Bonn has a 
population of twenty thousand, including the garrison. It com- 
mands a view of the " Seven Mountains,*' which are only what 
some of us Americans would call " small potatoes." The town 
is chiefly remarkable for its University. 

Tlih. — At 10:30 o'clock a. m., we were on board the steamer 
bound up the Rhine. As we left the rain came down in torrents, 
and drove us all into the cabin, which prevented our getting a 
view of the town from the river. The weather was variable 
during the day — sunshine, clouds, and rain. The steamer was 
overcrowded, and our situation was not as agreeable as persons 
travelling for pleasure could desire. The scenery along the 
Rhine did not equal our expectations in extent or beauty. For 
the first four hours the country is comparatively flat, and the 
scenery by no means striking. After that it becomes more bold 
and hilly, and parts of it are picturesque and beautiful. The hills 
on both banks for quite a long distance are covered with vineyards, 
which is one of the attractive features of the scenery. In many 
parts along the river these hills are terraced with stone walls, and 
the small plots of ground perched upon them are covered with 
vines. Another noticeable feature of the scenery is the large 
number of old castles, many of them in ruins, standing defiantly 
upon almost inaccessible points of the rocky cliffs. The former 
occupants of these were nothing more than pirates, who preyed 
upon the commerce ascending and descending the Rhine. There 
are numerous towns scattered along the river, but few of which 
possess much beauty. 

After passing Bingen " fair Bingen on the Rhine," the country 
becomes more level again. The cold winds sent us all down into 
the cabin, and we saw but little of the country above that point. 
We had a miserable dinner on board. We landed at Biebrich at 
10 o'clock p. M., when we took an omnibus, and in less than an 
hour were at the Hotel Quatre Saisons at Wiesbaden. 

28i^, Sunday. — We attended services at the English Church in 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 271 

the morning. The minister informed the congregation that the 
sermon was not his own, but borrowed ; and, as he was not even 
a good borrower, none of us were much interested. In the 
afternoon I went through the Kursaal or gambling house, which 
to the Germans is the principal attraction of the town. The 
building is large and elegant, and contains numerous rooms, some 
of which are supplied with the principal continental newspapers, 
others are used as billiard rooms, a part as restaurant, and others 
for public gaming, all of which are richly furnished. There were 
large crowds of persons of both sexes and all ages around the 
tables, some betting and others looking on. It is not considered 
disrespectable here for a lady to take a seat at the table and bet, 
even on the Sahhath day. This, bear \\\ mind, is in Protestant 
Germany vSo far as my observation has extended the Germans 
have less of religious sentiment than any other people I have met 
with ; the Sabbath is observed by them as a day of recreation 
and amusement- The grounds belonging to the establishment 
are extensive and kept in excellent order. In the afternoon large 
numbers of the visitors assemble in these grounds to enjoy the 
promenade and partake of refreshments ; these are served on 
small tables in front of the building. The company by whom the 
establishment is kept pay the Duke twenty-five thousand dollars for 
the raonoply ; this, with their other enormous expenditures in 
keeping up the ground and the establishment, will give some idea of 
the vast amounts won. 

30^A. — The weather continued cold and unpleasant. We took 
a stroll through the town and stopped at the new Lutheran 
church, which is of brick, and has a very handsome exterior ; the 
interior is very plain. In the centre of the front is a large and 
very high steeple, on each side of which is a smaller one. The 
same Duke who farms out the exclusive privilege of gambling has 
a box in the church similar to the proscenium boxes in an opera 
house, at the end of the gallery nearest the pulpit. On our return 
we visited the spring, and drank some of the water, which is warm 
and unpalatable. I then took May and Sade through the differ- 



272 JOUENAL OF A TOTJE TEEOUGH 

ent rooms of the Kursaal, which as is usual was crowded with 
persons, who seemed so much absorbed in the games as to be 
oblivious to all around them. 

Weisbaden is described as a delightful watering place. So far 
as our observation extended its delights seem all to be confined to 
a certain class of persons, and concentrated in the Kursaal. 
We felt no regrets at leaving a place where there was such an 
evident lack of refinement among its visitors, and a total disregard 
of the comforts of its guests by the proprietors of the Hotel 
Quatre Saisons, 

^Ist. — We left at about 11 o'clock a.m. for Frankfort, which 
is one hour distant by rail, and stopped at the Hotel de Russie, 
a very well conducted house. I went over to the "Original 
Kothschilds '* and had a draft cashed, after which I walked 
through the Jewish part of the city. The houses are of the most 
unattractive character, the streets narrow and filthy, and the 
inhabitants in that particular not much better than the streets. 
It was here that the Eothschild was born. 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 273 



AUGUST. 

IsL — Spent most of the day quietly. Sent a telegram to my 

friend Mr. T in Paris, in reference to securing our passages 

home on the S. Laurent. Frankfort is situated on the river Main, 
and has a population of eighty-five thousand. It is most strangely 
described in the guide-book as one of the noblest cities in Ger- 
many, and one of the most pleasant places for residence on the 
continent. I say most strangely, because it has so little about it 
that is attractive. The streets are crooked and narrow, the build- 
ings plain and unsightly, and the stores and shops uninviting. Of 
course I cannot express an opinion about the society : that 
may make up for all deficiencies. It boasts of one picture gallery 
v^^hich is small, and contains only a very few paintings of much 
merit. We saw, however, several fine modern pictures here. 
One piece of statuary, Ariadne (a female seated on a tiger), 
which is of poor marble, is exhibited in a curtained room to hide 
its defects. We drove through some of the principal streets and 
returned to the hotel. I went through the wine cellars of the 
proprietors of the hotel (the Messrs. Drexel Brothers), who are 
also wine merchants. These cellars were extensive and admirably 
arranged, and well stocked with Rhine wines, many of very fine 
quality. Some of them were much superior to any wines that I 
had ever drank. 

2d.— We left at 10;30 a.m. for Heidelberg and Baden-Baden, 
and arrived at the former place at 12:45 p. m., where we remained 
until 4:40, for the purpose of visiting the renowned old castle. 
Immediately on our arrival we engaged a carriage, and drove to 
the Wolfs Brunnen, about two miles distant from the town. It 
was here that the enchantress Jetta lived and was torn in pieces 
by a wolf So saith the legend. It is picturesquely situated, 

12* 



274 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

and is celebrated for its trout-pond, in which are an almost in- 
numerable quantity of fish, and some of immense size. You can 
order them of any weight, and they are taken from the pond and 
cooked. We gave our orders for dinner, and while it was being 
prepared, walked around the different ponds, and paid a small, fee 
to see the fish fed with "smaller fry," which Howie enjoyed very 
much. After finishing our dinner, which was not satisfactory (as 
the trout were miserably cooked), we drove up to the old castle. 
The view surpasses description. The castle was founded by the 
elder Kudolph, in the fourteenth century, as a castle and palace. 
It is situated on an almost perpendicular hill, overlooking the town 
and valley of the Neckar, through which that beautiful little river 
(the Neckar) passes on toward the Rhine. The building is square, 
with a low, round tower at one end (which was partly destroyed 
by the French in 1693), and a higher one, of octagonal shape, at 
the other. It was sacked and partly burnt in 1693 by the French. 
In 1764 it was struck by lightning and burnt, since which it has 
remained roofless. That part called the English Palace was built 
by the Elector Frederick V. as a residence for his wife, who was 
daughter of James I. of England. We were conducted by one of 
the custodians through a number of old apartments — all with 
their particular names and history. We also went into the cellars, 
in one of which we saw the cask which holds sixty thousand 
bottles, and very near it the celebrated Heidelberg tun, another 
monster cask, said to hold three hundred thousand bottles of 
^ine— about eight hundred hogsheads. It has been filled only 
three times during the last hundred years. I noticed particu- 
larly one of the walls of the palace which has openings for 
cannon, and is fifteen feet in thickness. The grounds belonging 
to it are kept in good order. One could spend weeks delight- 
fally in wandering through and around these old ruins. Many 
stirring scenes, which are a part of history, were enacted in and 
by this old stronghold. The French have paid their respects to 
it on numerous occasions. The town has a population of about 
ei"-hteen thousand, and is beautifully situated. Its University is 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 275 

the oldest in Germany excepting that of Prague. The students 
of late years are more celebrated for duelling than fine scholarship ; 
swords are the weapons used. In driving through the streets we 
saw several with large cuts on their faces. They wear small fancy 
caps, without visors, to designate the different societies. These 
look comical enough. It is said that the students spend a fourth 
of their time at the beer saloons, and it is at these places that the 
duels originate. We left at 4:40, and reached Baden-Baden in three 
hours, going directly to the Hotel de TEurope, having telegraphed 
for rooms, which we found small and inconvenient. A part of 
the country over which we passed was not unattractive, but we 
were all too tired to enjoy even beautiful scenery. 

3d. — We did not like our rooms, and so removed to the Vic- 
toria, where we had a fine suite of apartments. The hotel is 
comparatively new, and is very well conducted. We remained 
within during most of the day. In the evening we went to the 
grounds in front of the Kursaal to hear the Austrian military band, 
which was returning from the Paris exposition, where they had 
received the first prize. The band was very large, and the music 
the sweetest of the kind I had ever heard. The whole available 
space in and around the grounds was occupied by spectators, 
chairs being readily taken at three francs an hour. An enclosed 
platform had been erected in the centre of the lawn for the band, 
an I at each of its corners were poles, from the tops of which the 
Austrian flag floated in the evening breeze. On either side of the 
entrance were immense vases in which artificial flowers of glass 
were tastefully arranged, and other parts were adorned with stars 
and flowers. The whole was brilliantly illuminated Avith red, yellow, 
and black paper lanterns, the Austrian colors being preserved 
throughout the entire arrangement. It produced an effect as 
beautiful as it was brilliant. The whole scene was enlivened by 
grand and melodious strains of music, which seemed to float 
tremblingly away upon the night air, and then come dancing 
back After performing about an hour on the stand the band 
retired to the porticoes of the Kursaal, for the purpose of giving 



276 JOUENAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

those an opportunity of listening to the music who were being 
relieved of their florins at the gambling tables. "We enjoyed the 
entertainment very much, and little Howie, who admires the 
Austrians for their gay uniforms, was delighted beyond measure. 
4M, Sunday. — We went to the English church in the morning. 
The services were conducted in the German Protestant church, a 
large and handsome edifice. The congregation was large and 
attentive. The sermon was from Matt. xi. 29, " learn of me." 
The main point was that Christ is the only person we can follow in 
danger, and without the hazard of being misled, and imitate in all 
his imitable perfections, and we can best follow him by cultivating 
the same meek and lowly spirit which he possessed (esteeming others 
better than ourselves), and forgiving those who have wronged us, 
as he also forgave his enemies. In the afternoon I went through 
the gambling establishment, which was similar to the one de- 
scribed at Wiesbaden. I only remained a few minutes, and then 
took a long walk up on the hills, where all was quiet, and one 
could commune with his own thoughts, and have but little to in- 
terrupt his meditations. I returned quite fatigued, and we retired 
early. 

^th. — Keceived letters from Mr. T-^ informing me that our 

passage was secured on the S. Laurfent for November seventh. 
Answered his letter and wrote to my brother Newton. Sade and 
I took quite a long walk up the hills, before breakfast. We 
observed a party going into the Greek chapel, situated alone on 
one of the hills, and catching up we entered with them. It is a 
small but very pretty edifice, and has some good frescoes on its 
walls and ceilings. The dome is ia the centre of the church, and 
its interior has frescoes of the eleven apostles. Situated a short 
distance from the church is a large stone font in the open air fur 
immersion. Our exercise and the morning air gave us good 
appetites, and we enjoyed our breakfast more than usual. 

Our friends Mr. and Mrs. W. Y. M., and their daughter 
Minnie, and Mrs. D. B. A. son, and daughter Annie, fiom New 
York, arrived to day and came to our hotel. We were glad to 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON TEE CONTINENT. 277 

meet them ; and as for Sade and Minnie they were in as high a 
state of ecstacy as ever St. Cecelia was. Our friends Mr. and 
Mrs. S. P. D. of San Francisco, called upon us. They are at 
the Hotel de I'Europe. This, I think, is their third visit here. The 
ladies e^pent most of the day together discussing probably the 
wild and solemn grandeur of the Black Forest, the indescribable 
beauty of sunny Italy, the bold and savage features of Switzer- 
land, and the many other interesting places and things which they 
had seen in their travels. Paris milliners and dressmakers were 
of course not mentioned, or even " in all of their thoughts." 

6^/i.— Sade, Minnie, Annie, and I walked up to the old castle, 
which after having been the residence of the Margraves of Baden 
for three centuries, was destroyed by the French in 1688. It is 
situated high up on the side of the hill, and commands an enchant- 
ing view of the valley of the Rhine and the Black Forest. As 
ruins they do not compare v/ith those of Heidelberg, but they are 
picturesque, and we felt well repaid for our walk. We spent an 
hour or two in climbing up the steep steps leading to the top of 
the walls, and walking through the ruins. After this we par- 
took of some refreshments, under the shade of the grand and ven- 
erable trees in front of the entrance. In one of the old windows 
is an -^Eollan harp, which, as the wind sweeps over its strings, 
makes sweet yet mournful sounds, and, like the siren's song, draws 
you irresistibly toward it. It appeared as if a more fitting place 
for an ^olian harp could hardly be found in the wide world. The 
distance up from the town is quite long, but we walked very slowly, 
and seats being stationed all along the road, we stopped frequently 
to rest. In going up we passed the new Schloss, or palace of the 
Grand Duke, in which his ancestors have resided for four hundred 
years. It is an old looking building. The young ladies enjoyed 
the excursion very much. 

1th. — The morning was cloudy and unpleasant. We drove up, 
in company with our friends, to the new palace, and went through 
some of the rooms, where we saw portraits of all the former 
Dukes of Baden, and various other things pertaining to places of 



278 JOUENAL OE A TOUE THEOUGH 

the kind. We next went through a part of the grounds, and 
afterward down into the old subterranean dungeons, which are 
gloomy in the extreme, and make one shudder as he passes through 
the numerous rooms. As all light is excluded, we had to rely 
upon our candles, which cast dim and uncertain shadows on the 
damp walls. The doors are of single slabs of granite of great 
thickness. Some of the ladies were made quite nervous by look- 
ing at these relics of ancient cruelty, and were glad to get back to 
the light of day and a more Christian civilization. We drove 
up to the old castle, but it commenced raining, and the ladies, 
except Mrs. M. , remained in the carriages, and, after stopping a 
few moments, we returned to the hotel. 

^iJi — One year ago to-day we embarked on the Scotia for 
Europe. How many dangers we have escaped are known only to 
Him who notices the fall of a sparrow, and numbers the hairs of 
the head. He has been with us during all of our journeyings, and 
appointed our "wearisome nights" as well as our days of pleas- 
ure and enjoyment, and all, as we trust, for our good. May we 
never forget that all our blessings have flowed from the hand that 
was pierced for us. May the Divine Spirit incline our hearts to 
follow Christ's example, and enable us to discharge all the duties 
He enjoins. Then we shall die the death of the righteous, and 
our last end will be like his. 1 suffered during last night from a 
headache, and am quite miserable to-day. I walked out with 
Sade, Minnie, and Annie this morning. 

9^^. — Went out with Howie, and engaged a donkey for him 
to take a ride, after which I returned to the hotel, and remained 
quiet the balance of the day. The D's called on us again, 
and, as the ladies were out, they went to Mrs. A's room, where 
we met them later. The sun has been oppressive to-day, but 
there was a good breeze, and it was pleasant in the shade. — Wrote 
a short letter to Mr. B. 

lOi/z We rose very early to see our friends, the M's, off; they 

were ^oina- to Frankfort, and we to Switzerland. After bidding 
them good-bye, we went in and had breakfast. Later in the daj', 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 279 

ia company with Mrs. A. and Annie, called to see the D's, 
but did not find them in ; and, after taking a walk, we returned to 
the hotel. After dinner we took quite a long drive to the old 
Palace of Eberstein, situated in the Black Forest, some five miles 
from Baden. Mrs. A. went in the carriage with us, and Sade and 
Annie in a basket phaeton, the former driving. The road was 
good, the scenery romantic, and we all enjoyed it very much. It 
was after nine o'clock when we got back to the hotel. Although 
the moon was nearly full and above the hills, the road through the 
Black Forest was dark and almost gloomy. The hills in the dis- 
tance, which were occasionally visible, and the small valleys, 
which lay far below us, looked very enchanting in the soft moon- 
light ; and the cool evening breeze was very grateful after the heat 
of the day. 

Wth, Sunday. — We went to the English church in the morning, 
and heard an indifferent sermon from 1 Corinthians viii. 7, 8. 

Baden-Baden is, I believe, considered the most beautiful water- 
ing place in Germany. It is situated in a valley, encircled by the 
lower hills of the Black Forest range, and has a population of 
about six thousand. It has a very rural appearance, having 
grounds with extensive walks and drives. The company here is 
much more select than at Weisbaden, the town itself far more 
attractive, and the surrounding scenery wildly romantic The 
waters are warm and hot, being saline, with a mixture of muriatic 
and carbonic acid, with small portions of silex and oxide of iron. 
The hot springs number thirteen, and were known as far back as 
the time of the ancient Romans. The Trink-Halle is centrally 
situated on the public walks, the water being conveyed to it by 
pipes. A band of music plays every morning from half-past six 
to half-past seven. The front of the hall under the portico has 
frescoes representing legends of the Black Forest Like all 
watering places in Germany, it has its conversation haus, or Kur- 
saal, where gambling is carried on. This, like all others of its 
kind, has everything that ingenuity can invent to attract persons 
to it, inclu ling a theatre and a magnificent suite of apartments for 



280 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

balls and assemblies. In front is a Chinese pagoda for the musi- 
cians, erected in 1859, at a cost, it is said, of fourteen thousand 
dollars. I cannot, however, see how so large an amount could have 
been expended upon it. Howie took the baths while here, under 
the directions of the physician, Dr, Fischer I think was his name. 
Like every other quack, he is actuated by no higher motives in his 
practice than the " almighty florin." He recommends baths and 
frequent consultations for everything. 

I'ith. — We had an early breakfast, and left by the 8:30 train 
for Strasburg, at which place we arrived at 10:30. We met in 
the cars Mr. R. of New York, with whom we were acquainted. 
He is now our Consul at Strasburg. We went directly from the 
cars to the cathedral, which is one of the noblest Gothic edifices 
in Europe, and is renowned for having the highest steeple in the 
world, being four hundred and seventy-four feet above the pave- 
ment, and twenty-five feet higher than the great pyramid of 
Cheops at Cairo. The windows are of stained glass, some of 
which are several centuries old, but others are quite modern. 
The great attraction of the cathedral is a very curious clock. It 
is a complete astronomical almanac, from which you can read the 
revolutions of the heavenly bodies, and various phenomena which 
they exhibit. The hour of twelve is struck by a skeleton, repre- 
senting death, and while striking the apostles come out, one by 
one, above it, and each turns and bows to the Savior who stands 
in the centre, and a cock above these flaps his wings and crows 
three times. This clock w^as invented some three hundred years 
ago. Our friend Mr. R. met us here, and after going through 
the church we returned to a cafe near the depot, where we partook 
of a lunch, and left in the one o'clock train for Basle, which is 
several hours distant. We arrived late in the afternoon and 
stopped at the Schweizerhofl*, a very good hotel near the depot. 
May, Sade, and I took a long walk through the city, and returned 
very much fatigued from our hard day's work. We had dinner 
and retired early. 

IZth. — Howie and I drove through the city before breakfast ; 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 281 

we crossed the Rhine, and went through a part of the city on the 
opposite side from our hotel, and also into the old cathedral, which 
was plain and unattractive. Basle is well situated on both sides 
of the Rhine, and the new part is elegant. Its population is 
forty thousand. 

We left at 8:30 a. m. for Zurich, and after a very warm 
ride of three and a half hours arrived and stopped at the 
Hotel Bauer au lac, pleasantly situated at the lower end of 
the lake where it empties into the river Limmat. The weather 
was so intensely warm that we did not dare venture out until 
late in the afternoon, when we took a walk through the grounds 
of the hotel, which are small. 

14M. — The weather continues warm. I ventured to walk to 
the banker's, and was glad to get back and keep quiet and in the 
shade. After dinner May, Sade, and Howie took a row on the 
lake, I having a touch of the rheumatism thought it more prudent 
to remain within. 

15th. — There was a little wind and it was somewhat cooler. 
We all sat under the shade on the grounds, while Howie amused 
himself with fishing, without, however, meeting with any success, 
and May and Sade with worsted work. About three o'clock it 
became a little cloudy, and a pleasant breeze sprung up, which 
made it very comfortable weather. 

We left at 7:30 p. m. for Lucerne, and arrived in two hours. 
We stopped at the Schweizer Hof, a large hotel facing the lake, 
and with a commanding view. We passed over a pleasant 
country, but darkness hid much of its scenery from us. 

16M. — It rained during the day, and we did not go out. We 
enjoyed the view from our windows. The lake is beautiful and 
its surroundings sublime. Mount Pilatus, with its rugged sides, 
rises majestically above the lake, and, rapt in its mantle of clouds, 
looks like a stern old Roman warrior, bidding defiance to man and 
the gods. 

17 tk. — Having made our arrangements for an excursion up 
the lake, we left at 10 o'clock a. m. on a steamer for Fluelen, 



282 JOUENAL OE A TOUE THEOUGH 

at the upper end of the lake, about twenty-four miles distant 
from Lucerne. The diligences which go over the pass of St. 
Gothard, start from Fluelen. The scenery bordering on the lake 
varies between the beautiful and the sublime. It is certainly 
beyond my powers of description. The shores are studded with 
pretty towns and villages, and we saw several inviting looking 
hotels away up, and apparently hanging on the sides of the 
mountains, and seeming quite inaccessible. A party came down 
from one of these and embarked on the steamer. They spoke 
of the views as being magnificent and the temperature delightful. 
An excellent road is being made around the borders of the lake, 
much of which is cut through the living rock. On the left shore 
of the lake, near the upper end, is Tell's chapel, a very modest 
little affair, built on the water's edge in a wild looking spot. It 
is said that William Tell jumped from a boat at this point and 
made his escape while a prisoner of Gessler. After reaching 
Fluelen we landed and drove to Altorf, about half a mile distant, 
where we had lunch. This is a small town, and is celebrated 
as being the place where William Tell shot the apple from his 
son's head. There are two fountains some fifty yards apart, 
which tradition says occupy the places where Tell and his 
son stood. There is also a monument to Gessler here. 
Grimm, Ideler, and other German writers who are fond of shak- 
ing the foundations of history, endeavor to prove the narrative of 
Tell fabulous. A similar story, they say, is told of a Danish 
king, Harold, and a certain Tholko. But this has been accounted 
for. It was easy for the narrative of the Swiss hero to pass over 
to Denmark by means of the Hanse towns, and be nationalized by 
changing the names. Besides, it was only thirty years after 
Tell's alleged death (1388) that the first chapel was erected to 
him, and during the same year the spot was visited by one 
hundred and fourteen persons who had been acquainted with 
Tell. All the old chroniclers who wrote at or near the time 
agree on this point. Schiller, in his well-known tragedy, has 
done little more than copy the accounts of these old writers. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 283 

"We returned to the steamer, and would have had a pleasant 
sail down the lake if the boat had been less crowded, reaching 
the hotel at five o'clock, just in time for dinner. 

18^^, Sunday. — The morning was warm, and the atmosphere 
beautifully clear. The reflection of the sun as it shimmered on 
the snow-covered peaks of the mountains, which rose up in the 
distance, gave them the appearance of burnished silver. We 
enjoyed the view from our windows, and wished ourselves 
nearer to them. We attended services at the English church, but 
owing to the situation of our seats we could not hear the sermon. 
The minister was a very poor reader, and by no means a good 
speaker. In the afternoon we took quite a long walk, passing by 
the Lucerne Lion (from a model by Thorwaldsen), commemorative 
of the Swiss guards of Louis XVI., who were killed in Paris 
August 10, 1792. It is cut into the side of a perpendicular rock 
which extends up to the top of the hill, and is a colossal lion, dying 
amidst weapons and armoreal bearings, the right paw resting upon 
an escutcheon bearing the arms of France, which he is no longer 
capable of defending. The lion is twenty-eight and a-half feet in 
length, by eighteen in height. It is a fine work of art, and well 
worthy of admiration ; but no feeling of sympathy rose in my 
bosom for the mercenaries in whose memory it was erected. Of 
all the detestable characters in history — those who sell tlwnselves' 
to fight the battles of others are among the most detestable. 

\M. — Having arranged for a carriage, and everything being in 
readiness, we left at seven o'clock a.m. for the Giessbach Falls, via 
the Brunig Pass, to Brienz. The early part of the drive was pleas- 
ant — the road following the shores of the lake to the head of one of 
its branches — but later it was excessively warm. The scenery 
along the road varies from the bold and savage to that softened 
down by the lower hills and smiling meadows, prettily laid out in 
little fields, and interspersed with numerous chalets and towns, 
with occasional small lakes and restless little rivei-s hurrying on 
and passing away like time. We stopped at Lungern, a small 
town, where we had a poor dinner; I entered into conversation 



284 JOURNAL OF A TOUE THKOUGH 

with two Scotch gentlemen pedestrians, whom we had passed on 
the road, and learned that they had gone over Switzerland several 
times on foot, and had "done" most of the mountain excursions 
in Scotland also. The longest day's walk they had made was 
thirty-six miles, averaging three and a half miles an hour. The 
English and Scotch travel a great deal on foot, and are matchless 
walkers ; they pride themselves on making excursions in this man- 
ner, and I have no doubt they enjoy them far more than those 
who ride, as it gives them a much better idea of the country. 

We reached Brienz, on the lake of the same name, in the after- 
noon. I had some trouble with the driver, who refused to deliver 
the baggage unless I paid his bill, which was made out for more 
than the price we had agreed upon before starting. I was deter- 
mined not to submit to fraud, and when he saw this he took it 
from the carriage and received his money. This imposition is fre- 
quently practised by these fellows in Switzerland, and parties 
generally pay rather than have trouble. We crossed over from here 
to Giessbach Falls, on the opposite side of the lake, in a row boat, 
and on landing we had to make a long and tiresome ascent to 
reach the hotel, which is situated in a little gorge running a short 
distance back into the mountain, where there is just room enough 
for the buildings and grounds. It is surrounded on all sides, ex- 
cept a small opening toward the lake, by high and almost perpen- 
dicular mountains, which are covered with trees. There is no way 
of reaching the hotel except by foot. 

The falls are picturesque and beautiful, descending from the 
summit of a high mountain by five or six leaps, and they are 
spanned by several small bridges. A zigzag path leads up to the 
first leap. Their principal attraction, however, is an illumination 
which is made every night, producing an effect which cannot be 
described nor compared to anything else. At a given signal the 
different leaps are instantaneously lighted, each differing in color, 
and in the twinkling of an eye these colors are changed — silver, 
pink, green, red, and violet — the contrast between the colors of 
the different falls ; the brilliancy of the lights as they rest upon the 



GEEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 285 

foaming waters and throw a glare over the dark sides of the 
mountains, the ''darkness made visible" above, around, and every- 
where beyond its reach, present a scene which cannot be pictured 
by the most vivid imagination. The whole flashes out as instan- 
taneously as it burst forth, Howie was enraptured, and May and 
Sade became enthusiastic ; the scene was truly fairy-like. 

20tk. — We hurried through a not very inviting breakfast, and at 
half-past eight o'clock were on board the little steamer. A run 
of two hours brought us to Interlachen. We drove quite a 
distance up the side of the mountain to the Hotel Jungfraublich, 
a new and well-furnished hotel, very beautifully situated, but 
found it full, and drove down to the Hotel des Alps, a large but 
most miserably kept house. Interlachen (between the lakes) is 
composed principally of hotels and boarding houses, and shops 
where woodv/ork is sold. It is by no means an attractive place, 
but as it is a sort of headquarters for numerous excursions, it is 
generally crowded during the season. 

It is situated between the lakes of Brienz and Thun. There is 
a good view of the Jungfrau (young wife, or young maiden), the 
summit of which is perpetually covered with snow, particularly 
pure and white, and hence I believe its name. After dinner I 
took quite a long walk up the mountain side, and returned much 
fatigued. 

2\sL — We had an early breakfast, and left for an excursion to 
Lauterbrunnen and Grin del wald. The drive to the first-named 
place was around the foot of the mountain, the road following a 
narrow valley, with a small river running through it. We had 
some good views during the drive ; we went as far as the Staub- 
bach cascade, said to be the highest in Europe, but the volume 
of water was so small as to make it appear almost insignificant. 
The water is blown into spray, which resembles dust before it 
reaches the bottom. We returned by the same road, over which 
we came for a mile or two, when we turned up another valley which 
extends to Grindelwald. The road is not good, and in some 
places is hardly safe ; the rocks hang over it at an immense height, 



286 JOUKNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

and sometimes after heavy rains avalanches come down the steep 
sides of the mountains, filh'ng up the road and destroying houses. 
One, as we heard, occurred last spring, which destroyed two houses. 
The scenery, however, repays one for the risk in passing over the 
road ; we had good views of the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg, and 
other mountains covered with perpetual snow. There are two 
glaciers at Grindelwald, about a mile distant from each other, 
and separated by a mountain. We visited the upper one, which 
fills the valley lying between the Wetterhorn and the Schrekhorn 
and the Mettenberg ; and passed through the grotto, or long tunnel 
cut through the clear, crystal-like ice, which was beautiful for the 
prismatic colors which it reflected. These were the first glaciers 
we had seen, and as in most cases when a great deal is expected, 
we were disappointed, at least in our first view ; but when we 
stood at the foot and looked up at the enormous body of ice which 
filled the entire valley and had been there for centuries, we were 
impressed with a sense of its vastness and duration ; it is about 
half or three-quarters of a mile wide at the lower end, and about 
six miles wide near its source. Sade and I went a short distance 
up and over the cold and slippery surface, and looked down into 
some of the deep and dangerous crevasses ; I say dangerous, be- 
cause a slip on the smooth ice might precipitate one into the 
abyss, from which escape would be impossible. Aime Mouron, 
a young clergyman from Vevay, fell into one of the fissures on the 
lower glacier on the 31st August, 1821, and perished. A monu- 
mental stone is erected to his memory in the cemetery here. This 
glacier is distant about an hour's walk. May and Sade were 
carried in chaises a porteurs^ while I walked on ahead, reaching 
there some time before them. The change in the temperature 
as we approached the glacier was very great ; it was like going 
suddenly from the tropics into the Arctic regions. Many per- 
sons who are imprudent suffer serious consequences from the 
sudden change. We returned to the Hotel I'Aigle, where we 
had an excellent dinner, which, after our exercise, we relished 
much. We ordered the carriage to be in readiness, so that 



GREAT BRITAIN AND 0]S[ THE CONTINENT. 287 

we could start immediately after dinner, but the thunder which 
had been muttering in the distance now burst over our heads, 
and the quick flashes of lightning and big drops of rain all 
warned us of an impending storm. As the roads here are 
always liable to be obstructed by heavy rains, we were advised 
not to start. We had left little Howie at Interlachen and felt a 
good deal of anxiety about him, as he had never been separated 
from all of us at any one time. I prepared a telegram to send to 
him, but after waiting a while the clouds broke a little, and we 
determined to go. I felt a good deal of apprehension about 
getting down safe, and although it was raining quite hard I took 
my seat on the box with the driver. We proceeded down the 
valley very cautiously, having a boy with us to lock the wheels 
at each steep descent, and although it was very dark during the 
latter part of the drive we managed to get down safely. The 
road for a considerable part of the way runs along the banks of 
the river, and its turbulent waters, as they dashed angrily along 
against the rocks, elicited more than one wish that they were a 
little further away. 

On our return we found Howie in bed, and sleeping as sweetly 
as though conscious of the presence of protecting angels around 
his pillow. His nurse had told him that we would be back soon, 
and with a child's faith he had retired upon this promise. It was 
the first night he had ever gone to bed without some one of the 
family being with him. As I looked upon him resting so peace- 
fully, I thought of the following little prayer that I had written 
for him a year or two ago. It seemed as if he must have fallen 
asleep repeating in full faith the second verse : 

The day is gone, my play is o'er, 

And I must go to bed, 
But must not close my eyes in sleep 

Till I my prayers have said. 

And while I slumber, Lord, I pray. 

That angels may be near, 
For I am but a little child. 

And need their tender care. 



288 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

When cheerful morning comes again, 

Ere from my bed I rise, 
O Father ! lead my thoughts to Thee, 

Who dwellest in the skies. 

And teach me always to be good, 

My parents to obey ; 
To love Thee, Lord, with my whole heart, 

And never from Thee stray. 

After tea a company of itinerant Tyrolese musicians, dressed 
in the costume of the country, gave a concert (vocal and instru- 
mental) in the parlor of the hotel. Some of their performances 
were very curious. One of the performers on the flageolet used 
his nose instead of his mouth in filling it, 

22d. — We left in the stage at 10 a. m., and after a drive of a 
mile, we reached the upper end of Lake Thun, where we em- 
barked on a steamer for the town of Thun, at the lower end of 
the lake. On arriving, we went directly to the cars and were 
soon on our way to Berne, which city we reached in an hour, 
and remained over one train for the purpose of seeing something 
of the town. Having no time to lose, we engaged a carriage 
and drove through some of the principal streets ; we alighted at 
the entrance of the " platform," a very diminutive promenade, 
with some fine shade-trees, under which are seats. From this lofty 
terrace six snowy peaks of the Bernese Alps are visible. The 
view is said to be best at sunset, especially when from a peculiar 
state of the atmosphere the slanting rays are reflected from the 
anows in hues of glowing pink. 

"Who first beholds those everlasting clouds, 
******* 
Those mighty hills, so shadowy, so sublime, 
As rather to belong to heaven than earth, 
But instantly receives into his soul 
A sense, a feeling that he loses not, 
A something that informs him 'tis an hour 
Whence he may date henceforward and tov G\evT' —Rogers. 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 289 

We had some refreshments at a small cafe built on a corner 
of the grounds, after which we visited the cathedral, situated 
just at the entrance, and went hurriedly through it. There was 
nothing about it worthy of special note. We then drove over 
the river to pay a visit to the celebrated bears of Berne, which are 
kept in a handsomely-built pit. Berne derives its name from 
Baren, the G-erman for bear. Figures of this animal are seen not 
only on the armorial bearings of the canton, but on many of the 
houses, fountains, and other places. A number of living bears 
have been kept at the expense of the city for centuries past. We 
threw them some pieces of cake and fruit, which they speedily 
devoured, and a sleek young Bruin was very importunate in his 
solicitations for a renewal of our favors — standing on his hind feet 
and holding up his fore paws imploringly toward us, as much as 
to say " A little more, if you please." 

We returned to the station in time for the three o'clock train, 
and in about an hour were at Freiburg. We stopped at the Hotel 
Zahringer, a most excellent hojise. There is a piazza in the rear, 
from which we had a magnificent view, taking in the two suspen- 
sion bridges, one of which is the longest in the world — nine hun- 
dred and five feet, and spanning a chasm of great depth. After 
dinner I took a walk, passing over the lower suspension bridge, 
which quivered and vibrated to such an extent as to make 
one dizzy ; this was caused by some wagons crossing at the same 
time. I returned quite tired, and at 8 o'clock we all went to the 
cathedral to hear the celebrated organ, which is said to be one of 
the grandest in Europe. This is one of the few things of celebrity 
that exceeded our expectations ; to describe it is far beyond ray 
power. The imitation of the human voice was so nearly perfect 
as to defy detection. A thunderstorm was most admirably rep- 
resented, the rustling of the leaves and the moaning of the forest 
as the winds swept through them, the sound of voices chanting, 
which were heard between the blasts, the pattering of the rain 
against the houses and the fearful peals of thunder reverberating 
all around, were such as to make one shudder and feel that he was 

13 



290 \ JOURNAL OF A TOUE THROUGH ^ 

indeed in the midst of a terrific storm. The chanting heard during 
the intervals of the storm was more solemn and impressive than 
anything I had ever heard. A funeral dirge was also performed, 
and the tolling of the bells was admirably represented. The per- 
formance lasted an hour, and we all felt that this single enter- 
tainment repaid us for crossing the Atlantic. 

We met at the hotel here Mr. L , of Baltimore, and Miss 

J, n, of New York, whom we had seen before in Italy. 

2Sd. — We left at noon for Lausanne, and arrived at 2 o'clock. 
We could not get rooms at the Beau Eivage, a fine and popular 
hotel situated near the town, and so went to the Faucon. It 
rained in the afternoon and we were prevented from driving around 
the city. From our windows we had a good view of Lake Leman, 
or the Lake of Geneva, which lay spread out before us like a 
bright mirror. In the evening I took a stroll through the city, 
passing over the great aqueduct which spans a deep ravine, and 
unites the two parts of the town, which is situated mostly on 
hills. The population is about twenty thousand. 

24^/2. — After breakfast we drove through some of the principal 
streets and the suburbs ; the views from some points are good, 
but were partially obstructed by the clouds and rain which came 
down occasionally. We stopped for a few minutes at the cathe- 
dral, which is a plain and unpretending edifice, and returned to 
the hotel to settle our bill and get to the station in time for the 
noon train for Vevay ; we arrived in an hour and went to the 
Hotel Monnet, where we had telegraphed the day before for 
rooms, but found it full ; they had, however, engaged rooms at 
the Senn, which proved to be a second-class hotel. Vevay is 
another overrated place ; it is an old town with narrow and badly 
paved streets, and is anything but clean. I cannot conceive why 
persons should come here to spend their summers. It must be 
owned, however, that the town is situated at a point on the lake 
where the scenery is more beautiful than at most other places. 
We are told in the life of St. Bernard, that he travelled all day 
the road that winds along the shore of this lake in such deep ab- 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 291 

straction, that when in the evening he heard his fellow pilgrims 
loud in their praises of its scenery, he came to himself sufficiently 
to ask, " Where was it ?" 

2oth, Sunday. — May was not well and remained in her room 
during the morning. Sade, Howie, and I went to the English 
church, where we heard a good sermon. 

A Milanese family occupied rooms adjoining ours, and their 
large black dog the hall in front of our doors. One of them was 
sick, and I got the idea that it was of cholera, as that fearful dis- 
ease was then in Milan. We therefore determined to leave, and, 
procuring a carriage, we drove to Chexbres, a few hours distant, 

where our good friends, the S s, of Florence, were spending the 

summer. As we approached the hotel, Mrs. S and Cad came 

out to meet us, and extended to us their usual hearty welcome. 
The house was nearly full, and .Cad, with her habitual good nature, 
relinquished her room to Sade. May and I were put in the third 
story, while Howie and his nurse were on the first floor. We were 
very comfortably fixed, and soon felt at home. 

26^/2. — We spent most of the day in the house, or under the 
shade trees on the grounds, Sade and Howie joining in several 
games of croquet, an amusement which they both appeared to 
like. 

21th. — May, Sade, and I, accompanied by Mrs. S , Daisy, 

and Mrs. C , of New York, made an excursion to the Castle 

of Chillon, which had an interest to us from Byron's Prisoner 
of Chillon. We drove down to Vevay, where we took the cars, 
and half an hour's run brought us to the old castle. It is built 
on a rock running out into the lake, leaving only a small space 
between it and the almost perpendicular sides of the mountain. 
We entered it and went through the prison, a dark and gloomy 
dungeon ; we saw the pillar to which Bonivard, Byron's Pris- 
oner of Chillon, was chained for six years, and also went through 
the torture-room, in which are the remains of the instruments of 
torture once used on the unfortunate inmates. Then in the room 
in which the condemned remained the night before their execu- 



292 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

tion ; and another containing an opening with a stairway leading 
down from it of only three steps ; the victims started down in the 
dark, and the fourth step plunged them into the lake, from which 
they never came again. The place would be of little interest 
but for its historical associations. We returned in the cars as 
far as Vernex (Montreux), where we dined. The scenery 
around this part of the lake is varied, some of it sublime ; 
there are numerous little towns scattered along ,• in nearly all of 
them are hotels, which are generally crowded during the summer. 
On our return we stopped a short time at Vevay, where we pur- 
chased some little presents for Howie, to-day being his ninth 
birthday. We have promised that if he is a good boy he shall 
have a watch as soon as we get to Geneva. Until then he must 
be content with this little piece of impromptu poetry : 

Nine summers have passed, with ttieir sunshine and flowers, 

Nine winters lie low in the grave, 
Since there came to our home a sweet little boy. 

Who calls himself "Howard the brave." 

He came when the summer was dying of age. 

And the shadows of autumn were near, 
Like a bright dream of joy for the winter of life, 

And we called him Howard the dear. 

For this ninth birthday a watch he will get 

If he'll promise his parents to mind ; 
For the lessons they'll give, if he studies them right, 

Will teach him to be Howard the kind. 

Though he might not the man he was named after follow, 

And live for the prisoner lowly. 
May he lift up the souls that in wickedness lie, 

And so be Howard the holy. 

When ended his journey and the days of his years 

Have fallen like leaves of the wood, 
And their record is made, may men find on its page 

The name of Howard the good. 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 293 

We reached the hotel at about nine o'clock, and found Howie 

preparing for bed ; but on hearing that his Aunty S , as he 

always calls Mrs. S , had a present for him, and we had sopie 

fireworks, he was very soon dressed and out. With the other 
children he enjoyed the little display of fireworks as only chil- 
dren can enjoy. It was also the ninth birthday of Mrs. W 's 

little son, who with her family were spending the summer here. 
It seemed a singular coincidence that these two little boys, both 
of New York and born on the same day, should have met for the 
first time on their birthday away here in Switzerland. Chexbres 
is a small and very old town, situated high up on the side of the 
mountain. The hotel is some mile or two above the village, and 
stands alone, commanding a splendid view of the lake, which lies 
far down below. I do not recollect the altitude of the site of the 
hotel, but think it is two thousand feet above the lake. 

28th. — At one o'clock we bade adieu to our friends, expecting, 
however, to see them in a few days at Geneva, and were soon en 
route for that place, where we arrived at 4 o'clock p. m., and 
stopped at the Hotel de la Paix, beautifully situated at the foot 
of the lake. We had a good view of Mont Blanc, when the 
clouds and fogs did not intervene. The scenery along the road 
from Chexbres to Geneva is very grand. In the evening we called 

on Mrs. H , of New York, an old friend of May's, who with 

her husband and children is now living here. 

29th. — We spent the greater part of* the day in looking at 
watches, as we had several to buy. The weather is cloudy, and 
a gale has been blowing down the lake since last evening, which 
makes it very uncomfortable. After dinner May and Sade called 
for Mrs. H , when they all went out shopping. 

SOth. — We gave Messrs. Guedin Magnin & Co. an order for 
watches for each of us, and spent quite a long time in selecting 
the monograms for the cases, and in choosing some bracelets and 
other articles for ourselves, and some presents for friends. We 
found the prices here higher than we had expected. The day was 
bright, and we had a good view of Mont Blanc, with its snow- 



294: JOUENAL OF A TOUB THEOUGH 

capped peaks, around which the snow storms hold carnival at mid- 
summer. 

Slst. — Another bright day and very warm; we finished our 
purchases, and after attending to some money matters, and indulg- 
ing in some poorly flavored ices, we returned to the hotel. I wrote 
gome letters and then prepared for dinner. 



GREAT BRITAIN A2^D ON THE CONTINENT. 295 



SEPTEMBER. 

1st, Sandaij. — Sade, Howie, and I went to tlie Church of Eng- 
land in the morning, May not feeling well remained within. The 
minister was quite an old man, and a very eloquent speaker. I 
was more than ordinarily interested in the sermon, which was from 
2 Kings, 5th chapter, part of 11th verse, '* Behold I thought." 
The principal argument was that mankind, like Naaman, 
are not inclined to do what God had commanded, but 
think their own ways of escaping from their moral leprosy 
better than his. After enumerating many of men's ways, 
iie spoke of the folly of speculating on a matter which had 
been set forth so plainly, and more particularly so as the plan 
of salvation was of God ; and man, he said, who could not under- 
stand even his own nature would be guilty of a fatal folly in 
attempting to fathom the nature or attributes of God, and must 
therefore receive the plan of redemption as revealed to him in the 
Bible. He made an'earnest and impressive appeal to the congre- 
gation to search the scriptures, which taught them that simple 
faith on their part in the promises therein contained, would lead 
them to happiness and to Heaven. 

2d. — We rose at a very early hour, had breakfast, and left at 
7 o'clock A. M. for Chamounix. The early part of the drive, 
was cool and pleasant, but from eleven to three it was warm and 
dusty. We enjoyed the drive, however, as the scenery was grand, 
and the first half of the road was good. We stopped several 
times to rest the horses, dining at Sallenches ; where we had a 
glorious view of Mont Blanc with its hoary sides and summit; 
altliough it is twelve miles distant in an air line, it seemed as 
if towering up almost over us. It is difficult to imagine a more 
sublime spectacle than the three peaks. They have remained 



296 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THROUGH 

covered with ice and snow ever since they were first thrown up, 
and will never put off their white robes till the end comes. A 
short time after leaving Sallenches, we left the valley and com- 
menced the ascent of the mountains, which was very tedious. I 
walked up most of the steepest parts. Our horses were not very 
good, and we were two hours behind the time agreed upon for our 
arrival. After seven o'clock it became very cold, and was quite 
dark. We reached the village of Ghamounix at eight o'clock, and 
drove to the Imperial, where we had telegraphed for rooms, 
which we found all ready, and we were glad enough to get into 
them. We retired early and slept soundly. 

3d. — The morning was clear and the sun shone brightly and glo- 
riously upon the pure-robed summit of Mont Blanc — as a writer 
has said : *'That pure white throne of ever-during Arctic 
winter which even the fervid solar beams of July and August have 
no power to dissolve."* The sight was indeed glorious, and memory 
must fail and pass away before it can be forgotten. 

" I live not in myself, bnt I become 
Portion of that around me, and to me 
High mountains are a feehng, but the hum 
Of human cities, tortures ! " 

We had an early breakfast, and soon after were all mounted on 
mules, and with our guides started for La Mer de glace (sea of ice), 
which, after two hours of tedious climbing up and winding around 
the sides of the mountains, over a narrow and in places a danger- 
ous road, we reached, stopping at Montanvert, where there is a 
small inn for shelter and refreshments. From here we could look 
down upon La Mer de glace,| which is among the most cele- 
brated of the Alpine glaciers. The great valley of ice, shut in 
between the immense stone walls running up in spires and min- 



* We should not suppose, however, that there is any spot on the Alps 
where the snow never melts. It has been proved that under the influ- 
ence of a summer sun, at noon, it melts even on the top of Mont Blanc. 



GBEAT BEITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 29*/ 

arets above the clouds, gives one a true idea of the awful and 
sublime. The view of the mountains here is grand beyond the 
power of language to describe ; far up among the clouds the 
snowy ridges and peaks rise in majestic grandeur, mantled with 
snow and ice which has covered them for ages. The mountains 
of needle shape, called Aiguilles^ some of whose sides are so steep 
that snow cannot rest upon them, stand prominent among the 
group. They are rude cones, sometimes alone and again in groups 
rising thousands of feet above the Mer de glace, and so nearly 
perpendicular as to be for ever beyond the reach of man. The 
Aiguille du Dru is one of the most elevated, and is said to be five 
thousand feet above this glacier. We descended by a steep and 
difficult path which leads down to the edge, and walked over its 
great cold bosom, and looked down into the deep and ever-chang- 
ing chasms. These crevices are constantly opening and closing, 
so that without experienced guides it would be dangerous to ven- 
ture on them. In appearance this glacier reminds one of a mighty 
river suddenly congealed in the midst of a tempest in some parts, 
while in others there are innumerable spires of ice of great height. 
Tourists generally walk over the glacier at this point and return 
by the Mauvais Pas and the Chapeau on the opposite side, return- 
ing by a road passing around the lower end of the glacier. A 
part of the path is cut out of the walls of the rock, and is a thou- 
sand feet above the ice, and barely wide enough to walk on. We 
did not care to pass over it, as there is nothing to be seen more 
than on this side. We scrambled up the hill, the guides aiding 
the ladies and Howie, and after resting a while, we started for the 
village. The ride down was tedious and fatiguing. Sade and I 
gave our mules to the guides and walked the entire distance down. 
The temperature at Montanvert was low, and the winds so cold 
that we were glad to wrap our overcoats and cloaks closely around 
us. This glacier is more than twenty miles in length, and at 
Montanvert varies from a half to a mile in width. 

The same writer, before quoted, says: "An intelligent de- 
scription of a glacier is not an easy thing. It is not, as one might 

13* 



298 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

suppose, a smooth and glassy surface like that on a quiet congealed 
lake — possibly in the more elevated regions it might have that 
appearance, but in the lower regions it is a continuous series of 
masses, connected indeed below, but so separated above by fissures, 
that the portions appeared like vast white rocks — white originally, 
but fine fragments of granite and other rocks, disintegrated by the 
weather, on the exposed cliffs, and blown down upon the surface, 
give them the soiled and dingy aspect which they present." The 
sides of the crevices, when they first open, are of a blue and green 
tinge, and as clear as crystal. The lower end of the glacier is 
called Glacier des Bois, and from it the river Arveron takes its 
source and rushes from under it with great power. It forms a 
junction a very short distance below with the Arve, which has its 
source in the glaciers of the Col-de-Balme. A mile or two lower 
down the valley is the Glacier des Boissons, which descends directly 
from Mont Blanc It is nearly as large as the Mer de glace — is 
much more beautiful from being a purer white. It is so filled with 
fissures and spurs as to make its surface inaccessible. It resem- 
bles a forest of columns and spires, some of which are more than a 
hundred feet high. The village of Chamounix is small, and is com- 
posed chiefly of hotels and shops. The valley is not very long, and 
varies from a half mile to a mile and a half in width, and is chiefly 
attractive for its wild and grand surroundings. The gorge which 
leads into the valley is so narrow and its sides so nearly perpen- 
dicular, as only to afford a sufficient space for the road, and indeed 
this is in places cut out of the sides of the mountains. This gorge 
is by some said to have been inaccessible until a comparatively 
recent date, up to which time the valley was unknown to the world : 
but the Benedictine convent was established here as early as the 
eleventh century. 

^th. — I was quite unwell during the night, and rose at about 
nine o'clock not much refreshed. The sun was shining on the 
sides of Mont Blanc, but the summit w^as wrapt in clouds. After 
breakfast I walked up the mountain to a small chalet near a 
cascade, but was not repaid for the fatigue. I returned to the 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 299 

valley and walked about half way up to Montanvert, just for the 
sake of walking. The sun was obscured by the clouds, and it 
was quite pleasant. After dinner I took another long walk, going 
to "the Glacier des Bois, but on reaching it found that 

•* The day had gone and darkness 
Feu from the wings of night, 
As a feather is -wafted downward 
From an eagle in his flight." 

The twilight is very short in the valley, and darkness comes 
almost suddenly upon it. I hastened back to the hotel, feeling 
that I had taken quite enough exercise for one day. 

6th. — The mountains were all enveloped in clouds, which de- 
scended in some places so low as to rest upon the bosom of the 
valley. After breakfast I started again for the Glacier des Bois, 
going up the right bank of the Ai-veron to where it dashes out 
from under the glacier as reckless and as furious as a long-caged 
lion, who has burst his bars and feels himself free. I crossed 
over this impetuous little river on a foot bridge, and went into the 
ice grotto, which is large, but in respect of the cleanliness and trans- 
parency of the ice does not compare with the one at Grindelwald. 
On ray way up I gathered some flowers growing among the rocks 
in the old bed of the river. They differed from any we had yet 
seen. 

Along the sides of the terminus of the glacier are innumerable 
masses of rocks and stones, in places extending over the surface, 
and giving it the appearance of rocks and soil, or the sides of 
the mountains. These are called Moraines^ The deposits fall 
from the surrounding heights, and are borne along with the glacier, 
accumulating as they go. This glacier has pushed before it vast 
heaps of sand, gravel, rocks, and stones ; some of immense size 
forming high mounds in advance of the glacier. On my return, . 
May, Sade, and Howie drove up to the des Bois. 

Two gentlemen of very dark color, and peculiarly dressed, sat 
near us at the dinner table, and our curiosity was considerably 



300 JOURNAL OP A TOUR THROUGH 

excited to know their nationality ; and the more so as they spoke 
English fluently, and as we saw from their conversation that they 
possessed more than an average intelligence. We were not grati- 
fied, however, until after they had left the table, when an English 
gentleman (who resided in the East Indies, and whose acquaint- 
ance we had made through little Howie) informed us that they 
were Parsees, descendants of the Chaldeans, who removed to India 
many years ago, and live there a distinct race. They are, as a class, 
a money-making people, and are possessed of great wealth, and cf 
late years have much influence. In religion they are Fire Wor- 
shippers, and would lose their lives rather than extinguish a light. 
When their friends die their bodies are fastened by wires on high 
poles, where they remain until the birds eat their flesh, after which 
the bones are burnt. These two were being educated in England 
for the law. They are beginning to mingle more with the East 
Indians and English than in former years. 

I learned the following particulars relative to the ascent of 
Mont Blanc, from Simon Pierre Benoit, a very intelligent guide 
who had just returned with a party. The time required by 
a good walker and climber to ascend and return is two days, as 
follows : To the Grands Mulcts five hours ; there is a house here 
where parties remain the first night, starting at three o'clock the 
following morning, reaching the top and returning the same day 
from the Grands Mulcts to the Petits Mulcts two hours, where 
they breakfast ; to the Grand Plateau three hours more ; from 
there to the Coradon, one hour and a half; Coradon to the sum- 
mit two hours ; total eleven and a half hours. There is no 
regular path, or way, as the ice and snow are changing constantly, 
and avalanches are frequent. The ascent has been much easier than 
usual this year. Ladders have to be taken as a general thing to 
aid in crossing the deep crevices and climb steep walls, but there 
has been no occasion to use them this jear. Six guides generally 
accompany a party of one or two ; they are all tied together, so 
that if one slips the others can hold him. Last year a party of 
two English gentlemen were ascending with six guides, three to 



GEEAT BBITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 301 

each gentleman. When near the summit an avalanche came down 
and carried one of the parties along with it, and all four were lost. 
When the news came the guides went up in force to search for the 
bodies. They traced their course down by blood ; cut away the 
avalanche and found the bodies of the three guides, but not the 
gentleman, as the ice had cut the ropes and he had been separated 
from them. The excursion is at all times attended with danger, 
and there is nothing to repay one for the peril and fatigue. 
Several ladies have ascended to the summit. 

Qth. — About 1 o'clock this morning we were awakened by a 
great noise in the streets. We heard people running and shouting 
in all directions. My first thought was that an accident had 
overtaken some party on Mont Blanc, and that this commotion 
was for the purpose of calling the guides together to go to the 
rescue. But on opening our windows we heard the cry, ^^ feu ! 
feu!feur^2iXidi^2iW?i light which went on increasing until the 
whole village was in a red glare. I dressed as quickly as possible 
and went into the street, where I discovered that the fire proceeded 
from a large and almost new building, situated on the edge of the 
village. The lower part had been occupied by families, and the 
upper part filled with hay, which had caught fire. Two small 
engines were throwing water upon it, while the guides, so accus- 
tomed to Alpine dangers as to be insensible to fear, were seen in 
and upon the building, doing all they could to extinguish the 
flames. But all efforts proved fruitless. The house and most of 
its contents were destroyed. The scene was an exciting one. All 
the villagers were very demonstrative on the occasion, men scream- 
ing and hurrying about, women running in every direction, some 
with children in their arms, others carrying furniture from the 
houses nearest the fire, others still were foolishly trying to pull 
pigs away from the fire instead of wisely endeavoring to drive 
them into it. Consequently these obstinate animals were squealing 
piteously because they were not permitted to be roasted. 

As there had been no conflagration at Chamounix for some time 
this calamity gave an opportunity for man and beast to experience 



302 JOUENAL OP A TOUE THEOUGH 

a new sensation. The monotony of peasant life was thus broken , 
and the village gossips now had a fresh and animating theme ; 
and to us, who had been awaked to see and not to save, the 
Alpine scenery wore a, strange aspect. The effect of the midnight 
illumination upon the valley and the surrounding mountains was 
grand ; but the scene was not enjoyed by us, for we reflected on 
the probable condition of the poor families at whose expense the 
illumination was made. 

We left at 6 o'clock in the morning for Geneva, and arrived 
at 5 p. M. The day was cool and the atmosphere was clear. On 
our way we had some good views of the mountains, and passed 
several towns well worthy of mention. But having undergone 
much fatigue, and not being well, I will have to pass them by in 
my journal, as we did in our carriage. 

1th. — We reposed on our chamounix laurels most of the day. 
Geneva is situated at the foot of Lake Leman, and on each side 
of the river Ehone. The two parts of the city are connected by 
numerous bridges, the largest of which is nearest the lake, and is 
a magnificent stone structure of great width and length. The 
river passes with fearful rapidity under these bridges and its blue 
waters in their impetuous course contrast beautifully with the 
quiet lake into which it empties itself above, and through which 
it passes. The water is very clear, and I could never tire of 
standing on the bridges and looking down on it. That part of the 
city fronting around the lake is exceedingly attractive ; the view 
from the balcony of our rooms can hardly be surpassed for beauty 
and variety. The handsome buildings, the wide streets and 
bridges, the bright clear lake, the Jura mountains seen west, and 
the Alps east, with the prince of mountains, Mont Blanc, tower- 
ing up in the distance in -the south-east, and the foot hills with 
their bright green fields and dotted over with houses, are too 
varied, grand, and beautiful, ever to fade from memory. Th^ 
streets in the old part of the city are narrow and filthy, and the 
occupants here are apparently on a par with the residents of the 
Five Points in New York. Geneva has a population of about 



GREAT. BKITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 303 

sixty thousand. Watches and jewelry are its principal exports, 
the greater part of the former, however, are manufactured in the 
mountains. Chaux de Fonds and Locle, are the towns where 
most of the watches are made. The Jurgensen watch, although 
marked Copenhagen, is made at Locle. There are no large manu- 
facturers. The different parts of the watches are made all through 
the mountains and brought to these two towns and sold, where 
they are selected and put together according to quality by Nardin, 
Jiirgensen, and other houses. There is a regular watch Exchange 
where the dealers meet daily for selling and buying. The females 
in this part of Switzerland and in Savoy, are noted for their 
industrious and frugal habits ; they seem never to be idle. They 
work in the fields, drive wagons, ride horses and mules as men 
ride, and when not otherwise occupied are always knitting. Those 
who work in factories knit on their way to and from them ; it is 
a rare thing to meet a female walking along the road, or see one 
driving cattle, or going to the fields, who is not knitting. They 
walk over the most uneven ground without stopping their needle 
for a moment. In Savoy the inhabitants are much more polite 
than in Switzerland. They never pass without saluting you, the 
men always raising their hats. When you leave the hotel the 
waiters go out to the carriage and bid you hon voyage. 

8th, Sunday. — We all attended services at the Church of Eng- 
land. The morning was oppressively warm. The church was 
crowded and our seats uncomfortable, which prevented our list- 
ening to the sermon with as much interest as we otherwise would 
have done. The sermon was from 2d Ephesians, 3d chapter, 5th 
to 9th verses, inclusive. 

There was great excitement during the afternoon in conse- 
quence of the expected arrival of Garibaldi, who was coming to 
attend the peace conference being held here. He arrived at six 
o' clock ; the city was decorated with flags, cannons were fired, 
and the whole town went out to meet him. He was escorted to 
the rooms where the conference was in session, preceded by a 
band of music. On reaching them he made a short speech from 



804 JOURNAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

the balcony, amid the acclamations of the crowd. He wore a 
red flannel shirt and had no coat on. This man, whose name is 
so familiar to us all, has proven himself a good soldier ;. he TYiay 
be a patriot ; but he is, beyond all controversy, a vain and very 
weak man, a mere cat's paw in the hands of the Eed Republicans. 
9M. — We spent the morning in shopping, and while in a glove 
store Garibaldi drove past in an open carriage, followed by crowds 
of men and boys, yelling and shouting at the top of their voices. 
We had a good view of him, and should have recognized him any- 
where by his pictures. The day was veiy warm, and we were 
glad to get back to the hotel, and remain there. 

lOM. — The weather still continues warm, notwithstanding it 
rained last night. May and Howie were both quite sick during 
the night, and remained in their beds the entire day. I was quite 
unwell, but kept up. 

Wth. — The doctor came in to see May and Howie, who seem 
no better this morning. He gave the former some medicine. Our 
Florence friends the S rs arrived to-day, and called on us. 

12M. — The doctor came again this morning, and finding no im- 
provement in the patients, gave them medicine. Later in the day 
they both felt much better. After dinner Sade and 1 drove to the 
Kothschild's villa, some mile or two from the city, but could not 
go through the grounds, as special days are set apart for visitors. 
We returned by Mount Brilliant and Sir Robert Peel's villa ; the 
drive was pleasant, and it was quite dark before we reached the 
hotel. We found the sick ones improving. 

\Zih. — May and Howie feeling much better we left at 3:30 
p. M. for Lyons, and arrived at 9:30' p. m., and stopped at the 
Hotel de I'Europa. The scenery along the route is grand ; the 
road follows the Rhine for quite a long distance, and then turns 
oiF through a pleasant valley, with high mountains on each 
side, some with vineyards, others rocky and barren. We passed 
quite a number of small towns, which seemed to be manufacturing 
places. 

\Mh. — ^We left at 7:45 a. m. for Vichy, arriving at about 3 • 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 305 

P. M. The day was cloudy and cool, and we all felt refreshed by 

the change. Having friends, Mr. and Mrs. H 1, at the Hotel 

Guilliermen, we engaged rooms there. The country for some four 
or five hours after leaving Lyons is varied with hills and valleys, 
and is quite picturesque ; after that it becomes flat and uninter- 
esting. We passed by a number of coal mines and manufacturing 
towns. 

15^/?, Sunday. — May felt quite unwell, and did not leave her bed. 
Sade, Howie, and I went to church and heard a good sermon from 
Song of Solomon, 4th chapter, 16th verse. The pulpit is supplied 
by the British Colonial Society, and this was the last service of 
the season. 

l^th. — After breakfast Mr. and Mrs. H. and ourselves drove 
to Cusset, a town about two miles distant. We continued our 
drive several miles beyond, and stopped at a small inn. Mr. H., 
Sade, and I, walked for some distance up the ravine, over a 
muddy path, to a place pointed to by sign boards as the "Cas- 
cades," but which proved to be a "sell," there being neither 
cascades nor anything resembling them. We returned to the 
carriages where we had left Mrs. H. and May — paid half a franc 
each for not seeing the cascades — had a glass of beer and cup of 
coffee, and then drove back to Vichy. At Cusset we visited two 
mineral springs, Mary and Elizabeth. At one of them is a bath- 
ing establishment, which is quite extensive. The grounds attached 
are small but quite pretty. 

\^th September to Ath October. — The regular course of treatment 
at Vichy requires twenty-one .days, and consists of taking a bath 
once and drinking the waters twice each day. Owing to our late 
arrival we could not go through the entire course, and indeed the 
weather had become so cool as to make it doubtful whether one 
would be benefited by the waters. Our time was spent in the 
usual routine, which although monotonous was enjoyed by us, as 
we all required rest. We were generally out at half-past seven, 
took two tumblers of water, half an hour intervening between 
each, then had a bath, the most luxurious imaginable, and rested 



306 JOURNAL OE A TOUR THROUGH 

until breakfast, which was served at ten o'clock. When that was 
finished we amused ourselves by walking, driving, reading, and 
writing, until three o'clock, when we took the water again, 
from different springs. May, Sade, and Mrs. H., having found 
a branch mercantile house from Nancy, with a large assortment 
of under clothing, embroideries, handkerchiefs, &c., concluded to 
make such purchases as they required here. This would give 
them more time at Paris, and as the season was nearly closed the 
establishment had put out cards offering their goods at a great 
sacrifice. They imagined they were getting bargains, but on look- 
ing into the matter found that the full season prices had been 
charged, and I had some difficulty in getting five per cent, off, 
although the bill was large. The weather was variable, but most of 
the time cold. There were some children at the hotel, and Howie 
amused himself at croquet with them, and with riding. We 
hired a pretty and gentle little Shetland pony, which was a pet 
of the place. Before mounting Howie would give him some lumps 
of sugar, which he was very fond of. He would follow him 
around like a dog ; on one occasion he went with him into the 
hall, and then into the dining-room, where he walked up to the 
table and helped himself to some sugar. 

Vichy is situated in a valley which is enclosed by an amphi- 
theatre of hills, covered with forest trees and vineyards, on the 
river Alii er, and is about two hundred and fifty miles from Paris. 
The place has been greatly improved by the present Emperor. The 
grounds fronting the river have been raised, and laid out in parks 
with extensive walks, shaded by^ trees, and ornamented with 
shrubbery and flowers. On a part of these grounds are the 
chalets of the Emperor, Empress, and the young prince. There 
is a Casino, a beautiful building, containing reading rooms, 
billiard rooms, and a large hall for concerts, which are of 
frequent occurrence during the season. These are accessible by 
subscription. There are some pleasant drives around Vichy, and 
the views from some of the hills are very good- The springs 
number eight, two of which are warm. The Grande Grille 



GEEAT BEITAIN AOT) ON THE CONTINENT. 307 

(107° Farenheit); PuitsChomel(112°); Mesdames (61°) ; Pare 
(71°) ; Hospital (87°) ; Hauterive (59°) ; Celestins (39°) ; and 
Lardy. I drank the Grande Grille in the morning and Celestins 
in the afternoon. May and Sade the Puits Ghomel, and Lardy and- 
Howie the Mesdames. Another, the Intermittent, is situated a short 
distance over the river ; this is not used, and is remarkable for 
throwing up a column some twelve or fifteen feet high once in 
every hour, and continuing about ten minutes. The two springs 
at Cusset, mentioned some pages back, constitute the whole of the 
celebrated Vichy springs. There are two bathing establishments 
near each other, a first and second class. The former is fitted 
up with every comfort and luxury, and if a bath can be enjoyed 
anywhere, it is here. The first class charges three francs, the 
second two. The second class is quite equal to any that we saw 
in Germany. The waters of the various springs do not differ 
materially, and are considered, and deservedly so, very efficacious 
in derangements of the liver, kidneys, bladder, gravel, diabetes, 
gout, and a variety of other diseases. They are excellent for 
indigestion, unsurpassed by any other waters in Europe, or perhaps 
the world. I have never received so much benefit from any treat- 
ment as from this. Vichy is not an expensive place, the charges 
are about twelve francs a day at first-class hotels. 

From October iih to November Qth. — We left at 10 a. m. on the 
4th for Paris, and arrived a little after dark. We had written for 
rooms at the Hotel Chatham, and went directly there, but remained 
only a few days, as our rooms were not exposed to the sun, and the 
house being full, we could get no others. Our friends, Mr. and 

Mrs. P 1 and party, were occupying apartments at No. 17 

Rue de la Paix, and informed us that a suite just under them 
had been vacated ; we engaged them and removed at once. 
The proprietor of the Chatham is very obliging, and one of the 
few honest hotel keepers that we have seen ; his is a very popu- 
lar house with Americans, and deservedly so. 

As we had to replenish our wardi'obe and make numerous pur- 
chases, much of our time was spent in shopping, an occupation 



308 JOUENAL OF A TOUE THEOUGH 

always unpleasant to me, and doubly so in Paris, where every 
shopkeeper will promise everything and do nothing. If you want 
a dozen suits of clothes finished in a day, you will be told that you 
shall certainly have them, and this promise will be renewed as 
often as you go to the place; and not unfrequently they will send 
a coat to your apartments large enough for a giant or small enough 
for a dwarf, as it may happen ; and when you go and inform them 
of the mistake, they will scold the man for his stupidity, telling 
you that he has taken your coat to a gentlemen who is about leav- 
ing, and his has been left with you. During all this time the 
scissors have not touched your cloth ; we had the greatest diffi- 
culty in getting our orders filled in time to pack. We made sev- 
eral visits to the Exposition — that world of itself, the magnitude 
and wonders of which one must see to realize. It is stated that 
to go through and examine all the articles would require six 
months, working eight hours each day. We, of course, could only 
get a sort of general and confused idea of the Fair, from the few 
visits we could spare the time to make. 

The Emperor of Austria arrived in Paris while we were here, 
and we had an opportunity of seeing him and the Emperor of 
France as they drove past us on the Boulevard des Capucins. A 
grand review of the troops took place a few days after, at the 
Bois de Boulogne, in honor of his visit, which far excelled the one 
we saw the year before at the same place. There were upwards 
of fifty thousand troops on the field, and nothing could be more 
graceful than their evolutions. We were fortunate in getting a 
position where we could see to the best advantage, and their move- 
ments showed the perfection of their military training. The 
review closed by a grand cavalry charge of ten thousand horsemen 
at full speed across the field, and it was the most exciting and 
beautiful sight I ever recollect to have seen. Dense crowds of 
spectators filled every available space, and yet the most perfect 
order prevailed; a bed of earth, about four feet in width, had 
been laid along one of the avenues in the Bois, each side of this 
was thronged to the edge with spectators. A cavalry regiment 



GREAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 309 

returning to Paris, passed over this in single file and at full speed. 
The falling of a horse would have killed and injured some of those 
standing near. I have seen on the Pacific Coast, Indians, 
Mexicans, and South Americans, perform wonderful feats of 
horsemanship, but I never saw better riding than this. Altogether 
it was a sight too magnificent to describe, and the equal of which 
I shall probably never see again. 

We met a great many friends in Paris, most of whom, like our- 
selves, were preparing to return home, and like us were as busy 

as they could be. Mrs. B e and her daughter Miss Lottie, 

were, however, exceptions, they having recently arrived to join'their 
son and brother, who has been more than a year on the continent. 
They are animated with bright anticipations at the very pleasant 

prospect before them. Mrs. B is a lady of a highly cultivated 

mind, and with her fine appreciative taste for the beautiful has 
a rich treat in store. We had hoped for an opportunity of 
visiting a number of places which we had not seen, and also of 
revisiting the galleries of the Louvre and the Luxemburg, as we 
should perhaps have enjoyed the pictures much more than during 
our first visit, but time would not admit of it. A six months' resi- 
' dence among the gems of the old masters in Italy increases one's 
interest in jointings wonderfully, and enables one to appreciate 
and enjoy works of real merit. To-morrow we expect to start on 
our homeward journey, and without carrying out our original 
programme, which was to have gone into Spain in the early part of 
the winter, and later to Alexandria and Cairo, ascended the Nile, 
travelled through the Holy Land, spending some time in Jerusalem ; 
and on our return to have visited Greece and Constantinople, and 
from the latter place up the Danube to Vienna, then to St. Peters- 
burg, in Russia, and across to Stockholm via Finland through 
Norway and Sweden, and over to Hamburg, finishing up in time 
to have returned home in August of next year. We had looked 
forward with a great deal of pleasure to this tour, and were sorely 
disappointed that we had to return without making it. To visit 
the Holy Land has been the dream of my life, and had I known 



310 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

that we would have been compelled to return home this fall, we 
would have gone there last winter. 

1th. — We were up at an early hour, for to-day we are to bid 
adieu to Paris — bright and sunny Paris, the fairest city in the 
world, standing in its resplendent beauty without a rival. Who 
ever left Paris without a regret, a desire to return, to stroll through 
its grand Boulevards; to visit the Champs Elysees and seethe 
crowds of gay equipages passing along, the happy-faced pedestrians 
moving about or seated under the shade, and the joyous children 
frolicking around or in front of the Guignols; to drive through the 
Bois de Bologne, where art has contributed so much toward beau- 
tifying nature : to saunter down the Eue de Eivoli into the Palais 
Eoyal or through the Rue de la Paix, in the evening, looking 
into the shop windows, brilliantly lighted and sparkling with gems 
and precious stones ; by the almost innumerable cafes with their 
little tables in front surrounded by men and women from every 
quarter of the globe, chatting away and sipping their coffee ; or to 
the Place de la Concorde, with its beautiful fountains and grand 
old obelisks brought thither from Egypt ; through the gardens of 
the Tuileries with their pretty walks, statuary, and fountains ; or 
loiter among the beautiful paintings and statuary in the galler- 
ies of the Louvre and the Luxemburg "? Who that has seen all 
these can ever forget them or think of them without a lingering 
wish to see them again ? Farewell, beautiful Paris I thou art a 
picture, one side of which is indeed beautiful to look upon — we 
have seen only this and we have admired, nay, almost worshipped 
its unsurpassed loveliness. The other, that dark and repulsive 
side which cannot be known at a glance, must be studied long 
before it is understood ; if we had looked upon that, we might 
have left with fewer regrets. Again, farewell, our faces are now 
turned away from thee ; soon the broad Atlantic, with its waves, 
like eternity, ever rolling on, will divide us, and we can behold 
thy beauty only through the dim vista of memory. 

** Farewell ! a word that must be and hath been — 
A sound which makes us linger ; — yet, farewelll" 



GEEAT BRITAIN AND ON THE CONTINENT. 311 

We left at about 8 o'clock, Therese, the femme de chambre, 
who had been with us more than a year, accompanied us to the 
depot. We were anxious to take her with us, and she was as 
anxious to come, but her relatives were not willing that she should 
leave them'. She had become much attached to Howie and he to 
her, and their parting in the cars was really affecting. She gave 
way to her French nature, and wept as if her heart would burst. 
Howie, poor little fellow, was as deeply affected. May cried and 
Sade caught the contagion, and I escaped it only by a strong effort 
of the will. We reached Havre after twelve and went directly on 
board the St. Laurent. After seeing that our baggage, which had 
been sent down before us, was safe on board, we drove up into the 
city in company with our friends, Col. J. D. Fry and wife, of San 
Francisco, who came with us from Paris, and had dinner ; after 
which we purchased a few small articles and some fruits, and re- 
turned to the steamer. When we had arranged as far as we could 
for the voyage, we retired and rested as comfortably as it is pos- 
sible to rest in narrow berths. We did not see much of Havre, 
but a part of what we did see was very beautiful. At an early hour 
the next morning we weighed anchor and steamed for Brest, where 
we arrived the following night. The weather was pleasant and 
the channel was as smooth as a lake. A large number of passen- 
gers embarked at Brest, and on the afternoon of the ninth we 
again weighed anchor and turned our prow toward New York. 
The weather continued pleasant, and for two days we had fair 
winds and made good runs. On Monday night, the third day 
out, we encountered as evere gale, which gave us much anxiety, as 
a part of the machinery was defective. During the night we 
shipped a number of seas and the water came down in torrents 
into the cabin, which added much to our discomfort. The St. 
Laurent was built for a side-wheel but afterward changed into a 
screw. She has more breadth of beam than screws generally, and 
consequently rolls less, and is a fine sea boat. The storm abated 
in the morning, but we had strong headwinds and a heavy sea 
during the remainder of the voyage. On Tuesday night of the 



312 JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH 

following week we met another gale and were pretty roughly han- 
dled. The steamer was crowded with passengers, among whom 
were a number of New York families, and several from the South- 
ern States, returning to their devastated homes. May and Sade 
remained in their state rooms during most of the voyage. On 

some days there were but few at the table; Col. F -y, Mr. D. D. 

F d, of New York, Howie, and I, had seats together, and were 

at all the meals ; this was wonderful for me, as I had never been 
to sea before without being sick, Among the passengers were a 
Catholic bishop, a number of priests and sisters, about sixty, on 
their way to Texas. They had second-cabin tickets, but had access 
to all parts of the vessel. The cabin and dining-saloon arrangements 
of the ship were decidedly bad. The voyage was one of much 
anxiety ; we were in constant fear that the machinery would get 
out of order, which, with the prevailing westerly winds, would 
have forced us to return. But the Maker and Master of the seas 
was better to us than our fears ; as He had kept us during our 
wanderings by land, so He brought us safely across the ocean to 
our native shores. On the afternoon of the 21st November we 
arrived at New York, where, after the usual delay in getting 
baggage off and having it examined by the officer of customs, we 
left the steamer, right glad to get upon terra firma again. My 
brother Newton and Mr. K. procured a carriage and took charge 
of the baggage, and we then felt that our journey was ended. 

So ends the journal. Some of our friends when they have done 
reading it will perhaps close the book with this wish — " Oh ! that 
I, too, might make the same tour ; but 1 have no reason to expect 
that I shall ever be permitted to do so. My duties and circum- 
stances forbid the hope." To such I would say: Let not this 
journal occasion you any envy or discontent, for while reading it 
you must often have been reminded of the fact that travelling is 
attended not only with pleasure, but likewise with disappointments, 
hardships, and dangers, I am far from undervaluing the advan- 
tages of foreign travel. But these advantages may be exaggerated, 
more especially by young persons, who are too apt to imagine that 



GEEAT BRITAIN AKD ON THE CONTINENT. 313 

they would be happy if they could only pass their days in roam- 
ing over foreign lands ; whereas experience proves that Claudian 
was not much in error when he pronounced those blessed whose 
birth and life and death are all within a single parish. He who 
never went beyond the suburbs of his native city, may nevertheless 
be a traveller in the best sense of the word. He may explore 
every, part of that microcosm, the soul, and ascertain its moral 
orbit, as it moves forward in mystery towards eternity. Neither 
Augustine nor Halyburton was a great traveller in the ordinary 
sense of the term ; and yet did not both acquire by self-examination 
a thorough knowledge of their own hearts, and of human nature 
in general. " I have learned more," said a dying man on the 
scaffold, *' in one little dark corner of yonder tower than by all my 
travels in all the places I have seen." How much concerning the 
cross and every Christian's pilgrimage did John Bunyan learn 
during those twelve long years of his imprisonment in Bedford 
jail. Compare his knowledge of the soul and of its Savior with 
that of Baron Humboldt, a traveller, whose intimate acquaintance 
with almost every part of the terraqueous globe was perhaps only 
equalled by his profound ignorance of his own heart. He could 
discover and contemplate the most instructive objects in nature 
without any thoughts of their Maker ; and while journeying by 
night over the savannahs of Venezuela, his guides directed his 
attention to the constellation of " the Southern Cross ;" did the 
sight awake in him any Christian sentiments'? No, it only 
reminded him of * ' Paul and Virginia seated near the source of the 
river Lataniers, conversing together for the last time, and when 
the old man at the sight of the Southern Cross warns them that 
it is time to separate" ! When in old age he was high in office, 
and his breast covered with stars and crosses, he only went to 
church in pursuit of further honors and preferments. One day 
General Werther, a man of unaffected piety, met the aged Baron 
coming out of the Court Chapel at Berlin. The general smiled as 
he shook hands with his friend, saying, " I am glad to see the 

14 



314 JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 

philosopher at church." " You see," replied Humboldt, " I want 
to get on in the world." 

Much better and happier than such a man is he who, with the 
Bible for his only guide-book, searches his own heart and ways, 
finds the cross and walks in the paths of righteousness, humility, 
and godliness. Narrow may be his sphere, and low his position 
in this world ; but after this life he will no doubt be permitted to 
fly from star to star, and visit the most distant parts of immensity. 
His will then be the angelic happiness of ranging creation, not 
merely in quest of knowledge, but also, what is far better, on mis- 
sions of benevolence. 



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